/ 






ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY: 



ROMANCE OF MILITARY LIFE. 



BY 

IN ST. G. COOKE, 

COLONEL SECOND DRAGOONS, P. S. A. 



PIIILAPELPIIIA: 

LINDSAY & BLAKISTON, 

1 8 5 9. 



.C77 



Entered, according to Act of Congress in the year 1856 

BY LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Peuugylvania. 



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!i 



" I ADDRESS not, then, tlie sliallow or hurried world- 
ling ; but the friendly one, who, in the calm intervals 
from worldly cares, grants me the aid of a quiet and 
thoughtful, and, if it may be, a poetic mood." 



CONTENTS. 



PART I. 

CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

A Journey Westward in 182Y — A Merry Company — Kentucky 
Horse-race — Scenes on the Ohio — Arrival at Jefferson Bar- 
racks, 13 

CHAPTER II. 

St. Louis in 1827 — Scenes at Mess — Anecdotes — A Large and 
Lively Garrison — Military Balls, • . . . . .16 

CHAPTER II L 

Departure np the Mississippi — Open Boats and Storms — Scenery 
— Rock Island — Prairie du Chien, . . . . .22 

CHAPTER IV. 

Scenery of the Upper Mississippi — On a Bluff by Moonlight — 
Night Sail, and Prairies on Fire — Lake Pepin — Arrive at Fort 
Snelling, 28 

CHAPTER V. 

Falls of St. Anthony — Departure — Night Scene with Indians — 
Fall Overboard — Lady in an Open Boat — Galena in 1828 — 
Breakfast on Gin — A Gambling Scene — Arrive at St. Louis, . 32 

CHAPTER VL 

Jefferson Barracks in 1828 — Further West — Fort Leavenworth — 
March on Santa Fe Road — Prairie Scenery — Buffalo Hunting, 39 



VI CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

PAGE 

Caravan Attacked — Night March, "Wild Scenery — A Desert and 
a Sirocco — Return to Chouteau Island — Man Killed — Dreadful 
March — Camp Attacked by 500 Camanches — Night Alarm, . 46 

CHAPTERVIII. 

Life in the Wilderness-^ — Another Indian Fight — Funeral and 
Wild Storm — Prairie Animals — Adventure with Wolves, . 55 

CHAPTER IX. 

Prairie Evening Amusements — Indian Love-story related — Sha- 
wah-now — (Indian Battle, Flight, and Massacre), . . .62 

CHAPTER X. 

Another Indian Romance — Mah-za-pa-mee, . . . 75 

CHAPTER XL 

Adventures, and Nan-ow Escape of an Expressman — His Com- 
rade Killed — Return of Caravan — Escort of Mexican Troops 
and Indians — Attacked by Arapahoes — Indian Dance and 
Night Scenes, 82 

CHAPTER XI L 

Part with Mexicans — March for Home — Multitudes of Buffalo 
— Prairie Afire — Arrive at Fort Leavenworth, . . .89 

CHAPTER XII L 

Beautiful Scenery — Amusements at Fort Leavenworth — Trip up 
the Missouri — Dangerous Flood by Night — Fine Country, 
Hunting, 93 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Prairie Musings — Platte River — Deserted Indian Town, by Night 
— Indian Houses Described — Dangerous Crossing of the Platte 
— Ruins of Fort Atkinson, Council Bluffs — Canoe Voyage 
down the Missouri— Deer Chase in the River, . . .100 



CONTENTS. Vll 



CHAPTER XV. 

FAQS 

One Hundred Pawnees at Fort Leavenworth — Characteristic 
Dances — Sketch of I-e-tan, Otto Chief — His Romantic Life, 
and Tragic Death, . . . . . . . .109 

CHAPTER XV L 

The Indian Character and Customs — Medical System — Supersti- 
tions and Ceremonies — Tradition of Migration and Divisions 
of Winnebagoes — Agricultural and Hunting System, . .115 

CHAPTER XVI L 

Contains no ''Romance" — A Plea for the Indians — Incapable of 
Christian Religion — How First to Commence their Civilization 
— Plan for their Management, . . . . . .122 

CHAPTER XVII L 

Sketch of Black Bird, a Celebrated Chief — Power acquired by 
Using Arsenic — War Chief and Prophet — His Extreme Des- 
potism — Contest with a Rival — Death and Romantic Burial, . 130 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Sketch of Hugh Glass, a Missouri River Hunter — Their Manner 
of Life — Trapping the Beaver — Combat with a Grizzly Bear 
— Desperately Wounded and Abandoned — Crawls Forty Days, 135 

CHAPTER XX. 

Glass's Recovery — Escape in a Surprise and Massacre — Deadly 
Combat with an Indian — Rejoins His Old Party — His Revenge, 142 

CHAPTER XXL 

A Solitary Walk — Afternoon Repose of Beautiful Nature — A Day- 
dream of the Ancient Indians — Orders for Another Frontier, 152 

CHAPTER XXI L 

Black Hawk War — Brought on by the Militia — Embark for St. 
Louis and Illinois River — Join Head Quarters — Old Friends — 
Volunteers Organizing — Queer Scenes — March for Rock 



via CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

River — False Alarm, and Rations thrown Away — Unaccount- 
able Panic at Night — Army Marches North, .... 156 

CHAPTER XXII I. 

General Stampede of Horses at Night — Camping in Wet Wea- 
ther — Battle of " Wisconsin Heights" — Scenery of Wisconsin 
River — Trail Found — Ridiculous Incidents, . . . .168 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

March in a Dense and Dark Forest — Painful Responsibility of 
Commanders — Sufferings of Indian Retreat — Forced March — 
A Dead Warrior in His Paint, 174 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Battle of Bad Axe — Descriptions of Battles — ^Report of this 
Battle — Steamer Arrives, Firing Grape Shot — Indians Shot 
from 'Trees like Squirrels, 180 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Sac Band Broken Up — A Dandy on the Battle Ground — Em- 
bark for Prairie du Chien — Indian Hags — Cholera in General 
Scott's Army — Night Adventure, 187 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

General Scott's Division Arrives at Rock Island — Brings the 
Cholera — Indian Fighters most Afraid — Recklessness — Black 
Hawk a Prisoner — Winter at Jefferson Barracks, . . .192 

CHAPTER XXVII I. 

Recruiting for Dragoons in West Tennessee — Adventures There — 
A Baptist Sermon, and Life at Perryville — Electioneering and 
Horse-swapping — Jackson, Tennessee — David Crockett — 
Nashville, 197 



CHAPTER XXIX. ' 

New Regiment at Jefferson Barracks — Cavalry Ill-appreciated — 
Causes — Instances of Great Cavalry Success — Its Services in 
Our Old Wars— The Indian " Long Knives," . . .204 



CONTENTS. IX 



CHAPTER XXX. 

PAGE 

Winter March to Fort Gibson — Value and Cost of Militia Sys- 
tem — Changed Character of Western Frontier — March with- 
out an Object — Indian Fear of Regular Troops, . . . 215 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

Hot March on a Desert — Great Mortality — Reach Toweash Vil- 
lage — Exchange of Prisoners — Regiment Returns to Fort Gib- 
son, and Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, . . . .225 



PART II. 

CHAPTER I. 

On the " Gi'and Prairie'' — Book-making — A Botanical Walk — 
Dialogue — Indian Anecdote, . . . . . .228 



CHAPTER II. 

Dialogue on Books and Authors — Discovery of New Mexico — 
Council Grove — Splendid Sunset — Gold Mines — Wet March — 
Thoughts on the Murder of Chavis, 2.SG 



CHAPTER III. 

Another Squadron Joins — Dialogue on Newspapers and Books — 
An Alarm — News — Pawnee Rock — Buffalo Charge the Camp, 250 

CHAPTER IV. 

Indians About — Jackson Grove — A Buffalo that could not be 
Killed — Dialogue on Indian Tactics — Where shall the Winter 
be Passed? — Wolf Howling, Music and Romance — Meet 
Mexican Escort, 261 

CHAPTER V. 

Return March — Splendid Elk Chase — Dialogue and Soliloquy — 
Buffalo Chase — Criticism of J. P. R. James — Prairie on Fire 
— Snow Storm — Fort Leavenworth, . . . . .272 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 



March for the Rocky Mountains — Emigrants — Pretty Scenery — 
Dialogue — A Prairie Marriage — The Little Blue — A Hurri- 
cane — Pawnees — Attacked by a Dog — Splendid Sunrise on 
the Platte, 282 

CHAPTER VI L 

The Platte — A Phenomenon — Thoughts on Cortez, and Con- 
quest of Mexico — A Picturesque Funeral — Beautiful Camp- 
ing Scene — Bad Grass — Buffalo, and the Chase — Scene at 
Crossing of the Platte — Dialogue — Day-dreams — And a Real 
Dream in Ash Hollow, . 293 

CHAPTER VIII. 

A Ridiculous Buffelo Chase — A Narrow Escape — Creole "En- 
gages" — Dialogue on Poetry, Astronomy, and Natural Philo- 
sophy, 309 



CHAPTER IX. 

Wonderful Mirage, and Beautiful Scenery — A Sioux Village — 
Dialogue, Women Compared with Men — Poetry and Romance 
Favorable to Women — Verses, 318 



CHAPTER X. 

Scott's BlufF, Romantic Scenery — The Prairie Animals — Motives 
of Emigration — Dialogue, and Night Thoughts, . . . 328 



CHAPTER XL 

Fort Laramie — Mongrel Population — The Sioux in Council — 
March for the Mountains — A Lost Squaw and Children — Man 
Shot— Night Scene, 335 



CHAPTER XI L 

Grizzly Bear Chase — Volcanic Desert and Epsom Salt — BufiFalo 
Chase There — Independence Rock, and Sweet Water — Devil's 
Gate, Sublime Scene — Chamois, or " Big-horn" Chase — First 
View of Snow Peaks, ........ 344 



CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PAGE 

Halt in a Beautiful Valley— Dialogue on The Beautiful— Tyranny 
of Society and Fashion— Golden Sands, Palseontology — One 
View of Niagara Falls, 353 



CHAPTER XIV. 

South Pass, Camp in Oregon— The Spring of the Sweet Water 
— Moonlight Soliloquy on a Mountain Peak, . . . 362 

CHAPTER XV. 

Homeward Bound— Poor Lands of Oregon— Prairie Pet Ani- 
„i:ils_Fuurth of July Thoughts, Independence, Liberty, and 
Eciuality — What Nations have them— Indian Romance, and 
American Literature, ^"-^ 



CHAPTER XVL 

Farewell. to Sweet Water— The Emigrants— Magnificent Scenery 
First Seen by Whites— A Romantic Night Watch, Dialogue- 
Episode of the Florida War, 373 

CHAPTER XVIL 

Was it a Dream ? Watcher's Soliloquy— Singular Disease, For- 
tunately no Physician— Cub, a Tragedy in Three Acts— Great 
Fire and Escape— First March Southward— Evening Medita- 
tion, "^^^ 



CHAPTER XVI IL 

Romantic Cheyenne Village — Adventures There — Our Few 
Wants Unsujpplied in the Wilderness — March Without Water 
— Lost Squaw Restored to her Friends — Long's Peak — Arrive 
at South Platte, -^^^ 



CHAPTER XIX. 

A " New Style" — Dialogue — Lost Hunters Return — Mount Pike 
— A Charming Mountain Valley — Night Scenes and Adven- 
tures — Storm in the Mountains, 404 



XU CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XX. 

PAGE 

The Storm Discussed — Daily Showers in the ]\Iountains, some- 
times Snow — The Arkansas, Bent's Fort — Mexicans, Donkeys, 
Indians — A Medicine Lodge — Indian Customs, . . . 412 



CHAPTER XXL 

Our Daily Labors — Reverie — Botany — Languajje of Flowers — 
Last Buffalo Chase — Hard and Hot March — Reach Home, . 421 



SCENES AND ADVENTURES 
IN THE ARMY, 



PART I. 

CHAPTER I. 

My furlough was past ! What varied emotions did that 
reflection excite ! Strong were the regrets at parting 
for an indefinite period from devoted rehitions ; and the 
young heart yearning with romantic hope, might well 
shudder on the threshold of the real life. 

The stage-coach was at the door. 

Those sorrowful partings over, with happy elasticity, I 
was soon enjoying the rapid motion of the coach — always 
exhilarating — but then severing me from the safe haven 
of home affections, and hearts which trembled painfully 
as I was thus launched on life's perilous voyage. 

For at careless eighteen, impressions are fleeting ; and 
the world, aye, the western world, was all before me, and 
bright with the anticipations of novelty and enjoyment : 
and the freshness and adventure of travel, were to be 
shared by the warm friends of my academical youth. 

With a number of these, who, like myself, obeying the 
calls of duty and inclination, were to make a long jour- 
ney westward, I had planned a meeting at a village in 

2 



II SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Maryland. And never was appointment better kept, 
than bj my before widely-separated comrades ; and eager 
and warm were the greetings of that midnight hour ! 
But we were hurried, by an unsympathizing driver, to 
resume, together, our night-ride ; we had the coach, fortu- 
nately, all to ourselves ; but right soon, in darkness, came 
the reaction of our exuberant spirits, and we began to 
drop oif into wonderfully confused and uneasy postures, 
and the sleep of careless youth. 

And thus we journeyed on ; joking and joyous by day, 
— at night, snarling from unceremonious slumbers. 

At Wheeling we made a halt for some days : we had 
been jolted and jumbled enough for lovers of variety, and 
" Za helle riviere' tempted us to embark our fortunes, or 
rather persons, on its shining currents ; but, in truth, its 
beauties were too superficial ; and we were assured that 
the lightest bark would make but a tedious progress 
through its deceitful shallows. So we were fain content, 
with our ranks further swelled to a most lively number, 
again to take stage, and thus pursue our journey to Cin- 
cinnati. I remember the numberless black squirrels 
which we saw the first morning, sharing the rich fruits of 
those many corn-crowned hills ; and the number which we 
found in a tree in front of our breakfasting house ; and 
how, after being routed out of its topmost branches, the 
poor fellows were forced to make beautiful leaps to the 
ground. 

From Cincinnati we went by steamboat to Louisville. 
There we mustered twenty strong ; and remained eight 
rainy days, waiting for the river to rise. Our time passed 
pleasantly enough in that hospitable city, which would 
seem to be a favorite with the army, for many of its 
officers have formed the tenderest of ties there. During 



INTHEARMY. 15 

our stay, we shared in the most popular sport of the sport- 
ioving Kentuckians, — a horse race. The course is several 
miles from the city ; but we were all there, and beheld 
seven long-legged colts contend for the prize ; and that 
Kentucky spicing to such pleasures — a fight or two — was 
not wanting to complete the day's experience. 

In due time the river did rise, and we embarked for 
Jefferson Barracks, the new "School of Instruction." 
The boat seemed to be chartered by the military; we 
filled the cabin, and the deck was monopolized by a de- 
tachment of recruits. The passage was a long, but 
merry one ; and that cards were played, I am too faithful 
a historian to deny. 

Many years have elapsed, but I have now before my 
eyes the vivid impression of a night-scene near the mouth 
of the Ohio. The moon was a graceful crescent, and the 
glassy waters, glittering with its beams, reflected, too, 
many a lovely star, and caught the soft azure of their 
airy depths ; and this beautiful reflection of a bright and 
starry sky, seemed to tremble at the mysterious and 
thorough gloom of the primeval forests. And another 
boat passed by, with its brilliant lights, magical motion, 
and solemn, echoed sounds ; its bright path, too, and its 
long succession of regular and polished waves, each a 
mirror for the lovely moon. There is something start- 
ling, if not awful, by night, in those hollow but sonorous 
echoes to the escape pipe, which the lofty forests of the 
western river-bottoms give out ; they seem the angry bel- 
lowings of wood demons, aroused by this intrusion of 
man and his wondrous works. 

Hight well do I remember, too, a scene different as 
possible, though by night : a western storm upon the 
waters ! The boat was, fortunately, moored under the 



16 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

verge of one of those immense Mississippi bottoms, — in 
itself, by night, awful as the wastes of ocean. The rain 
fell as if nature was dissolved : the caverns of earth are 
never dai-ker than it was then ; the roar of waters and 
darkness were the universe. I was alone, and enjoying 
its sublimity, forgot that my poor body was exposed to 
the tempest. 

The boat touched at dawn of the eighth day at Jefferson 
Barracks. Those who had slept at all, had risen ; an 
adjutant, mounted on an immense black horse, and having 
for suite, a whole troop of dogs, received us on the bank, 
and proceeded with us to report to his chief, Colonel L. 
We were exhilarated in our walk over that delightful spot 
by three bands, striking up from different hill-tops and 
groves, the familiar, beautiful, but never so charming 
reveille. The Colonel, evidently just out of bed, received 
us with great kindness and frankness ; and readily con- 
sented to our proceeding in the boat to St. Louis ; and in 
a few hours we were all on shore, exploring the terra in- 
cognita of that rising city of the West. 



CHAPTER II. 

The characteristics of St. Louis, in 1827, which first 
struck me, were the muddiness of the streets — the bad- 
ness of the hotels — the numbers of the Creole-French, 
speaking the French language — working on the Sabbath 
— a floating population of trappers, traders, boatmen, and 
Indians — and finally, an absence of paper currency. 
These were all very distinctive ; and in truth, St. Louis 



IN THE ARMY. 17 

had very little of the Anglo-American character. Rowdy- 
ism was the order of the day — the predominating influence 
of the street population of Indian traders and other 
northwestern adventurers. These men, in outi'e dresses, 
and well armed, were as characteristic in their deportment 
as sailors ; exhibiting the independence, confidence, and 
recklessness of their wild and lawless way of life. All 
this was food for my companions on the qui vive for 
novelty ; they were to be seen in all directions, on voyages 
of discovery through the mud, and seemed suddenly to 
have become a very homogeneous element in this rare 
compound : and parties of officers from the barracks 
daily galloped into the town, which they enlivened in a 
sort of sailor-like style. Fun and frolic then prevailed 
in St. Louis. 

But our duties at the barracks did not permit us to 
remain long in this attractive city ; so after a punctual 
call upon a certain army official, who cures that most 
distressing of human afflictions, a consumptive purse, and 
after receiving a quantum of hard dollars (not sufficient 
to produce a plethora), we bade adieu to the lively town 
until — the next time. Some of the party, like children 
pleased with a new toy, had already purchased Indian 
ponies, upon which they shuffled oft', after a most un- 
military fashion, to their post. 

None of the actors in those scenes can fail to recur 
with some pleasure, to the gayeties of 1827-8 at Jeffer- 
son Barracks. One of the regiments was in cantonment 
on the south side of the first hill ; a quarter of a mile 
farther on, another, the 6th infantry, was encamped ; on 
the crest of the next hill, were extensive stone barracks 
in progress ; and still lower down, on its southern de- 
clivity, were encamped the 1st infantry ; some staff and 



18 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

other officers, with their families, were in huts in various 
detached situations. Two of the regiments had, a few 
months before, arrived from a remote outpost. There, 
cut off from the world, and dependent on their own re- 
sources, the officers had not failed to make themselves 
what amends they might, and to cultivate the most 
friendly intimacies, on which were founded a thousand 
practical jokes and endless adventures ; and the pleasures 
and incidents of this, a kind of golden age, they had in 
truth, the least disposition in the world to consign to 
oblivion. 

A day or two after joining, I, with several friends, 
dined at the regimental mess of the 6th. It then was a 
mess indeed — in numbers and in spirit, a delightful mess, 
such as few regiments now have. Noble spirits ! brave 
friends ! How devoted, how social were you then ! How 
modest, yet how ardent, was your esprit de corps ! where- 
ever active service was to be done, on the borders of 
Mexico, or in the far North, you were there ! And have 
you not led the "moving battery" to victory, and poured 
out your life-blood, like water, in Florida? You are 
scattered and gone, but well I "remember the regiment 
to which you belonged." 

But the past and the present must be kept distinct. I 
thought them a glorious set at that first dinner. The 

president was Capt. , with his splendid whiskers and 

mustaches, dignified and easy in his manners, he seemed 
a type of the old school ; and from that, the inference 
may be drawn, that he took wine freely when in such 
happy company ; to the life of Avhich, indeed, he gave a 
constant impulse. And the caterer was Adjutant J., a 
noble fellow, whose looks alone could make a friend; and 
R delighted us with his endless sallies, his jokes and 



INTHEARMY. 19 

merriment. I have now before me his immense whiskers, 
and his twinkling, deep-set eyes, lost nearly in incessant 
laughter — and his dance, too, upon the dinner-table, 
which was the finale. 

Capt. , soon after became in low health, and being 

of impatient temper, his spirits sunk under it. His life 
was in danger ; and as a last resort. Surgeon G. pre- 
scribed a singular mode of treatment — a novel kind of 

exciteinent — which was intrusted to Lieut. R . He 

paraded daily around the Captain's tent with a long face, 
whistling the dead march; and it so happened that, being 
first on the list, the Captain's death would cause his pro- 
motion. But Capt. , taking this view of it, very 

seriously waxed wrathful, and swore he would not die for 
his tormentor's sake ; and the cure was made. 

What would thirty young officers be at ? Not much 
time was consumed in considering such a question ; in all 
intervals of duty we gladly resigned ourselves to the in- 
fluences of chance or impulse, and sufficient to the day 
were the pleasures thereof; none thought of the morrow; 
to the many all was new, even the service itself — a new 
country and manners, and there were some new Beauties. 
Daily, numbers of us would be surprised by the dinner- 
drum at the camp of the hospitable 6th or 1st, and then 
it was useless to attempt an excuse ; go you must to the 
mess. Many and delightful were those dinners at mess ! 
Right joyous was it to mingle with those officers, whose 
minds and manners had received a fresh mould from their 
life in the generous, the open-hearted,- daring and adven- 
turous — the frank and hospitable far West ; and what 
stores of anecdote and right marvellous adventure had 
been laid up in seven years' service at the famous Coun- 
cil Bluff's ! Wine flowed freely, our spirits overflowed. 



20 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

What other could be more delightful than this favored 
spot, with its gently-rolling hills crowned with lofty forest 
trees, without undergrowth, save grass and wild flowers ; 
and a river, the noblest in the world, running by ? Such 
is Jefferson Barracks. On a level space just upon the 
bank of the river, shaded and adorned by clumps of vene- 
rable but vigorous trees, oaks and sycamores, was the 
grand guard parade, generally enlivened by the music of 
a full band — a delightful resort ! Ay, and other attrac- 
tions were wont to fill the measure of its popularity; 
beauty added its spell to the charming scene ; the young 
and lovely came often there at an early hour of rosy 
morning, when nature is in her happiest mood. 

But how can garrison life be dwelt on? It cannot, 
unless, indeed, we descend to all those trifles that fill the 
precious hours and steal away the days. A soldier is all 
his country's ; his irregular though numerous duties 
divide his time, distract his attention, and defeat his 
plans. How difficult, then, to avoid the fate of becoming 
the mere soldier. A knowledge of the world, a graceful 
carriage, easy manners, general but superficial informa- 
tion, with lofty aspirations, bitter repinings, and habits 
of idleness — these are his inheritance ; the light and easy 
garment that he receives in exchange for the mantle of 
eminence. But why notv question the seal of fate? 

The middle of December found the 6th still in camp. 
Our log-fires in front of tents had become centres of at- 
traction ; but the smoke was a great enemy to our com- 
fort. It was amusing to observe a gathering round a 
fire ; the little circle seated on stools, boxes, or logs ; 
8ome one was continually attacked, and would run for his 
breath, and forming his circuit, his enemy, less quick, 
though airy, seeming to follow at first, would leave him 



IN THE ARMY. 21 

for another, who, in his turn, uttering broken maledic- 
tions, would make his circular retreat, seeking another or 
the same seat, ere long again to be routed. 

The sporting tribe might be seen here and there exa- 
mining a horse, or physicking a dog, or restraining 
vociferously the vagaries of a whole pack of them. A 

few sly ones would find their way to old Capt. 's tent, 

which had a brick chimney, together with the luxury of 
a mantel-piece ; and this mantel-piece had notoriously a 
remarkable capacity for holding sugar dishes, whole 
battalions of mint phials, not to omit a great julep pitcher, 
Avhich was commonly well filled. Oh camps ! with your 
exposures and privations, how you encourage and excuse 
the solid comfort of a julep ! 

Before Christmas, the 6th were in the stone barracks, 
half finished and uncomfortable, and were crowded several 
in a room ; and it was our lot, after turning into bunk, in 
the " small hours" of the night, to be saluted at day-dawn 
with the din of hammers overhead, an occasional shower 
of dust and mortar, with a sprinkling of brickbats, which 
fairly bade us, at the peril of our heads, "sleep no more." 

On new-year's morn many were they who found them- 
selves at that log temple of hospitality, the mess-house of 
the 1st, and paid their devoirs to a half whiskey barrel 
in the middle of an immense table, foaming to the top 
Avith egg-nog. The 6th regiment that day entertained 
all at the post at a dinner, and midnight found us still at 
the table. 

On the 8th of January, the 1st gave a splendid ball in 
an unfinished barrack ; a noble display of flags was above 
and around us, with hundreds of bright muskets with a 
candle in the muzzle of each. Many from St. Louis were 



22 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

there ; and Louisville, too, had several beautiful repre- 
sentatives. 

Thus flew by six months on the wings of pleasure. 
But the time came when the 1st and 6th, long associated 
as a band of brothers, were to part ; the former being 
ordered to the Upper Mississippi. Their furniture being 
packed up, the whole of them for several days messed 
with the 6th. Our last dinner I shall never forget ; we 
sought to drown the bitter regrets of parting in the ex- 
travagant enjoyment of the last fleeting minutes. At the 
winding up, Capt. G. delivered from a table, in an Indian 
language, a characteristic farewell speech, which, as inter- 
preted, began — " Our great Father has long smiled upon 
our fellowship ; his councils now are bad, a cloud is before 
his face," &c. 

The summer came, and was passed pleasantly enough. 
At its close I was well pleased to be ordered on my first 
active service. 



CHAPTER III. 

On the 27th of September, 1828, I left Jefierson 
Barracks, to conduct a detachment of about forty recruits 
to Fort Crawford, at Prairie du Chien. There was no 
officer with me. I embarked in two " Mackinaw" boats, 
as they are called ; they are of about three tons burden, 
without deck or box, sharp fore and aft. Mine were old 
and leaky. I found it tedious and laborious for eight 
oarsmen to force them against the current in many parts 
of the Mississippi ; and, according to the custom of the 
country, took advantage of bare sand-bars and open banks 



IN THE ARMY. 23 

to use the " cordel ;" that is, to send ashore ten or fifteen 
men to tow the boat hj means of a long rope attached to 
the head of a small mast. In doubling the points of bars, 
and in other shallow places, these men would wade along 
with the cordel on their shoulders, sometimes for a mile, 
perhaps half-leg deep; it was "working a passage" with 
a vengeance at that season. I made my first camp on 
Bloody Island, near St. Louis. While I was in the city 
next morning, getting a barrel or two of hard bread, my 
sergeant, who was an old hand of the 6th, made, with no 
other tool than an axe, a very good rudder, from a stand- 
ing tree. 

The morning after, I passed the mouth of the Missouri. 
This river, after draining the valleys of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, and receiving tributaries throughout a course of 
three thousand miles, precipitates its turbid currents right 
across the placid bosom of the Mississippi, to which, 
losing its name, it imparts its character. 

A few miles above the junction is the mouth of the 
Illinois, itself a great river, navigable for steamboats 
some four hundred miles ; but little known to fame, 
eclipsed, as it were, by the grandeur of the West. I 
encamped at Portage de Sioux ; it was a moonlit night; on 
the opposite verge of a noble sheet of water — the river, 
placid and calm, but giving to the ear the solemn, distant 
music of its currents — stood lofty and fantastical rocks, 
of the height and a little resembling the Palisades of the 
Hudson ; but these were cavernous, and there were arches, 
pilasters, and isolated turrets. They appeared the ruins 
of a castellated city ; the soft light of the moon helping 
out the imagination, with a most perfect clear-obscure. 

Some dozen miles below Clarksville, in company with 
my sergeant, I went on shore, as I frequently had done. 



24 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

to hunt. We had moved leisurely along an hour or two, 
when we began to find ourselves a little out of our bear- 
ings, or rather had become entangled with the sloughs of 
the river ; after much fatigue we found ourselves in the 
edge of an immense level prairie bottom, where the grass 
was seven or eight feet high. A high bluff rose beyond, 
and I confess that, left to myself, I should have made for 
it, firmly believing that it was the opposite bank of the 
river ; but my companion, an excellent woodsman, knew 
better, and saved me a seven or eight miles' trudge through 
this prairie sea. But the best he could do was to strike the 
main river at night ; opposite, as it happened, to Clarks- 
ville. We crossed in a crazy canoe ; and I found the 
boats had not passed or arrived ! What a predicament 
for a young commander ! I was much annoyed, but 
made out to take a good night's rest in bed, with philo- 
sophical resignation. 

My men arrived next morning, to my joy and sur- 
prise, with nothing amiss, save numerous red eyes, and a 
broken demijohn, which it was plain had been well hugged 
before being subjected to such ill-treatment. 

Some fifty miles below the Des Moines rapids, when 
weary of our slow progress, and with our store of pork 
very low, it was reported to me early one morning that 
some of the men were in pursuit of wild hogs. They 
soon after brought in two immensely large black ones, 
which they assured me were selected as the smallest of 
the herd, which had rushed at the men and forced them 
to take refuge in trees. A settler or hunter of the 
vicinity had joined in the sport. They were a season- 
able supply, and were forthwith skinned and salted. 
While thus employed, a steamboat hove in sight below. 
On its arrival I had my boats taken in tow. My recruits 



IN THE ARMY. 25 

soon gave me a spice of their quality ; thej were enlisted 
at Natchez, and were as precious a set of scoundrels as 
were perhaps ever there collected ; they were drunken 
and mutinous from this time until after we quit the 
steamer at the rapids. One of them, whom I had tied 
up with a half-inch rope, repeatedly gnawed himself 
loose ! 

At the foot of these rapids was a passenger harge in 
tow of a steam keel-boat, with about twenty passengers, 
who had already waited some two weeks with Turkish 
resignation, for fate, or higher water, to forward them on 
their journey. Genius of railroads ! spirit of a travelling 
age ! Think, ye eastern locomotive bipeds, who, spirited 
over the earth at the rate of 600 miles a day, snarl at 
the grievous detention of a minute — think of this, and 
learn moderation. These said travellers spent their 
nights, I discovered, playing at cards ; how they got 
through with their days passes my comprehension. 

On the rocks of these rapids I abandoned one of my 
boats, having a second time overhauled and attempted to 
caulk it. I left it bottom upwards, giving it at parting, 
out of pure malice, several gashes with an axe. It was 
soon afterwards seized by a wrecker as a lawful prize, 
sold for five dollars, and again for ten ; and the last pur- 
chaser, by sawing it in two and planking up the stern, 
had a very good make-shift craft for down stream work. 

I had now to leave a party on shore, with orders to 
march as much in sight of my boat as they could. Night 
came on, and nothing was to be heard or seen of the 
detachment. Until 10 o'clock we kept on, firing signals, 
but to no purpose. We encamped on a miserable island; 
and in the middle of the next day we found them at a 
hut near the shore. All this was occasioned by the im- 

3 



26 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

mense number of islands ; the main shore had not been 
visible for thirty miles on either side. 

I was now about three weeks out, and this point was 
fifty miles below Fort Armstrong, at Rock Island. Our 
provisions were exhausted ; nothing but a few potatoes 
could be had at the house. I heard that there was a 
trail to Fort Armstrong, which cut off much of the dis- 
tance ; so I immediately ordered my adventurous land 
detachment to take it, while ray naval affairs went on as 
usual, save " that our faces had become longer, and our 
belts contracted." My rifle was sole commissary, and a 
deer and a few birds were all it supplied. We reached 
the vicinity of Rock Island next mid-day, in a heavy 
gale. I had previously ripped a wall-tent, and converted 
it into a sail. It was exceedingly cold, the wind almost 
ahead, and the waves very high ; but I did not feel like 
standing on trifles, under the circumstances, and so near 
to port. A flaw struck and would have swamped us, but 
for the frailness of our tackle ; in an instant a great hole 
was blown through the sail, then every rope snapped, and 
the old tent stood straight out from the mast-head. My 
men from numbness, fear, or ignorance, gave me no as- 
sistance, so that necessity suddenly made me a tolerable 
fresh-water sailor. All arrived safe ; but my land party 
spent another night out, as the ferrymen at the fort were 
afraid, or so pretended, to bring them across to the island, 
although they had such a boat as mine. 

The next day but one, having taken in supplies, and 
been treated with true hospitality by the officers, I pro- 
ceeded on my voyage. 

About this point in ascending is observed a change in 
the river scenery; the solemn and drear "bottoms," and 
the falling in banks of the lower Mississippi, are scarce 



IN THE ARMY. 27 

observable above the mouth of the Missouri, where the 
river assumes very much the appearances of the Ohio. 
At this point again (marked by the passage of a great 
rocky chain, developed in dangerous rapids, and in this, 
the first, rocky island above the Gulf — and a beautiful 
one it is) the shore scenery becomes, like that of many 
smaller clear streams, variegated with rock and hill, 
pretty valleys, grassy slopes, and gravel beaches. 

I arrived at Fort Crawford, 180 miles above Rock 
Island, and about 600 above St. Louis, on the 23d of 
October, and hanng marched my party into the fort, 
" Where is your order?" quoth the ofEcer in command. 

" In my trunk, sir." 

" Get your orders, sir, and I will then receive your 
party," was his answer. 

After this was complied with, no point of ceremony 
was wanting ; but I was ordered to proceed with the de- 
tachment to Fort Snelling. My orders had been to return 
from this point "forthwith;" a steamboat was in "port," 
a rare chance, and the gaieties and other attractions of 
my post, and St. Louis, arose on my youthful imagination, 
only to embitter my real prospect of winter quarters in 
the frozen region of the St. Peter's ; but, 

" I am a soldier, and my craft demands, 
That whereso duty calls, within earth's 
Compass * * * I do forthwith obey."' 



SCENES AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER IV. 

The commander of Fort Crawford fitted me out libe- 
rally ; gave me two more boats, one of which had been 
made as comfortable as possible for a lady ; and luckily 
there were ten disciplined soldiers to go up. To crown 
all, I was intrusted with a monthly mail-bag, tied up, the 
papers and periodicals of which I was recommended to 
read. I dare say I felt, the first day, as pleased and 
comfortable as a new-made commodore. 

The scenery grows still more interesting as we ascend 
beyond the mouth of the Wisconsin ; the bluffs, or small 
mountains, always rising from the water on one side or 
the other, assume a thousand picturesque shapes ; some 
are clothed with forests, others with grass — are now 
rocky, and again are perfectly smooth. Perfect cones 
are to be seen, and then two such, connected by grassy 
plains. Frequently the interior structure of rock is ex- 
posed by the action of rains, and art could scarcely 
fashion more regular walls than you see ; at places they 
are vertical and lofty; again, they recede in steps, like 
the terrace-walls of a falling garden. 

It seemed that all the millions of migrating water-fowls 
passed me in review ; they appeared to follow the course 
of the river, and I ascertained, I thought, that they 
stopped regularly at nightfall. How many posts of re- 
freshment a squadron of them would make from the 
Lake of the Woods to the Balize, was not so easily 
settled ; but our repose was frequently disturbed by the 
deafening clatter of their myriads, that happened to 
anchor for the night in some neighboring bay. 



IN THE ARMY. 29 

I encamped one evening in a narrow but lovely valley 
between a towering massive bluff, covered with oaks, and 
a lofty prairie hill. After night, I walked to its grassy 
top ; the moon was just full, and a long path of smooth 
water glittered with its reflected light. Very far, on 
either hand, the river was seen amidst the hills, which 
it reflected like a polished mirror. The little valley, 
softened by the mellow light, wound its graceful curves, 
until lost to the eye in the dim primeval wastes. My 
camp was out of sight and forgotten ; and after a long 
view, full of admiration, a sense of utter loneliness crept 
over me, and added to the excitement of many rushing 
thoughts. I felt as a wandering being, cast upon a new 
world, that beheld from its summits lifeless but strange 
beauty. A light air rustling, made me aware how awful 
a silence had reigned, thus gently stirred as by a spirit 
voice, uneasy at the first intrusion of a mortal. I could 
hear the beating of my heart ; the spell which bound me 
became painful, and I ran at speed along the narrow 
summit ; I stopped, and would have uttered a cry, but in 
very truth my voice refused to obey me ; at last it came 
forth, but so unnatural and shrill that it seemed a 
mockery. I rushed down from this hill, where white man 
had never trod before, and was soon in the midst of those 
beings plainly insensible to the stamp of quiet beauty on 
all around — the rugged pioneers in these new regions of 
a race who would willingly mar it all, and plant here, too, 
the seeds of care, of strife, and of misery. 

Nature, like the character of man, is full of contrasts ; 
the elements are often stilled, as here, in the calm repose 
of beauty, to soothe and soften our earthly passions ; and 
anon are stirred up to fearful conflict, and seeming to 



30 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

threaten the world with wreck, inspire man with the 
dignity of strong emotion and lofty thought. 

The next evening I was tempted by a favorable wind 
to ease the labor of much rowing, and sail long after 
night. As I advanced, I found the prairies of all the 
surrounding country to be on fire. It was a dark and 
cloudy night ; the winds at length blew boisterously — the 
world seemed on fire, and there was a lurid reflection of 
flames from water and cloud, and tossed columns of 
smoke : it was awful. We sailed on in spell-bound 
silence, we scarce knew whither ; the other boats of my 
little fleet, now seen and now disappearing, like phantoms 
in the horrible obscurity. How many objects of sub- 
limity ! the storm contending with the waters, and dark- 
ness with the dreary light of a general conflagration ! 

At one point we saw a long mountain bluff", which was 
partially separated from a lofty prairie hill, shaped like a 
sugar loaf, by a narrow and precipitous ravine. The 
bluffs had been charred black as a coal, but so lately that 
spots of fire still shone, brighter and scarce larger than 
stars ; the ravine, its steep sides densely timbered, was 
like a blazing furnace ; the grass of the conical hill 
adjoining was just on fire, and the flames ascended in 
graceful spiral curves to the top ! 

This is an accurate description of the most singular 
contrasts and beautiful sight I ever beheld. I had never 
imagined mountains in masquerade ; but here was one by 
which NIGHT was accurately typified. 

It came on to rain very hard ; it was midnight, and 
utterly dark. I steered, I knew not whither, but to touch 
land. We did not strike the shore, but an island ; it was 
covered with rushes, those vegetable files, which I can 
hardly think of without having my teeth set on edge. 



INTDEARMY. 31 

My recruits spent some hours in kindling a fire ; but, 
"wrapt in my cloak, I resigned myself to sleep in the 
bottom of a boat. 

We lay a day, wind-bound, at the foot of Lake Pepin. 
This is an enlargement of the river, about twenty-seven 
miles long, and from two to four broad ; it is very deep, 
and is bounded by mountains and rocky shores ; it is 
subject to high winds ; and lofty waves and sunken rocks 
render it dangerous. While staying here, I witnessed 
(and was exposed to some danger from) the burning of a 
"prairie bottom," the grass of which was very tall and 
luxuriant. I have read a description (I believe in " The 
Prairie") which is very accurate, of its wonderful rapidity 
— the flame leaping forward with almost the wind's 
velocity, the stems of great weeds exploding like pistol 
shots. Only under these circumstances, very rarely upon 
the rolling prairies, are these fires dangerous. 

The wind lulled at sunset, and the lake being notorious 
for boisterous weather, I determined to row through in 
the night. So, hoisting a light in ray boat, in which I 
had a Creole pilot, we took our departure. A long and 
dreary night it was, and very cold ; the water froze upon 
the oars. We arrived in the river above soon after 
sunrise, landed and took breakfast. 

When my men flagged, and the progress was slow and 
weary, it was my custom, on this voyage, to make long 
races, ofiering for prize an extra gill of whiskey to the 
crew of the successful boat. To judge from their extra- 
ordinary exertions, a greater prize could not have been 
ofi'ered ; it was a double stimulant. 

On the 2d of November I arrived, all well, at Fort 
Snellinff. 



32 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER V. 

At Fort Snelling I found old friends and officers with 
•whom I had served at Jefferson Barracks : but indepen- 
dent of the most hearty hospitality — which I have ever 
met with on these occasions — an arrival, a new face, at 
such an outpost of civilization as this, is a bright link in 
that nearly severed chain which connects it with the world, 
gives an exciting impulse to its small society, which re- 
acts upon the visitor, and is the source of unwonted 
pleasure to all. 

The defences of this fort are high stone walls ; it stands 
on an elevated point, the confluence of the Mississippi 
and St. Peter's rivers. In the rear is a prairie, nearly 
level, and many miles in extent: an agreeable circum- 
stance, when it is considered that chasing wolves and 
racing are almost the only resource for amusement and 
exercise. I rode over it nine miles, to the Falls of St. 
Anthony. The Mississippi here falls twenty-two feet 
perpendicularly ; in places, immense masses of rock, dis- 
jointed and fallen from immemorial abrasion, add to the 
scene a sublime confusion and roar of waters. I heard 
that evening at the fort the sound of the falls very plainly. 
They are said to mark the 45th parallel of north latitude. 

During my stay of two days, one of the Mackinaw 
boats in which I had gone up was condemned, and sold 
at auction (for $5 !) to an officer of the fort, an old friend, 
who decided to accompany me on my return. We took 
our departure in the afternoon, having for crew my pilot 
and a discharged soldier, with a negro lad for " cabin 
boy ;" one of us was always at the helm. Some eight or 



INTHEARMY. 33 

nine miles down, my friend discovered that he had un- 
luckily left a well-stored liquor case. We landed in con- 
sequence, near an Indian camp, and despatched two In- 
dians with a note for it ; they went in a canoe. We en- 
camped, and were somewhat annoyed by the intrusion of 
our red friends. 

While waiting for the messengers, let me give an ac- 
count of our messing. There was abundant store of cold 
boiled ham, of the true Virginia flavor — of corned beef, 
and of chickens : and the buffiilo tongue should not be 
forgotten. Our coffee — not used with the stinting hand 
of a frugal housekeeper — was made after the most ap- 
proved method, and with extreme care and attention ; it 
was drawn with boiling water, like tea, and not suffered 
to boil afterwards. But who shall do justice to the veni- 
son, roasted in bits on a stick, with alternate pieces of 
salt pork ? First, the pleasing toil of the hunt, and the 
triumph of success ; then the labor-inspired appetite, after 
the long fast which excitement forgot ; then the lively 
fire at night, under majestic forest trees ; and oh (climax), 
the pieces of venison, bitten with nature's weapons — not 
profaned with cold dull knife — and reeking hot from the 
wooden spit ! " 0, let me die eating ortolans, to the 
sound of soft music !" Bah ! 

About midnight I was awoke from a sound sleep ; a 
candle was just expiring in the tent; I looked up and 
saw two dark forms almost over me, uttering Avith violent 
gesticulation the loudest and most uncouth sounds. I had 
instinctively grasped my rifle, and was very near putting 
it to its natural use, but it was our messengers, with the 
liquor case, who were half drunk, and making an ill-timed 
speech to my companion : seeking, I suppose, to raise the 
means of completing their happiness. 



34 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The next morning early, ■while steering, wrapped in a 
pea-jacket, the currrent " took a sheer" on the rudder, 
and quick as thought precipitated me backwards into the 
river. I got out without much difficulty, hut it was a 
rather rough adventure, when the freezing weather is 
considered. 

True to its character, we passed Lake Pepin with a 
tempestuous wind ; we had a large sail up, hut so deficient 
in tackle, that any sudden flaw of wind would have sunk 
us. The waves were very high, and I steered with a man 
holding my leg, to prevent my being thrown overboard. 
But the wind was steady, and we went through safely and 
right speedily. 

The next day, while sailing with a high wind, we beheld 
another Mackinaw boat, making its way to meet us, rowed 
by six or eight lively Frenchmen, dressed cap-a-pie in 
red. We boarded her in the middle of the river ; in 
doing which, I unluckily snapped in two our best oar, in 
endeavoring to lessen the concussion. We beheld a friend, 
Mr. T., an Indian agent ; and, surmounting a vast pile of 
furniture, &c. &c., his newly-married wife — a rough intro- 
duction to the Northwest, she thought, no doubt. I had 
passed this party at the Des Moines rapids. 

We sailed late, seeking a fit spot to encamp. The red 
light of burning prairies reflected in the troubled clouds, 
and again from the waters beneath — the sombre forests 
of shore and islands — the winds, now rushing in fearful 
gusts through the mountain passes, now heard in the 
moaning of distant forests — presented a wild, dreary, and 
fearful scene. The boat, scarcely manageable, was 
tossed and driven, stern foremost, on a mud-bank, where 
in shoving oif, I further reduced our scanty stock of oars, 
by leaving one firmly imbedded. My companion lost his 



IN THE ARMY. 35 

temper ; we made a landing, kindled a small fire, and 
wrapped in our cloaks, sought repose in moody silence, 
each upon his blanket. 

We arrived at Prairie du Chien, early on a cold and 
frosty morning, and found the troops drilling. That 
drilling, before breakfast, is not a fine thing in practice, 
if it be so in theory, either in cold or warm weather. I 
well remember at the Military Academy, mere lads as we 
were, that fasting and exhausted, with feet thoroughly 
soaked with dew, we found such drills almost intolerable. 
They no doubt looked very interesting to the Board 
of Visitors, or others, strolling out for a few moments for 
fresh air, on gravelled walks, between rising and break- 
fast. 

We luckily found a steamboat at the Prairie, and the 
next day took passage for Galena. We arrived ofi" the 
mouth of Fever River at the same time with another boat 
from below, and a spirited contest took place for prece- 
dence, as the river is too narrow to admit of two passing 
at the same time ; several skilful manoeuvres were exe- 
cuted by both vessels, and all hands became much excited. 
We plainly saw them loading a swivel, which they loudly 
threatened to fire into us. We gave them the go-by, 
however, without loss of life or limb. They had loaded 
with potatoes, it afterwards appeared, and I believe we 
were well contented with escaping the test of their effi- 
cacy. 

Galena (so appropriately named) is eight miles from the 
mouth of Fever River, narrow, deep, and sluggish to this 
point ; above, it is a shallow and insignificant stream. 
This is the depot for the mining district ; and though 
destined to importance and wealth, it was then merely a 
place of business, and as rough and lawless as new. Our 



36 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

stay there was rendered particularly disagreeable by con- 
stant rain ; and it seemed that no other mud in the world 
possessed so nearly the tenacity of glue : so that the town 
was rendered nearly inaccessible from the boat by the 
high bank. 

The Galenians, jealous of the reputation of their town 
for health, or discontented with an ominous name, con- 
tend that " Fever" is a corruption of the French name 
Feve, or Bean River. (Prairie du Chien, or Dog Prairie, 
is said too, to be properly P. de Chene, Oak Prairie.) 

I was politely invited to breakfast with a young mer- 
chant, with whom I had formed a slight acquaintance 
above. So the morning after my arrival, at a seasonable 
hour, I abandoned, with some misgivings, the scene of 
very comfortable arrangements for that meal in the cabin ; 
effected an escalade of the bank (of mud), and after much 
difl&culty in ascertaining the whereabout of my intended 
host, arrived at a retail store in a log hut, and was shown 
over the counter, into a cuddy of a counting room. Here 
I was allowed ample time to make a. survey of the dirty 
void around me, and to wonder at an alarming delay of 
any sensible sign of preparation, or any mention of the 
meal, which the damp air and the late hour constantly 
conjured to the imagination, before my considerate host 
chose to find time to offer me his salutations. A new 
period of anxious doubts was then passed in the most 
commonplace remarks, which an effort of politeness 
seemed to extract from us. At length my kind friend 
seemed posed, and seized the desperate expedient of 
offering me a glass of — heaven knows what ! — gin — or 
whiskey. 

Of the three meals, commend me to my breakfast ; 'tis 
the one I love, and linger over, with silent and grave 



IN THE ARMY. 37 

complacency ; but now, all desperate in prospect, the 
matter could no longer remain in suspense. A convic- 
tion of the unaccountable follj of having put my trust 
in a bachelor establishment, in the new and dismal depot 
of the mining district of Northwestern Illinois, or the 
savoir-faire of its Yahoo head, flashed over me : — an ex- 
planation was demanded ; and I believe Mr. M. took the 
trouble to intimate that he boarded at a certain eating- 
house, distant a quarter of a mile of chaotic mud, where he 
had satisfied the cravings of nature, as well as he could, at 
some indefinite antecedent period of that gloomy and ill- 
fated morning ! No apology being offered — I believe the 
fellow had forgotten his ridiculous invitation — I made him 
my politest bow, and escaped from his den, vowing never 
again to accept an invitation to breakfast ; a vow I have 
seldom broken, and never, I believe, without regretting it. 
That evening, for the sake of a nearer view of men and 
things at this Ultima Thule of civilization, I accompanied 
an acquaintance to a tavern ; and I had in my mind, I 
confess, a distinct conviction of the basis of the develop- 
ments of character which were expected in these miners, 
adventurers, and outlaws. I was ushered into a large 
barn-like room, the common scene of eating, drinking, 
smoking, lounging, and sleeping ; and it now presented 
strong evidences, as I expected, of still another appro- 
priation, to wit, gambling. With little delay, and less of 
ceremony, I found myself one of seven (I had reason to 
believe, the most respectable citizens of the town), around 
a table in a corner, and the "papers" in motion; every 
man " bragging" according to his " pile ;" and I emphati- 
cally, on my "own hook;" for I was a stranger in a 
strange place. I was more intent upon my observations, 
than the matter before me, and it was not long before I 

4 



38 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

could count eight or ten different tables, each surrounded 
by players, say fifty men, all swearing or talking loudly ; 
many intoxicated, disputing, and quarrelling. 

My interest in this characteristic display might be 
thought a little exciting, when it is borne in mind that of 
this large and turbulent assemblage, very few were above 
my suspicions of any particular accomplishment, from the 
slipping of a card to the cutting of a throat. 

Being careless, fortune seemed to favor me ; and as my 
"pile" grew, so the force of circumstances seemed in a 
strange manner to increase the visible protrusion of the 
handle of a trusty dirk-pistol from the left breast pocket 
of my overcoat. Perhaps it was an instinctive action 
upon the maxim, " do at Rome as the Romans do." My 
apprehensions, however, on the score of the silver, were 
premature and groundless ; I was spared the dangerous 
responsibility of guarding home any extra amount of trea- 
sure ; and in fact, trying to persuade myself of a quid 
loro quo, I very philosophically congratulated myself on 
a specific gravity lessened by a few pounds avoirdupois, 
as I made my soundings through the street, on the dark 
errand to my steamboat berth. The next morning — a 
stranger may be allowed to remark it — a man was found 
at the river edge, quite dead, from a wound of his carotid 
artery. 

Mining, or rather the search for veins or "leads" is, in 
itself, a pursuit dictated by a restless, unsettled spirit of 
adventure, of the same character as that which finds vent 
in gambling ; and in a new pioneer settlement of adven- 
turers thus attracted, and of lawless, licentious workmen, 
a decided prevalence of this and its kindred vices might 
be calculated on with certainty. But the same, in a less 
degree, is the character and spirit of the inhabitants of 



IN THE ARMY. 39 

all new States ; and accordingly, gambling is found openly 
to prevail in the West. That indolence, satiety, and a 
natural thirst for excitement, debarred from more honor- 
able outlets in old established and formal societies, lead 
to the clandestine indulgence of this vice, and to excess, 
in the old States, is very well known ; but it is concealed 
carefully beneath the smoother surface of affairs. In the 
West it was almost universal, and is open and unimpeached. 
It was not uncommon for traders or farmers on the way 
to a market, to adventure their produce at the gaming- 
table, then, but happily not now, so universal on the 
steamboats. 

We were fortunate, so late in the season (the end of 
November), to obtain a passage in a steamboat to St. 
Louis ; so, after a stay of some days at Galena, we gladly 
embarked for more congenial scenes. Cards were the 
order of the day, and of the night ; it was nothing strange 
that the captain and other officers of the boat should be 
thus almost constantly engaged; but it was remarkable 
that the former personage should be rather more than 
suspected of cheating, a circumstance that was very pub- 
licly and plainly insinuated by my companion, Lieut. H. 

We arrived in St. Louis, December 2d. 



CHAPTER VL 

Another winter was passed at Jefferson Barracks. It 
has left little impression on my memory ; and I lament, 
that I may say, less on my mind. It is a confession that 
many might make, under the unfavorable circumstances 



40 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

of the service. I had determined to throw up my com- 
mission, and to seek a more stirring and exciting profes- 
sion. At the very crisis, Fate — it is a favorite word with 
your soldier, or your Turk — decided differently, inasmuch 
as I was ordered on active service, which I did not con- 
sider it honorable to decline. Four companies of the 6th 
infantry were ordered to be filled up — officers and men 
by selection — and to march as the first escort of the 
annual " caravan" of traders going, and returning, be- 
tween Western Missouri and Santa Fe. 

May 4, 1829. — We were embarked ; the steamer was 
aground. I stood on the gunwale of a flat-boat lighter, 
filled with men ; the scabbard of my sword (fastened to 
the belt by a ring) unaccountably became detached, and 
fell into the river and disappeared, leaving the blade still 
more strangely suspended : it was an omen. Thenceforth 
I was devoted to the service of the Republic. 

It was remarkable how large the proportion of married 
men was among those selected to fill our companies (but 
not strange — for your bachelor, when a little "old," is 
good for nothing but to take care of himself). The boat 
swarmed with their wives and children ; the deck was 
barricaded with beds and bedding ; infants squalled, and 
chickens cackled ; the captain was at a nonplus ; the 
quartermaster was in a fever of contention and official 
opposition, and voted all contraband ; our commander was 
wroth, and stuck i^or the "free bottom" principle, where 
the Government and its servants were concerned. General 
A. had to interpose to restore peace ; and in the guise of 
the founders of a colony, we set forth for our adventures 
in the western deserts, where we were destined to see no 
woman for near half a year. 

In ten days we landed at Cantonment Leavemvorth 



IN THE ARMY. 41 

(then abandoned bj the 3d infantry for unheal thiness). 
It was the quickest passage that had then been made. 
We were not to march for a week or two ; a day for meet- 
ing the traders at the " Round Grove," some fifty miles 
west, having been agreed upon. 

Probably in consequence of most of the oxen having 
been bought and conducted to the river opposite Fort L., 
it was determined to commence the march on that side, 
and cross back to the right bank above Independence 
(thus avoiding the Kansas, where there was no ferry). 
We had twenty wagons, laden heavily with provisions, 
and four ox-carts for camp equipage. 

The battalion marched on the 5th of June. I had 
breakfasted and mounted guard at 4 A.M., and at a much 
later hour brought up the rear ; and it was dark night 
when, having marched seven mileSj I found myself in the 
miry and dreary bottom of the Little Platte River, where 
half the baggage train were fast stuck for the night. I 
passed on with my men to the ford ; the companies (and 
my mess chest) were somewhere beyond. So, hoping that 
my next breakfast would be as early as my last, I lay 
down in my cloak and went to sleep. 

Next morning, one of my guard, "an old soldier," 
brought me a nice broil. '■'■ Lefi'^it" said he, touching 
his cap, with a suppressed grin, " will the Left'nt have a 
piece of cub f But, verily, if^fyL«d been a Jew, I was 
hungry enough to have eaten it. 

After a laborious march of five days, averaging some 
seven miles a day, through the Missouri and its creek 
bottoms, we had again crossed, and encamped on the verge 
of the " Grand Prairie." After delving so long in lofty 
but sombre forests, we felt highly exhilarated to view from 
a light and airy grove its green and flowery expanse, 



42 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

which seemed to return the smiles of this sweet month of 
June. 

Here was delightfully situated on the edge of the 
grove, with the advantage of the seldom-failing breezes 
from the prairies, like those from the sea, the house (and 
the last we were to pass) of the sub-agent of the Dela- 
wares — the hospitable old Major C, who, with ready joke 
and julep, did his best to make our long farewell to the 
settlements, a lively one. 

The next morning we struck out boldly into the great 
prairies — a constant succession of rolling hills — here, 
and for more than a hundred miles beyond, variegated 
and beautified by wooded streams, running first to the 
right into the Kansas, then to the left into the Neosho ; or, 
like that, into the Arkansas River. This first day's 
march was twenty-six miles, and after 11 o'clock we met 
with no water ; I was scarcely able to raise a foot from 
the ground when we arrived in the evening at the Round 
Grove, the rendezvous, where we found the "Caravan." 

The traders were about seventy in number, and had 
about half that number of wagons, with mule and a few 
horse teams. They organized themselves into a company 
and elected Mr. B. of St. Louis, their "captain," an 
office that experience had pronounced indispensable, but 
was nevertheless little honored; for danger itself, un- 
credited, because unseen, could not overcome the self- 
willed notions and vagrant propensities of the most of 
these border inhabitants — self-willed and presumptuous, 
because ignorant. 

I expected to be so sore as to be scarce able to march 
next morning, but was most agreeably surprised to find 
myself as supple and fresh as ever. After marching fif- 
teen or twenty miles a day, for five or six days, crossing 



IN THE ARMY. 43 

two or three timbered creeks daily, we arrived at the 
Council Grove : it is a beautiful piece of timber, through 
which runs the Neosho River, though here, indeed, merely 
a fine broad creek, about forty feet wide. Here again, 
we were delighted with a change from hot prairies to a 
cool and beautiful retreat ; where we wandered about 
under a lofty dome of verdure, breathing the fragrance 
of the luxuriant grape vine, and listening to the songs of 
birds ; there was nothing to remind us of the ocean of 
prairie around, save the pleasures of a delightful contrast. 

After leaving the Grove, the vast sameness of the prai- 
ries was seldom relieved by a fringe of trees, even on the 
creeks. Cow Creek, though much further on, is an ex- 
ception, a fine stream, skirted with pleasant forest glades ; 
it abounded with fish, which, of several pounds weight, 
were caught as fast as the line could be handled. And 
near here — the era of the expedition — was first heard 
the exciting cry of "Buff"alo !" Many pleaded for per- 
mission to pursue ; our few horses, about a dozen, were 
in great demand, and several went on foot. We dashed 
over the hills, and beheld with a thrill of pleasure, the 
first stragglers of these much-talked-of animals ; pell- 
mell we charged the huge monsters, and poured in a 
brisk fire, which sounded like an opening battle ; our 
horses were wild with excitement and fright; — the balls 
flew at random — the flying animals, frantic with pain and 
rage, seemed endued with many lives. One was brought 
to bay by whole volleys of shots ; his eyeballs glared ; 
he bore his tufted tail aloft like a black flag ; then shaking 
his vast head and shaggy mane in impotent defiance, he 
sank majestically to the earth, under twenty bleeding 
wounds. 

The " Cottonwood Fork" (of the Arkansas) is a pretty 



44 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Stream, and relieves the eye, wearied with resting on 
nought but prairies : its banks are high and rocky. At 
the crossing there is a lofty bluff, near the Arkansas 
River, which we had now first approached ; but making, 
as we ascend, a great southern bend, the trail taken in 
wet seasons strikes it again eighty miles beyond ; in this 
distance, we several times approached it for water. We 
encamped the night after leaving the Cottonwood on Rac- 
coon Creek, which is the last that we saw ; not a tree or 
shrub was on its banks, though abounding with the animals 
which give it its name : they live on fish. We were thus, 
and often after, dependent upon buffalo ordure for fuel. 

Next day we passed (we had seen it from afar) an iso- 
lated, abrupt, and rocky hill or mound, perhaps 100 feet 
high ; an extraordinary feature in this region of country ; 
one that might suggest the idea of Bush's elevated camp 
in the "Prairie;" a novel, as remarkable for its absurd 
plot, as for the fidelity of its description of scenery and 
scenes, which the author had never visited or witnessed. 

Prairies are much alike in their main characteristics ; 
though in the region Avhich we now approaphed, their 
immense extent made them, compared to those of the 
Western States, as the broad expanse of ocean, to the 
land-locked bays of its margin ; and losing the fertility 
and the variety of hill and dale, of murmuring streams 
and pretty groves, which adorn those lake-like prairies, 
these further resemble the ocean in its dreary and unvary- 
ing aspect. 

We marched about 130 miles, always in view of the 
Arkansas (or its adjoining scenery), and in all this dis- 
tance saw only here and there a tree, immediately on its 
banks, and a few others on the frequent flat and grassy 
islands, which present to the eye of the hot and weary 



INTHEARMY. 45 

traveller, a most delightful and inviting appearance ; not 
so deceptive as the mirage, which here, as in Asia, is fre- 
quently observed, but as unavailing and tantalizing. The 
valley of this ^qjper Arkansas is about a mile wide ; the 
river flowing generally at the foot of a lofty bluff, wind- 
ing its course from one to the other side of low, flat, 
luxuriant savannas. 

More than once, from the tops of these high sandy 
hills, we saw far away, in almost every direction, mile after 
mile of prairie, blackened by buffaloes. One morning, 
when our march was along the natural meadows by the 
river, we passed through them for miles ; they opening 
in front and closing continually in the rear, preserving a 
distance scarcely over three hundred paces. It is known 
that when enraged, or when there is the slightest appear- 
ance of being cornered, the buffalo rushes blindly forward 
at any opposition, as furious as a Malay "running a 
muck." On one occasion, a bull had approached within 
two hundred yards without seeing us, until he ascended 
the river bank ; he stood a moment shaking his head, and 
then made a charge at the column. Several ofiicers 
stepped out and fired on him, and two or three dogs 
rushed to meet him ; but right onward he came, snorting 
blood from mouth and nostril at every leap, and with the 
speed of a horse and the momentum of a locomotive, 
dashed between two wagons, which the frightened oxen 
nearly upset ; the dogs were at his heels, and soon he 
came to bay, and with tail erect, kicked violently for a 
moment, and then sank in instant death, — the muscles 
retaining the dying rigidity of tension. 

About the middle of July, from high hill-tops — the 
Pisgah of our pilgrimage — we descried the promised rest 
from our far wanderings — the limit of our march — Chou- 



46 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

teau's Island, on the Mexican border. Weary and athirst, 
on the sandy hills, under a scorching sun, we beheld, amid 
the waves of the broad river, this beautiful island ; its 
green carpet of grass and umbrageous groves, inviting us 
to the cool shade and pleasant breezes. 



, CHAPTER VII. 

The Arkansas River is here the boundary of the United 
States and Mexico ; it is above 23 degrees west of Wash- 
ington City. Our orders were to march no farther ; and 
as a protection to the trade, it was like the establishment 
of a ferry to the mid-channel of a river. 

Traders had always used mules or horses. Our oxen 
were an experiment, and it succeeded admirably ; they 
even did better when water was very scarce, which is an 
important consideration ; and it may be mentioned here, 
that a pair were sent on some 400 miles further, to Santa 
Fe, and maintained their superiority, and that they have 
been generally used since. 

A few hours after the departure of the trading com- 
pany, as we enjoyed a quiet rest on a hot afternoon, we 
saw beyond the river a number of horsemen • riding 
furiously toward our camp. We all flocked out of the 
tents, to see, and hear the news, for they were soon re- 
cognized as traders. They stated that the caravan had 
been attacked, about six miles off, in the sand-hills, by an 
innumerable host of Indians ; that some of their com- 
panions had been killed, and — they had run, of course, 
for help. Major R. hesitated not a moment ; the word 



IN THE ARMY. 47 

was given, and the tents vanished as if by magic. The 
oxen, which were grazing near by, were speedily yoked 
to the wagons, and into the river we marched. Then I 
deemed myself the most unlucky of men ; a day or two 
before, while eating my breakfast, with my coffee in a 
tin cup — notorious among chemists and campaigners for 
keeping it hot — it was upset into my shoe, and on pulling 
off the stocking, it so happened that the skin came with 
it. Being thus lioi's du combat,, I sought to enter the 
combat on a horse, which was allowed ; but I was put in 
command of the rear guard, to bring up the baggage 
train. It grew late, and the wagons were slowly crossed, 
for the river unluckily took that particular time to rise 
fast, and before all were over, we had to swim it, and by 
moonlight. By doubling the teams in succession, some of 
the animals could touch and pull, whilst others swam. I 
was thus two hours in the river, mounted on a horse, with 
my lame foot across his neck. When safely over, I found 
that three companies had marched on, and we slowly fol- 
lowed. Awkwardly mounted as I was, I was seized with 
an invincible propensity to sleep ; and once having mis- 
taken a sand-hillock for the rearmost wagon, and halted, 
I took quite a nap before my men discovered the state of 
the case. We reached the encampment at 1 o'clock at 
night. All was quiet, and remained so until dawn, when, 
at the sound of our bugles, the pickets reported they saw 
a number of Indians moving off. On looking around us, 
we perceived ourselves and the caravan in the most un- 
favorable defenceless situation possible — in the area of a 
natural amphitheatre of sand-hills, about fifty feet high, 
and within gun-shot all around. There was the narrowest 
practicable entrance and outlet. 

We ascertained that some mounted traders, in spite of 



48 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

all remonstrance or command, had ridden on in advance, 
and when in the narrow pass beyond this spot, had been 
suddenly beset by about fifty mounted Indians ; all fled 
and escaped, save one, who, mounted on a mule, was 
abandoned by his companions, overtaken, and slain. He 
was a Mr. Lamb, the largest capitalist, and owner of the 
company. The Indians perhaps equalled the traders in 
number ; but notwithstanding their extraordinary ad- 
vantage of ground, dared not attack them when they made 
a stand among the wagons ; and the latter, all well armed, 
were afraid to make a single charge, which would have 
scattered their enemies like sheep. 

Having buried the poor fellow's body, and killed an 
ox for breakfast, we left this sand-hollow, which would 
soon have been roasting hot, and advanced through the 
defile — of which we took care to occupy the commanding 
ground — and proceeded to escort the traders at least one 
day's march further. 

These " sand-hills" compose a strip of country found 
occasionally a few miles off, on the Mexican side of the 
river, and where its valley has no abrupt boundary ; they 
are irregular hillocks of the loosest sand, seemingly 
formed by the sport of the wind. There is scarce a sign 
of vegetation, and they present an aspect as wild and 
desolate, and as little American, as possible. 

Emerging from the hills, we found ourselves on the 
verge of a vast plain, nearly level, where it seemed 
nature had ineffectually struggled to convert a sandy 
desert into a prairie. There was a scanty and dwarfish 
growth of wiry grass, brown and withered, amid the white 
sand. On we marched, under a fiery sun, facing a burn- 
ing wind. Not a tree, not a shrub, nor the slightest in- 
dication of water, could be seen in a view apparently 



IN THE ARMY. 49 

illimitable in every direction. Thus we struggled on 
until noon, when the panting oxen, with lolling tongues, 
seemed incapable of proceeding. A halt was made, and 
they were taken from the wagons, but stood motionless. 
The wind blew a gale, a true sirocco. We sought every 
cover to avoid it. A messmate — one of those unfor- 
tunates who prefer the dark side of a picture, and croak 
when a cheerful word of encouragement is needed — gave 
vent to his despondency, and sought to engender discon- 
tent and fearful apprehensions ; he predicted we would 
lose our baggage train, if not our lives, in the desert. 
Indignant, and without a better answer, perhaps, / un- 
dertook to prophesy, and actually foretold the exact 
event, viz. : that, pushing on, within ten miles we would 
find water and grass in some hollow, and buffalo too. 
After marching about that distance, we came to the 
sandy bed of a dry creek, and found in it, not distant 
from our course, a pool of water, and an acre or two of 
fine grass. On the surface of the water floated thick the 
dead bodies of small fish, which the heat of the sun had 
that day destroyed. After encamping we saw a few 
buffalo, attracted doubtless by the water ; and several 
were killed. Beyond our hopes, all our necessaries were 
thus ministered to ; it seemed a special providence. 

Next morning Major R. determined to march no fm'- 
ther into the Mexican territory. The traders held a 
council, and nearly half of them at first determined to 
remain likewise, and spend the summer with us. To 
combat this pusillanimous resolution we took the utmost 
pains ; it seemed that we were about to lose our time and 
property, and be disgraced, and not themselves. They 
were finally talked and shamed out of it. 

The sirocco still continuing, by enveloping a tin bucket 



r>0 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

with cotton cloths kept well wetted, we converted a hot 
and disgusting fluid into "ice-water;" and with the fur- 
ther comforts of a buffalo hump and marrow bone, we 
passed a pleasant day in the little oasis, and the suffer- 
ings of yesterday were forgotten. Fortunate constitution 
of the mind — happy life, where pain but gives a greater 
zest to the fleeting pleasure ! 

At the first light next day, we were in motion to return 
to the river and the American line, and no further ad- 
venture befell us, save a night alarm, occasioned by a 
sentinel firing at a noble setter dog, which luckily he did 
not hit ; the men turned out and took their places with 
the quiet precision of veterans, as they were. 

The vicinity of Chouteau's Island is further remarkable 
for a timbered bottom, which stands opposite its foot on 
the American side. We had seen none other after leavinsr 

O 

Council Grove, 300 miles back, although now and then 
we had passed pleasant open groves on the river bank. 
The battalion encamped immediately on the river opposite 
the island, a few hundred yards above the timber. 

While here, the terms of service of four men expired, 
and they were discharged ; and, contrary to all advice, 
determined to return to Missouri. After marching several 
hundred miles over a prairie country, and often on high 
hills, commanding a vast prospect, without seeing a human 
being, or a sign of one, and, save the trail we followed, 
not the slightest indication that the country had ever 
been visited by man, it was exceedingly difficult to credit 
that lurking foes were generally around us, and spying 
our motions. It was so Avith these men ; and being armed, 
they set out, on the first of August, on foot, for the settle- 
ments. That same night, three of the four returned. 
They reported that, after walking about fifteen miles, they 



IN THE ARMY. 51 

were siin-ounded by thirty mounted Indians. A wary 
old soldier of their number succeeded in extricating them 
before any hostile act had been committed ; but one of 
them, perhaps highly elated and pleased at their forbear- 
ance, or led by some blind fatality, insisted on returning 
among them to give them tobacco and shake hands. In 
this friendly act he was shot down. The Indians stripped 
him in an incredibly short time, and as quickly dispersed 
to avoid a shot ; and the old soldier, after cautioning the 
others to reserve their fire, did fire among them, and pro- 
bably with some effect. Had the others done the same, 
the Indians would have rushed upon them before they 
could have reloaded. They managed to make good their 
retreat in safety to our camp. 

On the 2d, Captain W., myself, and fifty men, were 
ordered to take a guide and proceed to search for and 
bury the body. We marched about fifteen miles ; our guide 
became bewildered, led us several miles from the river, and 
could not find the body. We were then suffering much for 
water. Dr. N. particularly, who vomited frequently, and 
seemed to think he could neither stand, walk, nor ride. 
Our course was then directed to the river. So great was 
the suffering, and the eagerness to reach water, that the 
party became strung out, according to their strength, in 
quite a sauve qui pent style. The river water was very 
muddy and very warm ; the Doctor could not drink — his 
stomach would not bear it ; but he threw himself in, and 
lay a long while, to relieve nature by absorption. We got 
to camp from our unsuccessful expedition about ten o'clock 
at night, as weary a set of fellows as ever marched. 

August 3, 1829. This morning a large party Avere sent 
out, with the same object, under Lieutenant I., who took 
other guides. The battalion was encamped in the order 



52 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

of the Eegulations, with the' rear on the river opposite 
Chouteau's Island ; the prairie hills skirted the river for 
miles, at a distance of about 500 j^ards ; along its banks, 
above, were trees enough nearly to conceal the prairies 
beyond. I was officer of the guard of forty men, stationed 
about 150 paces in front. About 2 o'clock, when all the 
cattle and our few horses were grazing about a mile off 
above, under a charge of five men, an alarm of great 
uproar and yelling was suddenly heard. I and my guard 
sprang into ranks, and looking to the left, saw the cattle 
rushing towards the camp, followed by between 400 and 
500 mounted Indians, who, decked in paint and feathers, 
uttering horrid yells, brandishing spears, and firing guns, 
and riding at full speed, seemed about to make an intrepid 
charge. At the first instant I conceived I was entering 
into a very doubtful battle, and reviewed in thought all 
the actions of my life ; in the next, seeing that the "light" 
company (armed with a kind of rifle, unloaded) was 
ordered to advance, to oppose the first onset of the 
enemy, I reflected that they might easily be cut to pieces, 
and that the cattle-guard, too, were exposed to instant 
destruction, and I asked for permission to advance with 
my command, with loaded muskets ; it was granted, and 
I set off in double quick time to meet the Indians, and en- 
deavor to avert these calamities. As we were about to 
meet the foremost, they branched off, firing on us as they 
ran, which, in view of the main body, I scarcely noticed, 
but kept steadily on, until I found they were all playing 
the same game; and the whole opened out at a respectful 
distance, like buffalo, and fled, or charged far clear of 
my flanks, except a body of them which seemed stationary, 
more than a half mile in advance. The company to my 
left had met the cattle-guard, and they were saved, with 



IN THE ARMY. 53 

the exception of one man, who had received eleven wounds. 
I looked back, and saw the camp suvronnded, at a respectful 
distance, by the Indians, all in rapid motion, a part still 
in pursuit of a body of cattle, rushing along the sand- 
bars and island, and heard two companies, formed in rear 
of the camp, firing at them regularly by platoon. I then 
marched round towards the front of the camp, which was 
wholly exposed ; the 6-pounder, as we passed, threw a 
round shot over our heads, and I saw it strike just in the 
midst of the body of the enemy which remained above, 
perhaps a mile from the piece ; it made a great commo- 
tion amongst them. The piece was then directed against 
the enemy galloping four or five hundred yards ofi", along 
the hill-side in front ; the grape-shot struck like hail 
among them, but seemed to hit but one. I then saw a 
company advancing in pursuit far beyond the right flank, 
and a bugle-signal, " double-quick," was sounded from 
the camp ; but of course they could not overtake a 
mounted enemy, but entered the Avoods to their right. 
The Indians were now beyond fire, though to be seen in 
every direction over the country ; but they gradually 
drew off, assembled on the hills beyond the river, fired a 
volley, gave a general yell, and disappeared. They 
carried off their dead, afterwards ascertained to be nine 
in number. Our loss was one man mortally wounded, 
and fifty oxen and twelve horses killed or driven off. 

On my first advance I saw an Indian handsomely 
mounted on a gray horse, gaudily ornamented with 
feathers, conspicuous for his rapid action and loud com- 
mands. A corporal on the right of my detachment was 
so much struck with him, that, unobserved, he came to 
a halt, and took a deliberate shot, but, I believe, came 
much nearer hitting myself. Tlie Indiana who dashed 



54 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

by the rear — their left flank exposed to a sharp fire — 
extended themselves along the right sides of their horses, 
hanging by the left foot and arm ; this last, with a bull's- 
hide shield attached, passed around the horse's neck, 
from beneath which they rapidly discharged their arrows 
— the shield covering arm, horse's neck, the head, and 
right arm below ! Excited as they Avere, they seemed 
the best of horsemen ; and rushed up and down places 
which few persons in cool blood would think of attempt- 
ing. A number of horses and cattle were killed. x\n 
Indian horse was at one time in our possession; but a gun, 
bow, quiver, and shield remained the only trophies of a 
doubtful victory. 

We now felt some little uneasiness for our detachment, 
though well commanded. It soon returned, having 
heard the cannonading ; they were hastened on, but un- 
luckily could not arrive in time to meet the Indians re- 
treating from the right flank. 

These Indians, who thus, from education and on prin- 
ciple, avoided our bold opposition, had we wavered or 
fled, would have proved the fiercest and most formidable 
pursuing enemy perhaps in the world. Their plan seemed 
to have been to cut off the cattle and their guard by a 
combined movement of two divisions ; the one moving over 
the hills on our side of the river, the other hidden by 
trees, from beyond the river, to meet the first. It was 
in a great measure disconcerted by the first party making 
its appearance too soon ; but it was still a surprise. 

Late that night, I received a report from the rear that 
the Indians were gathered close by for a rush upon the 
camp ; a sergeant was ready to swear to it, as he had 
distinctly heard hundreds of horses crossing the river to 
the island, which was near by, and the water very shallow. 



INTHEARMY. 65 

I instantly proceeded to tlie spot with a platoon : whilst 
patrolling up and down through the high, rank grass, 
leading the men, with a pistol in one hand and my sword 
in the other, I felt conscious of a want of prudence in 
being clothed in white, Avhile all the men had greatcoats, 
and expected at each moment to receive an arrow or a 
shot ; but no discoveries could be made in a quarter of a 
mile along the bank. I then heard myself what I thought 
must certainly be the noise of horsemen fording the river, 
and the battalion was quietly put under arms ; but nothing 
happened, and it was afterwards ascertained to be wolves, 
which were crossing to the carcasses of horses and cattle 
which had been killed. I am certain I could not now dis- 
tinguish their motion in shallow water from that of horses. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

After the attack of August 3d, our camps were 
formed in an order more suitable to our circumstances : 
in a square, open at the corners, a company in a single 
row of tents on each side, and across the angles, slightly 
masking the flanks of each company, were rows of wagons, 
the whole forming a kind of octagon. The cattle, always 
yoked, were grazed at a more cautious distance, and at 
night were tied to the wagon wheels. 

We were instructed to wait here for the return of the 
caravan, expected early in October. Our provisions con- 
sisted of salt, and half rations of flour (besides a reserve 
of fifteen days' full rations), and as to the rest we were 
dependent upon hunting. When bufi"alo became scarce, 
or grass bad, we marched to other ground, thus roving 
up and down the river for eighty miles. The first thing 



56 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

after encamping, we dug and constructed, with flour 
barrels, a well in front of each company ; water was al- 
ways found at the depth of from two to four feet, varying 
with the corresponding height of the river, but clear and 
cool. Next, we would build sod fireplaces ; these, with 
network platforms of buffalo-hide, for the purpose of 
smoking and drying meat, formed a tolerable additional 
defence, at least against mounted men. 

Hunting was a military duty, done by detail, parties of 
fifteen or twenty going out with a wagon. They threw 
out three or four hunters, and remained under arms for 
the purpose of protecting them, &c. Completely isolated, 
and beyond support, or even communication — self-depen- 
dent in any emergency that might arise, and in the midst 
of many thousands of Indians, whose concentration our 
long stay seemed to invite, the utmost vigilance was 
maintained. Ofiicer of the guard every fourth night, I 
was always awake, and generally in motion the whole 
night. Night alarms were frequent ; when, all sleeping 
in their clothes, we were accustomed to assemble instantly, 
and with scarcely a word spoken, take our places in the 
grass in front of each face of the camp, where, however 
wet, we sometimes lay for hours. I never failed for 
months to sleep in pantaloons and moccasins, with pistols, 
and a loose woollen coat for pillow ; my sword stuck in 
the ground in the mouth of the tent, with my cap upon 
the hilt ; and although I have often slept undisturbed at 
the firing of a cannon thirty paces off, here, always after 
the firing of a musket, if 500 yards off, in less than ten 
seconds I was out and prepared to perform my duty. 

August 11th. We were encamped in our new order, a 
few miles below Chouteau's Island. An alarm was given, 
and we were under arms for an hour until daylight. 



IN THE ARMY. 57 

During the morning, Indians were to be seen a mile or 
two off, leading their horses through the hollows. Cap- 
tain P., however, with eighteen men, a wagon and team, 
was sent across the river after buffalo, which we saw half 
a mile distant. In his absence, a large body of Indians 
came galloping down the river, as if to charge the camp ; 
the cattle were secured in good time. Captain W., with 
his company, of which I was Lieutenant, was ordered to 
cross the river and support Captain P. We waded in 
some disorder through the quicksands and currents, and 
just as we neared a dry sandbar in the middle, a volley 
was fired at us by a squad of Indians, Avho that moment 
rode to the Avater's edge. The balls whistled very near, 
but without damage ; I felt an involuntary twitch of the 
neck, and cried out with a great laugh, " Did you see 

that Wick? I dodged, by ." Wishing to return the 

compliment instantly before they fled, I stooped down, 
and the company fired over my head ; with what execu- 
tion was not perceived, as the Indians immediately retired 
out of our view. This had passed in half a minute, and 
we were then astonished to see, a little above, among some 
bushes on the same bar, the party we had been sent to 
support ; and we heard they had abandoned one of the 
hunters, who had been killed. We then saw above, on the 
bank we had left, a formidable-looking body of the enemy 
in close order ; and hoping to surprise them, we ascended 
the bed of the river : in crossing the channel we were up 
to the arm-pits, but when we emerged on the bank, we 
found that the Indians had detected the movement, and 
retreated. We then rested on our arms, and observed 
the fire of cannister from a six-pounder nearer camp, 
upon Indians who were galloping by, beyond musket 
range ; one was shot down, — when instantly, two others 



58 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

stopped, remounted him, and rode off, sustaining him on 
either side. Casting our eyes beyond the river, I saw a 
number of the Indians riding on both sides of the Avagon 
and team, which Capt. P. had deserted, urging the ani- 
mals rapidly towards the hills. I counted the Indians on 
that side, and there were but eighteen. At this time 
Captain W. received an order, through the Adjutant, to 
cross and recover the body of the slain hunter. On 
reaching the ground, we found it within the distance, as 
we were told, from whence the party, by order of Captain 
P., had made their precipitate retreat, although the cries 
of the poor fellow had been repeatedly heard, that they 
should not desert him. He was an old soldier, and a 
favorite, — bugler K. He was brought in, with an arrow 
still transfixing his huge chest; the scalp was gone. 

We were then surprised to see the wagon and team at 
a distance, and no enemy near ; and on approaching, 
were astonished at finding the oxen unwounded. I then 
begged, but was refused, the independent command of a 
platoon, with which I wished to try some experiments 
with the Indians, who were still in sight above, and near 
a cover which might have concealed my approach. I was 
stung by the contempt which these well-mounted savages 
showed for our powerlessness, on foot, to avenge the dis- 
grace which they had inflicted on us ; and to descend too, 
at such a moment, to the guard of butchers and a meat 
wagon, — for a buffalo had been unluckily killed there, — 
was a bitter pill. 

And now a storm approached ; and angry clouds set- 
tled heavily amid the shades of evening, while portentous 
columns of smoke rolled up, far and near — the answered 
signals to unseen foes ; and on the high hills, motionless 
horsemen were revealed like spectres against the sky, by 



IN THE ARMY. 69 

the glare of lightning ; a stricken corpse lay in our midst. 
Nature's gloom, with all its wildness, was infused into the 
spirits of our little band ; for fearful whispers of a sacri- 
fice passed like a panic to men in groups ; a voice for the 
vengeance of blood seemed moaning in the winds. 

And then, with darkness so dense as seemed to hush 
the very winds to silence, came a falling flood, the roar 
of whose approach appalled our shaken hearts. 

August 12th. The brilliant sun of a serene morning, 
followed this awful night, and cheered somewhat our 
wretched plight in a flooded camp. More calm art; noon, 
all fell in the silent ranks for the solemn duty of consign- 
ing, with all honor, our fallen brother soldier to his last 
wilderness home ; a week before, the beautiful but mourn- 
ful notes of the dead march, had — first in all time — 
pealed on this desert air ; and now again, but far more 
gloomily, was heard this martial requiem. 

It was a humiliating condition to be surrounded by 
these rascally Indians, who, by means of their horses, 
could tantalize us with the hopes of battle, and elude our 
efi'orts ; who could annoy us by preventing all individual 
excursions for hunting, &c., and who could insult us with 
impunity. Much did we regret that we were not mounted 
too; and I believe nearly all prayed that the enemy would 
become bolder, and enliven us with frequent attacks ; but 
this was their last, though they were frequently seen hover- 
ing around ; and the running of buff'alo was a sign of their 
vicinity, frequently observed on our hunts. It is known 
that they crawl to the tops of commanding hills, and 
using the head and skin of a wolf as a mask, spy out the 
motions of an enemy, with little or no risk of discovery ; 
but despising us — wholly on the defensive — they now 
took not this trouble, but appeared openly on the hills. 



60 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

We learned afterwards, through Mexican traders, that 
our motions had been watched the whole route from 
Council Grove ; whilst we, concluding from appearances, 
scarcely conceived that a human being could be within 
hundreds of miles of us. The spies who had Avatched us 
reported our coming in great force, and ivith white buffalo. 
It would seem that these Indians had never seen the ox 
before. We saw a singular proof of the ignorant interest 
with which they regarded this animal, a few days after 
the action of Chouteau's Island. One of the oxen that 
had fallen into their hands somehow escaped, and appeared 
on the river bank, opposite to our camp, making its way 
to water. It Avas secured, and I was sent across to search 
for others in the country around. After going some 
miles, we found carcasses among the sand-liills, with all 
the white spots carefully cut out from the rest of the hide. 
T' ese pieces of white were doubtless taken away by the 
Indians as trophies. 

Unfortunately, but fcAV books had been provided — 
Shakspeare, a copy of the old Regulations, and but one 
or two others ; all of Avhich I read regularly through, and 
the first-named more than once. Hunting, except by 
detachment, was dangerous, and forbidden ; but occa- 
sionally an antelope or a deer was killed. Of that sin- 
gular animal — the antelope — v,'e saw great numbers ; and 
in the fall, once or tAvice, many hundreds in a gang, which, 
all of one accord, would dash hither and thither with 
AA'onderful swiftness, looking at a distance, like the shadow 
of a moving cloud. There Avas a remarkable species of 
hare, near twice the size of the Eastern ; the fleetest of 
the prairie animals, though in very tall grass they were 
easily caught. I had a nearly tame one, which fed on 
rushes, which Avould disappear in its mouth as if pushed 



IN THE ARMY. 61 

through a hole. Badgers were common ; and prairie 
foxes of light and elegant proportions. We met with 
many prairie dog "villages;" whole acres of their bur- 
rows, with entrances in a small mound ; the animal more 
resembles a ground-squirrel than a dog ; being of the 
same color, and not more than thrice the size. They are 
very shy, and quick as light in their motions ; they come 
to the mouths of their holes, and bark at intruders ; it is 
a bark, in manner of utterance, but of a treble intona- 
tion, more resembling that of a bird than of a dog. Of 
wolves, there were thousands, of all kinds and sizes, ex- 
cept the large black wood wolf; never an hour of a night 
passed without the accompaniment of their howls, even by 
day they were to be seen around. One dark night, being 
officer of the guard, I advanced some two hundred paces to 
a spot where there was an excavation and a small mound 
of earth, and where garbage had been thrown ; from the 
mound, I saw perhaps a dozen snarling over their unclean 
food ; sword in hand, I sprang down among them ; they 
scattered, but I did not stay long to see how far. Rattle- 
snakes were very numerous, and dangerous ; we lost 
several horses by their bites. Wild horses we saw fre- 
quently, but not many. A horse which we lost August 
3d, was recovered from a gang a month or two afterwards. 
We only saw elk once, about two hundred together. 
Buffalo, wolves, rattlesnakes, and grasshoppers, seemed 
to fill up the country. 

But to return to our occupations. We fished a little, 
hunted, and read a very little ; and the only alternative 
seemed the manufacture of buffalo powder-horns. Hun- 
dreds were made in the camp, and some very beautiful ; 
the horn is quite black, and receives a fine polish, and 
being exceedingly thick, admits of much carving ; with 

6 



02 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

the laborious and patient care of Chinese, some were 
carved and inhxid with bone ; but many other articles 
were made — spoons, combs, cups, buttons, •wine-glasses, 
&c. ; some very pretty pocket-combs, with Avhite handles, 
were made by one of the men. 



CHAPTER IX. 

But little occupied, — so limited in books and amuse- 
ments, — the time passed heavily enough ; but happily our 
little society, — there were just a dozen of us, — was har- 
monious and cheerful. We were accustomed, in the fine 
summer nights, to form a little circle, — lying in easy atti- 
tudes upon the grass, — and thus to hold communion of 
thoughts and speculations upon the past and future. 
Gazing like Chaldeans, on the stars, our imaginings and 
discourses were ever of the distant and unseen. The 
telling of stories was, of course, a favorite resource. Here 
is one which I wrote out with some of the reporter's 
accustomed license ; although from a youthful source, its 
accurate descriptions of Rocky Mountain scenery, as well 
as some Indian traits, induce me to record it. 

Sha-wah-now. 

Late in the afternoon of a spring day, and many years 
ago, a solitary Indian might have been seen toiling at the 
dangerous ascent of one of the Rocky Mountains. He 
followed the deep-worn chasm of the mountain torrent, 
where often the flood of waters bore in awful confusion, 



IN THE ARMY. 63 

earth, rocks, and trees. Now, with the nerve of a cha- 
mois hunter, he cleared a fearful space : a moment's con- 
templation of the void below, bounded by the naked jut- 
ting rocks, must have disturbed the brain of the most 
hardy. And now, he traces the projecting ledge of the 
mountain precipice ('twas never meant for a path) ; below 
him is death : a look must cost his life ; above him ver- 
tical granite ; not a vine nor twig to help him to life ; his 
fingers grow to the rocks ! his eagle gaze, if a moment 
averted, were dimmed; that step may save him! it is 
made ; he is safe ! 

Sha-wah-now was safe ; the last difficulty was behind 
him, and he stood upon the mountain's brow. Brave was 
he, and distinguished for success in war ; his person bore 
about it the ?egis of dignity, which commanded the re- 
spect of the men, and the fond attachment of the women, 
of his tribe. He was dressed in skins of the purest 
white ; his bust was bare, but for a furred robe which was 
folded beneath his shoulder, leaving his right arm freed 
for action. He wore at his back a bow and well-stored 
quiver, and in his belt was a tomahawk. 

He leaned his lofty form against a rock, and contem- 
plated the dangers he had passed — the valley below and 
the mountains beyond, with mingled feelings of simple 
devotion to the Great Spirit, and admiration at a view 
where beauty and sublimity were mingled in the happiest 
proportions. The sun in mid-heaven is but a tame 
spectacle ; his effect, though dazzling, is simple ; there he 
is something alike beyond our ken and thoughts, merely 
useful. But when he approaches, as it were, our earth in 
setting — is surrounded by the horizon's mist — it is then 
that he is the glorious father of a thousand beauties ; a 
hemisphere blushes red as roses ; a mountain structure of 



64 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

calm and motionless clouds, seems a palace of fancy 
adorned with every heaven-born hue. It was such a sun 
that shed its divine influence over that valley. The 
ground swelled into slight undulations ; a stream wound 
its way in the midst ; its banks were dotted with trees ; 
all was rejoicing in the influence of spring; all was covered 
with the most delicate hues of green. The soft light of 
the sun's lingering rays fell upon some spots only to con- 
trast the richer shade, and the surface of that valley ap- 
peared as fair, as soft, as a maiden's cheek ; and its con- 
templation filled, for a moment, as large and tender a 
spot in the heart of the Indian, as did the thoughts of his 
beloved, his beautiful — the lost Ayeta. 

And Sha-wah-now mused on, and to his excited mind 
came swelling tumultuous thoughts. Untaught by man 
and his vain books, he had drank deep of the inspiration 
of Nature in her majestic solitudes. Amid mountain 
storms he had ever rioted with wild joy. Amid the war- 
ring elements his spirit had ever sought fellowship of its 
own creations ; and then the pent-up broodings of his 
heart had fierce and loud utterance. His aspirations were 
wild, and turned on a nation's wrongs and their revenge : 
" Oh ! that I could clothe myself with the wings of the 
northern blast, and sweep with desolation the oppressor's 
race." 

And Sha-wah-now mused on, and perhaps grasped 
with intuitive perception the dim future of ages. He saw 
in mountain and valley, fresh from the hand of the 
Creator, the rise of a pastoral race, and beheld its glad 
youth delighting in the health and innocence of athletic 
games, whilst afar the generous earth smiled, o'er all the 
boundless plains, with the green promise, or the golden 
fruit of the husbandman's noble toil — the "Father of 



I N T H E A R M Y. 65 

"VVaters" — master of old, turbid and fearful — was now 
the humble slave of man, subdued by a kindred power, 
his offspring, kindled by the fire genius' spark set on. 
His ever-heaving bosom now seemed whelmed by a world's 
supply, commanding the undreamt perfections of slavish 
art. His Mentor, the genius of the valleys, pointed to 
this fair picture with a smile of godlike youth. 

His aspect changed, and lo ! there stood a graybeard 
stern ! He waved his arm — another hundred years rolled 

by. 

Sha-wah-now saw now a new world grown old. Sim- 
plicity and innocence had shrunk, or fled, or changed. 
No poet now invoked the forgotten goddesses of his art, 
nor lover in green solitudes could mingle his sighs with 
nature's soothing music. The granary of nations had 
become a smoky workshop of myriads of coal-begrimed 
men. He saw numberless dusky clouds that ceiled the 
dens of vast hosts, called cities — hotbeds of seething vice 
and crime, like foul insect swarms, in burnt earth and 
iron cells ; promiscuous they lived, but under slavish rule, 
finding in crowd-created and encouraged pleasures, sen- 
sual and oblivious, sole refuge from despair. 

Sha-wah-now long and intensely gazed. He saw no 
red man's face. But ere the simple question which his 
look betrayed, the demon mocked him, and was seen no 
more. 

The chief aroused him from this horrid dream, and 
sought the calm of communion with nature. 

The sun was now gone ; but oh ! how far on every side 
were mountains, some of majestic naked rock, some softly 
clothed with evergreens, clearly revealed in a flood of 
yellow light, or sharply outlined, to the earth's very 
border, it seemed, against a sky of purest air. 

6'* 



66 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The solemn twilight was settling fast in the deep val- 
leys ; the last rays of the sun were reflected from some 
distant snows, which, like hope to the dying, rose over 
the deathlike gloom below, pointing toward heaven. 

The universe, it seemed, was a solitude, where silence 
profound awaited a new creative voice. 

And now, to those faded snows, the new moon and 
evening star began to beam, like an answering sign ; and 
noAV, too, a sound of praise was heard in a gentle breeze, 
which stirred the mountain firs, as with a spirit anthem. 
Sha-wah-now was softened into prayer. 

Yes, the Indian prays ! — prays in these sublime soli- 
tudes, where he feels the Great Spirit very near ! 

Sha-wah-now thanked aloud the great Wah-con-dah, 
that he was there, firm in soul, and strong in arm, and 
asked but guidance in his desperate purpose. 

But what was the motive of Sha-wah-now's perilous 
journey ? 

Though fierce and inexorable in war, eloquent and 
profound in council, he, like some of the greatest men, 
had reluctantly at first, and then with enthusiasm, yielded 
to the heart's ascendency. 

Ayeta was the daughter of a brother chief. Early had 
she been marked as an extraordinary child ; one of re- 
tiring modesty, and fond of pensive solitude. Her eye 
was remarkable, as different from almost all her race ; it 
was blue, whilst the long lash and brow were of glossy 
black. Owing to youth and little exposure (she was the 
favorite and pride of her father), her complexion might 
have been envied as a clear brunette. Her mind was 
well fitted to so superior a mould. Sha-wah-now had 
marked her with a tender interest as early as her twelfth 
year. Before her sixteenth, he had wooed and won her 



INTHEARMY. 67 

heart. She admired him for those qualities which made 
him the pride of his nation, and which seemed to mark 
him as alone worthy to win so great a prize ; but more 
from hidden sources had sprung that holy sympathy of 
love which bound their hearts. 

But "the course of true love never did run smooth." 
War, relentless war, at once the scourge of love and pride 
of lovers, had fallen upon the tribe with unusual severity. 
Some of its governless, ambitious, and ever-restless youth 
had been unequal to a temptation to steal horses from 
their vagrant neighbors, the Chians ; reprisals were made; 
at length a scalp was taken ; the tribe was aroused to 
revenge ; the warrior put on his red and black paint, and 
'struck his battle-axe into the war-post. Cupid was 
frightened from his summer bower ; the maidens trembled 
for their lovers ; but each brave rejoiced in the confusion 
— in the storm which each aimed to direct. 

But, for Indians, this war had been conducted with ex- 
traordinary severity. In the absence of a very large 
party, conducted by Sha-wah-now, the Chians made a 
daring irruption, and took many women and children — 
and, what was unusual, some warriors — prisoners, with 
whom they were now on their retreat. Returning, and 
unsuccessful, he learned the unhappy truth. The nation 
had suffered severely ; his reputation was at stake ; but 
his inmost soul confessed, that worse than all, was his 
Ayeta a prisoner ! Great within him was the conflict of 
rage and despair ; he retired from all witnesses that might 
discover his weakness. He deemed that a curse was on 
him ; and, entirely alone, spent the night in fasting, and 
rude chants and prayers. He then made a vow to the 
great Wah-con-dah that he would not again enter a lodge, 
nor commune with his people, until he had avenged their 



(j8 scenes and advent UK es 

honor, and rescued his betrothed from the hands of the 
foe ; this he would do, or offer himself a sacrifice to the 
offended Deity. 

Such was Sha-wah-now's desperate errand. He that 
night allowed himself but little rest, for as he approached 
the probable vicinity of his enemies, caution and conceal- 
ment Avere necessary to that safety through which alone 
he could succeed. The next day in the trailed grass he 
discovered the fresh sign of a large party, the one, he 
was induced to believe, which he sought ; ere dusk he had 
gained, by untiring exertions, a high point, from which 
to make a close survey of the surounding country. After 
a long and anxious examination he thought he had de- 
tected a slight appearance of smoke rising from a spot 
not very distant. But then it was most improbable that 
his enemies would thus betray their night-camp. He 
watched the spot until, to his strained eyes, the " sign" 
became wholly uncertain, and when nearly in despair of 
making so soon the much wished discovery, his keen and 
practised ear detected the sound of horses. He no longer 
doubted. He was prepared, mind and body, for every 
risk, and commenced his noiseless approach. 

Hours were thus spent, but at length the whole truth 
was before him. He beheld, in a deep ravine below him, 
the camp of his foes, with the bound captives in the 
midst. The Avar-party, elated with success, and tired by 
the long and rapid excursion, had ventured, in their 
partial concealment, to light fires for better refreshment. 
Their dusky forms were extended in sleep around the 
dying embers. The horses were picketed almost in con- 
tact. Though eager for action, he made a deliberate 
survey of his enemies, and of the ground, both near and 
far as the eye could penetrate, by bright starlight. His 



INTHEARMY. 69 

plans were formed ; but an obstacle to probable success 
was presented in the wakefulness of an Indian who sat 
near the captives, gnawing at a bone. What must he 
do ? Wait till he should sleep ? It was absolutely neces- 
sary. It seemed an age. And would not another take 
his place and watch ? He knew that although they keep 
no sentinels, with all Indians in such camps, some one or 
a few .are nearly always awake, generally eating. But 
at length his feverish anxiety was relieved ; the uncon- 
sciously tantalizing Indian sank apparently into deep 
sleep. Now was his time or never. He commenced his 
stealthy approach, crawling flat on the earth, and was 
soon in the midst of those whose highest ambition was 
his scalp. He discovered his Ayeta ; she was sunk in 
deathlike sleep. Sha-wah-now touched her form ; she 
uttered a low murmur; he whispered in her ear, " Be silent 
or die." She opened her eyes, and beheld the warning 
face of her lover ; his finger was on his lips, enjoining 
silence. By an effort of a well-disciplined mind, she 
suppressed any audible emotion. He cut the thong Avhich 
bound her, and those of the other prisoners, but with the 
utmost caution not to arouse them. He then slowly ex- 
tricated himself from among his sleeping foes ; she as 
cautiously followed. He had cut loose a horse ; he 
clasped the maiden to his heart, and sprung upon its 
back. 

The first sounds of its motion, and the alarm was given. 
The Chians sprung to their feet. A moment for astonish- 
ment, a moment for discovery, and the next, an astound- 
ing yell of rage burst from the lips of all. 

Some rushed forward on foot with uplifted tomahawks, 
others hastily strung their bows, whilst the first cares of 
the many were to secure and mount their horses. Favored 



70 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

by the obscurity, the arrows flew harmlessly by the fugi- 
tives. They could only be arrested by horsemen ; and 
Sha-wah-now had chosen one of the best. Doubtful 
was the pursuit. Shame and rage stimulated the pur- 
suers to desperate efforts. Dai'kness and the winding 
valleys favored the flight ; but the enemy were widely 
dispersed, and all could not mistake the direction, though 
many were at fault. Encouraging shouts occasionally 
marked the point that all aimed at. But it would not 
do ; the pursuers dropt off, until, at last, one, who had 
outstripped all the rest, was left to his efforts. This 
Sha-wah-now soon discovered ; and right glad was he that 
it was no worse, for his jaded horse had begun to fail 
under its double burden. He was fast losing ground, and 
something must be done. 

Sha-wah-now was one of those whose faculties seem 
inspired to the mastery of great emergencies where the 
multitude are confounded ; and such men are known only 
in times of great or general calamity. Thus calm, he 
was prepared to meet the danger to which he considered 
his precious charge, rather than himself, was exposed. 
Practised in strategy as he was, a happy thought was soon 
suggested by the circumstances, which he hastened to 
execute. He spoke encouragingly to the half senseless 
girl ; explained his intention ; told her to sit firmly, and 
to continue to fly ; and then easily slipping from the horse, 
suffered himself to fall flat upon the ground. As expected, 
the change was not noticed by his pursuer, who rapidly 
approached straight to the spot. The bow was strung, 
the arrow was notched, and when he was within a few 
paces, it whizzed through the air. By the time the horse 
had reached the chief, who stood tomahawk in hand, his 
reeling foe fell headlong to the earth. He gave a signal 



IN THE ARMY. 71 

yell of triumph, hastily took the scalp, and having 
mounted the horse, was soon by the side of Ayeta. 

Sha-wah-now now slackened his speed ; but continuing 
steadily on, corrected his course as landmarks were re- 
cognized, with the view of reaching his village by the 
nearest route. 

Soon after the sun had risen, they suddenly found 
themselves in full view of a large and mounted body of 
men. The chief was much alarmed at the new jeopardy 
in which he saw placed his beloved Ayeta, now well-nigh 
exhausted with such unwonted efforts. His first impulse 
was a new retreat, the chances of which he endeavored to 
scan, by rapid glances at the country around. But he 
soon perceived that such was impossible ; that he had been 
discovered on the instant, and now about a score of them 
approached at full speed. But Sha-wah-now's practised 
eye had not failed ere they reached him, to penetrate 
their true character. They were friends, and of his own 
peculiar band. The delighted chief, exulting in his for- 
tune, uttered the loud and swelling cry of triumph, in that 
well-known voice which now electrified this band of eighty 
devoted braves. 

The first greetings over, the chief recounted to his 
brave friends, in the loud and rapid tones of eloquence, 
the incidents recorded ; and announced to them his readi- 
ness instantly to lead them to pursuit and certain victory. 
His address was received with peals- of applause, tinc- 
tured with that enthusiasm, with which mastei'-spirits can 
never fail on occasion to inspire the multitude. Ayeta 
was intrusted to the care and guidance of a friend ; and 
the chief, without further delay, set forth at a rapid pace, 
in the direction whence he came, at the head of the war 
party. The swift motion of fresh horses, and by day- 



(2 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

light, carried them in a short time over the ground which 
he passed very slowly, after the pursuit had ceased. 
Within two or three miles of the enemy's camp, the troop 
came so suddenly upon a footman as to endanger his life 
in their bloodthirsty excitement ; but he was instantly 
recognized. He was one of the captives whom Sha-wah- 
now had so thoughtfully released from the restraint of 
his bonds, and who, in the subsequent confusion, by large 
drafts upon that store of cunning, agility, and presence 
of mind, which Indians generally possess, had made good 
his escape, so far as to reach a neighboring place of con- 
cealment ; and there he lay perdu, until the enemy had 
taken their departure, which they did at daylight, with 
some indications of haste, if not confusion. This was a 
fortunate rencontre in two respects : for it so happened, 
the fugitive was one of the best guides of the nation, who, 
in the spirit of that habit of observation, which was the 
foundation of his skill, had watched critically the course 
which they took, and remarked those general features of the 
country which must necessarily modify it. He was 
mounted by direction of Sha-wah-now, behind one of his 
followers, and undertook to lead the party by a near route, 
which would intercept the retreat of the Chians. 

His judgment was verified by the result ; for the sun 
had not passed in his course to the meridian, through 
many more than that number of degrees which we desig- 
nate an hour, when, on issuing from the defile of two 
abrupt hills, upon one of those high level " table land" 
prairies, the enemy were exposed to view. The leader, 
by a powerful effort, suppressed a yell which was incipient 
in so many open throats, and led them at a sweeping, but 
little noisy gait, a good space — which was all gained — 
ere, owing to these precautions, they were discovered. 



IN THE ARMY. 73 

The instant that was ascertained, he ordered a charge, 
and set them a powerful example in one of those shrill 
outbursts of sound, of which the object, intimidation or 
panic, is often attained. It has an awkward effect upon 
the nerves, the sudden salute of fierce and quavering 
yells, especially when you see its accompaniment of ex- 
travagant and threatening action ; the flourishing of arms, 
the brandishing of spears, and the glaring colors of paint 
and feathers. 

But the Chians made efforts at organized resistance, 
honorable under the circumstances — of surprise, and the 
furious onset of rather superior numbers ; and their 
leaders too, were absent. Its only result was the loss, 
upon the spot, of some of their bravest men. A super- 
stitious anticipation of misfortune (to which Indians are 
subject), seemed to have taken hold upon their minds from 
the moment of their disaster in the night. The natural 
result was a panic, which soon led to a flight of desperate 
disorder. The scene which ensued, the East can never 
witness ; and its stirring interest, the regular shock of 
embattled thousands can scarcely equal. A race, a fox 
chase, an ordinary battle, are but in comparative progres- 
sion toward the intensity of excitement, which the sight 
and sounds of that flight and pursuit inspired ! And it 
ivas witnessed by two spectators, under peculiarly painful 
circumstances. The Chians had been led by two " par- 
tisans," who, at the moment of the surprise, were sepa- 
rated from their command, together on a hill, for the 
purpose of reconnoitring. For a few of those moments, 
big with results, they seemed paralyzed by their misfor- 
tune ; but quickly recovering, their minds were intensely 
wrought upon to decide upon the alternatives — death or 
dishonor. They decided differently. The one, with a 

7 



74 SCENES AND ADVBNTURE>S 

devotion unsurpassed in ancient or modern times, rushed 
onward to certain death. He charged furiously into the 
midst of his foes, and all alone, bravely fought and fell ! 
His enemies, full of admiration, spared his scalp ! 

The Chians, on the verge of the prairie, found them- 
selves rushing down the descent of what seemed a valley, 
and congratulated themselves with the hopes which un- 
even ground inspired ; but their cruel fates had decreed 
them unlimited misfortune. The valley soon fearfully 
narrowed, and finally ended in a ravine or immense gully, 
at the bottom of which Avas a stagnant pool ; into this 
the wretched fugitives were precipitated by an impetus 
which was irresistible, and all found their death. Their 
other leader, the only survivor, returned in safety to his 
tribe, and was suflfered, by a species of cruel mercy, to live, 
thenceforth, the life of a despised and miserable outcast. 

Sha-wah-now entered his village in an imposing proces- 
sion of triumph ; in which, after the liberated prisoners, 
all of whom he had safely rescued, the most imposing 
spectacle was seventy reeking scalps, borne aloft on 
spears, the bearers of which chanted triumphal songs. 
But were not his thoughts busy with the humble Ayeta ? 
Her safety he esteemed the happiest fortune of that 
eventful day. The grateful and devoted maiden thence- 
forth graced his lodge. 

Sha-wah-now had performed deeds that day, that could 
add lustre to even his name ; and long he lived, ever sus- 
taining his reputation and unrivalled influence. But at 
the festival, he ever recounted the rescue of his cherished 
Ayeta, as his greatest action. 

It is recorded, with the subsequent victory, upon a 
buffalo robe, in rude hieroglyphics, which were explained 
to me by an old chief, as a proud record of his tribe. 



IN THE ARMY. 75 

This romantic story did not escape some good-natured 
ridicule, in which the words " love-sick" and " unnatural," 
did not fail to be heard. After some discussion, Phil, 
assured the critics that all the circumstances of the battle 
and massacre were true and accurate : and this advantage 
gained, he began a serious argument to prove the high- 
toned, intelligent, and even romantic character often ex- 
hibited by the better Indian, — when suddenly he bethought 
him, rather to demand of one of the critics, a story of 
his own ; when D., a little to his surprise, promised to 
comply, so far as to give us, some other time, an account 
of some incidents which had really happened to a Punca 
woman. 



CHAPTER X. 

The next evening, accordingly, we were all assembled 
on the grass in expectation of the story, when D., after 
a little rallying, delivered himself as follows : 

Mah-za-pa-mee. 

The Punca Indians are a reduced band ; their warriors 
amount to no more than one hundred and fifty. They 
are invariably friendly to whites ; and are noted for 
bravery and swiftness of foot. Their village is at the 
mouth of the L'eau-qui-court, on the Missouri, a thousand 
miles from the spot where that river mingles with the 
Mississippi. In the spring of '14, a calumet party of 
about twenty Grand Pawnees paid them a visit in their 
villages ; the two tribes being on as good terms as Indians 



76 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

ever are. These are called by us, begging parties ; but 
with a desire always to make the best of human nature, I 
would ascribe to them less degrading motives ; for though 
custom decrees that presents be made on such occasions, 
all in turn give and receive. The visitors were " smoked" 
as usual ; feasted on fat dogs ; and then they sang, 
danced, and " counted their coups." What a simple but 
powerful incentive to virtue (Indian virtue), is this custom ! 
and how innocently is ambition thus sated ! The time is 
night ; brilliant fires burn around ; the stately chiefs are 
seated with all the cross-legged dignity of Turkish Pachas ; 
the animating music of the song peals forth ; the exhila- 
rated braves dance with emulous ardor and activity ; — for 
a moment they cease ; — one of them recounts a co7ip, 
deposits some article of small value, and tells the actor 
in a greater feat, to take it as his own. The dance is re- 
newed with increased animation, till at length another 
relates his superior adventure ; — his form seems to swell, 
his eye glistens with delight, as he removes the prize and 
lays it at the feet of the chief. Long they continue, but 
with endless variety ; until finally the chief distributes 
the simple honors, and thus adds his sanction to the merit 
of the prizes. Fashion decides that modesty is not want- 
ing in this self-praise; but it also requires and has the 
most powerful means to enforce, that the recital be the 
strictest truth. Thus does the red man of our forests 
closely imitate the noblest customs of Greece, in the day 
of her virtue and renown ! 

Thus were the visitors treated ; but a faithless return 
was made for open-handed hospitality. A young brave 
of their number, being very unceremoniously entertained 
by the principal chief, Shu-da-gah-ha, and his family, 
easily discovered an unfortunate difierence ; a jealousy 



IN THE ARMY. 77 

between his two wives ; and, struck with the appearance 
of the favorite, Mah-za-pa-mee — for she was a pretty 
woman — he determined to improve a temporary advan- 
tage, and engage in an intrigue. His affections, and 
ambition too, became engaged in the suit, and he warmly 
urged it. His good looks and eloquence combined to per- 
suade her that nothing could equal the Pawnees, and the 
delightful life they led : he told her that they killed more 
buffaloes, planted more corn and pumpkins, and had 
more scalp dances than any other nation ; and above all, 
they stole more horses too, and their squaws never walked. 
How could she resist so happy a picture ! She did not : 
she consented to fly with him to the promised paradise. 
His arrangements were easily made ; and the next night, 
like Paris, the beau ideal of beaux, he escaped triumph- 
antly with this modern Helena. Mah-za-pa-mee took with 
her an infant son ; and, guided by her lover, in due time 
arrived at the village of the Grand Pawnees, on the Rio- 
de-la-plata, Aiiglice, the Big Platte. 

On discovering the flight, the chief was quite outrage- 
ous : it was too late for pursuit : they had taken the best 
horses ; but the sacrifice of the remaining Pawnees, until 
then perfectly ignorant of the proceeding, could well 
appease his ire ; and, though innocent, they had paid 
with their lives the forfeit of the indiscretion, but for the 
active influence of Manuel Lisa. They were dismissed 
without presents, and with dishonor. But Shu-da-gah-ha 
had more pride or policy than Menelaus, and war did not 
immediately result. 

Not long after this affair, a small party of Dahcotahs, 
probably to prove the truth of Hobbes' theory of our 
nature, by carrying on a war, " whereof the memory of 
man runneth not to the contrary,"' directed their foot- 



78 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

stepa to the village of the Grand Pawnees : and there 
prowled about undiscovered, until at length they killed 
and scalped a son-in law of that very distinguished chief 
Car-ra-ra-ka-wah-wah-ho, whom the whites called Long 
Hair. This was done in darkness, and very near the vil- 
lage. A trail cannot he followed at night ; but very early 
the next morning, eighty braves were in pursuit as fast 
as their chargers would carry them. During the night, 
the Sioux had not been idle. An Indian afoot can travel 
as far perhaps in twenty-four hours, as another on horse- 
back. The next morning, the sun arose upon them near 
fifty miles from the Pawnee village ; the Pawnees per- 
ceived from their trail, that their enemies were but five 
or six in number, which induced them to continue in un- 
tiring pursuit for three days. The Sioux, in their flight, 
passed by the Punca village, simply because it was in 
their nearest direction home. The conscience-stricken 
Pawnees had, from the first, suspected them to be Puncas ; 
but on perceiving that the trail led directly to their vil- 
lage, doubt yielded to certainty in their minds, and they 
continued the pursuit — not to attack the Puncas, but in 
the hope, if failing to overtake the party, to cut off some 
straggler at a respectful distance from the village. Ac- 
cordingly, when arrived within two miles of it on the 
fourth day, they were delighted to discover two young 
Punca hunters ; they instantly engaged in hot pursuit. 
But the ground was much broken, and the young Puncas 
were determined that the reputation of their tribe for 
swiftness of foot, should not suffer on this occasion ; so 
they ran like heroes, for their lives were at stake. The 
Pawnees did not dream of their escaping ; nor did they, 
which was more important, perceive how near they were 
approaching the village, so warmly were their imagina- 



IN THE ARMY. 79 

tions engaged with the idea of the two scalps that were 
careering before them. But the Puncas did escape, and 
soon did they make it known ; for never, till then, was 
heaven's conclave saluted with such horrid discord. The 
braves all yelled like devils ; each squaw howled for ten, 
and wolf-dogs were ten to their one, and gave distinguished 
proof of the power of their lungs. The luckless urchin 
that disturbs a nest of hornets, is not more warmly as- 
sailed, or sooner put to his heels, than were the panic- 
struck Pawnees by this nest of fiery Puncas. Those that 
could not lay hands on horses, sallied forth scarce the less 
swiftly on foot. Away ! away, they went ! with what a 
sublime confusion of sound and motion ! a mighty chase, 
with life and death upon the issue ! On ! on they go ! 
now they dash into that bushy ravine, and how the awful 
din is mellowed. But the hill is gained, and they burst 
pell-mell into view with that astounding shout! Away ! 
away ! Now, Pawnee, do thy best ! Hear that cutting 
sound, that shrill war cry ! sweet music to the Punca ; to 
the Pawnee, the jarring signal of his doom. Six times 
was heard that well-known yell of Shu-da-gah-ha. He 
was avenged. Noble feats of horsemanship Avere that 
day performed by the best of riders ; feats which made 
one shudder to examine in cold blood. But most of the 
horses were run down and abandoned, and Punca and 
Pawnee ran on foot. The latter threw away their guns, 
and strewed the prairie with cumbrous finery ; and to this, 
many were indebted for their safety. The Puncas ceased 
to pursue at night, more than twenty miles from their vil- 
lage; they had taken eight scalps, and captured many 
horses and guns. 

Thus we see two tribes fairly in a war, originating in 



80 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

the indiscretion of Mah-za-pa-mee, which led to the mistake 
■which caused the war. 

But, to return to our heroine and the Pawnee village. 
In due time, the foremost of the scattered messengers of 
misfortune arrived : it was in the night. Fortunately, 
Mah-za-pa-mee had made a warm friend of an old squaw, 
"who hastened with the first news of the disaster, to warn 
her of her impending danger ; for then no one could 
doubt the fate that was in store for her ; she and her son 
"would be sacrificed to Pawnee revenge. The old woman 
furnished her with moccasins and smoked meat, and she 
immediately escaped from the village, alone and on foot ; 
and she took with her her son. 

This Avas late in June; and she determined "to strike" 
for the nearest waters of the L'eau-qui-court, hoping to 
meet her band, who usually followed up that river on the 
summer buffalo hunt. Her meat was soon gone, and roots 
were her sole resource ; and she was without any means 
of kindling a fire. Thus she journeyed, carrying on her 
back her child, now two years old, enduring the scorch- 
ing heat of the shadeless prairie by day, and chilled by 
its cold dews at night. Thus simply are the facts nar- 
rated. But who shall paint to the senses the full horror 
of her sufferings of mind and body ! 

She reached the L'eau-qui-court, and found that her 
entire tribe had passed many days before. Mah-za-pa- 
mee did not despair. She could not hope to overtake 
them ; but for days, she searched their trail and camps, 
endeavoring to find something left o^' "cached" that 
■would serve for food : but all failed. She then resolved 
to follow down the river, and, if able, to reach the village; 
she would find there green corn and pumpkins, always 
planted before the annual hunting migration. More than 



IN THE ARMY. 81 

a hundred miles were before her, starved and burdened as 
she was, wasted by the extremes of the weather, and ever 
assailed by that maddening pest, the musquito. But her 
life was prolonged by the small fish which she caught in 
shallow streams and pools, and they of course were eaten 
raw ! 

Late in August, Mah-za-pa-mee reached the vicinity of 
her village on the Missouri : and she found it — oh ! last 
stroke of unrelenting fate ! — occupied by hostile Indians, 
before whom the last vestiges of vegetation were fast dis- 
appearing. She hid herself, but yielded to despair. 

Mah-za-pa-mee and her son were discovered the next 
day by a white man of Mr. Lisa's company. He was of 
a small party that had been left in charge of a store- 
house, some distance below: provisions having become 
scarce, they had ascended the river to see if the Puncas 
had returned with a supply of meat. Their appearance 
when found, was described as emaciated, wretched, and 
even horrible. And, indeed, if there were room for it, 
who would not doubt the possibility of their surviving ? 

Under no other circumstances does poor human nature 
show so much its weakness, become so much degraded, as 
when assailed by starvation. Famine ! nought but thou 
canst reduce proud, gifted, noble man, to the level of the 
wretched beast. Thou shakest his reason from its 
pedestal ! Thou makest him yield all to revolting appe- 
tite ! But, no more. — Mah-za-pa-mee, well and hearty, 
would probably have terminated an existence then worth 
preserving, rather than meet her husband thus humbled, 
and a petitioner ; but now, suffering worse than death — 
the loathsome picture of famine — true to the singular 
nature of her species, clinging the more closely to life — 



82 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

she seeks to offer herself before her injured lord, for a 
mouthful of food. 

Mah-za-pa-mee at length rejoined her tribe, and sought 
to throw herself at the feet of her husband. Pity is allied 
to affection ; and much was she to be pitied : but chiefly 
was she to depend upon her child, that inseparable link of 
union, for forgiveness. It was that which succeeded : for 
surely the chief, Shu-da-gah-ha, did not believe her, that 
the Pawnee threw " squaw medicine" (love powder) on 
her; that " he bewitched her." She was forgiven, grew 
apace in flesh and favor, and has since been, as has her 
son, healthy and happy. 



CHAPTER XL 

One day, about the end of August, to our utter aston- 
ishment, we saw the approach of a white man, on foot, 
and in tattered garments, and so poor he seemed scarce 
able to walk. He was instantly surrounded by a crowd, 
and recognized to be Corporal Arter, whom we had left 
at Fort Leavenworth. The following is the substance of 
his story. He had been sent with another man, about two 
months before, well mounted, as an express, with some 
order for us from General L. After striking the Arkan- 
sas in safety, the}'' were one day suddenly surrounded by 
fifteen mounted Indians, armed with bow and spear ; they 
did not offer immediate violence, and the Corporal suc- 
ceeded in extricating himself and companion ; when the 
latter, in good feeling produced by their forbearance, re- 



IN THE ARMY. 83 

turned, in spite of the Corporal's remonstrance, if not 
orders, to give them some tobacco ; and while in this act, 
was wounded bj the thrust of a spear in his breast ; the 
Indians instantly scattered to avoid a shot from the Cor- 
poral, one of them dropping his bull-hide shield ; and the 
Corporal, at the expense of horses and baggage, rescued the 
wounded man, and judiciously reserving his fire, stood over 
him, keeping the Indians off for several hours, and receiv- 
ing a slight arrow wound in his wrist ; they seemed par- 
ticularly anxious to recover the shield, which he gallantly 
defended. After the Indians were gone, Arter helped 
the wounded man to the river, and constructed a rough 
shelter for him. He had lost his ammunition, and was 
compelled to sustain life by eating a part of a diseased 
ox we had left, and snakes, frogs, &c. Soon after his 
adventure, he left the wounded man, Nation, as well pro- 
vided for as possible, and followed our trail to the point 
of our crossing the river, and then gave it up for a time 
as hopeless, and returned to his charge. Afterwards he 
had heard, he thought, the sound of cannon, and soon 
after made this successful effort to find us. A command, 
with an ox-cart, was immediately sent after Nation ; they 
found him twelve or fifteen miles below, and brought him 
to camp that night ; but the poor fellow lingered some 
weeks, and then died. 

The 10th of October had been named by the traders, 
and agreed to by the commanding officer, as the very last 
day of our stay waiting for them. The time approached 
— the weather was growing cold. We had frosty morn- 
ings, and the summer clothing of the men was nearly worn 
out. The 10th came, and no caravan ; it was determined 
to wait 07ie day longer ; and accordingly, having waited 



84 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

during the lltb, the next morning, at sunrise, one gun 
was fired, and we turned our faces homewards. 

About 9 o'clock horsemen were seen following us at full 
speed ; the battalion was halted, and disposed for action, 
covering the baggage. As they approached in view of 
this preparation they drew rein, and the commanding 
officer and his staff advanced to parley, but soon dis- 
covered that they were white traders ; the caravan was a 
few miles beyond the river : our cannon shot had been 
heard, and these men sent on to overtake us. We pro- 
ceeded to the nearest fit camping ground, and established 
our camp. We learned that the caravan was accompanied 
by an escort of a company of regulars, and a body of 
Mexican militia, or Indians. Major R. had written to 
the chief of the province of Santa Fe, requesting this co- 
operation in the protection of a trade beneficial to both 
countries ; and Colonel Viscarro, Inspector-General of 
the Mexican army, happening to be there, had volun- 
teered to conduct a command accordingly. 

A day or two before, they had been visited by several 
hundreds of Ar-ra-pa-hoes and Camanches (our old 
friends), who were on foot, and seemed to be on a horse- 
stealing expedition. They pretended friendship, as the 
best way, doubtless, of effecting their purposes. A guarded 
intercourse took place, and Col. V. was warned by some of 
his Indians, and the traders, not to trust them : at last, as 
Col. V. was talking to their chief, the latter, being a few 
feet off, presented his gun and fired. One of the Colonel's 
Indians, who had been most suspicious, and stood by 
watching, with heroic devotion, sprang between, just in 
time to receive the ball through his own heart. He had 
a brother near by, who, as the Indian chief turned to fly, 
sprang upon him like a tigei', and buried his knife to the 



IN THE ARMY. 85 

hilt in his hack. Almost at the same instant another 
chief fell, by a shot from a trader, who had marked him 
in anticipation of the result. The Indians fled, and many 
of the Mexican militia and the traders pursued them on 
horseback. The ammunition of the Indians soon gave 
out, and their pursuers would overtake them in succession, 
dismount, fire, take the scalp — without being particular 
whether the man was dead or not — reload, and pursue 
again : several of the traders were mentioned as having: 
killed three or four in this manner — like turkey shooting 
— and perhaps nothing but nightfall saved the whole 
party from destruction. It was not ascertained that the 
Mexican regulars shed any blood on the occasion ; but on 
the other hand, we were assured that the cruelty and 
barbarity of some of the Americans disgusted even the 
Mexicans and Spaniards ; that they scalped one Indian 
at least, who had life enough left to contend against it, 
though without arms ; and they undoubtedly took the 
skin from some of the bodies, and stretched it on their 
wagons. I, myself, saw several scalps dangling as orna- 
ments to the bridle of a trader. 

Several of our officers returned with a trader to con- 
duct the caravan to our camp ; they arrived in the course 
of the day, and encamped near by. That evening Cap- 
tain W. invited Colonel Viscarro, Captain Obrazo, and 
another gentleman, secretary, and since Governor of 
Sante Fe, with whom he became acquainted before they 
arrived, to sup at our tent. I distinctly remember the 
feast we gave them. Seated cross-legged around a green 
blanket in the bottom of the tent; we partook of bread, 
buffalo meat, and, as an extraordinary rarity, some salt 
pork ; but to crown all, were several large raw onions, 
for which we were indebted to the arrival of our guests ; 

8 



80 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

a tin cup of whiskey, -which, like the pork, had been re- 
served for an unusual occasion, was passed round, followed 
hj another of water. 

Col. V. was a man of fine appearance, and of perfectly 
dignified and gentlemanly manners. His horsemanship 
— extraordinary for a Spaniard — had been witnessed that 
day by Captain W. : an immense drove of horses, &c., 
which they brought, was frightened, and disposed to run ; 
he rode at full speed to prevent it, and seemed in many 
places at once; stopping his horse, Avith the aid of the 
unmerciful Spanish bit, in full career, more suddenly 
than if shot, and throwing him on his haunches, he would 
whirl him around, and cause him to plant the fore foot, 
with equal speed, in an opposite direction. On the march 
he had pursued a noble wild horse, which baffled all 
others, and both being at utmost speed, had thrown his 
lazo, for a fore foot, and caught it ! Unfortunately the 
shock broke the poor animal's leg, when the Colonel drew 
an arrow, and shot him through the heart. 

The next day we had time to look about us, and ad- 
mire the strangest collection of men and animals that had 
perhaps ever met on a frontier of the United States. 
There were a few Creoles — polished gentlemen, magni- 
ficently clothed in Spanish costume ; a large number of 
grave Spaniards, exiled from Mexico, and on their way 
to the United States, with much property in stock and 
gold — their whole equipage Spanish ; there was a com- 
pany of Mexican Regulars, as they were called, in uni- 
form, — mere apologies for soldiers, or even men ; several 
tribes of Indians, or Mexicans, much more formidable 
as warriors, were grouped about with their horses, and 
spears planted in the ground ; Frenchmen were there of 
course ; and our 180 hardy veterans in rags, but well 



IN THE ARMY. 87 

armed and equipped for any service : four or five lan- 
guages were spoken ; but to complete the picture, must 
be mentioned the 2000 horses, mules, jacks, which kept 
up an incessant braying. The Spaniards and their at- 
tendants were in motion, throwing the lazo, catching wild 
mules; and others dashed oflf after buffalo, which seemed 
disposed to send representatives to this Congress of the men 
and animals of two nations. I remember, too, that some 
Camanche dogs came over the hills into camp, from a 
direction opposite to that of the march of the Mexicans ; 
but this strange circumstance was hardly noticed, though 
I did hear some one ask, " Where the d — 1 did those wild 
geese come from ?" as a pair of them were seen dodging 
about. 

The battalion was reviewed and drilled for the edifica- 
tion of the Mexican officers ; and then a company of light 
infantry at the old tactics (which being admirably suit- 
able, and truly American, has been dropped). After- 
wards we visited the Mexican camp, when their motley 
force was drawn up : to judge from the appearance of 
their arms, &c., a volley from the regular company, at 
fifty paces, would have proved of small consideration. 
After their dismissal, we fell in with a group who were 
singing, and introduced, in some way to their conclusion, 
the name of George Washington ; whereupon one of 
them advanced, hat in hand, for a collection. Their offi- 
cers were much mortified, and kicked him off; while we 
considered it laughable to be thus called upon, in con- 
sideration that a single piece of money was unknown in 
our camp, where the very existence of " a circulating 
medium" had been so long useless as to be almost for- 
gotten. 

I saw a characteristic exploit of one of the southern 



88 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

mongrels — a camp follower. He rode a blindfolded, un- 
bridled donkey in pursuit of a buffalo, at which he con- 
tinued to snap an antique firepiece, until it was almost 
out of sight. 

We all dined, by invitation, with Colonel V. and his 
officers ; his tent was very large and comfortable, oval 
in shape, and quite roomy. We sat down, about sixteen, 
to a low table, all the furniture of which was silver ; which, 
however, we scarcely noticed, in view of their inviting 
contents, among which was fried ham. This course was 
followed by another of various kinds of cakes, and delight- 
ful chocolate ; and there were several kinds of Mexican 
wines. All had been brought, no doubt, for the occasion, 
direct from Santa Fe. 

In the dusk of evening, a large group of the Mexican 
Indians came into camp, bearing aloft on spears the 
scalps which they had lately taken, and singing Indian 
songs ; dark figures, with matted hair streaming over 
their shoulders, uttering the wild notes of their deep-toned 
choruses, they resembled demons rather than men. Sud- 
denly one would enter the circle, and indulge in an ex- 
travagrant display of grief, beating his forehead and 
breast, and howling like a famished wolf ; and then dash- 
ing the scalps to the ground, stamp on them, and fire his 
gun at them. After this propitiatory lament to the manes 
of a departed friend, or relation, he would burst forth, 
with the others, into the wildest and most unearthly song 
of triumph and exultation. 

The Indian who had lost, and avenged his brother, as 
related, had been in camp in the day ; he was a fine fel- 
low, and seemed inconsolable. He made us speeches, 
unintelligible of course ; but expanding his bare chest, 
and striking it forcibly with his palm, he would end them 
by exclaiming, "Me die for the Americans." 



IN THE ARMY. 89 



CHAPTER XII. 



On the 14 th of October, having relieved the Mexicans 
of their charge, we took a very friendly parting, and 
again marched early on our return. Soon after, we saw 
smokes arise over the distant hills ; evidently signals, in- 
dicating to different parties of Indians our separation and 
march. Of what purport, Avhether preparatory to an 
attack upon the Mexicans, or ourselves, or rather our im- 
mense drove of animals, we could only guess. 

The passage over prairies with horses or cattle, while 
it is free from all money expense for forage, is attended 
with the trouble, risk, and delays of grazing. There is 
always danger of horses straying off, being frightened by 
accident, or driven by an enemy. To provide against 
trouble and danger in our case, with our few cattle, a 
plan of camp for the return march was adopted, which 
inclosed them in a space large enough for grazing. The 
tents of three companies were pitched in single lines 
around three sides of a square, the parallel sides of which 
were equally extended by two rows of wagons, while the 
fourth company, on guard, completed the parallelogram. 
For these places of camp, and many other benefits, we 
conceived ourselves indebted to our Adjutant, the lamented 
J. F. Izard, who fell gallantly in Florida. As an humble 
tribute to the memory of so brave, so talented, so accom- 
plished a soldier, I can truly say, that, on this expedition, 
he was never known to fail in the zealous, thorough, and 
exemplary performance of any single point, important or 
minute, of any duty that could possibly be construed to 
be his ; besides frequently volunteering to perform the 

8* 



90 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 

arduous details of others. He is gone — but has left us 
the bright example of his life and his death. 

Unhappy Florida ! Thy soil has drunk the heart's 
blood of the army ! Thou hast robbed her and the 
country of Izard, and Lane, and Brooke, and a host 
of other brave spirits, whose loss is irreparable. 

Our march was constantly attended by immense collec- 
tions of buffalo, which seemed to have a general muster, 
perhaps for migration. We found them much further 
eastward than we had met them. Sometimes a hundred 
or two — a fragment from the immense multitude — would 
approach within two or three hundred yards of the co- 
lumn, and threaten a charge, which at best would have 
proved disastrous to the mule-drivers and their charge. 
Mounted flanking parties of traders were then kept out. 

The weather was very cold, and we had generally black 
frosts. One day it snowed a little, and seventy mules 
were abandoned and left, being overcome by fatigue and 
cold. It must not be supposed that the prairi(!-grass was 
now fit for grazing ; on the contrary, so dry and rigid 
had it become, that it wore the feet of unshod animals 
until they bled ; and we had to make buifalo-hide shoes, 
or rather moccasins, for many of the oxen ; but in the 
river and creek bottoms, particularly where there was 
timber, or where they had been burned early in summer 
(which can always be done when they escape the previous 
winter), we always found green and tender grazing, suf- 
ficient for our wants. 

It is surprising in what fine training our campaign had 
put us all (to say nothing of our fine health ; and, among 
the men — unable to commit excesses — not a case of sick- 
ness had occurred). One day an immense gray wolf had 
the audacity to trot through the lines of wagons, and I 



IN THE ARMY. 01 

set off afoot in pursuit, regardless of the laughter of my 
companions, who derided the idea of outrunning a wolf. 
I nevertheless did overtake him, and brought him to bay, 
when he jumped and snapped at me, with a disagreeable 
clatter of tusks. I was only armed with a pistol, and 
unluckily, owing to a very high wind, it snapped repeat- 
edly, and I left the gentleman to take his course ; but, in 
returning, I saw a camp-follower take my place, with a 
rusty sword, with which he attacked him. The wolf 
rushed at him, and received several blows over the head ; 
when making a motion to turn tail, his antagonist as 
gladly seized the opportunity of doing likewise, and they 
exhibited the extraordinary and laughable spectacle of 
enemies running away from each other with all speed, at 
the same moment. 

After passing 110-Mile Creek, we marched twenty-five 
miles without water, and then found the little branch, on 
which we depended, to be dry. A hole, filled with water, 
was however discovered six or eight hundred yards to the 
left ; but for some unaccountable cause we Avere marched 
near two miles further, and encamped where the country 
was as dry as tinder ; and, in fact, we were threatened 
with fire ; — a long line of it, extending across the immense 
prairie, was gradually approaching. I was ordered, with 
some fifty men, to secure the camp, by burning round it, 
when a wild fellow, with a blazing brand, ran along firing 
so much at once that the matter was like to be made 
worse ; it rapidly approached in a great sheet of flame 
to the ammunition wagon, and would have swept the 
camp but for the greatest exertions, to which I set the 
example, in the sacrifice of a cloak, and some damage to 
whiskers and eyebrows. 

To my astonishment, my mess was that night supplied 



92 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

"witli a keg of water, for which two of my men had gone, 
unasked, near two miles. But about midnight it com- 
menced raining hard and steadily, and it continued for 
eighteen hours ; and, but for this, it seemed impossible 
that the cattle could have got on ; they were few in num- 
ber, and had suffered much before, and, indeed, the men 
were required to assist in pulling the empty wagons for 
several days' march. The piece of artillery which had 
been pulled out in fine style by six mules, came back 
with a yoke of oxen. 

The next day we marched twenty-five or thirty miles 
through a hard rain ; and, bearing off to the left, struck 
a bold creek and encamped. 

In our long absence from the world, and with so little 
occupation for the mind, it seemed that our imaginations 
had become disordered, and we had lost the power of 
forming a just estimate of the most familiar objects. I 
saw a group of officers examining, with seeming admira- 
tion, a brass-mounted rifle which they found in the hands 
of an Indian hunter ; and when the friends of the traders 
met them with fresh horses from the settlements, I 
thought them, at a little distance, splendid stallions, 
when they were, in reality, work mares, though in fine 
order. Such questions as, " Is the President dead ?" 
were asked of these men. 

The day after the hard march mentioned above, I 
walked twelve miles in three hours, without the slightest 
fatigue. We returned by the Agency on the Kansas ; 
and the log-houses there, were the first habitations of 
men we had seen for five months. 

Under the friendly cover of the shades of evening, on 
the 8th of November, our tatterdemalion veterans marched 
into Fort Leavenworth, and took quiet possession of the 



IN THE ARMY. 93 

miserable huts and sheds left by the 3d infantry the pre- 
ceding May. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Fort Leavenworth was re-occupied by our battalion ; 
a " fort" by courtesy, or rather by order ; it was in 
reality but a straggling cantonment, but on an admirable 
site. The Missouri, in an abrupt bend, rushes with won- 
drous swiftness against a rock-bound shore ; from this the 
ground rises with a bold sweep to a hundred feet or more, 
then sloping gently into a shallow vale, it rises equally 
again, and thus are formed a number of hills, which are 
to the north connected by a surface but slightly bent, to 
which the vale insensibly ascends ; every line of every 
surface is curved with symmetry and beauty. On these 
hill-tops, shaded by forest trees, stands Fort Leaven- 
worth. On the one hand is to be seen the mighty river, 
winding in the distance through majestic forests and by 
massive bluffs, stretching away till mellowed to aerial 
blue ; on the other, rolling prairies, dotted with groves, 
and bounded on the west by a bold grassy ridge ; this, 
inclosing in an elliptical sweep a beautiful amphitheatre, 
terminates five miles southward in a knob, leaving be- 
tween it and the river a view of the prairie lost in a dim 
and vague outline. How feeble are words ! how inade- 
quate to give a general idea, much more to paint this 
rare scenery, where grandeur is softened by beauty, and 
the beautiful enhanced and dignified by a magnificent 
outline. 

Blessed with an harmonious and congenial though small 



94 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

society, the clays, the months, flew by. Our duties per- 
formed, and studious improvement not neglected, the 
pleasures of female society gave the greater zest to diver- 
sions and exercises. Often the whole of us, in a party, 
would canter for miles through prairie and grove, and 
spend the day on the shady banks of a pretty stream ; 
there, where the world had never made its mark — forget- 
ful of its very existence — we gave our whole hearts to 
sylvan sports, to feast and merriment, to happiness. A 
week seldom passed without dancing parties, to which 
rare beauty and fine music lent their attractions. Senti- 
nels on a distant frontier, ever ready to throw ourselves 
in the face of savage enemies, though severed from the 
world with its selfish jarring interests, its contentions and 
tortuous intrigues, its eternal struggle for dollars, we con- 
tinued, amid our books and social pleasures, with hunting 
and the chase, to pass happy years. We always enjoyed 
the contemplation of Nature in her untamed beauty, fresh 
as from the hands of the Creator. The greatest danger 
of our situation was that lethargy and rust of mind, so 
naturally induced where no exciting motive, no 7iecessity, 
urges on to the labor of exertion. It is not in human 
nature, in such passive circumstances, long to escape their 
impression. But some of us strove hard to improve those 
faculties which an unhappy world would not always, as 
then, suffer to slumber. 

But we were not without our visitors from the world, 
who sufficiently refreshed our conceptions of its existence 
and nature ; nor, from the regions of our far West, the 
then accomplished officers of the Indian Department, from 
agencies between us and the Rocky Mountains, and some 
members of the Fur Company, fresh from natural scenes, 
and full of racy anecdote of adventure ; they were fre- 



IN THE ARMY. 95 

quently an enlivening addition to our small society. The 
memories of these years come back as in moments of 
tranquil enjoyment some happy dream steals on our rapt 
senses — a past too kindly for reality — gilded by loving 
thought. 

In the summer of 1831, wishing to extend my know- 
ledge of the country, and weary of inactivity, I obtained 
leave of absence, in order to accompany an officer of the 
Indian Department on an official visit to the villages of 
the Otto and Omahaw Indians, and the Old Council 
Bluff in their vicinity. We took with us a French ser- 
vant, or engage, named Godfrey, and had a pack-horse, 
which carried a tent and provisions. Our route was to 
be by the south side of the Missouri. 

The first day we rode but a few miles, our hired man 
being very drunk, as is usual with these fellows on such 
occasions, when their services are most needed. He fell 
from his horse on some tin-cups, and mashed them nearly 
fiat ; and I discovered with some surprise that they could 
not be restored to any approximation of their original 
shape. The pack-horse, at the camp-ground, turned his 
pack, and succeeded in kicking a small bag of crackers 
very nearly to the original state of flour. A good start 
is worth a day's journey. 

Next day we got along more comfortably. Our course 
lay altogether over prairies, but in view generally of the 
timber of the river, and always of some small tributary. 
This night we encamped on one of the miry creeks, very 
difficult to cross, which here abound, indicating a country 
as rich as it is beautiful. This was about fifty-six miles 
above Fort Leavenworth. 

Tuesday, June 14th. We got over the boggy stream 
by 6 o'clock ; after riding about twelve miles over rolling 



96 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

prairie, we suddenly beheld before us the beautiful valley 
of the Grand Nemehaw ; far below us stretched out, a 
mile and a half in width, the level prairie bottom, studded 
with numberless flowers of every brilliant color ; the 
margin of the river was fringed and relieved by stately 
trees ; five elks, disturbed by our approach, slowly gal- 
loped away along the hillside. But our attention was 
withdrawn from this beautiful scene ; for, rather suddenly, 
half of the heavens were obscured by an immense black 
cloud ; reaching from the horizon on either side, it cul- 
minated dark as night. All thoughts were turned to 
securing ourselves from the storm, and, placing the river 
behind us ; we hastened on, and fortunately struck its 
bank where a large tree had been felled across. Remov- 
ing our saddles and pack we carried them over ; Godfrey 
swam his horse across, the others following. We mounted 
to seek drier ground, and about half a mile above en- 
camped on a small prairie : we were near the edge of the 
bank ; along and below it grew scattered trees, enough 
to conceal the course of the river, which made a bend 
above; the "bluff," or prairie hill opposite us, was half 
a mile distant. By the time the tent was pitched and 
the horses hobbled, the storm broke over us with an awful 
crash of thunder and lightning, which seemed close above 
and around us. It rained in showers from midday until 
dark — then it wonderfully increased ; for hours it fell as 
violently as I had ever seen before in storms at the 
moment of greatest force. 

We remained sitting up in the tent, our provisions, &c., 
raised on the saddles, and covered with blankets ; our 
candle was put out by the rain about nine o'clock. Near 
eleven we determined to lie down, though the ground 
was thoroughly soaked, and we were wet to the skin. In 



IN THE A KM Y. 97 

about an hour the rain began to fall more steadily and 
moderately, and I fell asleep. 

About three o'clock I was aroused, and found myself 
lying in water. A conviction that we were flooded was 
soon forced upon our minds, for the water rapidly in- 
creased in depth. The darkness was palpable. We were 
overwhelmed with astonishment that the river could in 
that time overflow its banks, and attached an importance 
to our awful situation which those who must see us alive 
and well can never appreciate. Various plans of escape 
or safety were now proposed. Godfrey thought we would 
have to take a tree, and " live on one of the horses." 
Fortunately daylight began to dawn, when we discovered 
our horses close by, trembling with fear. The water was 
now near knee deep, though not over the grass. I ob- 
served a remarkable bank of fog, I thought, along the 
foot of the hills. We had to fish for our bridles, &c., at 
arm's length in the water. The white fog sensibly ap- 
proached, and we discovered it was water — the river in a 
new channel ! Our preparations were hurried — the tent 
was left standing — I abandoned a blanket. Mr. B. was 
at length mounted, and tried the depth of water in several 
directions. I proposed to follow up the margin of the 
bank, knowing it was there the shallowest. I mounted 
my trembling horse, when he mired, plunged, and seemed 
incapable of exertion. I got oif, and left him loose to 
follow. The Avater was half-thigh deep ; I became much 
exhausted, and stopped and pulled off" my woollen panta- 
loons, and threw them over my shoulder ; my companions 
had stuck to their horses, and were far ahead ; I feared 
to step over the bank and be swept off". At the bend I 
discovered the bluff", three hundred yards off". It was 
now quite light ; I made for the hill through a swift cur- 



98 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

rent above mj waist, and at length reaching the new 
shore, oflFered up my thanks. 

I threw myself on the ground, and was soon pleased 
and surprised to see the approach of our pack-horse, 
which Godfrey had left to take care of himself. I 
stopped him, and finding a bottle of brandy had been 
saved, took a hearty drink. 

On the hill-top we made a fire, and unpacked every- 
thing to dry. The cries of drowning fawns were heard 
the whole forenoon, and many deer swam out in our 
neighborhood. The river had risen now about twenty 
feet perpendicular : perhaps four of which, on an ave- 
rage, was over an expanse of two miles. I believe it 
bad not rained over any part of its course earlier than at 
this point. 

June ir)th. After having dried our clothing, &c., and 
recovered the tent, about mid-day, we Avere mounted, and 
rode some ten miles west, endeavoring to " head" a 
little stream, emptying into the Nemehaw just below the 
camp; which, though now impassable, and three hundred 
yards wide, might the morning before have been almost 
stepped across. The country presents a uniform succes- 
sion of prairie hills, jutting out from the more elevated 
ridges toward the larger creeks. On arriving at the top 
of one of them, we saw some hundred yards distant two 
deer. I instantly dismounted, fired my rifle, and one of 
them fell dead : it was a doe ; its companion, a buck, 
stood gazing at us for some minutes, while Godfrey, slowly 
dismounting, aimed and fired ; it then moved slowly off, 
untouched. I was Avell pleased, admiring the apparent 
chivalry of the poor animal, deliberately standing fire 
over the body of his unfortunate mate. 

June 16th. A few miles took us around the fountain- 



IN THE ARMY. 99 

head of the small stream, and after passing a very high 
prairie, the dividing ridge between the two Nemehaws, 
and two very boggy branches, at ten o'clock we struck 
their main creek, which presented a very formidable 
aspect ; the bottom, a half-mile wide, was flooded, two 
feet deep ; we rode through to its bank, and found it evi- 
dently impassable, there being no timber — retraced our 
steps, went on a half mile, waded again to its bank, felled 
a tree across, led in a horse, Avhich, swimming to the oppo- 
site bank, endeavored in vain to mount it. Notwithstand- 
ing our assistance, the poor animal remained in the water 
for hours, whilst we all, standing in the mire, worked 
hard to get it over, hoping to save its life ; at last we 
tried the same side it had entered, which was apparently, 
that is, above water, much the most difficult, and suc- 
ceeded in helping it out. We then once more returned 
to the hill, and encamped near by. I began to think it 
an exceedingly unpleasant pleasure trip, but consoled 
myself with shooting a curlew, sixty yards, off hand, with 
a rifle ball ; its bill was more than four inches long^ and 
of the size of a rye straw. 

17th. Passed three hours in making a third and suc- 
cessful attempt to cross this vile stream at a new place. 
"Went E. of N., and soon came in sight of the Little 
Nemehaw River, which in its scenery most strikingly re- 
sembles its " Grand" namesake, though we thought, after 
wading our horses for a mile through its rich bottom, that 
it was a " little" larger. 

This is a beautiful country between the Nemehaws, 
about twenty-five miles over ; a strip of it, ten miles wide, 
along the Missouri, has been appropriated as a reserve 
for the Otto and Omahaw half-breeds. 

In two hours we had crossed this stream, in the same 



100 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

manner as the other, and were in motion to the N. W. on 
a fine prairie ridge, and did not reach " Avood and water," 
a suitable camping-ground, until nine o'clock at night. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

18th. Proceeded early a little N. of west, crossing 
an endless succession of prairie hills, between which were 
generally gutters filled with clear water, with vertical 
sides, and so deep that the horses had to leap them. 
After two hours' rest at noon, we ascended the "divide" 
between the waters of the Nemehaws (or Missouri) -and 
the Great Platte River. This, the highest ground be- 
tween two mighty rivers, is an immense prairie of table 
land, impressing the senses with the idea of an elevation 
far greater perhaps than the reality, owing to the extra- 
ordinary circumstance of there being no higher object 
visible — no distant mountain, hill, or inequality, not even 
a tree, to restore by comparison a juster estimate. I was 
thus, for the first time, out of sight of woods ; far away, in 
every direction, not even a shrub was to be seen — a green 
sea waving in the breeze ! An American poet, gaining 
here a new idea, might add a line to these of Byron : 

"There is a pleasure in the pathless woods; 
There is a rapture on the lonely shore; 
There is society where none intrudes 
By the deep sea." 

Verily I then felt 

" I love not man the less, but Nature more 
In this my interview.'" 



IN THE ARMY. 101 

A thousand unuttered thoughts filled my mind ; I almost 
fancied I could hear the music of the spheres, of which 
old Spenser must have been thinking when he wrote, 

"A solemn silence first invades the ear." 

It was a vast solitude ; but, in my excitement, I found 
in truth "society" enough. Then, how easy for the 
mind to restore the scene so lately passed, though gone 
forever ; and though dwelling upon the unhappy fate 
of the fallen race, to people it anew with those bold 
hunters of the plains. Amid the traces of reality — the 
bleached bones around me — my mind was filled with 
images of the Indian and his occupation : war and the 
chase. A short thirty years ago, and from this spot 
thousands of buffalo might have been seen, and the wild 
red man rejoicing in the pursuit, the slaughter, and the 
feast. The uncontrolled, the untrammelled, the free — 
free and happy, as God created them, ere they were 
robbed, enslaved, poisoned, withered by the pestilence. 
Alas ! for the gift of civilization. The "long-knife" came, 
and brought with him the "fire-water" and the small-pox, 
and completed his work with paper treaties, construed 
and explained under the gentle auspices of the sword. 

But lo ! the alarm ! A tribe is roused to arms ! As 
the sun arose, a bold and bloody deed had been done. A 
whole tribe and their enemies ! A thousand wild horse- 
men rush in pursuit, mile after mile — a long, a wonderful 
chase, all in sight, over the level prairie — thundering on, 
the heavens rent with yells, quavering in a thousand 
throats, the appalling cry for the vengeance of blood. 
'Tis scarcely fancy — I have seen those who have witnessed 
such a sight. 

9* 



102 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

But the Indian was gone — the buflfalo was nowhere to be 
found ; — there seems a sympathy between them, and the 
poor animal flies not from the Indian as from the white ; 
their fates are alike : the buffalo has receded about ten 
miles annually for 150 years, and we find them together, 
lingering on the barren verge of the great valley. A 
short tarrying place was the Father of Waters, the dark 
flood of the Mississippi, fit boundary to the mighty empire, 
the vast, the beautiful regions to its east ; a limit which 
an Alexander had scarce wept to cross. But our grasp- 
ing, restless borderers, o'erleapt it at once, wandering ever 
onward through a wilderness of unappropriated riches. 
And I, too, a pioneer, was I not here, in this aAvful though 
beautiful plain, full 500 miles beyond, on the verge of 
the great American Desert, which caravans of weary 
pilgrims will soon penetrate, defying its thirsty poverty, 
and the arms of its poor nomad tribes — battling feebly 
to the last, for their starving inheritance — scaling the 
precipices and eternal snows of the Rocky Mountains, to 
seek new homes in that weeping climate of the Columbia 
and the Pacific, deprived of every vestige of the comforts 
of civilization — that civilization which understanding not, 
and sharing not, they will forswear, and abandon forever. 

As these thoughts passed through my mind, a dark 
thundercloud had slowly arisen in advance of us, and 
approaching nearer and nearer, had assumed palpably 
the appearance of a vast spread eagle, perfect in shape, 
save the head, which seemed averted and hid behind a 
bank of cloud. We could but look and wonder in silence, 
till the imminent approach of the storm banished all 
thoughts of eagle, Indian, bufl"alo, or squatter, and making 
an anxious survey, I beheld far away a solitary oak, 
which, experience had taught me to believe, stood sentinel- 



IN THE ARMY. 103 

like, the guardian, or rather offspring, of a fountain. 
Patiently we rode toward it, and our faith was rewarded, 
for such was found to be the case. We prepared our 
night camp in time to escape the worst of a drenching 
shower. 

June 19. Pursued a W. N. W. course, and in a few 
hours came in sight of the Great Platte River, and made 
a halt at the Little Saline ; it is twenty yards wide — a 
shallow stream, running swiftly over a rocky bottom: the 
water is brackish. We remounted at twelve o'clock, and 
following up the course of the river, passed over a low, 
sandy, sterile district. There were many trails leading 
to the Otto villages. The Indians, moving like the 
buffaloes, in single file, make, like them, deep paths. We 
passed, in succession, the " Old Village" and the "Lower 
Village," oppressed by heat and thirst, and somewhat 
sorrowful that all signs, or absence of signs, indicated 
that the Indians had all gone on the summer hunt. At 
sunset we reached the Upper Village, which, accordingly, 
we found utterly deserted. 

Finding nothing but stagnant water, and hoping to do 
justice to an intolerable thirst, I seized a bucket, de- 
scended a lofty and very precipitous bluff on which the 
village stands, crossed the flat meadow bottom (having 
been deceived by appearances as to the distance of the 
river, which was in reality half a mile), and at last found 
that the water was exceedingly muddy and quite warm. 
It was now growing dark, and I turned back over the 
wild flats, in the midst of a thunderstorm. Gusts of 
rain and wind rendered my steps unsteady — the lightning's 
glare, revealing in the tall rustling grass the many pools 
of water, seemed actually to play around the bright 
bucket which I held in my hand. I found my party 
had selected qaaiters in li "'h/dgc." 



104 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

These dwellings of the Indian are more comfortable 
than the common houses in the frontier States. Around 
a circular excavation about three feet deep, and forty in 
diameter, a conical edifice of poles rests upon a strong 
framework ; this is covered three or four feet thick with 
wattled bushes, &c., and earth — leaving at the apex 
about twenty-five feet from the floor, a small opening for 
light and the escape of smoke ; in the centre of the hard 
dirt floor the fire is made ; a stout stick is planted, with 
an inclination over it, to hold the kettle ; around the 
wall are very comfortable berths, rendered more or less 
private by matting screens; there is but one entrance, 
through a rather low-pitched passage. Cool in summer, 
and warm in winter, they are never troubled with smoke. 
Many are much larger, but this is the usual size, in Avhich 
several families live. The village consists of about fifty 
of these lodges ; close by are pens of wattled canes, for 
the security of horses by night. There are fifty or sixty 
acres in corn on the flat below, with the slightest attempt 
at fencing, but distinctly divided, where it is not in 
patches. 

June 20th. I was awoke last night by the thunder re- 
verberating around my subterranean abode, and beheld 
the lightnings seeming to play around a hole in the sky 
of utter darkness ; between asleep and awake, my sensa- 
tions were the more strange and pleasing, as I could not 
realize my unwonted situation. 

Finding the river too high to cross, we concluded to 
send Godfrey to a trading-house, thirty miles above, on 
the Missouri, for assistance. So we set to work to make 
a small raft of the logs we could find. He seated him- 
self, paddle in hand, astraddle on one end, near waist 
deep in water, but with some articles dry on the " bow\" 



IN THE AKMY. 105 

We lost sight of him near the other bank, and a mile 
lower down. 

This is the largest tributary of the Missouri, and, like 
all other rivers entering it (or the Lower Mississippi) from 
the S.W., is turbid. All those from the other side are 
clear ; and this extraordinary rule holds with respect to 
the tributaries of the Arkansas and Red Rivers. The 
Platte, in most of its course, has a perfectly level bottom, 
without timber, and from two to twelve miles broad. 
Rising at the base of the Rocky Mountains, near the 
source of the Arkansas, the waters of the two springs 
mingle, after flowing in a devious circuit of 4000 miles. 

The scene in the village to-night is imposing. The 
stars shine brightly — it is a perfect calm ; the crescent 
throws a doubtful shadow^ I wander among the earth 
mounds, more like ancient tombs than the abodes of man ; 
far below, the swollen and mighty river, "dark heaving," 
sounds a melancholy and awful monotone ; the poetical 
whip-poor-will alone breaks the dead oppressive silence 
with the music of a living sound. Far in the wilderness, 
we feel doubly alone amid these deserted dwellings of 
man. 

June 21. At 4 p.m. three horsemen appeared to our 
anxious eyes beyond the river ; it was Godfrey with aid, 
and we were directed to the village, three miles below. 
He got over late and with much difficulty, bringing with 
him a half-breed and the old Frenchman, Barada, the 
semi-amphibious, universal interpreter, and father of forty 
children. 

June 22. About sunrise, in a cold drizzle, we were on 
the river-bank, looking on with some curiosity at the 
doings of our savage friends. Two elk skins united were 
gathered round the edge, and distended with willow 



106 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

houghs ; then called a boueo, it was ready for the launch ; 
but that a Frenchman seems to make it a rule, if he find 
no holes, to punch some through and then tie them up. 
Dressed in woollen, and a blanket thrown around me, I 
shivered as I looked on, and then most reluctantly strip- 
ped myself — save a cloth vest — to take my place in this 
strange and dangerous aquatic experiment. In the bouco 
was placed all the baggage, and Mr. B. Godfrey took 
charge of the horses. Half swimming and half wading 
in quicksands, the two others, rope in mouth, took this 
leather tub in tow, while I steadied it behind. The river 
is half a mile wide in a direct line ; we had chosen a 
point where there was an island in the midst. We 
reached it in safety ; but I was almost convulsed with 
cold, and nearly speechless. I wrapped myself up on the 
sand in two blankets, and in twenty minutes was much 
recovered. The men had fashioned the butts of two green 
willows into the semblance of paddles, when Mr. B. and 
myself both entered the bouco — the stout Maugrain lead- 
ing, old Barada behind. This side was worse ; the water 
ran in great waves. We paddled with all our strength. 
At last Maugrain faltered, and would have sunk us, but 
fortunately he found himself in depth. With a brave 
heart he put out his utmost powers, and reached the bank, 
silent, but evidently much overcome. The paddling had 
quite restored my circulation. 

After a short breathing-time, our horses being saddled, 
we left the banks of the Platte ; crossing the level 
prairie bottom, without other adventure than miring 
a horse, we approached the Elkhorn, six miles dis- 
tant. This, like the stream of the same name in Ken- 
tucky, is a beautiful one ; it is about fifty feet wide, of a 
sandy bottom, limpid and deep waters. After taking 



IN THE ARMY. 107 

here a cup of hot coffee, we pursued our ride, and eight 
miles brought us to the Papillon, a small and muddy 
stream mouthing in the Missouri ; the Elkhorn empties 
into the Platte from the left, so here is a remarkable in- 
stance of the extraordinary rule applying to the Western 
waters before mentioned. 

On approaching the Missouri, the country assumes ap- 
pearances of more variety and interest than the prairie, 
distant from water-courses, where there is great uni- 
formity ; here are to be seen abrupt hills, partially 
covered with trees, and nearer the river on either side, 
conical in shape, with jutting rocks. Having ridden 
twenty-five miles in an E.N.E. direction, we arrived this 
afternoon at Cabanne's trading-house, which is a few 
miles below old Fort Atkinson, on " Council Bluff," and 
were delighted in having accomplished the last of our 
difficulties — which had their origin and aggravation in 
cold rains. 

June 23. The Missoui*i having risen three feet last 
night, there is a probability of the Fur Company's steam- 
boat. Yellow Stone, getting down from above ; where, 
having been long detained by low water, preparations have 
been made for passing the year. 

The Ottos had left their village ten days ; they fear 
the small-pox, which is here reported to be at Liberty, 
Missouri. Four or five hundred of the Pawnees have died 
of the influenza, which has passed through this region as 
an epidemic. Winter, spring, and summer, the weather 
is very damp and cold. 

An old acquaintance, a resident of the country, arriv- 
ing to-day, we rode together to view the localities and 
ruins of Fort Atkinson. We found but melancholy 
memorials of the long occupation of the post by the gal- 



108 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

lant, the "marching 6th ;" soon the luxuriant blue grass, 
will alone remind the Avandering traveller of the former 
existence of this post, " renowned in stories." 

After remaining in this vicinity a few days, we pro- 
cured a canoe — rather out of sorts — of which the rising 
waters had deprived some owner above ; and sending 
back the horses by an Indian, embarked on our return, 
still with Godfrey for our only assistant. The only store 
of meat which we took for a descending voyage of about 
300 miles, was five pounds of salted pork. 

In a few hours we passed the spot where the Great 
Platte impetuously discharges itself by several channels 
right across the current of the Missouri, thus causing a 
turmoil amid the waters rather dangerous to our primitive 
navigation. A change is here observed in the river 
scenery, and a great improvement : it now resembles that 
of the Ohio, or Upper Mississippi ; and it is remarkable 
that the bluffs rise from the river only on the right bank, 
for 200 miles below this point ; they are here crowned 
with forests. On the north side is a wonderful bottom, 
perfectly level, and averaging about three miles in width ; 
about half a mile of this, nearest the river, is almost in- 
variably a lofty forest, — beyond, a beautiful savanna. 
About 400 square miles of exceedingly rich and beautiful, 
level, and well-watered ground in a body ! — Thirty-five 
miles lower, we passed the mouth of the Riviere de Table, 
running from the south ; five miles lower, there is a re- 
markable pass, where a bluff of vertical rock projects into 
the river, where it is not above 150 yards wide. We 
encamped near sunset, having run eighty miles (by French 
count, thirty-two leagues) in eleven and a half hours, with 
but one paddle, and stopping to kill a deer. 

The next day we passed the mouth of the Little Neme- 



IN THE ARMY. 109 

haw, just below wliicli is apparently a fine place for build- 
ing — a bluff handsomely sloped, and sufficient timber ; 
and, it is said, a vein of stone-coal close at hand. About 
three miles lower is the most beautiful spot I have seen 
on the river. Not far from here, as Godfrey relates, the 
Ottos last winter killed forty elks in deep snow with their 
tomahawks. 

Finding a deer in the river, this forenoon, we gave 
chase ; it was nearly a mile below, but the poor animal, 
alarmed at our rapid approach, became confused, and re- 
peatedly changed its course ; all paddling our best, the 
canoe shot like an arrow ; we got within twenty feet, 
when ray rifle, for the first time, missed fire. I then tried 
a shot-gun with no better luck. Godfrey's rifle also 
missed ; the deer was close to land, when at another trial 
Godfrey's gun went off, and deer too ; but poor fellow, with 
a ball through his neck. The deer are driven to the bars 
by musquitoes by the score ; we have only to give the 
canoe a good direction, partially conceal our bodies, and 
sufler it to float, to get within a few feet of them ; in this 
manner we killed to-day a fat doe. 

The third evening we arrived safely at Cantonment 
Leavenworth. 



CHAPTER XV. 

We were often visited by deputations and treaty-parties 
of the many wilder tribes of Indians, varying as much 
in dress and personal appearance as in character and pur- 
suits. The celebrated Shawnee Prophet was once or 
twice at the post, and I have heard him speak in council ; 
he was an old man, but little distinguished in appearance. 

10 



110 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

One hundred Pawnees paid us a visit, on business with 
their agent ; Capot Bleu was at their head, a chief re- 
markable for dignity and suavity of manners — a born 
gentleman. Reared wholly in prairies, they seemed 
almost lost in the little woods around us. We all at- 
tended one evening at a dance among their camp fires ; of 
their entertainments, one was very remarkable, resem- 
bling, indeed, an institution of Classic Greece. Of a 
sudden, a fine-looking warrior sprang into the circle, 
stuck an arrow into the ground, and then, in the most 
animated language, recounted one of his deeds in arms ; 
closing with a call upon any performer of a greater action 
to make his claim to the prize. He said, in substance, 
that he had ridden alone to a Spaniard's (Mexican's) 
house, shot down the owner, scalped him, and driven ofi" 
sixty horses and mules. After a pause, another brave 
arose ; described an action which he deemed more brave 
or reputable. He had, on a certain occasion, struck a 
man in battle : and then removing the arrow, laid it at 
the feet of the presiding chief. Others in like manner 
oifered articles, some of more value, until many had, in 
their finest style of oratory, proclaimed their proudest 
deeds. These recitals are always strictly veracious ; and 
fashion, or custom, decides that they are not immodest. 
At the close, the chief adds his sanction by a distribution 
of the prizes. Opinion has settled the comparative honor 
of many of these feats. The highest is, to take a Avar- 
rior prisoner ; the second, first to strike a dead or fallen 
man in battle : there are several reasons given for this 
singular honor ; one perhaps is, that it is most likely to 
fall to the person who has slain the enemy. A wounded 
man is dangerous to approach, and will generally have 



IN THE ARMY. Ill 

friends near him ; and it is a frequent stratagem to feign 
death to draw on an enemy — seeking this honor — to 
almost certain destruction. I once saw a warrior rushing 
too eagerly to strike a foe, who certainly was quite dead, 
killed by an accidental shot. Next to this feat is, to 
strike an opposing enemy in battle. 

We were frequently visited by parties of Ottoes, from 
near the mouth of the Great Platte ; they were a brave 
and interesting people. Their principal chief, I-e-tan, 
was a distinguished man, of great prowess, and profound 
judgment, or craft ; perhaps his most remarkable quality 
was, a close observation and penetration of character and 
motives.. I heard a gentleman, who knew him well, and 
spoke his language, say, that he had known him to form 
judicious if not accurate estimates of men, from a half 
hour's acquaintance, and without understanding a word 
that was spoken. But deep beneath the calm exterior of 
his character burned a lava of impetuous passions which, 
when strongly moved, burst forth with a fierce and blind 
violence. 

I-e tan had the advantage of a fine and commanding 
figure ; so remarkable, indeed, that once at a dinner on 
a public occasion at Jefferson Barracks, his health was 
drank, with a complimentary application of the lines — 

" A combination and a form indeed, 
Where every god did seem to set his seal, 
To give the world assurance of a man." 

There was a passage in the life of this chief which has 
been so perverted by an Indian story-monger, that I 
cannot refrain from giving it rightly. In a deep carouse 
which took place one night in the village in 1822, his 
brother, a fine fellow, named Blue-eyes (that color being 



112 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

very extraordinary in an Indian), had the misfortune to 
bite oif a small piece of I-e-tan's nose. So soon as he 
became fully sensible of this irreparable injury, to which, 
as an Indian, he was perhaps eA^en more sensitive than a 
white man, I-e-tan burned with a mortal resentment. 
He told his brother that he would kill him ; and retired, 
got a rifle, and returned. Blue-eyes was found leaning 
with folded arms against a pillar of his lodge, and thus, 
with a heroic Stoicism which has been rightly attributed 
as a characteristic of the race, without a murmur, or a 
word, or the quiver of a muscle, submitted to his cruel 
fate. I-e-tan deliberately shot him through the heart. 

Then was I-e-tan seized with a violent remorse, and 
exhibited the redeeming traits of repentance and incon- 
solable grief, and of greatness, in the very constancy of 
the absorbing sentiment. He retired from all intercourse 
with his race, abstaining wholly from drink, for which he 
had a propensity ; as if under a vow he went naked for 
near two years ; he meditated suicide, and was probably 
only prevented from committing it by the influence of a 
white friend ; but he sought honorable death in desperate 
encounters with all enemies he could find, and in this 
period acquired his name or title, from a very destructive 
attack which he made upon a party of the I-e-tan tribe. 
He lived a year or two with the Pawnees, acquired per- 
fectly their very difficult language, and attained a great 
influence over them, which he never lost. After several 
years of such penance I-e-tan revisited the villages of his 
nation ; and, in 1830, on the death of La Criniere, his 
elder brother, succeeded him as principal chief. 

I-e-tan married many of the finest girls of his own and 
neighboring tribes, but never had children. Latterly, 
one of his wives proved to be pregnant ; and, while wa- 



IN TUB ARMY. 113 

vering between love and revenge, a male cliild was born 
with teeth. Vanity now proved the strongest passion ; 
he feigned to believe it his son, and pronounced it a 
special interposition of the Great Spirit, of which this 
extraordinary sign was the proof. I-e-tan was the last 
chief who could so far resist the ruinous influence of the 
increasing communication of his tribe with the villanous 
— the worse than barbarous whites of the extreme fron- 
tier, as to keep the young men under a tolerable control ; 
his death proved st signal for license and disorder. 

Intemperance was the great fault in I-e-tan's character 
— the cause of his greatest misfortune and crime ; it led 
to a violent death. The circumstances of this tragedy 
are worthy of record, if only that they develop some 
strong traits of aboriginal character; they are as follows. 
In April, 1837, accompanied by his two youngest wives, at 
a trading-house near the mouth of the Platte, he indulged 
in one of his most violent fits of drunkenness ; and in 
this condition, on a dark and inclement night, drove his 
wives out of doors ; two men of his tribe, who witnessed 
these circumstances, took the utmost advantage of them, 
and seduced the women to fly in their company. One of 
these men had formerly been dangerously stabbed by 
I-e-tan. Actuated by hatred — calculating perhaps on 
the chief's declining power, and the strength of their 
connection, which was great — the seducers becoming 
tired of outlying in hunting camps, &c., determined to 
return to the village and face it out. Such cases of elope- 
ment are not very unfrequent ; but, after a much longer 
absence, the pai'ties generally become silently reconciled, 
if necessary through the arrangement of friends. But 
I-e-tan said that it was not only a personal insult and 
injury, but an evident defiance of his power, and that 

10* 



114 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

he would live or die the chief of the Ottoes. His enemies 
had prepared their friends for resistance, and I-e-tan 
armed himself for the conflict. He sought and found the 
young men in the skirts of the village, near some trees 
where their supporters were concealed. I-e-tan addressed 
the man whom he had formerly wounded : " Stand aside ! 
I do not wish to kill you ; I have perhaps injured you 
enough." The fellow immediately fled. He then fired 
upon the other, and missed him ; about to return the 
fire, he was shot down by a nephew of I-e-tan's, from a 
great distance. I-e-tan then drew a pistol, jumped 
astride his fallen enemy, and was about to blow his brains 
out, when the interpreter, Dorian, hoping even then to 
stop bloodshed, struck up his pistol, which was discharged 
in the air, and seized him around the body and arms : at 
this instant the wounded man, writhing in the agony of 
death, discharged his rifle at random ; the ball shattered 
Dorian's arm, and broke both of I-e-tan's ; but being then 
unloosed, he sprang upon and stamped the body, and 
called upon his sister, an old woman, who, with an axe in 
hand, came running like his nephews and friends from 
the village, to beat out his brains, which she did. At this 
instant (Dorian being out of the way) a volley was fired 
from the trees at I-e-tan, and five balls penetrated his 
body ; then, his nephews coming too late to his support, 
took swift vengeance : they fired at his now flying ene- 
mies, and, although they were in motion, near two hun- 
dred yards distant, three of them fell dead. 

I-e-tan was conveyed to his lodge in the village, where, 
being surrounded by many relations and friends, he de- 
plored the condition of the nation, and warned them 
against the dangers and evils to which it was exposed. 
He assured them most positively that if he willed it, he 



INTHEARMY. 115 

could C07itinue to live ; but that many of the Ottoes had 
become such dogs, that he was weary of governing them ; 
and that his arms being broken, he could no longer be a 
great warrior. He gave some messages for his friend, 
the agent who was expected at the village, and then 
turning to a bystander, told him he had heard that day 
he had a bottle of whiskey, and to go and bring it ; which 
being done, he caused it to be poured down his throat, 
when being drunk, he sang his death-song and died. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Amid the quiet inactivity of an infantry outpost, I 
could scarcely fail to inquire into and learn much of the 
manners, customs, and traditions of the aboriginal tribes, 
with many of which I was much in contact. 

The Indian is still misunderstood by bookwriters and 
readers. Lately we have begun to discover that the 
apathy and insensible sternness of disposition ascribed 
to them, are a mistaken exaggeration of their manners 
before strmigers. It originated perhaps in an over- 
wrought copy of the cold dignity and hardness of the 
reputed Roman character ; and served — while it misled — 
to give a factitious interest to the red hero of a romance ; 
but the world may rely upon it that those whose pursuits 
have led to intimate acquaintance with the native charac- 
ter of the aborigines, have not been writers. 

The Indian, so reserved and dignified in council, and 
in his intercourse with strangers, at home with his tribe, 



116 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

and in domestic life is eminently social ; full of merri- 
ment and laughter, and fond of a practical joke, he seeks 
lively company ; attends feasts and amuses himself with 
ludicrous narratives, or listens to the marvellous stories 
and traditions of the olden time ; he frequently passes 
the night in singing and dancing ; or, in romantic mood, 
serenades with his flute, and sings praises to some red 
beauty who holds the vigils of love. 

The Indian learns to control his passions in con- 
sequence of the absence of a protecting law ; they fight 
only with weapons, and the taking of life leads to bloody 
family feuds, to factions, and sometimes to civil war. 

He knows no moral restraint upon lying ; and his life 
is spent in the study and practice of deceit, as a means of 
aggrandizement; and for the attainment of petty ends, he 
uses it with a liberality only limited by the fear of detec- 
tion ; this, as with the Spartan theft, is the only crime. 
Frequent exposure only brands him with the character of 
fool. 

On the women, of course, falls the domestic drudgery, 
as it does on most white women, with the only difference, 
that it is of a harsher and more laborious kind ; a con- 
sequence of their wild mode of life, which, too, of course, 
hardens the women and fits them for their duties. Some 
of these would unfit the man for hunting, in which he 
has his full share of the curse of labor. On his return 
to his lodge after days of exhausting exposure and exer- 
tions for the support of his family, his wife is happy in 
every care for his comfort ; removes his stiff-worn cloth- 
ing ; hastens to cook and set before hira the best food 
which she has ; offers him a pipe ; unpacks the meat 
which he has brought ; and willingly, if her little son has 
not done it, takes care of the horse. The husband 



IN THE ARMY. 117 

strives to obtain wealth in horses to relieve his family 
of travelling on foot and carrying burdens. The wife is 
contented and happy. 

The men are fond of their children, and playful in 
their intercourse with them ; parents give them lessons 
of prudence and good behavior ; but the boys soon throw 
oflf the restraint of their mothers, who, when they become 
seven or eight years of age, begin to stand in dread of 
the bow and arrows of the young warriors ; at ten or 
twelve, the boys begin to rebel also against their fathers, 
whom they are apt to strike on provocation with the first 
thing they lay their hands on ; the father then goes off 
rubbing his hurt, and tells his neighbors what a brave 
warrior his boy will become. 

The daughters, under the maternal eye, are very gene- 
rally chaste, as a matter of policy : after marriage they 
are less so ; but perhaps not less than among the civilized. 
Some tribes, however, hold this virtue in small esteem. 

The Indian eats when he is hungry, and at no regular 
times ; so that the members of a family seldom eat 
together, and the women very seldom with the men. 
They are almost equally irregular in their hours of sleep 
and rest. 

They have no distinction of vulgar and polite language, 
and feel no indelicacy in using all expressive words in 
every society and presence. 

The men all choose some animal, bird, or fish, as their 
own peculiar patron, to which they offer a kind of wor- 
ship, much like that of patron-saints : it is their "totem," 
a sort of coat-of-arms, and from it they frequently take 
their name. An Indian will seldom kill or eat of the 
chosen animal ; he deems it his guide and protector, and 
addresses to it speeches and prayers. 



118 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

They have physicians, who administer a few simple 
remedies ; as an emetic, for instance, they use a tea 
made of the leaves of the white willow ; their treatment 
of most local disorders is scarifying, and the blister by fire ; 
and in addition they are much in the habit of sucking the 
seat of pain, and even the most disgusting wounds and 
disorders. They commonly combine the office of physi- 
cian with that of priest or prophet ; and their French 
appellation has been anglicized into " medicine men." 
They endeavor to hide their ignorance, or artfully assist 
their remedies by inspiring confidence in their patients, 
by using much religious mummery, and the common re- 
sorts of quackery — a great instrument in which is their 
"medicine bag," which is held in much awe and respect; 
it contains a great variety of articles esteemed for one 
reason or another ; among which some portion or symbol 
of the patron-animal always finds a place : one might 
imagine they have copied from the veneration and uses 
of saintly relics ! 

The remote Indians almost hourly worship the Supreme 
Being ; but tinged with the materialism of uncultivated 
minds, and the absence of revelation, recognize his pre- 
sence or attributes in the most striking features of nature ; 
in the most fearful or beneficent elements of the scheme 
of creation. 

The first puff in smoking, with an ejaculation, they 
direct upwards ; and always sacrifice to the Great Spirit 
before eating ; they cut ofi" a portion of meat, off'er it 
to the heavens, as his dwelling-place, and then to the 
earth, as the mother of all things ; after which they 
burn it. 

In the spring-time parents send out their sons, and 
men go forth to lonely places and hill-tops, with their 



IN THE ARMY. 119 

faces and persons blackened with mud, as in mourning, 
■where they fast and pray sometimes for days together, 
and sing rude chants in praise and adoration. With 
minds thus exalted and wrought to enthusiasm, they 
imagine that they hold intercourse with the Almighty. 
In stormy nights, and in tempests, the warriors generally 
go out and seek this intercourse of prayers. Prophets 
thus arise ; fanatics who, perhaps, deceive themselves as 
much as others. With some notable exceptions, the 
women never sacrifice, or pray, or worship. 

The Indians, at times of impending calamity, some- 
times give away their children, as a humiliation and 
atonement to propitiate the Almighty. 

Many of their ceremonies, beliefs, and traditions strongly 
resemble those of the Old Testament. They have prophets 
who seem to believe that they hold discourse with the 
Supreme Being ; they prophesy, and pretend to give his 
very words ; they make sacrifices, observe feasts, and 
fast and pray — not in sackcloth and ashes, but covered, 
as a mortification, with mud ; — they inflict on themselves 
wounds, and have many other modes of penance ; they 
have traditions of animals speaking, and believe that in 
former days men were sometimes turned into animals. 

The following nations or tribes of Indians occupy the 
middle ground between the most savage and remote, and 
those who have been whelmed by the hitherto irresistible 
tide of migration, and debauched by their intercourse 
with the whites, viz. : loways, Ottos, Omahaws, Kansas, 
and Osages. Their fate is in suspense, but seems about to 
take an unfavorable turn. They have preserved this 
tradition of their origin. 

Several hundred years ago, a branch of the great 
Winnebago family commenced their wanderings from the 



120 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

great lakes westward. The motive or cause of this division 
and migration is not assigned ; faction, the exigencies of 
war or dearth, may have given the impulse. 

It would be interesting, if it were possible, to trace 
their progress ; to inquire whether their advance was 
peaceful ; if the regions passed over were in the possession 
of other tribes ; or, if this may be inferred, whether they 
resisted, were destroyed, or driven forward on the terri- 
tories of others. It might afford a partial solution of the 
great problem of the origin and history of the savage 
tribes found by our ancestors in possession of this vast 
country. We daily discover the monuments of a more 
civilized, but perhaps soft and effeminate race, who were 
supplanted by these savage warriors — the hardy children 
of the North — as were the Southern Europeans in the 
fifth and sixth centuries by innumerable hordes of barba- 
rians ; so overwhelming in their course as to leave but a 
germ of Southern civilization, which in nine centuries 
after had scarce attained its ancient growth. Cortez 
found in Mexico such a race, perhaps their descendants, 
constituting a great monarchy. 

After the arrival of the Winnebagoes on the bank of the 
Mississippi, the tradition assigns the cause of another 
division. The son of one powerful chief seduced the 
daughter of another, and refused, when called upon, to 
take her as a wife. This gross injury caused a violent feud 
between the rival leaders, their dependents and friends ; 
and it became so warm as to extend to the great mass of 
their followers. A bloody conflict between the two fac- 
tions was averted by a timely compromise ; the followers 
of the offender's father, though much the most numerous, 
withdrew from the rest, crossed the Mississippi, and con- 
tinued their migration. The partisans of the injured 



IN THE ARMY. 121 

chief remained in the vicinity of the river ; their de- 
scendants are the loways. 

Other causes of division, the greatest of which was 
perhaps the scarcity of game, subsequently scattered the 
main body, or emigrating party, over extensive districts. 
Their descendants are known to compose the four other 
tribes before mentioned. Of these, the Ottos, OmahaAvs, 
and Kansas have permanent villages on the Missouri 
River, and two tributaries, the Great Platte and Kansas. 
The Osages, formerly extending far south, even beyond 
the Arkansas, are now confined to a small district skirting 
the west bank of the Neosho, or Grand River. They all 
speak dialects of the present Winnebago language, and 
bear a strong resemblance in person and customs. The 
men of all these nations are of extraordinary size ; but 
the Osages are the largest, and, I think, exceed the white 
Americans. 

Their numbers have been much reduced, principally by 
small-pox. They are brave, and fond of war, but have 
seldom shed the blood of whites. They are independent 
and bold in their intercouse with us, and are also lively 
and intelligent. They have fine heads ; and their sym- 
metry of person, activity, and powers of endurance, are 
remarkable. 

Early in June, after planting corn, they are accustomed 
to move by whole tribes to the great plains frequented by 
buffalo ; then they enjoy the chase, and feast for months, 
but are also provident enough to dry and smoke a stock 
of meat, and return with their horses loaded with it, to 
their villages of spacious and comfortable dirt houses. 
They now pull much of their corn while it is in the milk, 
and dry it carefully in the sun ; it is then called " sweet 
corn," an excellent and almost universal dish with them ; 

11 



122 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

it keeps well, and, when boiled, swells, and recovers the 
tenderness and sweetness of a roasting ear ; it is superior 
to hominj. After gathering their crops, they again re- 
move to the game country in October, and there pass the 
winter in skin lodges or tents. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

I CONFESS myself warmly interested in the fate of these 
four nations, and one other, the Pawnee, whose condition 
is much the same. Their location has been until of late 
sufficiently remote to have allowed them, in a great mea- 
sure, to escape the degradation of the vices of civilization, 
which the depravity and avarice of the pioneers have 
always introduced among neighboring Indians. As a 
sample of their treaties with the government, I can state 
that the Osages ceded about 2,000,000 acres of arable 
land to cancel claims which were not to exceed $4000, 
made against them by meddling renegade whites, who 
have been the bane of their happiness. 

Suffering a miserable decay from the horrible diseases 
which we have introduced among them without a remedy 
or alleviation, they do not complain ; and driven nearly 
to despair by their contracted limits and the destruction of 
game, they have not lifted the bloody hatchet against the 
aggressors. 

The buffalo must soon fail them ; the restless white has 
wandered beyond, and is fast exterminating these animals, 
essential to the existence of many tribes. Every year at 
least one hundred thousand are slain for the skins and 



IN THE ARMY. 123 

tongues. The American Fur Company takes the lead in 
this destruction. 

Their near prospect is starvation, with the only alter- 
native to follow the buffalo by a gradual desertion to the 
wandering robber tribes of the great prairies. Thus, if 
left to their fate, they will cause great disorders on the 
frontiers, and miserably linger until they disappear from 
the earth ; or, losing character, language, and name, sink 
the last gradation to utter barbarism, and become the no- 
mad outcasts of the great American desert. 

Xo endeavor to avert this fate must be an object with 
every philanthropist. Any American^ of but common 
humanity, must feel interested in such a good work ; we 
have been the source of their injuries and evils, past and 
present. But it is evident the Government only can give 
an effectual impulse to the most beneficent plans of ame- 
lioration ; and it could be easily shown, that, leaving out 
of consideration the humane policy which it professes, 
these tribes have matter of fact claims upon our justice, 
so great, that a mere pittance in comparison, if expended 
in an enlightened and judicious manner, would perhaps 
accomplish all that can be done to save them ; and at 
the least alleviate their sufferings and soften the hardness 
of their sinking fortunes. 

In this cause of justice and humanity, I propose to 
consider what may be done to reclaim them from bar- 
barism, as the only possible way of preventing their total 
extinction. 

All the efforts of Government and of charitable and 
well-meaning individuals, or societies, have hitherto failed. 
The Government, in bargains little better than robbery, 
has with a close and sparing hand sold them benefits ; has 
paid them in promises of assistance in improvement ; has 



124 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

told them that the introduction of cattle, mills, ploughs, 
&c., would be greatly to their advantage ; caused them 
to assent ; and engaged itself to furnish them. But these 
engagements, reallj advantageous if fulfilled in a faithful 
manner, have been sometimes neglected, and always, if 
performed to the bare letter, been paid in the same spirit 
of the bargain ; without any further effort for their ad- 
vantage, without care that they should be taught to reap 
any real and lasting benefit ; in a word, the United States 
has by its functionaries and agents, grossly neglected its 
duties and moral obligations. Its " agents" have often 
been selected with any other motives than a careful re- 
gard to peculiar fitness, an intelligent and paternal in- 
terest in their welfare, a devotion to duty. Unprincipled 
traders have been ever allowed to reside with the tribes, 
and gain an unsalutary influence,* ever exerted for in- 
tensely selfish ends ; they have been allowed to persuade the 
tribes to demand their annuities in specie, in preference 
to such goods and necessaries at cost and transportation 
prices, as they sell them at an enormous profit. On the 
other hand, all private efforts to reclaim and teach the 
savages, have been unwisely directed, and often, I grieve 
to say, faithlessly applied. Missionaries have often been 
incompetent and selfish depositaries of sacred trusts ; in 
their establishments, the leading principle seems to have 
been their own substantial and permanent comfort ; or 
their measures, founded on mistaken views, have been 
executed in an unwise and unconciliating spirit. Their 

* This influence, founded on a gratification of their evil passions, is 
irresistible. Even in Washington City, deputations of chiefs and principal 
men, in treaty councils vi'ith the Secretary of War, after receiving his 
propositions and advice, delay their decisions and answers for a n!ght — 
as usual — and then make those dictated or advised by some obscure 
trader, or trader's agent, who will always be found to accompany them. 



IN THE ARMY. 125 

efforts have been worse than vain ; lasting prejudices have 
been created ; and in their most successful efforts, the 
cases of individual scholars, the effects of an unnatural 
advance in science — unaccompanied by the moral restraints 
of our religion, which their natures are incapable of re- 
ceiving, — have but resulted in the exhibition of an in- 
creased capacity for vice. All such efforts have been 
radically wrong. All history proves that simple Theism 
— the conception of the idea of a superintending mind, 
capable of directing all the operations of nature, — has 
been an attainment beyond the powers of man, in the 
early stages of his progress. Then, he imagines a dis- 
tinct controlling spirit, or deity, in every natural object 
of terror ; or of peculiar beneficence, in every effect of 
which the cause is concealed from his untutored faculties. 
Thus, even the civilized and philosophic Greek worshipped 
a multitude of gods ; and, to aid his conceptions, clothed 
them with human passions and attributes ; and, like the 
Romans, rejected for ages our holj?" religion revealed to 
the Jews ; but only after that nation, under the protec- 
tion and guidance of the Almighty, to jn'epare them for 
its recejjtioji, had ages before been taught by Him, a re- 
ligion of symbols, forms, and magnificent ceremonies, 
which, appealing to the senses of an untutored race, could 
engage their imagination, sway their passions, fix their 
attention, and ever renew their recollections of past signal 
and miraculous favors. 

To attempt to teach savages letters and the mysteries 
of the Christian religion (not even intelligible to the 
most cultivated intellect), is evidently to contemn the ex- 
perience of all nations. But taking for our guidance the 
gradual advances of Europeans, whose histories we possess, 
let them first be taught step by step the lessons of civili- 

11* 



126 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

zation; let us endeavor first to make them herdsmen, 
•which alone will be found a difficult and most important 
advance ; afterward direct their attention to agriculture, 
and the simplest mechanic arts. The mental endowments 
of civilized men seem inherited like physical distinctions. 
Let us not then shock the jiatures of savages, by attempt- 
ing to force upon them at once the manners and customs, 
the acquirements and the creed, which the gradual pro- 
gress, the recorded lessons of eighteen centuries have 
perfected for us, and in our natures. 

Having condemned the systems for civilizing the abori- 
gines hitherto attempted, in pointing out the causes of 
their total failure, my eiforts in the same good cause would 
prove certainly fruitless, unless a more specific practical 
plan be added to the general principles which have already 
been suggested. 

I have already stated, that the failure of the many 
treaty stipulations, made with some view to their im- 
provement and permanent welfare, has been the result 
of their spiritless or faithless execution (even the letter 
of the law has not always been fulfilled) ; and in part to 
an injudicious or incomplete scheme. Mills have been 
built, and no millers provided ; domestic animals have been 
furnished, but with no systematic provision for their pre- 
servation and proper uses ; farmers have been appointed, 
but with so little attention to a good selection, and regu- 
lations for their government, that they have proved farmers 
for their own profit, instead of that of the Indian ; but 
above all, the agent, on whom so much must depend, has 
but too often been selected without regard to peculiar 
fitness. If there is any office under Government, in the 
appointment to which it is essential to be actuated by pure 
and disinterested motives, and which calls for a most stu- 



IN THE ARMY. 127 

dious and judicious selection, it is this. The " agent " 
must be the soul of the system I would propose. It 
should be an office not to be sought for ; but the search 
must be for a man possessing these three qualifications — 
experience, ability, and devotion to the welfare of the 
Indian. He must be selected as would be the guardian 
of one's children. 

Assistants should be appointed, whose duties would be 
the preservation and management of the domestic animals 
furnished by Government for breeding. Honest men 
and good Christians must fill these stations ; and they 
should well understand in advance, that they are put there 
for the benefit of the Indians, and that they are to earn a 
livelihood by devotion to their duties ; and that therefore 
the proceeds of cultivation by Indians, must go solely to 
the Indians, who sJioidd never be required to labor but for 
themselves. 

Mills and blacksmith shops should be built, and millers 
and blacksmiths appointed, for their immediate benefit 
and permanent example. Log huts should be built for 
the chiefs ; sheds, inclosures, &c., be constructed for the 
protection of cattle, domestic fowls, &c., and farming 
tools furnished. But, in everything, a view shoufd be 
had to their instruction, and encouragement to learn the 
use of tools, and to work and provide for themselves ; and 
with this object, pains should be taken to discover and 
foster the inclinations or aptness of individuals for the 
arts exhibited or practised for their benefit. 

Too much restraint would be injudicious ; but the pos- 
sessors of herds might gradually be persuaded, that the 
search for far distant buff\ilo was laborious or disadvan- 
tageous. The excitement of war and the chase should be 
substituted by all manly amusements, by all means pos- 



128 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

sible. Let Government now prove its sincerity by a 
change of its policy, and as agriculture is encouraged, 
grant titles in fee, with restriction of alienation to whites: 
the advantages of property in severalty would speedily be 
apparent, and would turn the scale in favor of civiliza- 
tion. 

As a substitute for their vicious traders, factors should 
be appointed to sell at the villages all suitable articles at 
cost and transportation prices. Barter for peltries should 
be discouraged ; and on the other hand, liberal prices be 
given for agricultural productions : these might be advan- 
tageously used for the supply of military posts with fo- 
rage and rations. 

Physicians should be appointed to live with them ; to 
be compensated in part by regulated and very moderate 
charges. 

Individuals thus employed with the tribes should, for 
their confort and in part compensation, be allowed farm- 
ing and grazing privileges; but all of them strictly limit- 
ed to the production of articles for their use. 

Unless the trade be strictly confined to factors, trea- 
ties or arrangements should be made by which the 
distribution of present or future annuities should be uni- 
formly made in equivalents best adapted to the plan of 
civilization, and if practicable, be so varied as to offer 
encouragements to such courses of conduct as may be 
deemed conducive to this general object ; and donations 
should be made for the purpose of rewards or prizes. 

But^ above all, a military force at convenient stations, 
should maintain by the terror of summary punishments, a 
complete non-intercourse with white men. 

The world has seen herdsmen, agriculturalists, artisans, 
painters, sculptors, generals, and great monarchs, ignorant 



IN THE ARMY. 129 

of letters ; but never a literary savage," ignorant of the 
most simple and essential arts of civilized man. 

Indian hypocrites have been heard of; but there was 
never a Christian savage Indian. The Almighty, with 
wise but inscrutable purposes, has seen fit that the religion 
of his Son should make a gradual and slow progress 
through the human race : first introduced amid the only 
civilized nations, and who had attained every excellence in 
literature, its meliorating progress seemed long of doubt- 
ful success. God has not implanted in the savage 
nature a capacity of receiving the lesson of Christian 
humility ; or of conceiving of its being taught in the 
person of Omnipotence ; He hath ever worked by means ; 
and the first lessons of Christianity are to be taught in 
the humanizing influences of the most simple and labo- 
rious arts. 

After three centuries, the civilization of our Indians is 
yet a problem. But I have confidence that the plan I 
have described would succeed even with the wild tribes I 
have mentioned, and a few others, not more distant, and 
in a similar condition. 

Who will say, that it is not the duty of the American 
people to do all this, and more, for these helpless rem- 
nants of races which we have slaughtered, oppressed, and 
driven off from all the best of the land — the homes which 
they have loved and freely bled for ? Unless something 
be done, they will soon share the fate of the many free 
and brave tribes, whose deeds in defence of their country 
have been illustrated in our choicest literature, but who 
are gone, and have left no other memorial. 

If all should fail, we would at least be able to contem- 
plate their " melancholy " fortunes with more equanimity, 
conscious of having done something to smooth their rug- 



130 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

gcd decline, to alleviate the sufferings of want, and to les- 
sen or prevent the miserable and degrading effects of the 
vices of our own introduction. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The most remarkable personage that has appeared 
among these tribes was Blackbird, chief of the Omahaws. 
This tribe, though now reduced to about 1200 souls, in 
his time numbered, perhaps, quite as many warriors. 

Blackbird (Wah-shingah Sawby) was born about the 
year 1750, in the Omahaw village. It stands on the 
south bank of the Missouri River, ninety miles above 
Council Bluff. 

The dignity of the principal chief or king — for the 
language rather indicates the royal title — among the 
Omahaws and most other Indian nations is hereditary, 
but subject to frequent irregularities. Blackbird was of 
undistinguished parentage ; his earliest pursuits were 
those of a doctor. To this character he soon added that 
of religious juggler ; he became a "medicine man." His 
ambition then began to be developed, and he sought by a 
habit of austerity to obtain the respect of his fellows ; 
he rendered himself remarkable for the frequency and 
duration of his fasts and religious ceremonies. He next 
ventured to appear in the character of prophet ; and 
whether from unusual foresight, from cunning and ma- 
nagement, or perhaps some instances of remarkable luck, 
soon became a very distinguished one. Abut this time he 
made a fast of great duration, and sat motionless for 



IN THE ARMY. 131 

several days and nights on a high white cliff, which was 
in view from the village ; this over, he gave out tliat the 
Great Spirit had appeared to him face to face, and told 
him that he should become a very great man. 

Having acquired by these means the importance and 
influence of a principal man, Blackbird's ambition was 
further excited to follow the only remaining road to 
honors and powers — that of arms ; he became a partisan 
leader against the Sioux and Pawnees, with whom the 
nation is ever at war. He did not mistake his capacity, 
and, indeed, became highly distinguished as a successful 
warrior. 

Greatly respected as a war-chief, and feared as a 
prophet, he was now nearly at the pinnacle of Indian 
ambition ; but Blackbird was not contented : he could not 
brook a divided rule ; his ambition was boundless. 

An extraordinary circumstance now occurred, which 
moulded his further fortunes, and, infamously used, led to 
fame and despotic power. This was the solitary instance 
known of an introduction of arsenic into the Indian 
country ; it is not known by whom, or for what purpose it 
was done ; but certain it is that, perhaps accidentally, 
the poison fell into the hands of Blackbird, and with a 
full knowledge of its qualities and use. 

Blackbird had no conscientious scruples to overcome — 
few of his condition would have had ; he soon resolved 
on the most judicious and fatal application of this terrible 
agent. It was in his character of prophet that he deter- 
mined to sate his relentless ambition, to rid himself of 
enemies, and to become the object of the fear, and even 
adoration of the nation. 

He at once boldly prophesied the death of the rival 
chief : and took measures that it should be fully accom- 



132 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

plished by means of the poison. The chief suddenly died, 
as had been predicted, and the tribe were full of terror. 

It is needless to follow him in this sure and terrible 
course; he sacrificed a great number; — his enemies, and 
those who stood at all in his way. His religious mum- 
mery — by which he pretended to hold interviews with the 
Almighty — was frequently practised in his lodge ; it was 
done with much noise and ostentation. The nation heard 
and trembled. 

When he was known to be angry, — or in times of great 
distress and calamity, the people would fearfully enter, 
and seek by all means to propitiate his favor : prostrate 
on the ground, they gently raised his feet, and placed 
them upon their necks ! 

One of his wives eloped with a Pawnee ; he shut him- 
self up, and did not speak for several days : — the whole 
nation were in despair : — the parents of the most hand- 
some girls took them to him, and humbly offered them 
for his acceptance. 

The following instance is given of Blackbird's despot- 
ism. The nation were on their return from the summer 
hunt ; near the heads of the Platte, they were forced to 
cross a sandy plain, in which no water was to be found 
nearer than a long day's journey. By some means — per- 
haps by their setting oif before he gave the word — he was 
offended : he said nothing during the day, but rode on in 
advance until he came to the brow of a hill in view of 
water ; the poor people had suffered exceedingly on the 
hot plain, and came straggling on ; each pressing despe- 
rately forward with all his strength to quench a raging 
thirst. He allowed them to get in full view of the water, 
and then commanded a halt! The nation obeyed; and 
threw themselves on the earth in an agony of fear and 



IN THE ARMY. 133 

suffering. Blackbird himself sent forward for water and 
drank. The whole people seemed in danger of destruc- 
tion. There was a white man among them, named Ba- 
rada; after some time he went to the chief and told him 
he was killing his people : — he could do so if he chose; — 
but as one of the whites, who held Blackbird in great 
friendship and respect, &c., requested to be alloAved to go 
on. The tyrant then relented, or was glad of an excuse 
to give way : he gave his gracious permission that the na- 
tion should drink ; and accordingly with shouts of joy and 
thanks they ran off in a great race to the stream. 

Blackbird was in the habit of seizing traders' boats, 
taking, or distributing among the people every article of 
goods without any account of them ; — after the next fall 
hunt he would generally make any or all go and throw 
down their furs and skins in a great pile before the trader, 
until he should say there was enough. 

There was one warrior who quailed not before the 
terrible power of Blackbird. This was Maundahe Ghingha, 
— the Little Bow. He had become so distinguished that 
the chief was jealous, or held his character in some dread ; 
accordingly, on an occasion of his absence on a hunt. 
Blackbird's influence prevailed over his wife, and she con- 
sented to poison him on his return. 

Agreeably to her instructions, on Little Bow's arrival, 
she was particularly attentive and affectionate in her usual 
ofiices : and setting before him a tempting bowl of food, 
invited him to eat. I know not if in this case his death 
had been foretold, — but from some cause Little Bow was 
distrustful : he requested her to partake of the meal ; 
and on her declining, positively commanded her to eat. 
His wife then threw herself at his feet, and with many 

12 



134 SCENES AND ADVENTURES ' 

tears confessed her crime and revealed the secret of Black- 
bird's power. 

The Little Bow dashed his tomahawk into her brain. 
He then threw on his war-dress, — seized his arms, and 
mounted his best horse. He galloped through all parts 
of the village, proclaimed the villany of the murderous 
chief, and endeavored to stir up the people by violent 
harangues ; he paraded in front of Blackbird's lodge ; 
accused him of his crimes, uttered every abuse, and de- 
fied him to manly combat. 

But Blackbird's power, founded on the ignorance and 
superstitious fears of the people, was scarcely to be shaken ; 
the result was that Little Bow raised a party of about 
three hundred — including families — with which he seceded, 
and built a village about thirty miles above. Here they 
lived many years, until they were nearly all exterminated 
by small-pox. Little Bow himself survived his great 
enemy. 

Blackbird, or Tow-wan-ga-hi — Town-builder as he was 
also called, — died in 1803, about a year after this event, of 
the small-pox. He was buried on the point of a high bluff, 
immediately on the river, at the head of Blackbird Bend. 
He was placed sitting on his horse ; and over him was 
erected a lofty mound ; it can be seen for more than 
twenty miles on the river. He chose this spot, that he 
might see the white people — he told his tribe — as they 
passed on the river. 

Blackbird's memory is still held in reverence and fear ; 
Indians as they pass, are still in the habit of stopping to 
smoke, and make offerings at his tomb. 

I would give in connection with the subject of Indian 
character some account of a class of self-exiled wanderers 
and hunters, whose restless or savage natures, lead them 



IN THE ARMY. 135 

to sever every tie of kindred and country, and to prefer 
the privations and dangers of barbarism, among even hos- 
tile Indians, to the comforts and most exciting pursuits 
of their kind. A sketch of one may answer for the class. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

SOME INCIDENTS IN THE LIFE OF HUGH GLASS, A HUNTER 
OF THE MISSOURI RIVER. 

Those pioneers, who, sixty years ago, as an advanced 
guard, fought the battles of civilization, for the very love 
of fighting, may be now recognized in the class of the 
hero of my sketch, who 1000 miles beyond the last wave 
of the troublous tide of migration, seek their pleasures 
in the hunt of a Blackfoot of the Rocky Mountains, a 
grizzly bear, or a buffalo. It must be difficult to give 
even a faint idea of the toils and risks of a set of men, so 
constituted as to love a mode of life only for these at- 
tendants ; who exist but in the excitement of narrow 
escapes, — of dangers avoided or overcome ; who often, 
such is their passionate devotion to roving, choose it in 
preference to comfortable circumstances within the pale 
of civilization. Little has been reaped from this field, so 
fertile in novel incident that its real life throws romance 
into the shade. 

The class of people above mentioned, excluded by 
choice from all intercourse with the world of white men, 
are at different periods very difi'erently occupied : — at 
times, as trappers ; at others, they live with Indians, con- 
forming in every respect to their mode of life ; and often 



136 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

they are found entirely alone, depending upon a rifle, 
knife, and a few traps, for defence, subsistence, and 
employment. 

A trapping expedition arrived on the hunting grounds 
is divided into parties of four or five men, which separate 
for long periods of time ; and as the beaver is mostly in 
the country of hostile Indians, in and beyond the Rocky 
Mountains, it is an employment of much hazard, and the 
parties are under great pains for concealment. Trappers, 
and others who remain in these regions, subsist for years 
wholly upon game. They never taste bread, nor can they 
even procure salt, indispensable as it may be considered 
in civilized life. 

To take the beaver requires practice and skill. The 
trap is set, and then sunk in the stream to a certain depth 
(when the water is too deep for it to rest upon the bottom) 
by means of floats attached, and a chain confines it to 
something fixed or very heavy at the bottom. This depth 
must be such, that the animal in swimming over it, is 
caught by the leg. The " bait" consists of some strong 
scent, proceeding from a substance placed directly oppo- 
site upon the shore ; an oil taken from the body of the 
animal is generally used. The greatest care is necessary 
to destroy all trace of the presence of the trapper when 
making his arrangements, which, if discovered by the 
most sensitive instinct of the animal, it carefully avoids 
the place ; they therefore wade, or use a canoe in setting 
the trap. 

The solitary hunter is found occasionally thus employed, 
for the sake of the trade with those who visit the country 
solely for that purpose ; getting for his skins the few 
necessaries of his situation, — blankets, powder, lead, &c. 

The white, or more properly, the gray or grizzly bear 



IN THE ARMY. 137 

is, next to the Indian, tlie greatest enemy the hunter 
meets with in this region ; it is the lion of our forests ; 
the strongest and most formidable of all its animals. It 
is about 400 pounds in weight ; its claws more than three 
inches long ; the buffalo bull, perhaps stronger and more 
active than the domestic, is a certain victim to its strength. 
If a grizzly bear is reported to be in the vicinity of an 
Indian camp or village, fifty or a hundred warriors turn 
out (as in the East for a lion or tiger) to hunt to its death 
so dangerous and dreaded a neighbor. 

The grizzly bear never avoids, very often attacks a 
man ; while on the other hand, the hunter, but under the 
most favorable circumstances, carefully avoids him. 

In the summer of 1823, immediately after the desertion 
and conflagration of the Arickara village, consequent 
upon its attack by the 6th Regiment United States In- 
fantry, a party of eighty men, under the direction of 
Major Henry (that had volunteered in that engagement), 
left this point of the Missouri River, intending to gain the 
head waters of the Yellow Stone to make a fall hunt for 
beaver. The party had journeyed four days in the prairie ; 
on the fifth we would introduce our hero (who has been 
rather backward) to the attention of the reader — if, in- 
deed, it has not been already lost in the rugged field pre- 
pared for his reception. 

On the fifth day. Glass (who was an engage in the ex- 
pedition) left the main body accompanied by two others, 
to make one of the usual hunts, by which, while subsist- 
ence is acquired the party is not detained. Having near 
night succeeded in killing bufi'alo, they were directing 
their common course to a point, near which they knew 
must be the position of the camp for the night ; it was on 
a small stream, and as they passed near one of its curves^ 

12* 



Ida SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Glass became somewhat detached from the others, intend- 
ing to drink of its waters ; at this moment his progress 
was arrested by the sight of a grizzly bear issuing from 
beneath the bank opposite to him. His companions, 
overcome by their fears, which no obligation to share with 
him his unavoidable danger could resist, profited by their 
more favorable situation to attempt escape by flight, 
leaving him to his destiny. 

A contest with a grizzly bear, more tenacious of life 
than a buffalo, is always dangerous ; to insure a proba- 
bility of success and safety, all the energies must arise in 
proportion to the magnitude of the danger ; and they 
must be shown in perfect coolness ; the slightest falter, 
which with the many would result from a loss of this pre- 
sence of mind, Avould render the case hopeless and insure 
destruction. 

Glass would gladly have retreated, but he knew all 
attempts would be useless. This desperate situation only 
nerved him to the combat. All depended upon the suc- 
cess of his first and only shot ; — with an aim, cool and 
deliberate, but quick, lest greater rapidity in the animal 
should render it more uncertain, he fired his rifle. The 
shot was a good one ; eventually mortal ; but its imme- 
diate effect was only to raise to its utmost degree, the 
ferocity of the animal, already greatly excited by the 
sight and opposition of its intended prey ; it bounded 
forward with a rapidity that could not be eluded, in pur- 
suit of its flying adversary, whom danger, with means of 
defence, had inspii'ed with deliberate action, but now only 
gave wings for his flight. But it was unavailing, and he 
knew it ; — an appalling roar of pain and rage, which 
alone could render pallid a cheek of firmness, chilled him 
to the soul ; he was overtaken, crushed to the earth, and 



IN THE ARMY. 139 

rendered insensible but to thoughts of instant death. The 
act of contact had been two blows, inflicting ghastly 
wounds ; the claws literally baring of flesh the bones of 
the shoulder and thigh. Not sated with this work of an 
instant, the bear continued to pursue, with unabated 
speed, the flight of the two other hunters: — the chase 
was to them awfully doubtful : — every muscle of a hunter's 
frame strained to its utmost tension — the fear of a horrid 
death — the excitement of exertion — together producing a 
velocity seldom equalled by bipeds, had been unavailing in 
contest with that of the superior strength and fleetness of 
the raging animal. But, fortunately, it could not last ; 
— it was expended in the distance, from loss of blood ; — 
its exertions became more feeble ; — the sacrifice of a 
deserted comrade had saved their lives; — they reached 
the camp in safety. 

When sufiiciently recovered, they reported the death 
of Glass, and their escape from the pursuit of the wounded 
grizzly bear. A large party was instantly in arms. It 
had gone but a short distance when the bear was dis- 
covered and despatched without difiiculty. Glass, they 
found, was not yet dead ; they bore him to the camp, still 
insensible from the shock of his dreadful wounds. They 
were considered mortal, but, of course, bound up and 
treated as well as their circumstances would admit. 

A question then arose, how he should be disposed of; 
to carry him farther was useless, if not impossible ; and 
it was finally settled that he should be left. Eighty dol- 
lars were subscribed for any two men who would volunteer 
to remain with him, await his death, and then overtake 
the party. A man named Fitzgerald, and a youth of 
seventeen, accepted the proposals ; and the succeeding 
day the main party continued its route as usual. 



140 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

For two days they faithfully administered to his wants ; 
then their imaginations began to create difficulties in their 
situation ; at least their inactive stay became very irk- 
some ; and as they considered his recovery as hopeless, 
they equally agreed to think their remaining longer use- 
less. Thus wrought upon, and from innate depravity, 
they conceived the horrid idea of deserting him, over- 
taking the party, and reporting his death : — and they 
determined upon the prompt execution of their design : — 
nay more, these most heartless of wretches, taking advan- 
tage of his first sleep, not contented with the desertion of 
a sacred trust, robbed him of his rifle, knife, and, in 
short, everything but a small kettle containing water, and 
a wallet on which his head rested ; and which fortunately 
contained a razor. 

On awakening, how could he realize his situation ! 
Helpless from painful wounds, he lay in the midst of a 
desert. His prospect was starvation and death. He was 
deserted by the human race. 

But this act, which words cannot sufficiently blacken, 
perhaps gave a vital excitement. He muttered a mingled 
curse and prayer : — he had a motive for living ! He 
swore, as if on his grave for an altar, his endless hatred, 
and if spared, his vengeance on the actors in so foul a 
deed. 

Glass, when his water was exhausted, for fear he should 
become so weak as to perish for want of it, succeeded 
with great difficulty in crawling to the edge of the stream, 
where he lay incapable of further exertion for several 
days. 

Few are aware, until tried, of their capacity for endur- 
ance : and the mind seldom shrinks from an exertion that 



IN THE ARMY. Ill 

will yield a single ray of hope to illume the darkness of 
its waste. 

Glass did not despair ; he had found he could crawl, 
and he determined to endeavor to reach a spot where he 
could better hope for succor. He crawled towards the 
Missouri, moving at the rate of about two miles a day ! 
He lived upon roots and buffalo berries. On the third 
day he witnessed near him the destruction of a buffalo- 
calf by wolves ; — and here he gave a proof of a cool 
judgment : he felt certain, that an attempt to drive the 
wolves from their prey before their hunger was at least 
somewhat appeased, would be attended with danger; and 
he concluded to wait till they had devoured about half of 
it, when he was successful in depriving them of the re- 
mainder : and here he remained until it was consumed, 
resting and perhaps gaining strength. His knees and 
elbows had, by now, become bare ; he detached some of 
his other clothing, and tied them around these parts, 
which must necessarily be protected, as it was by their 
contact with the ground that motion was gained. 

The wound on his thigh he could wash ; but his shoulder, 
or back, was in a dreadful condition. For more than 
forty days he thus crawled on the earth, in accomplishing 
a five days' journey to the Arickara village. Here he 
found several Indian dogs still prowling among the ruins; 
he spent two days in taming one of them sujQBciently to 
get it within his power : he killed it with the razor, and 
for several days subsisted upon the carcass. 

Glass, by this time, though somewhat recovered of the 
effect of his wounds, was, as may be supposed, greatly 
reduced ; but he continued his weary and distressing pro- 
gress, upon arms and knees, down the Missouri River. 
In a few days he was discovered by a small party of 



142 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Sioux Indians : these acted toward him the part of a good 
Samaritan. The wound on his back was found in a hor- 
rid condition. It had become full of worms. The Indians 
carefully washed it, and applied an astringent vegetable 
liquid. He was soon after taken by them to a small 
trading-house about eighty miles below, at the mouth of 
the Little Missouri. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Glass slowly recovered from his wounds. He had 
been greatly reduced ; he was, indeed, when found, a mere 
skeleton : but a vigorous frame and strong constitution, 
inured to constant exercise and rough labors, thus ren- 
dered iron-like, with little encouragement, quickly recovers 
from shocks that would be fatal to men of different pur- 
suits. While in this situation, his curse, his oath of ven- 
geance on the authors of half his misfortune, had not 
been forgotten. When in his feverish dreams he fought 
his battles o'er, — entrapped the wary beaver, — enticed to 
its death the curious antelope, — when the antlered buck 
was arrested in his pride by his skill, and weltered before 
him, — and when the shaggy strength of the untamable 
buffalo sank beneath his fatal rifle, the bear, the grizzly 
bear, would still disturb his slumbers ; a thousand times 
would be imaged to his mind the horrid, the threatening 
grin of its features ; now its resistless paw was suspended 
over his head, with nought to avert the death-inflicting 
blow — and now its bloody teeth mangled his vitals. And 
again it would change, and he was confronted by mortal 
foes ; — and he felt a spellbound inactivity : goblin-like 



IN THE ARMY. 143 

tliey danced before him ; retreated, advanced, in mockery 
of the impotence of their intended victim ; — and then he 
would see them afar off, with demon countenances of grim 
satisfaction, in leaving him to a fate they could easily 
avert, of studied cruelty, worse than death. Awaking 
Avith convulsive start, the " Great Nemesis" ever invoked 
by the unfortunate, would seem to whisper him, " Hast 
thou forgot thy oath ?" 

His oath of revenge was far from forgotten. He 
nourished it as an only consolation ; an excitement to 
hasten recovery. Near two months had elapsed, when 
Glass was again on his feet. Nor had his ill fate in the 
least dampened the hunter's ardor : he the rather felt 
uneasy quickly to resume his adopted habits, which he 
had so long, so unwillingly foregone. 

The pleasures of this roving, independent, this careless 
life of the hunter, when once tasted with relish, the sub- 
ject is irreclaimable, and pines in disgust amid the tame- 
ness of more quiet occupations. 

Glass had found sympathy among his new friends at 
the trading-house. Who could withhold deep interest 
from the story of such wrongs ? He was destitute of 
clothing, the rifle, butcher-knife, &c., the means of the 
support, and even existence of the hunter. These they 
generously supplied him. A party of six of the engagees, 
headed by one Longevan, had occasion about this time 
to ascend the Missouri, in a Mackinaw-boat, with the pur- 
pose of trading with the Mandans, about 300 miles 
above ; these Glass resolved to accompany ; he was 
anxious to rejoin the trapping expedition from which he 
had been cut off; a great object, it may be readily con- 
jectured, was to meet the two wretches he was so much 
indebted to. 



144 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The party set out in their Mackinaw in October ; and 
near a month did they tug against the stubborn current 
of the Missouri : so slow is the progress of all boats but 
those impelled by resistless steam, that hunters have the 
greatest leisure to subsist a party thus employed. At 
the Big Bend, a half hour's walk across reaches the point 
gained in three days by the boatman's labor. Among the 
hunters. Glass was, as usual, conspicuous for patience and 
success. Many fat elk fell by his hand. 

The Arickara Indians, driven by armed forces from 
their extensive village, had retreated up the river to the 
Mandans for relief. They had been overpowered but not 
vanquished ; and their immemorial hostility to whites was 
but aggravated to fresh deeds of outrage. 

Late in October, the Mackinaw had reached within 
twenty miles of the Mandan village. Nor had its party 
been more cautious than is usual on the river. Late in 
an afternoon, at this time, they unsuspectingly landed to 
put ashore a hunter ; and, as it happened, at a point 
nearly opposite the spot chosen by the Arickaras for their 
temporary abode. Ever on the alert, the boatfull of 
white men had in the morning been descried by one of 
their out-parties ; and a runner had informed the tribe of 
the glad tidings. So all was in readiness for the destruc- 
tion of the unconscious objects of savage revenge. Scarce 
had the boat left the beach, and Glass, as the hunter (his 
lucky star still prevailing), gained the concealment of 
willows, when a hundred guns or bows sent forth their 
fatal missiles, and on the instant rose the shrill cry of war 
from a hundred mouths. Had a thunderbolt burst from 
the cloudless heaven upon the heads of the boat's crew, 
greater could not have been their astonishment, or its 
destruction. The appalling din was echoed from hill to 



IN THE ARMY. 145 

hill, and rolled far and wide through the dark bottoms ; 
and it was such as to arrest in fear the fierce panther in 
the act of leaping upon the now trembling deer. 

But few guns from the boat sent back defiance to the 
murderous discharge ; the shouts were but answered by 
the death-cry and expiring groans. The Indians rushed 
upon their victims, and the war-club and tomahawk fin- 
ished a work that had been so fearfully begun. They rioted 
in blood; with horrid grimaces and convulsive action 
they hewed into fragments the dumb, lifeless bodies ; 
they returned to their camp a moving group of dusky 
demons, exulting in revenge, besmeared with blood, bear- 
ing aloft each a mangled portion of the dead — trophies 
of brutal success. 

Glass had thus far again escaped a cruel fate. He 
had gained the almost impervious concealment of drifted 
and matted willows, and undergrowth, when the dread 
ebullition of triumph and death announced to him the evil 
he had escaped, and his still imminent peril. Like the 
hunted fox, he doubled, he turned, ran or crawled, suc- 
cessively gaining the various concealments of the dense 
bottom to increase his distance from the bloody scene. 
And such was his success, that he had thought himself 
nearly safe, when, at a slight opening, he was suddenly 
faced by a foe. It was an Arickara scout. The discovery 
was simultaneous, and so close were these wily woodsmen, 
that but the one had scarce time to use a weapon intended 
for a much greater distance. The deadly tomahawk of the 
other was most readily substituted for the steeled arrow. 
At the instant, it flew through the air, and the rifle was 
discharged ; neither could see the effect produced, but 
they rushed into each other's grasp, either endeavoring 
to crush his adversary by the shock of the onset. But 

13 



146 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

not so the result ; the gi'<ippling fold of their arms was 
so close, that they seemed as one animal ; for a while, 
doubtful was the struggle for the mastery ; but Glass, 
not wholly recovered from his wounds, was doomed to 
sink beneath the superior strength of his adversary, by 
an irresistible effort of which, he was rolled upon the 
earth, the Indian above. At this instant, the effect of 
his unerring shot was developed. The Indian's last con- 
vulsive exertion, so successful, was accompanied by a 
shout of victory ; but dying on his lips, it had marked 
his spirit's departure. It was as if his fierce soul, sensi- 
ble of approaching feebleness, had willingly expired in 
the last desperate effort and the shout of triumph, with 
which he would have ushered both their souls into the 
presence of the " Great Spirit." 

Redeemed unhoped from death, Glass beheld at his 
feet his late enemy, not only dead, but already stiffening, 
with hand instinctively touching the hilt of his knife. 

Brief was his breathing-time ; he was soon rendered 
aware that the report of his rifle had been heard by the 
Arickaras ; that his escape was discovered ; he had in- 
stinctively reloaded his gun, and he renewed a flight of 
which his life was the stake. Concealment from his pur- 
suers having become impossible, he used his utmost speed 
in the hope of soon gaining a shelter of such a nature, 
that he could end a race which could no longer be doubt- 
ful. Horses had been called into requisition. 

We may suppose his hurried thoughts now turned upon 
his late narrow escapes, which he feared were of little 
avail ; that the crowning scene was now at hand ; or that 
he prayed that That hand, so often interposed between 
him and death, would again extend its protection. 

Horses were of little aid in the thick bottom ; but 



IN THE ARMY. 147 

shouts, uttered at occasional glimpses of his form, an- 
nounced to Glass that his pursuers were thus excited to 
efforts that could not much longer fail of success ; and 
his thoughts were intensely turned upon some desperate 
stratagem as his only hope, when a horseman suddenly 
crossed his path. In his present state of mind, any In- 
dian appeared to his eyes, a blood-seeking enemy. He 
felt his death now certain, and was determined not to 
fall single and unavenged ; he was prepared for his last 
mortal strife. But fortune, which apparently delighted 
to reduce him to the narrowest straits, but to show her 
freaks in almost miraculous reverses, had thrown in his 
way a friend. The horseman was a Mandan Indian on 
a visit to the Arickaras. Attracted by the noise of the 
pursuit, he had urged his horse's speed to witness the re- 
sult ; and, coming suddenly upon the object of it, he, at a 
glance, became aware of the state of the case ; a hundred 
in his place, or he a hundred times to this once, though 
of a friendly tribe, would have sacrificed the white ; but 
taking one of the sudden and unaccountable resolutions 
of an Indian, or, perhaps, thinking his interposition of 
almost impossible avail, at once entered into the excite- 
ment of the trial. Be this as it may, he motioned to 
Glass to mount behind him ; it was instantly complied 
with, — when turning his horse's head, he urged it to its 
greatest speed. Better ground was sooned gained ; and 
avoiding the Arickara camp, they that night entered the 
Mandan village in triumph. 

Here Glass was well received ; for the announcement 
of his presence was naturally accompanied by the recital 
of his escapes, which nought but the greatest prowess 
could have accomplished ; and nothing is better calcu- 



148 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

lated elfectuallj to engage the interest and admiration 
of Indians. 

And often are acts and events, \vliicli are set down to 
the score of fortune or good luck, the result of superiority 
in qualities immediately conducing to the result. Fortune 
is not so far removed from the agency of man, that a 
genius may not, by a happy effort, insure its favor and 
apparently dictate to fate. A true knowledge of all of 
Glass's career leaves a first impression on the mind, that 
it is a rare combination of fortunate escapes, of luchy 
accidents ; but much of it may be explained as the more 
natural result of physical strength, cool intrepidity, and 
untiring patience. 

After remaining a few days with the Mandans, Glass, 
nothing daunted by his past dangers, and equally regard- 
less of new ones, resumed alone and on foot, his journey 
up the Missouri. The Mandan village is on the left or 
the northeast bank of the river ; it was on the same side 
he commenced his journey, intending to leave the Mis- 
souri at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, about three 
hundred miles higher up ; his object in following water- 
courses, being to meet with white men, and to run no risk 
of missing the trapping party under Major Henry, he 
was so anxious to regain. 

His arms were now a rifle, small axe, and the ever 
necessary knife ; his dress, a blanket capote, perhaps a 
flannel shirt, leather leggins and moccasins and a fur 
cap : he was, in addition, equipped with a blanket, spare 
moccasins, and a small kettle, composing a bundle sus- 
pended on his back. His route lay through a country 
infested with the Blackfeet Indians. The Blackfeet 
muster eight or ten thousand warriors ; they live north 
of this part of the Missouri, and extend west to the 



IN THE ARMY. 149 

mountains; and they are frequently upon the Yellow 
Stone. To their east live the Assinaboines, Mandans, 
and Minatarees ; to the south the Crows and Sioux ; and 
north and west the Mountain or British Indians. With 
these tribes they wage perpetual war ; and to the whites, 
incited by British traders, they have been more danger- 
ous than any other Indians. It was through the grounds 
of this people that Glass had to make his solitary w«y. 

The country on the Missouri, from the L'eau qui-court 
up, is nearly bare of timber ; the river bottoms are nar- 
row, and on but one side at a time, changing at intervals 
of twenty or thirty miles, and sometimes there are none 
at all, the ground being generally high bluff prairies. 
This open, bare country is at times, as far as vision ex- 
tends, in every direction blackened with buffalo ; it is 
within bounds to say, that a hundred thousand may be 
seen at a glance. One of these vast herds, all taking 
the same course to cross the Missouri, detained Glass for 
two days, declining the perilous attempt to penetrate a 
mass, which, when in quick motion, is as irresistible as 
the waves of the ocean. 

In two weeks he reached the mouth of the Yellow 
Stone, having met neither white man or Indian ; here 
he crossed the Missouri on a raft made of two logs tied 
together with bark, and continued his journey up the 
Yellow Stone. This is a wide and shallow stream, emp- 
tying into the Missouri from the south ; it is even more 
muddy and rapid than the latter river, to which it is 
believed to have considerable agency in imparting these 
qualities. 

It was more than three hundred miles to the forks of 
the river, nearer than which he could scarcely hope to 
meet with any of the party, since it liad set in very cold, 



150 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

which would cause the small detachment of trappers to 
be drawn into that point, Avhere he knew they were to 
winter. Right weary did he become of his journey, in- 
ured as he was to the toils and dangers which surrounded 
him. Almost in despair, and having at times nearly re- 
solved to retrace his steps and winter with some of the 
most friendly Indians, one morning in December he was 
overjoyed to discover a hunting party of white men. On 
reaching them, long was it before they could make up 
their minds to believe their eyes ; to believe that it was 
the same Glass before them, whom they left, as they 
thought, dying of wounds, and whose expected death was 
related to them by two witnesses. It was to them a mys- 
tery ; and belief of the act of black treachery, which 
could only explain a part of it, was slow in being en- 
forced upon their minds. Overwhelmed with questions 
or demands of explanation, it was long before he could 
ascertain from them in return, that the party had ren- 
dezvoused for winter at the Forks, which was but a few 
miles distant ; that Fitzgerald was not there, having de- 
serted ; and that the youth was still one of the expedition. 

Fiercely excited with conflicting feelings, — the escape 
of the main object of his just revenge, — chiefly for which 
he had made so long a pilgrimage, — and the certainty of 
soon facing the accomplice of his crime, Glass hastened 
to enter the encampment. 

Nearly the first person he met, was the unfortunate 
and guilty young man ; and it so happened they came 
upon each other suddenly. All attempt must fail to de- 
scribe the effect of his appearance upon the youth. Had 
he awoke from a deep sleep in the embrace of a grizzly 
bear, or been confronted at noonday by the threatening 
ghost (and such he believed of him) of a deeply injured 



IN THE ARMY. 151 

enemy, greater could not have been his fear. He stood 
without power of any motion ; his eyes rolled wildly in 
their sockets ; his teeth chattered, and a clammy sweat 
rose upon his ashy features. Glass was unprepared for 
such a spectacle ; and well was it calculated to create 
pity ; for some moments he could not find words, much 
less the act of his purpose. He leaned upon his rifle ; 
his thoughts took a sudden turn ; the more guilty object 
of his revenge had escaped ; the pitiful being before him 
was perhaps but the unwilling and over-persuaded ac- 
complice of his much elder companion ; — these, and other 
thoughts crowded upon his mind, and he determined upon 
the revenge which sinks deepest upon minds not wholly 
depraved, and of which the magnanimous are alone capa- 
able ; he determined to spare his life. 

With dignity and severity, but great feeling, he thus 
addressed the petrified youth, who but expected immediate 
death : " Young man, it is Glass that is before you ; the 
same that, not content with leaving, you thought, to a 
cruel death upon the prairie, you robbed, helpless as he 
was, of his rifle, his knife, of all with which he could hope 
to defend, or save himself from famishing in the desert. 
In case I had died, you left me to a despair worse than 
death, with no being to close my eyes. I swore an oath 
that I would be revenged on you, and the wretch who was 
with you ; and I ever thought to have kept it. For this 
meeting I have made a long journey. But I cannot take 
your life ; I see you repent ; you have nothing to fear 
from me ; go — you are free — for your youth I forgive 
you." But he remained mute and motionless; his re- 
prieve, or rather pardon, for such it must be considered 
in a country where the law has never reached, could 
scarcely allay the awe and fear of an upbraiding con- 



152 , SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

science. He was taken off hj some of the witnesses of 
the scene, in whose breasts pity had begun to take the 
place of wonder and resentment. 

Glass Avas welcomed as one recovered from the dead ; 
one whose memory — such is our lot — had already been 
swept far upon the gulf of oblivion. His services, ever 
highly appreciated, were again engaged in the company, 
where we leave him, employed as the rest, in the sole 
labors of supplying provisions, and of self-defence from 
the extreme coldness of the winter. Only adding, that 
his determination of revenge upon the more worthy ob- 
ject of punishment from his hands, far from being abated, 
was rather confirmed ; and that, what he considered a 
sacred duty to himself, though postponed to a more con- 
venient season, was still nourished as a ruling passion. 



CHAPTER XXL 

The varieties of human character, though infinite, yield 
to a grand division of the race into two classes, — those 
with much and those with little sensibility. It is im- 
possible to tell which is the more fortunate organization : 
the one class chafes and frets at all it sees wrong, and 
experiences positive pain at every exhibition of selfish- 
ness, cruelty, or turpitude ; but, with a lively perception 
of every natural or moral beauty, it has various capacities 
for pleasure and enjoyment. The other class is seldom 
troubled with emotions of any kind, and passes through 
life in a routine of sensual pleasures and animal pains. 
This mental and moral torpor I eschew, and prefer to 



IN THE ARMY. 153 

hold intercourse with nature ; to walk forth alone — nay, 
friend reader, if you are in the mood, bear me company. 
Let us take a stroll together this sunny afternoon ; 'tis 
glorious October, that, with its gorgeous mantle of purple 
and of gold, sheds a " dying glory" on the parting year. 
Here is a deer-path through the hazel thicket : see how 
generously unfolded are the ripe nuts ! Stop — listen a 
moment how the monotone of that gurgling waterfall 
harmonizes with the repose of nature ! Here it is. Let 
us cross by that moss-grown log. We have no longer a 
path, but we will go up this noble hill ; it is a natural 
park, and often graced by antlered buck, but in the 
majesty of freedom. Here we are out of sight of the 
"improvements" of man; so let us sit on this velvet 
moss ; mind not the rustling lizard, it is harmless. What 
a glorious solitude is here ! Before us is " a prairie-sea, 
all isled with rock and wood ;" and beyond, like an ocean 
shore, a vast bluff, rocky and forest-crowned. And yonder 
is a glimpse of the river, mighty in repose ; a zephyr 
hovering on its bosom sports with its tiny waves, which, 
dancing, reflect the dazzling light through those red 
and golden leaves. But the charm over all is a perfect 
REPOSE. Even the winds, whispering anon, seem to have 
folded their wings : and see yon leaf, in its " dying fall" 
— if there be a poetry of motion, behold its gently 
circling descent ! That gray squirrel detached it. And 
look, he seems to slumber. Nature is taking a sunny 
sleep. 

Oh, there is an invisible, unknown, mental link, con- 
necting all sweet, and calm, and beautiful things. Who 
can view such a scene without hearing a natural music, 
or an echo of some long-forgotten tone, which thrilled 
the heart, without recalling the few blissful moments which 



154 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

sl'.ed a secret, selfish joy o'er the dreary void of life — the 
first conception of love — its tone from beauty and young 
innocence — the awakening from some SAveet sleep to the 
sound of soft music, "which was deemed to be not of earth. 

Behold the thin blue smoke floating above those distant 
tree tops ! It is the type of the little present, hovering 
between the great past and the mighty future. What ! 
you too are asleep ? Unkind ! But 'tis well. Alone let 
me knock at the doors of old Time, and challenge the 
shades beyond. The spell is potent. I see dim figures, 
as in a dream ; but they assume the forms of palpable and 
warm existence. They are paler than the Indian, but 
are not white. They seem to worship at a mighty altar, 
and it bears the emblems of war. How strange is all ! 
Unknown animals are there, crouching among the multi- 
tude ; beneath the white drapery of a vast pavilion, with- 
flowing red streamers, the grave elders are seated in 
council. Sec, a noble youth arises ; he seems to speak : 
he addresses the fathers. How graceful ! how animated ! 
Plis robe falls back, and he shakes aloft his arm. His is 
a voice for war : for behold that eager and trembling 
maiden ! She drinks those flowing tones, inspired perhaps 
by thoughts of her. Love and ambition have carried him 
away. His spirit seems caught by the multitude. 'Tis 
ever so. Genius and enthusiasm possess a master-key to 
all hearts. The elders wave their arms, and seem to de- 
precate the rashness of impulse ; but in vain ; there are 
times when it is prudent to be rash, and they must lead 
or follow ; for all seem resolved, and the assembly breaks 
up. 

But lo, a change ! They go forth to war. Song and 
shout uncouth, and strange forgotten instruments fill the 
air. Huge animals shake their heads, and bellow to the 



IN THE ARMY. 155 

din of rattling arms. There is a band of horsemen, with 
shield and spear, and waving streamers : tliey seem clothed 
in white cotton mail. The orator is there, in highest 
command. His countenance now is filled with thought, 
and proud and stern resolve. See the mighty host slowly 
disappear, winding among the far hills. 

Another change ! Behold a vast multitude, " vast be- 
yond compare," with signs of mingled mourning and lofty 
triumph. All bear loads of earth, and deposit them on 
that beautiful spot. How fast it grows. It has become 
a mighty mound. And now they disappear. But one, 
of all, is left. The same maiden ; her face is spread with 
pallid woe; she weeps, and Avill never be consoled, till her 
ashes mingle with that monument of victory and of death 
— the tomb of her lost idol. 

" As swim 
O'er autumn skies the fleets of shattered cloiul, 
So swam these scenes and passed." 

What a moral was there ! Not the air-built castles of 
the hopeful and ambitious of the extinct race have fallen 
into more immemorial oblivion than have their proudest 
and soberest realities. Their mountain tombs are their 
only monuments. 

But the charm of this quiet existence, which had ex- 
tended through several summers, was rudely broken. 
Even then the holy calm of nature was disturbed by the 
noisy bellowings of steam, which I had strangely imagined 
those of living monsters ; and its echoes among the hills 
around me had a power to banish the sylvan ministers to 
my solitude. I felt my Arcadian dreams dispelled for- 
ever. I beheld the conquering struggle of man with the 
mighty Missouri, and felt that the type of a more active, 



156 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

troublous existence, in which the world demanded the 
performance of my part, was before me. 

Soon all was activity and stirring preparation. Half 
of us were to go to another frontier, where alarms and 
bloodshed had aroused every element of commotion. But 
I was not included in the call. Nevertheless, I had felt 
that I was to go. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A YEAR before — in 1831 — there had been a military 
expedition to the Upper Mississippi, to remove forcibly 
the Sacs and Foxes from their old country in Illinois 
(their birthright, which they had sold for a mess of pot- 
tage) : and now again, as if irresistibly and fatally at- 
tracted to the homes of their youth and the graves of 
their fathers, they had revisited, but peaceably, the for- 
bidden land east of the Mississippi. The militia (that 
prosopopoeia of weakness, waste, and confusion) had been 
called out ; about three hundred, well mounted, had left 
an encampment on Rock River — it is said in a kind of 
frolic — under a Colonel S. ; they came upon a few quiet 
and inoflFensive Indians, and murdered several of them in 
cold blood ; they afterward came in contact with a large 
body which they attacked ; they were repulsed, and re- 
treated at speed in utter confusion ; sixteen Indians pur- 
sued them many miles, and speared eleven of their number ; 
the rest, throwing away their saddlebags and flying before 
this force, did not draw rein for about forty miles : they 
reported that they had had a bloody battle with 1500 
warriors ! After bringing on the war in this style, the 
militia under Brigadier Whiteside retired to their homes. 



IN THE ARMY. 157 

To Brigadier-General Atkinson of the army, had then 
been assigned the conduct of the war, and the organiza- 
tion of an army of volunteers to co-operate with his 
reguhirs ; he had established his head-quarters and ren- 
dezvous near the head of navigation of the Illinois 
River ; and had sent an order for two of the four com- 
panies at Fort Leavenworth to join him there, with a view 
to their junction with six other companies of the same 
regiment then in camp on Rock River. 

The two named companies of our battalion were ordered 
to embark as soon as possible. Believing that the time 
had come when gunpowder would be burned, I offered my 
services as a volunteer ; and they were accepted. 

We departed within twenty-four hours after the arrival 
of the steamboat, and in forty-nine more, were in St. 
Louis, taking on board arms and provisions : the next 
day we departed for the Illinois, and, in two more, dis- 
embarked at Gen. A.'s encampment at the rapids. 

It is these rapid and exciting changes, with their un- 
certainties and hopeful anticipations, and these sudden 
and unexpected meetings with old friends and companions, 
under novel and enlivening circumstances, that lend a 
seductive attraction to the service, even in a time of 
peace ; and, to that happy law of our natures which 
causes us to forget pain, and to remember and dwell on 
the bright points of the past, we doubtless owe those 
regrets and repinings which are said generally to haunt 
the minds of officers who resign their commissions for 
other pursuits. 

However eligible and pleasant had been my situation 
at Fort Leavenworth, a seclusion of two and a half years 
had produced a longing for the unseen, — a desire for 
change ; and what had not five days brought forth ? A 

14 



158 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

visit to a city, — the rapid motion of nine hundred miles, 
— and, contrasted with our former quiet, the bustle of a 
camp of several thousands of men on the eve of a cam- 
paign; — and above all, the unexpected meeting under 
these exciting circumstances, with many very dear and 
long absent friends ! Those five days, — and above all, 
that last evening of my arrival, were worth years of hum- 
drum existence : — over the long interval of years, — over 
the chaos of events, it comes back warm and bright with 
a pleasure which causes me to linger as I write ! 

Next morning I was in the midst of the multitude of 
citizen volunteers, who were as active as a swarming hive ; 
catching horses, electioneering, drawing rations, asking 
questions, shooting at marks, electing officers, mustering 
in, issuing orders, disobeying orders, galloping about, 
" cussing and discussing" the war, and the rumors thereof. 
Here was a fine harvest for the humorous ; — and one 
might have passed the day in giving quizzical answers to 
absurd questions ; — there was no immunity ; the General 
in his tent could not escape the intrusion of these raw 
fellows, who had no more idea of the first principles of 
military respect and subordination, than they had of 
Frederick's campaigns. " Are you Colonel of the artil- 
lery ?" asked one of them of Lieutenant A., who was 
acting ordnance-officer. "No! I'm commander of it." 
"Beg your pardon. General." 

There was an unfortunate circumstance attending the 
organization and services of the Illinois militia ; — impor- 
tant elections were pending ; all candidates of course took 
the field, and unfortunately were candidates thet-e; and 
in the execution of their duties, the enforcing of disagree- 
able regulations and constraints, were the subjects of this 
mistaken extrinsic influence. The strict and impartial 



IN THE AllMY. 159 

performance of duty, is the basis of all military popu- 
larity. 

A remarkable exception to the general censure, was 
the brave and indefatigable Colonel E., who, stern, ex- 
acting, and even harsh when it was necessary to be so, 
was a model of energy and endurance : — happily I can 
add, that he soon after received the highest of those civic 
honors, which so many aspired to : he was elected a 
senator in Congress. 

My services as a volunteer were in the market ; and I 
was offered the appointment of aid-de-camp to one of the 
three militia brigadiers, with the somewhat tempting rank 
of major; I did not fancy the connection: but I lent my 
unavailing assistance to one of his staff, who spent 
several days in abortive attempts to produce a morning 
report : he was then furloughed for the duration of the 
campaign (and doubtless has been well paid for his ardent 
services). 

The organization of the volunteers was painfully slow, 
notwithstanding daily information of Indian ravages. 
But at last, on the 19th of June, one brigade was re- 
ported ready for service : it was very complete — on paper 
— for they even had paymasters and their mates; — it 
being well understood that they would never handle any 
but their own pay. The same day, this brigade and our 
two companies of infantry, marched with a provision 
train for Dixon's Ferry on Rock River : we were com- 
manded by the gallant old General Brady ; who had come 
as a volunteer, and was soon after assigned to the com- 
mand of a division. We passed over a fine country of 
woods and prairie interspersed; but the soil was rich and 
soft ; and our progress with heavy laden wagons was 
tedious. 



IGO SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The volunteers on this short march, gave us a fine 
specimen of what was to be expected of their services. 
Thej had been ordered to take on their horses some 
twelve or fifteen days' rations ; on the second morning's 
march thej raised the cry of "Indians ! Indians !" when 
several hundreds without orders, or the least order, gal- 
loped out of the column, and scattered at full speed over 
the prairies ; — on joining again several miles beyond, it 
appeared that they had all thrown away the incumbrance 
of provisions : it was said to have been a manoeuvre for 
that object. We arrived at Dixon's June 23d. Here we 
found entrenched on the north side of the river, six com- 
panies of the 6th, four of the 1st, and two of the 5th 
infantry : the volunteers encamped on the south side, and 
we joined our regiment : I then received a stafi" appoint- 
ment. 

Here was another delightful meeting with my own 
regiment, and old 1st infantry companions at Jefferson 
Barracks ; though delay was irksome, it was to me a de- 
lightful camp. 

Hock River, here about one hundred yards wide and 
not fordable, is a beautiful stream ; its glassy waters glide 
over white sand and pebbles ; its rich and verdant banks 
present every variety of natural beauty ; savannas, slopes, 
gentle hill and rocky bluff, prairie and grove, presented 
a varied picture, beyond all imitation or improvement of 
art. 

It was not strange that such a country, bound to the 
very heartstrings of the Indian by all native associations, 
and all the pleasures of his free, sporting, and untram- 
melled life, should possess for him fatal attractions ; fatal, 
when the dollar and cent interests of the unsympathizing 



IN THE ARMY. IGl 

wliites demand the letter of the hard-driven, if not fraudu- 
lent bargain. 

This was the point of final arrangements for the cam- 
paign ; five days after us, arrived Alexander's 2d brigade, 
which encamped with the 1st on the opposite side of the 
river; the next day Gen. A., with his staff, and Henry's 
3d brigade also, arrived. 

The night after this junction, about nine o'clock, a 
heavy and continuous discharge of firearms took place in 
the militia camp ; and soon after its commencement the 
horses broke loose, and more than a thousand of them 
ran scampering over the prairie hills. The roar of the 
firearms, and the flashes of flame which they gave out in 
the darkness, and which lighted up the river between us 
— the noisy rush of the horses over the hills — and the 
other adjuncts to the scene, which any one may well 
imagine, made us believe, as we hurried together, that the 
devil was certainly let loose amongst our militia friends. 
The firing was redoubled and became the regular dis- 
charges of battalions ; the General, astonished and un- 
easy, despatched a company of regulars in a Mackinaw 
boat to ascertain the cause ; the officers on reaching the 
camp witnessed a singular scene ; a whole brigade was 
regularly paraded and firing in the air as regularly as 
they knew how, while their General, mounted on a tall 
stump, was endeavoring to argue them out of it ; but 
their perseverance was not more extraordinary than their 
commencement ; and neither was ever explained : their 
General finally damned thera to all posterity, and resigned 
his commission in violent disgust. The firing came to an 
end, as all things must. 

The next day was spent in hunting horses : many of 
which were injured by rashiug in the darkness against 



162 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Dixon's fence. The Brigadier was induced to resume the 
exercise of his commission. 

About this time, Galena was the scene of some extrava- 
gant proceedings ; it was much exposed, and might with 
little difficulty have been captured and destroyed by the 
Indians, had they possessed a little more enterprise and 
daring ; the inhabitants present were in a state of com- 
plete panic, and the most unbridled disorder ; martial law 
was declared by the notorious Col. S., or one of the com- 
panions of his Hegira : but it may be presumed that the 
martial law entered as little as the civil, into their crude 
conceptions of order. They owed their safety to the 
timid inaction of their enemy. 

Brigadier-General Henry having marched north to form 
a junction with Col. Dodge, who had raised a mounted 
battalion of the miners, the 1st and part of the 2d divi- 
sion of the army were put in march before the end of 
June, and ascended the left bank of Rock River. A day 
or two after, we passed the ground of Stillman's defeat 
and race ; we saw parts of the scattered garments of the 
slain ; in front of the creek on which the Indians had been 
posted, the ground was boggy ; a circumstance peculiarly 
unfavorable to the action of horsemen ; but militia, or 
Western and Southern militia, though they never become 
cavalry, will never turn out, it would seem, otherwise than 
mounted. The horse is an incumbrance in warfare, un- 
less his rider is ready and skilful in the use of the sabre. 

The army marched northward about a week over a fine 
prairie country, intersected by many bold streams, skirted 
with woods ; crossing many well-worn old Indian trails, 
and passing the ruins of several ancient villages ; seeking, 
I suppose, the fastnesses of the enemy, without any very 
definite information of his actual situation ; although the 



IN THE ARMY. 163 

mounted men were scattered far and wide by the General, 
in efforts to make discoveries. 

At one time, indeed, some of the staff seemed to be- 
lieve that they knew the exact position of the enemy ; 
and on the information of certain guides, actually sketched 
a map of his stronghold, intrenched among swamps and 
morasses, the approach through which marvellously re- 
sembled the schoolboy puzzle of the walls of Troy. 

About the 9th of July, at the noonday halt, the 
General called an informal council of war ; having re- 
ceived information that Black Hawk and his warriors 
were strongly posted some eight or nine miles in our 
front ; he proposed, we understood, this question : whether 
the army should then advance in the expectation of ar- 
riving much fatigued before the enemy, and near night- 
fall ; or encamp, and advance to the attack very early 
next morning ? 

The army advanced ; and performed a march of near 
ten miles, without passing water on the prairies ; the sun 
was fast sinking, when we approached an extensive wood : 
and so soon as the advance had struck it, we heard and 
saw an irregular discharge of fire-arms ; our pack-horses 
were immediately picketed in a body, and left under a 
guard ; and the infantry hastened to advance in column, 
while we all were in the very pleasant belief that we were 
marching into a decisive combat : never were troops in 
better spirits, when it is considered that a minute before 
many seemed exhausted by fatigue and thirst ; — on entering 
the woods under these circumstances, it became known that 
the fire had proceeded from a body of irregulars — chiefly 
Indians, in front of whom a deer had run a kind of 
gauntlet. Every circumstance had conspired to assure 
us of an approaching action ; and slowly and unwillingly 



164 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

were all convinced of the truth ; so that in the dispositions 
for the night-camp — which was established very soon 
after near a pond — some, in the blind obedience which 
discipline exacts of the most eager, only recognized the 
preparations for battle ; and when I assigned to a company 
commander of the 6th his camp-ground, he inquired of 
me the position of the enemy ! 

We were afterwards strongly confirmed in a belief then 
held, that the Sacs and Foxes were that night encamped 
within two or three miles of us : in fact, two of us on this 
occasion offered our services to the General, to proceed 
on foot and endeavor to discover his position ; but it was 
not approved of. 

In this camp one of the militia sentinels was so 
nervously vigilant as to shoot a friend. This is not a 
very uncommon occurrence among them ; and they are 
supposed by some ill-natured persons to be generally more 
dangerous to their friends than to their enemies. 

Being near the enemy, and in the vicinity of his favor- 
ite retreats, the infantry next day moved to better posi- 
tion, which was near at hand, and the volunteers were 
detached in force in different directions to seek him : but 
they met with no success. 

The day after, the army marched by Lake Koshkonong, 
and took up a strong position beyond on the bank of 
Clearwater Creek, not far from its junction with Rock 
River. Opposite was a very extensive and almost im- 
penetrable tamarisk swamp : nevertheless a substantial 
bridge was commenced next morning ; and evidently 
under the observation of the Indians, for two of our men 
were wounded. 

Riding that day alone in a wood, a little distance in 



IN THE ARMY. 165 

advance of a column, my discipline was sorely tried ; a 
noble buck approached me and stood several moments 
within pistol-shot ; my hand, almost before I knew it, had 
grasped a holster pistol ; but I resisted the temptation, 
only to hear, immediately after, some of the irregulars 
popping away at him as he ran past. 

One day was spent in camp on Clear Creek ; but the 
bridge was not quite finished, when the next morning the 
march was resumed ; our course was up the Clearwater, 
as near as swamps, bogs, and some very difficult miry 
branches would permit. When these occur in a low 
prairie they require much labor to render them passable : 
if not bridged, the banks are dug, and much brush and 
long grass deposited ; over these trembling causeways, 
each horse seems to consider his passage an adventure ; 
and many a rider, too ; their awkward mishaps repay in 
amusement the pioneers for their extra work ; the streams 
are very deep, with abrupt quicksand banks, covered to 
the verge with sod. One of them I attempted to leap ; 
but mistook for my point of departure, a tuft of grass for 
a substantial sod, and of course tumbled headlong in. I 
then, wet as I was, committed a double imprudence ; first, 
in riding at a very slow pace — which was no exercise at 
all ; and then, on getting into my tent, changing all my 
clothes ; the consequence was a very violent cold ; — al- 
most the only one I ever took in camp. 

I observed to-day a fair specimen of the great ad- 
vantages which the front holds over the rear of a column 
of march ; we passed some remarkable springs ; — little 
grassy mounds in a savanna ; the first comers drank of 
crystal and very cold water bubbling over the rim of 
something very like an immense emerald bowl ; but before 
the last arrived, they had become mere mud-holes. 



16G SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The whole march of some twelve miles was in view ot 
the tamarisk swamp. Our camp was pitched on a slight 
elevation near the Clearwater. A council of general 
officers was called, and it was decided not to cross and 
penetrate the swamp at this point ; nor to move further 
in this direction. 

Accordingly, on the following day, a countermarch was 
made ; and the army retracing its steps, passed beyond 
the mouth of Clearwater, and encamped on the shore of 
Lake Koshkonong, which is an enlargement of Rock 
River. 

The provisions of the army were very nearly exhausted, 
and the consequence was a temporary suspension of ope- 
rations, until a further supply could be drawn from the 
nearest depot ; this was Fort Winnebago, distant about 
sixty miles. The division of mounted volunteers was 
ordered to march thither and draw fifteen days' rations, 
which they were to transport on their horses : whilst a 
convoy was to be despatched to our camp. 

A slight breastwork was thrown up round this camp ; 
and the troops were also employed in building two block- 
houses, and a connecting picket-work to serve for a depot. 

I do not attempt to give more than a mere sketch of the 
actual operations of this campaign : for, not having been 
on the General's staflF, I was not "in the secrets" of the 
cabinet:" I did not harass myself in seeking by cross- 
questions, scraps of intelligence ; or, in eternally discuss- 
ing and criticising operations founded on intelligence and 
exigencies of which the critics were generally in profound 
ignorance ; or, in volunteering advice to any of supposed 
influence who would listen, as some one or a few officers 
did, and seemed to suffer as much uneasiness as if they 
had borne a load of responsibility equal to that with which 



INTHEARMY. 107 

many adverse circumstances seemed to overload our com- 
manding General, 

It was, however, impossible to mistake the causes of 
this delay, when a prudent General and an able staff were 
evidently blameless. It Avas generally reported, and not 
contradicted, that the volunteers had been improvident 
and wasteful to the degree of leaving in certain camps 
rations that had been issued, by the barrel in unbroken 
bulk ! And again, the militia convoys were incredibly 
timid and unmanageable ; provision trains could not be 
got on ; one was abandoned by guard and drivers, within 
two or three miles of our position here, in consequence of 
their having imagined that they had seen an Indian or 
two : thus were good plans thwarted in despite of the 
great exertions of the quarter-master department ; which 
was indebted to the militia for an active and energetic 
head. 

Whilst the infantry lay here under these circumstances, 
I well remember reading in a National Intelligencer — 
which some express-man had brought to camp — a speech 
made by a Western senator, who branded the regular 
army as the "sweepings of cities," &c. &c., and extolled 
the frontier men — militia — rangers — (our friends, the 
volunteers), as infinitely superior ; men who would be 
" here to-night, and to-morrow fifty miles off:" who would 
^'subsist themselves," &c. Verily, your politician excels 
in humbug: ! 



108 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

After a delay of four or five da^s in camp on Lake 
Koshkonong, — waiting as before stated for a supply of 
provisions, — and for the mounted volunteers to supply 
themselves at Fort Winnebago, — a provision train arrived 
under the conduct of the indefatigable Quarter-master- 
general March, and we were joined by one brigade of the 
militia. Next morning the army marched once more — 
in a heavy rain — over the same ground of its former 
march and countermarch. At night we had not advanced 
so far as on the first occasion, and we were forced to en- 
camp on a piece of ground of slight elevation — a sort of 
island — amid the creeks and their swampy and overflowed 
bottoms. We were soaked to the skin ; the rain still fell, 
— and fuel was scarce : I was in a small tent with the 
commanding officer, in rear of one of the regiments 
composing one front of the encampment ; it was late and 
very dark ; I had fallen asleep on my blanket. Perhaps 
soon after, I was aroused by a rushing, rumbling sound, 
as of an earthquake, — and quite as quickly as the con- 
sciousness of the dangerous cause, found myself standing 
astride our little fire, with sword and cocked pistol in 
hand ; and saw, — hemming us in on all sides — the glaring 
eyeballs and arched necks of hundreds of horses, wild 
and trembling with excitement, and crouched almost in 
act of dashing over us ; I stood at desperate bay, with 
finger on trigger : it was indeed a moment of great peril, 
— but it was passed in safety ; and the horses became in- 
stantly calmer as they heard the voices of their-masters ; 
many of whom came boldly among them. They had 



IN THE ARMY. 1G9 

been picketed in the other end of an inclosed parallelo- 
gram ; — Indian yells had been heard, when they took 
fright, and rushed in the direction of our regiment, which, 
at the first alarm, had formed their line, — and as they 
came thundering on, had faced inward among their fires, 
which, glittering on their arms, had served to arrest their 
course, which had not acquired its full momentum ; they 
were thus thrown round our tent, which, mistaken for a 
more solid barrier, they had managed to avoid in their 
first career, and we were saved. It was the custom in 
like cases to spring to a wagon or tree ; neither was near us 
on this night : but an officer told me that he had sprung up 
one of the latter just in time to save himself, as the horses 
rushed under him and against his legs as they hung down. 

Next morning many horses were missing, and others 
injured. In the course of the night, an express, which 
had pushed through under its cover from the depot at 
Koshkonong, brought to the General important informa- 
tion ; and a second countermarch was ordered at day- 
dawn. The General had been informed that in returning 
from Fort Winnebago, Brigadier Henry, in command of 
his brigade, and Dodge's mounted battalion, had disco- 
vered the fresh trail of the Avhole body of the Sacs and 
Foxes moving northward, and had marched in pursuit. 

This day we passed Fort Koshkonong, in a cold and 
beating rain, and forded Rock River below the lake, — it 
was nearly swimming, — and half dead with cold and 
fatigue, encamped on the right bank. 

This encamping after a weary march, — particularly in 
a rain, or Avhen it is late, — is the most trying part of a 
soldier's life ; the day's labors would seem but then 
commenced ; every earthly comfort has to be worked for, 
as much as if they had never been obtained before ; and 

15 



170 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

one's labors are retarded, and depend upon the will and 
motions of others ; — details are to be furnished ; guards 
mounted ; camps laid out ; baggage unloaded, — and how 
often is it to be waited for ! — delaying everything ; tents 
are to be pitched ; wood to be cut ; water to be brought, 
frequently from a great distance ; rations to be distri- 
buted, then cooked ; arms to be cleaned ; inspections 
made ; but, above all, — with cavalry, — forage to be pro- 
cured, issued, and fed ; and horses to be groomed, and 
watered often in almost inaccessible places. 

After urging my poor horse over all kinds of obstacles 
— assigning their ground to the companies — communicat- 
ing orders to their commanders, and hearing the snarls 
of an occasional grumbler — I had still before me the 
duties of the regimental and grand guard parades. What 
wealth is there in a cheerful spirit ! A good soldier 
never grumbles (if he can help it) ; — when his rights are 
invaded, he pursues the most quiet, firm, and effectual 
mode of redress. 

Next forenoon we met expresses, who bore the news of 
an action on the banks of the Wisconsin, where the enemy 
was overtaken, and said to have been roughly handled ; 
a gallant fight it was represented to have been. That 
evening we formed a junction with the brigade and bat- 
talion of spies, at the Blue Mounds ; whither they had 
retired, after their glorious victory, to meet us. It would 
be difficult to give a full idea of the proud, but modest 
complacency with which they all agreed — for they must 
tell the truth — in extolling the intrepidity and coolness 
exhibited in the battle ; how they had, for example, cried 
out in the midst of it, " Come forward, boys, and draw 
your ponies !" by which they had playfully expressed 
their intention of appropriating to themselves those little 



IN THE ARMY. 171 

animals ; (which the Indians found so useful that we 
could not learn they had been persuaded actually to part 
with any of them.) " Wisconsin Heights" fairly promised 
to prove a watchword, before which " Tippecanoe," &c., 
might hang its head ; — " Pity it was, we had not been 
there ; — but they could not help it, — how could they, if 
the Sacs would allow themselves to be used up?" 

After all their boasting, the simple fact was, that Black 
Hawk, although encumbered with the women, children, 
and baggage of his whole band, covering himself by a 
small party, had accomplished that most difficult of mili- 
tary operations, — to wit, the passage of a river, — in the 
presence of three regiments of American volunteers ! 
And they were now gone — the victors could not tell us 
whither. 

The next day the whole army marched to resume the 
pursuit and cross the Wisconsin ; it encamped at night 
at Helena, on the left bank of the river. Here a delay 
of a day or two occurred ; arising from the extreme dif- 
ficulties encountered by the commissariat of so large a 
force in an uncultivated country ; and one very deficient 
in the means of transportation ; and the only calculations 
that could be made as to the next operations were, that 
they would be in an almost impassable wilderness ! 

Between Rock and Wisconsin Rivers we marched amid 
the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld ; a varying 
succession of prairie and forest ; of hill, vale, and mound, 
so various in form, abrupt yet smooth and green, that it 
might be imagined the sudden petrifaction of an ocean 
storm. Again, the soft face of gentle slopes, with groves 
and trees in the semblance of parks and orchards, and 
little prairie fields, presented the picturesque and peace- 



172 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

ful appearance of a higlily cultivated district, whence the 
dwellings of man alone had unaccountably disappeared. 

On a nearer approach to the Wisconsin River there 
was more wildness and sublimity; we marched along 
lofty and narrow ridges and beheld everywhere broken 
and jagged peaks — dark and profound abysses (bearing 
evident traces of volcanic action) — vast rocks disjointed 
and scattered ; — all seemingly in the confusion of some 
great catastrophe. But amid this sterile grandeur, we 
caught glimpses of green and sunny landscape, which 
seemed warmed and brightened by the effects of contrast. 
Descending as we approach the river, we followed a re- 
markable prairie valley, straight, level, with steep green 
sides or banks, presenting an extraordinary uniformity 
for five or six miles. Again, very near the river, we saw 
many isolated sugar-loaf hills, towei'ing several hundred 
feet in the air ; covered with grass ; dotted with pines, 
and showing in places their rocky structm-e. Their sum- 
mits commanded noble views ; the bright and swift river 
winding among rugged mountains ; and beyond, far away, 
its wide savannas and noble forests ; all, in this wild and 
scarce explored region, filled our minds with the exciting 
ideas of the discovery of a new country, which, in its 
summer dress, seemed to greet our approach with smiles. 
Such is the scenery of the valley of the Wisconsin, 
from which it was our ungracious errand to drive the ori- 
ginal possessors, who, like spectres haunting the scenes 
of their nativity and warm attachment, were destined to 
atone in blood for their only fault or misfortune, that 
they loved not wisely but too well. 

A post was established at Helena ; and the army 
crossed July 28th, and marched in a northern direction, 
in the expectation, doubtless, of soon falling upon traces 



IN THE ARMY. 173 

of the retreating enemj. If so, they were soon realized ; 
for we were still in the low grounds of the river, when, 
being with the van, I witnessed the discovery of the trail, 
which led to a singular and amusing little scene ; — sud- 
denly I saw Colonel D., — who was riding in advance 
with the General, — draw his sword and spur forward with 
great animation, riding hither thither — gazing on the 
ground, and uttering unintelligible exclamations ; — the 
General, though evidently quite ignorant of the inspiring 
cause of this eccentric proceeding, in a kind of blind sym- 
pathy, galloped after the Colonel, following him quite 
closely in his course, which became a series of circles, 
narrowing down to a point, where, sure enough, was the 
plain fresh trail of the whole tribe. Imagine a pointer 
circling in search of the hole of a ground-squirrel with 
a young one following, nose to tail, in an attempt at imi- 
tation, and then imagine them metamorphosed into horses, 
and on their backs, — of one, a portly and grave Colonel 
sword in hand — and of the other, a dignified and still 
more portly General ! 

The column here turned to the left, following the new 
course, which led down the prairie bottom of the river. 

"We had now a good laugh on one of the General's staff 
(a fine fellow and a great favorite he was !) who, absorbed 
in geological researches, or in search of the picturesque, 
had ridden far in advance, and continuing the course 
which we had first taken, passed without knowing it, so 
large a trail (which we were seeking); and was then to 
be seen a mile or two off, on the summit of one of the 
singular conical hills of this country. 

15* 



174 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Now followed a march over a country wliicli we found 
to present almost insuperable difficulties to the passage of 
an army ; a march which was perhaps as trying to the 
perseverance and endurance of the troops, as some we 
read of as remarkable before and during the Revolutionary 
War, though, doubtless, surpassed in these respects by 
some performed by that "Hannibal of the West," Gene- 
ral George Rogers Clarke. It was through a district said 
to have been unexplored by whites ; and certainly remark- 
able for a combination or juxtaposition of the primitive, 
alluvions, and other formations, almost unheard of in 
geology. It lies betAveen the Wisconsin, Pine, and Kick- 
apoo Rivers ; and was said to have been entered by Black 
Hawk in the belief that the army could not follow him ; 
if so, he paid dearly for his mistake. 

All but provisions and baggage of the first necessity, be- 
ing left with every wheeled carriage, and taking, as it were, 
a temporary farewell of the sun and his cheerful light, 
we forced our way into the bramble and thicket of this 
gloomy forest. We followed the narrow trails made by 
the Indians through undergrowth which could only be 
passed by patient and painful effort. The first day we 
forded Pine River, all but swimming for horses, and in 
the face of such other obstacles that an ambush must 
have led to great disaster. Afterwards for several days 
we toiled over a seemingly endless succession of lofty 
hills, so precipitous, that it was frequently necessary to 
use the hands to assist the feet. After ascending such a 
hill, perhaps three hundred feet in height, we would find 



IN THE ARMY. 175 

ourselves on the verge of an equally abrupt descent ; then 
a valley from a quarter to a half mile wide, to the foot of 
the next hill ; but in the valley we invariably found a 
bog, and a miry creek ; half the army as pioneers would 
then, with axe, hatchet, and spade, labor at causeway and 
bridge ; over which horses and mules struggled, making 
desperate but not always effectual efforts to extricate 
themselves. 

At night our encampments, or places of rest, were on 
all manner of ground, and in every shape ; fortunate the 
individual who found — if any did — a spot not too steep 
or rugged to lie on with comfort ; — and the nights were 
very cold, though midsummer ; once there was a frost. 

I have not mentioned the flankers ; — so necessary Avhen 
the column was lengthened out, as if in a forty-mile defile ; 
— their obstacles, which the instinct of the Indian avoided 
in making the trail, I will not enlarge upon. 

What a situation — to which there seemed no end — for 
an army ! How differently considered by the General and 
the subordinates who could laugh at personal difficulties 
and dangers ; and who, if life even were endangered, 
were involved in no harassing responsibility, threatening 
reputation and honor ! 

How unenviable is rank and power thus (in our Indian 
wars) continually struggling against obstacles and the 
oppressive sense of responsibility ! The exalted conscious- 
ness of well-used power, warming and ennobling the mind, 
is denied him ; or is overpowered and depressed by a 
struggle against disheartening difiiculties, which he knows 
his government and his fellow-citizens will not, and can- 
not appreciate. Even the pomp and circumstance of arms, 
— flattering to the minor feelings, — are denied him. To 
this picture there is no brighter side. Fume, glory, are 



176 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

not accorded to the conqueror of Indians ! How substan- 
tial then, should be the government rewards of so much 
labor and suffering, in the cause solely and exclusively of 
the country ! A leader of an army in a fair field of battle 
with a civilized foe, exalted by the hope of glory — which, 
like a bright spirit of the air, seems to beckon on ! — by a 
happy effect, or a happier accident, occurring amid the 
confusion of battle, and beneath the smoke (which, oh ! 
how often, obscures and veils forever the deciding stroke 
of some inferior), achieves a victory, and becomes famous. 

But Black Hawk and his band ! Unhappy tribe ! Fly- 
ing from their foes, did the warriors witness with stoic 
apathy their wives and little ones famished, .exhausted, 
diseased, and left to die on the roadside ! Every earthly 
tie severed — all humanizing feelings, attachments, and 
sympathies, outraged, embittered, destroyed ; — every hope 
and passion merged in revenge ; — why did not a desire to 
end a wretched existence in a glorious death, halt the red 
warrior on the hill-top ? Appealing to the avenging spirit 
of his tribe, why did he not on his native hill-tops, make 
the acceptable offerings to liberty, of blood and of life ? 

Is this wretched love of the most wretched existence im- 
planted in the human heart, an evidence of Unchangeable 
Omnipotent Will ? Not so : — for the more elevated by 
faith, patriotism, love of glory, and the many ennobling 
sentiments of our most tutored and exalted state, then 
the less does this selfish influence control us. 

But my subject ; — do these fancies and fine words be- 
long to that ? Alas, I know not : — when the memory of 
that unhappy flight was recalled : — when I saw again all 
the evidences of suffering and starvation ; — the corpses, 
not of warrior only, but of poor women, — lying as they 



IN THE ARMY. 177 

fell by the trodden path, — how could I confine my 
thoughts, or their expression, to unmoved description ? 

Why did not the Indian chief leave a chosen body in 
these fastnesses, where natural obstacles could well-nigh 
defeat the progress of an army ? That he had scouts 
that marked our progress, can scarcely be doubted ; but 
why he did not avail himself of their information that we 
had, or act upon the strong probability that we would, 
venture among these morasses, dense thickets, and pre- 
cipitous defiles, and oppose to us some small force, seems 
inexplicable: — at the Wisconsin he had covered well his 
passage ; and when we overtook him on the Mississippi, we 
were met by a small body of keen warriors, who accom- 
plished much with a similar object. Here a small force 
could have retarded pursuit at every step ; could have com- 
pelled us to condense our march, and continually make de- 
ployments on ground almost impracticable for any manner 
of military manoeuvre, and where the horses of the volun- 
teers would have proved a great embarrassment ; endless 
coverts must have kept us in constant ignorance or un- 
easiness, as to the amount of his force ; an ambuscade 
might have been formed every mile. It may have been 
that he had calculated, with supposed certainty, our in- 
ability to overtake him east of the Mississippi ; a Avant of 
provisions may have been an obstacle ; may have ren- 
dered it impracticable to leave a large force ; — though he 
certainly had many horses (some of which were eaten) ; 
and a dozen good men could have effected the purpose. 

An ill-judged confidence of security is the stumbling- 
block of warfare. But there was certainly a great de- 
ficiency of natural abilities for war continually manifested 
by the Sacs. There has been many an Indian warrior — 



178 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

unless they have been greatly overrated in our histories 
— who could with their means and opportunities in this 
campaign, have made us pay dearly for every success. 
(Though doubtless had regulars been opposed to them at 
the passage of the Wisconsin, a fatal blow would, have 
been struck.) A Philip, a Guristersigo, a Tecumseh, a 
Keokuck or an letan, would have destroyed Galena ; — 
would have taken Fort Winnebago ; — would, on many 
occasions, have run off and captured the horses of the 
volunteers ; — would have taken or destroyed provision 
trains guarded by these gallant knights of the whip ; — 
and finally, would have brought to this pass, a force suffi- 
cient to have fully covered a retreat of their families and 
all their baggage, far beyond the Mississippi River ; if 
not to have inflicted a severe check to our arms. Very 
incapable Avould I have pronounced that captain of our 
army, who with a hundred men, could not have repeatedly 
thrown our army into great confusion, and have disputed 
for weeks the passage of these fifty miles. 

It was stated that the General, for the four days during 
which we contended against these dangerous obstacles, 
with the whole Sac force but a few miles in our front, 
was in a state of great anxiety and apprehension for the 
result ; and was anything but desirous of an opportunity 
of striking them on this ground. 

We emerged on the 31st from these gloomy forests into 
the gladsome light of the sun, in an open pine grove, on 
the bank of a fine little river, which we scarcely knew 
then to be the Kickapoo. No great change of circum- 
stances ever had a pleasanter effect upon the spirits of an 
army ; vast high prairies were before us ; the sun shone 
brightly, and gleamed from the crystal waves of the 
pretty river ; the refreshing prairie breeze whistled mer- 



IN THE ARMY. 179 

rily through the leaves of the pines ; there were indi- 
cations in the enemy's deserted camps, that we were close 
upon him ; and probabilities favored the belief that we 
would engage him on the prairies ; and in a fair field and 
open daylight, settle with him the long account. 

And here it must be confessed, that all were in pro- 
found ignorance of our whereabout ; as individuals, we 
were certainly all "lost;" and perhaps none knew the 
distance or direction of the nearest point of the Missis- 
sippi ; but as an army, we were in high spirits, and only 
wished to find the Indians whose trail we were on. 

Next morning we early commenced what promised to 
be a forced march ; our course lay over high prairies, 
with but little timber in view ; but they were broken 
by deep and abrupt, though grassy valleys; and in 
these ran streams and springs, bold, transparent, and of 
almost icy coldness ; beautiful brooks abounding with 
trout, which we could see everywhere darting about in 
frolicsome security. 

This march did indeed turn out to be a long and weary 
one of full twenty-five miles. We saw several corpses — 
in every-day dress — lying by the trail in the open prairie ; 
and where pack-horses had fallen exhausted, they had 
been slaughtered ; and nothing but the hoofs and the 
paunch were left. It was clear that the Indians had suf- 
fered from hunger ; but could not have famished, while 
they retained horses — as they did — to take oif much bag- 
gage. At sunset we arrived on the ground which they 
had that morning abandoned : the fires still smoked. 
Here I saw a dead warrior, who had been placed in a 
sitting posture, with his back to a tree ; he had been 
painted red as if going to war ; and — his arms folded — 
he seemed to bid us grim defiance even in death. Few 



180 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

might look on unmoved, — none could ever forget that 
dead warrior in his paint ! 

We learned that the magnanimous volunteers, being in 
advance and having discovered an old Indian in this camp, 
had extracted some information from him, and then coolly 
put him to death. 

An army which in summer encamps at the going down 
of the sun, eats dinner and supper together about 10 
o'clock at night ; at 11, on this occasion, we received 
orders to march at 2 o'clock in the morning. 



CHAPTEE XXV. 

After three or four hours of rest, we were roused on 
the 2d of August, and marched at dawn of day. The 
order for the early march had been received by the volun- 
teers after they had turned out their horses : this expla- 
nation was made of tlie circumstance that they did not 
march this morning for an hour or more after the mounted 
spies and infantry. 

The sun found us marching over very high prairie hills 
in view of a vast extent of country ; there was a mighty 
valley, and the forests of its lower level indicated the 
great river. Soon we saw a long and devious bank of 
fog rising white as snow in the sunshine, and evidently 
marking its course. A bright rosy summer morn shone 
over this scene of beauty and repose — as quiet and as 
peaceful as if man had never been there : at the creation, 
there could not have been less indication of his presence, 
save the measured tread of an armed band, speeding on 



IN THE ARMY. 181 

to awaken the echoes Avhich had slumbered fi'om eternity, 
to the sounds of confusion, strife, and bloodshed. 

Soon we saw a staff-officer gallop past towards the rear, 
and heard him report that the enemy was drawn up in the 
open woods in front to receive us ; immediately the men 
were ordered to leave their knapsacks, with the baggage, 
under a small guard ; and the infantry were formed in 
one line in extended order, and again advanced. 

Perhaps to the uninitiated no battle was ever intelligibly 
described ; and perhaps none such ever gathered from 
a description, aided by drawings, a clear and full idea of 
the manoeuvres and main incidents of a battle; — the great- 
est difficulty is to preserve the unities of time ; but in 
fact, it is beyond the power of genius — whose main attri- 
bute is expression — to express that which was never fully 
formed in idea. Let us consider the obstacles in the wa}'' 
of the commanding general, who must generally have 
much the best opportunity of seeing or conceiving all the 
acts and scenes of these great tragedies. First, the ex- 
tent of the lines — of the field of battle ; second, inter- 
vening woods and hills, which must almost always con- 
ceal much that occurs ; third, the smoke, the dust, and 
the distance ; fourth, the simultaneous occurrence of dis- 
tant and unconnected events, confused and complicated 
in their action ; fifth, the impossibility of conveying an 
idea of the shape of the ground : and then there are many 
difficulties in making his description (report) of what he 
has seen or conceived ; — a disinclination to tell the whole 
truth, which, in matters unimportant in the result, might 
be disagreeable to himself or others ; details might ren- 
der his narrative inelegant, or might establish a connec- 
tion between unpleasant causes and agreeable effects. 
How many actions are decided by the original acts of sub- 

16 



182 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

ordinates ! It is a merit in all commanders of corps to 
improve sudden opportunities or openings, which, it may 
be, there is not a possibility of the chief commander's 
seeing. 

As to those officers who are more engaged in the fight- 
ing, it is next to impossible that they can have even a gen- 
eral idea of proceedings beyond their immediate sphere. 

The General arranges and directs the first blows : but 
then amid the noise, the smoke, the dust — the thunder of 
cannon — the deafening rattle of small arms — the rushing 
of squadrons — the thousand commands, all uttered as 
loudly as possible ; — in a word, the darkness and confu- 
sion of the combat, generals, colonels, captains, and 
sometimes lieutenants, sergeants, and even privates them- 
selves, — all more or less act a part of their own ; — the 
soldier in battle, is something more than a mere machine. 

Gen. Henry Lee was a man of genius ; a good scholar, 
a fine perspicuous writer ; he had studied his profession, 
and was one of the best soldiers bred in the revolutionary 
war ; he commanded an independent legionary corps ; 
and yet he fails to give a definite idea of Greene's battles, 
in Avhich he acted a conspicuous part — and where only 
two or three thousand fought on a side. Gen. Greene 
gives his account of them in his reports : — his enemy a 
materially different one ; Lee differs from both ; whilst 
the editor of his work — his son — undertakes to correct 
Mm, and differs from all. 

The following is substantially an extract from the 
report of the skirmish which now occurred (2d August, 
1832), on the bank of the Mississippi, just below the 
mouth of the Bad-axe ; and which closed the " Black- 
Hawk war :" 

" And at dawn I marched with the regular troops under 



IN THE ARMY. 183 

Col. Taylor and Dodge's battalion, leaving Posey's, 
Alexander's, and Henry's brigades to follow, as they 
were not yet ready to mount — their horses being turned 
out in the evening before the order to march at 2 o'clock 
was received by them. After marching about three miles, 
the advance of Dodge's battalion under Capt. Dixon, 
came up with a small party of the enemy, attacked and 
killed eight of them, and dispersed the residue ; in the 
meantime, the troops then with me were formed in order 
of battle, the regulars in extended order, with three com- 
panies, held in reserve ; Dodge's battalion was formed on 
their left. The whole advanced to the front, expecting 
to meet the enemy in a wood before us — Posey's command 
soon came up, and was formed on the right of the regulars ; 
shortly after, Alexander's arrived, and was formed on the 
right of Posey — a position, at the time, considered of 
great importance, as it would intercept the enemy in an 
attempt to pass up the river. Not finding the enemy 
posted as anticipated, I detached Capt. Dixon, with a few 
of Dodge's spies to the left, to gain information, and at 
the same time sent one of my staff to hasten the march 
of Henry ; soon after, another was despatched with orders 
to him to march upon the enemy's trail, with one of the 
regiments of his brigade, and to hold the remainder in 
reserve ; finding the enemy to be in force in that direc- 
tion, his whole brigade was ordered upon that point. 
The order was promptly executed by the brigade, having 
in its advance the small body of spies under Dixon, who 
commenced the action, seconded simultaneously by Henry. 
" The enemy was driven across several sluices down the 
river bottom, which was covered with fallen timber, under- 
wood, and high grass : the regular troops, with Dodge at 
the head of his battalion, soon came up and joined in the 



184 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

action, followed by part of Posey's troops ; when the 
enemy was driven still further through the bottom to 
several small willow islands successively, Avhen much exe- 
cution was done. The main body of the enemy being in 
the bottom, and adjoining small islands, Alexander was 
ordered to move with his brigade to the point of action ; 
but from the distance of his position, he came up too late 
to participate in the combat, except two companies of his 
brigade, that had previously joined the brigade under 
Brigadier-General Henry. 

" The small body of spies of Dodge's battalion and 
Henry's brigade, from their earlier position, shared more 
largely in the combat than those who, from the distance 
they had to march, consequently, came late into the en- 
gagement. As soon as the enemy were slain and dis- 
lodged from the Willow Bars, the regular troops under 
Col. Taylor, and a company or two of volunteers were 
thrown on board of the steamboat Warrior that had just 
arrived, and were landed on two adjacent islands to scour 
them of the enemy, assisted by a detachment from Henry 
and Dodge's commands on the river bank. Some three 
or four Indians were found and killed." 

This report shows, that sometimes in military affairs, 
"the last shall be first;" as witness Henry's brigade: 
while " Capt. Dixon, with a few of Dodge's spies," were 
looking for the Indians, the line of regulars — who were 
in the utmost impatience — were halted in the open woods 
near the edge of the bluff, for more than half an hour (it 
seemed an age) : this was the ground where the Indian 
scouts, or rear guard, had been defeated and slain, as we 
saw. When we were at last ordered to advance, we threw 
ourselves down the high bluff, which was not quite per- 
pendicular ; and in the act of descending I saw the In- 



IN THE ARMY. 185 

dians below, scampering through the woods, and occa- 
sionally firing. After crossing on logs, and wading several 
sloughs, with a general discharge of firearms in our front, 
a halt was ordered, and a verj difficult change in the 
order of the column commenced ; for what purpose 
heaven does not know. During this strange delay, a staft- 
officer of this column — finding his words or advice had 
no good effect — went on, accompanied only by a bugler ; 
following a path Avhich soon led him to the river bank, he 
there found two mounted officers of high rank, of whom 
he inquired where the enemy was ? He was told in an 
island opposite, and was further informed, that the water 
was fordable ; this officer immediately ordered the bugler 
to sound " Relieve skirmishers ;" hoping thereby to attract 
the brigade of regulars : and soon after he saw it march- 
ing past 200 paces from the river ; he moved toward it, 
and with much difficulty made himself heard by its com- 
mander, to whom he gave his information ; after a slight 
pause, he was told " it was too late now" (he was afraid 
of another countermarch), but was advised to take in the 
reserve which followed. And on he went due south. The 
staff-officer succeeded in securing the reserve — three com- 
panies led by a major — whom he conducted to the bank, 
and jumped in ; and, though a tall man, found himself 
breast deep : the battalion threw themselves in after him, 
and waded to the island, where we lost five killed, and 
several wounded ; — the best set-off possible to the claim 
which the militia were inclined to make, that (in conse- 
quence of our long halt) they had done all the fighting. 
The army just then was not popular. 

In this island I rescued a little red Leila, whom I found 
in very uncomfortable circumstances. I felt some rising 

16* 



186 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

symptoms of romance ; but the fire, mud, and water, or 
rather I believe her complexion, soon cooled them, and I 
sent her by a safe hand to the rear. 

I was as much interested in a keen lad of a soldier (of 
the 6th), whom I had known of old, and had seen jump 
in upon a wolf at bay, when its eyes shone like balls of 
fire ; he had now picked up a glaring Indian sash, and 
put it on ; and behaving very gallantly, was probably 
mistaken for a captain, and was shot through. Six or 
eight weeks after receiving this dangerous Avound, he left 
a comfortable hospital without leave, and joined his regi- 
ment six hundred miles off ! 

And now, above the incessant roar of small arms, we 
heard booming over the waters, the discharge of artillery ; 
and lo ! the steamer Warrior came dashing on ! It was 
a complete surprise, and had a very fine effect ; we had 
not dreamed of a steamboat, wandering so long through 
unexplored swamps and forests, where nothing so bright 
as the idea of steam had ever entered ; nor had the party 
on the boat the slightest expectation of finding the army 
here. A captain went to the shore some distance below 
and waved a flag, when he was saluted with a discharge 
of grape, which covered him with a shower of limbs and 
leaves. 

The fog had stopped the boat, or the whole tribe would 
have been in our hands ; and wo had been unto them ! 
I saw a wounded infant wailing over the dry dugs of a 
slaughtered mother. 

At 3 o'clock, after breaking our fast with some crackers 
and butter, which we found aboard, the steamer was 
crowded with troops, and we steamed among the many 
islands, which result here from the mouths of two rivers 
— the loway being opposite; — and how well had Black 



IN THE ARMY. 187 

Hawk chosen his point of crossing, being destitute of 
transports. After dispensing grape and cannister right 
and left very impartially into the islands, we landed on 
the largest, and scoured it completely in extended order. 
Large numbers had evidently just left it ; but we found 
only two men, whom the cannonade had driven into the 
branches of large trees. Instantly without orders, the 
volunteers commenced firing, and a hundred guns were 
discharged at them ; I saw them drop from limb to limb, 
clinging — poor fellows — like squirrels ; or like the Indian 
in the "Last of the Mohicans." A fine young Meno- 
minee, who was by my side, ran forward, tomahawk up- 
raised, to obtain the Indian honor of first striking the 
dead — I lost sight of him ; — a few minutes after I saw 
him stretched upon the earth ; — he had been shot in the 
back by a militia friend! It was hard to realize ; a mo- 
ment before he was all life and animation, burning with 
hope and ambition ; now, there he lay with face to heaven, 
with no wound visible, — a noble form, and smiling coun- 
tenance — and but a clod of the earth ! 

He was buried with honors in the same grave with our 
soldiers. Our total loss was five killed, and eighteen 
wounded, including two officers ; that of the Indians was 
reported " about one hundred and fifty men killed" — forty 
women and children, seventy horses, &c. &c., captured. 



CHAPTER XXVL 

The poor Sacs and Foxes were now the martyrs of a 
peculiarity of nature, generally attributed to dogs, but 
common to men. They were going down hill, and might 



188 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

have looked out for bites or kicks. The Sioux followed 
them after this defeat, and slaughtered one hundred and 
forty ! The General very humanely issued orders to stop 
the further effusion of blood. 

It was singular, but 'tis true, that the regular brigade 
had been unaccompanied by an army surgeon, since the 
opening of the campaign ; a citizen physician alone at- 
tended us ; fortunately, in the Warrior, came up Surgeon 
B., who immediately had his hands full; and an Indian 
child with a broken arm or finger was turned over to our 
doctor, whose treatment of it was laughed at. 

It is to be hoped, that the women and children fell by 
random shots ; but it is certain that a frontiersman is not 
particular, when his blood is up, and a redskin in his 
power. 

The Sac band was broken up, root and branch ; with 
their horses, very much of their baggage was lost ; their 
valuable copper kettles; their knapsacks or "kits" of 
private effects ; even their sacred war-gourds, containing 
the teeth of the drum-head fish, were left on the ground ; 
a volunteer found $500 in specie in a bundle ; taken pro- 
bably from Stillman's men, in the saddle-bag retreat. 

The steamer Warrior returned to Prairie du Chien, and 
again came up, before we left the ground of the action : 
it brought up, among other rarities, a stray dentist from 
the East ; who gathered a rich harvest of teeth taken from 
the Indian dead ; — doubtless some very fine Eastern per- 
sonages now rejoice in savage ivories. 

Never was a fine-dressed man so out of place — not to 
say out of countenance, as another passenger, whom we 
saw tripping about over our dirty and rugged encamp- 
ment. It reminded one of the lordly messengers to Harry 
Percy : for, though few of us smarted with " wounds 



IN THE ARMY. 180 

grown cold," the " outer man" among us had suffered 
terribly from brier, brake, and bog. " I say, Fitz, what 

'critter' is that?" "It's Major 's nephew." "D — n 

Major ^'s nephew ; what business has such a thing 

here?" How very ridiculous is a dandy in the woods ! 

Would that a Carle Vernet could have sketched our 
Indian pony auction; — the background of this picture, 
a Mississippi bottom, for such a pencil, would prove a 
rare and worthy subject : but the student of the human 
countenance — of passion, of suffering, despair, could 
possibly never have such an opportunity as in some women 
prisoners which I saw. I shall never forget the unmiti- 
gated expression of despair in a face at the same time in 
some sense utterly impassible. I verily believe she heard 
or saw nothing around her ; her mind seemed to wander 
over a past and future, where all was blank or fearful. 

On the third or fourth day we embarked, nothing loth, 
on the Warrior, for Fort Crawford, about sixty miles 
below. We had several Winnebago Indians on board ; 
one I remember was a bit of a dandy, and had a taste for 
personal ornaments ; he wore, for instance, crooked over 
his forehead, the finger of a fellow savage, secured round 
his head by two strips of skin which had once connected 
it with a hand and arm. As we rounded to, at Prairie 
du Chien, we saw some dead bodies, which had floated 
sixty miles, when one of these fellows was so eager as to 
discharge a rifle-ball close by the faces of a row of us 
standing on the guard ; and among others, the General's, 
who exhibited a strong disposition to have him pitched 
overboard ; the patch struck and blistered an ofiicer's 
face. And then followed the exhibition of an awful 
specimen of human nature (if the nature of an old blood- 
thirsty squaw can justly be placed in that category) : we 



190 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

saw several canoe-loads of these red fiends contend in a 
race to reach these dead bodies, for the satisfaction of 
taking the sodden scalps of corpses four days in water. 

All knowledge being founded on experience and com- 
parison, I believe the Infinite beyond human conception ; 
but its nearest approach might be found in the contrast 
of a fair and refined woman to one of these hags; — one 
of these beastly excrescences of Nature, which for our 
sins, to teach the lesson of humility, or for some in- 
scrutable purpose of the Almighty, are suffered in some 
slight semblance of humanity, to exhibit on earth the 
deformity of sin and hell. 

We pitched our tents on the inhospitable sands M'hich 
here abound, and awaited as patiently as we might the 
progress of events. 

General Scott arrived with an aid. He had been sent 
from the East with a small division of regulars to reinforce 
and take command of the army in the field ; he had met 
with terrible disaster and loss from cholera, on the lakes ; 
and though not very distant at Chicago from our position 
at Koshkonong — when he announced to us his approach 
— he had magnanimously refrained from assuming a 
nominal command, which would have deprived General 
Atkinson of the credit of closing the war ; of which the 
impracticableness of the militia, and the intrinsic difii- 
culties of the campaign — for which no allowance was 
made by an impatient chieftain, wrought upon by the 
ignorance and criminal folly of demagogues — had thus 
well-nigh robbed him. 

Hundreds of brave soldiers fell before that terrible 
scourge, the cholera ; at that time many northern physi- 
cians confessed a total inability to afibrd relief. Gen. S. 
was on the lakes in a steamer crowded with troops, when 



IN THE ARMY. 101 

the pestilence raged among them ; and this confinement 
to a comfortless boat must have rendered it tenfold more 
trying ; surgeons and officers alike — all that were well — 
devoted themselves to the care of the sick. Thus to face 
deliberately inglorious death, to avert which no exertion 
of courage or abilities can avail, tests more severely 
heroism of character, than the fiery trials of war. 

The unavailing loss of so many good soldiers reminds 
me of the speech of an Indian. About ten years ago, 
the Pawnees of the Platte lost nearly half their popula- 
tion by the small-pox : they were visited by their agent, 
Major D., who witnessed the most horrible scenes. The 
poor wretches were utterly ignorant of any remedy or 
alleviation ; some sank themselves to the mouth in the 
river, and thus awaited the death which was hastened : 
the living could not always protect the dying and dead 
from the wolves ! Their chief. Capote Bleu, exclaimed to 
Major D., " Oh, my father how many glorious battles we 
might have fought, and not lost so many men !" 

My old Colonel and myself were destii>ed to another 
luckless adventure in our little tent on these treacherous 
sands. A violent storm of wind and rain rose one night, 
and aroused me by a severe blow on the head from a 
green ridge pole — and him, by blowing a wet tent in his 
face by way of counterpane. We thought it after mid- 
night, and the prospect was blue enough. The Colonel 
fumbled for his cigars, and swore he "would smoke off the 
rest of the night (the Colonel was a smoker). " It will 
never do," said I. " But it must do ; we could never 
raise a light. Confound that tent pin! William!" 
(William, lucky dog, was at the fort, of course, gambling.) 

"But we could find our way to the barge." 

" D — n the barge — not military — we should break our 



1;)2 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

necks or be drowned. I tell you, sir, I shall sit here and 
smoke till morning." (The Colonel was a little Turkish 
in his philosophy.) I left him, not to his fate, but to 
seek the steamboat barge. After running over a sentinel 
(I forgot my own countersign), and falling down a sand- 
bank, I gained at length the barge cabin, when I found 
it was only ten o'clock. I ordered a berth prepared, and 
returned with a decanter of brandy ; meeting with no 
difficulty in finding the Colonel, who was puffing away 
at a segar, which blazed like a beacon ; my report, and 
the first fruits of my success, so mollified the old gentle- 
man, that he sufiered himself to be conducted to a com- 
fortable bed. 

Soon after, the regulars moved by steamboat to Fort 
Armstrong on Rock Island, where they encamped. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Here, after a short interval of rest and comfort, we 
were destined to face suffering and death in new forms, 
and infinitely more trying than any other to which we 
had been exposed. By the approach of the remnants of 
the eastern division, we were well convinced that we were 
to be exposed, and unnecessarily, to the fatal ravages of 
the cholera. In vain were arguments multiplied, as to 
non-contagion — conviction did not follow ; and all we 
could do was to resign ourselves with what grace we 
might, into the hands of fate. After the pestilence had 
exhausted itself among these troops, they had been put 



IN THE ARMY. 193 

in motion across the prairies for this post ; when, the 
campaign being over, they could serve to swell the com- 
mand of the new general commanding, and add to the 
pageant of the treaty, or settlement of the affairs of the 
now subdued and humbled Sac band. 

They came ; and soon after their arrival, the terrible 
disease broke out with new virulence ; it was uncon- 
trolled ; there was no shield from the danger ; science con- 
fessed itself at naught ; temperance shrank appalled at 
its impotence, while drunkenness and exposure met swift 
destruction ; all felt its effects ; but to be seriously at- 
tacked was certain death : the first forty died to a man. 
Fort Armstrong was converted into an hospital, whence 
all that entered were soon borne in carts, and thrown 
confusedly — just as they died, with or without the usual 
dress — into trenches, where a working party was in con- 
stant attendance ; and it is a fact that an officer in charge 
of it, making inquiry as to some delay on one occasion, 
was answered that there was a man who was moving, and 
they were waiting for him to die. Your messmate at 
breakfast — you heard with little concern for him — was 
buried at the going down of the sun. 

A calm, unappalled heart, — a moderate use of brandy, 
with an unchanged diet, were proved to be the best reli- 
ance of safety. The first sensible check to the ravages 
of the disease, was occasioned by a man's escape alive 
from the hospital, to which he returned, and died, a day 
or two after ; his appearance in camp — terribly shaken, 
and half flayed as he was with rubbing — by restoring 
confidence, had undoubtedly a most salutary effect. 

'Tis strange how soon in such scenes the heart of man 
becomes callous. Self-love dries up the sources of sym- 

17 



104 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

pathj, whicli under ordinary circumstances of bereave- 
ment, are ever ready to overflow. 

As I wandered one evening among the half deserted 
tents, I saw two friends, who, about to retire, were bath- 
ing their limbs with spirits, and bid a jesting defiance to 
the king of terrors. Over one the angel of death then 
hovered, and had marked him for his shaft ! Brave 
heart ! that night were you stricken in the pride of youth 
and promise ! 

I remarked that certain men who had spent much of 
their lives amid the trials and dangerous adventures of 
the farthest West, — men who, led into such scenes by 
their enterprise, and there hardened in their bravery, and 
schooled to meet the worst emergencies with calculating 
firmness, now, when exposed to the cholera, were among 
the most timid ; they found terrors in this new foe, which 
no bravery could defeat, nor skill could elude ; to which 
the accustomed discipline of their lives could offer no bar- 
rier. One of these, who bore a character for insensibility 
to danger, was offered a high-flown compliment which he 
did not appropriate : " Mr. G. you are the bravest of 
the brave ; you are under no obligation or restraint, 
and can fly if you choose ; but you do not." " General," 
— was the candid reply — " you are very much mistaken ; 
I am devilish afraid to stay here; but more afraid to run 
for it, for if I should be taken on the way, I should 
stand no chance." 

A certain Doctor from the mining districts, who hap- 
pened to arrive here, fancied that he had cured many 
cases of the cholera, and could do so again. Well, he 
had certainly brought his talent to a good market ; and 
General A. sent him with me to the hospital ; he went 
boldly in, and, doubtless, was very ingenious and con- 



IN THE ARMY. 195 

fident in his belief; but never was a poor fellow so sud- 
denly undeceived, or quickly induced to confess an error. 
He Avas aghast ; his nose seemed to grow blue, and his 
jaws to collapse ; the use of his feet and hands was alone 
preserved to him ; with one of the latter he seized his hat, 
with the other the door, and the benefits of his science 
were lost to us. 

He is not deep in human lore, who will be shocked and 
surprised to be told that ere these scenes had ceased, 
their impression could not prevent nights being passed 
by parties over cards and brandy, amid all the exposure 
of irregularity and dissipation in a cold tent. Care for 
self, or for others, could not prevent the recklessness 
which grows out of such circumstances. And what is 
there so terrible or so painful, to Avhich we do not soon 
become reconciled by force of custom ? 

General A. had offered a reward of twenty horses for 
Black Hawk ; and accordingly he was soon captured by 
some Winnebagocs ; and the old gentleman, with some other 
chief men, about this time came down in irons aboard a 
steamer. Great preparations were made to receive such 
distinguished personages ; but the managers of the steamer 
had no taste for the Rock Island latitude ; its atmosphere 
was not agreeable ; and after much puffing and backing 
in mid-river, they gave us the go-by, and were off for St. 
Louis. 

The Indian war and the cholera over, I felt a longing 
for other scenes. Fort Leavenworth again had attrac- 
tions ; and leaving the grand army to play its part at 
Indian councils, and to witness the usual one-sided treaty 
(in which the Sacs and Foxes ceded the best slice of Iowa 
territory as an indemnity for the expense and trouble of 



106 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

exterminating their friends, Black Hawk's band), in com- 
pany of some others, I took boat and departed. 

And now the accursed disease seemed to have spared 
me, when there was a chance of medical aid, only to seize 
me when there was none ; its symptoms fast grew upon 
me ; and there was not even a medicine-chest aboard. I 
hunted up some chance doses of medicine, and scraped 
out all that had the appearance of calomel, and swallowed 
it ; but to little purpose. I landed in St. Louis in rather 
a precarious condition ; one of the first persons I met in 
the streets was a physician, who was struck and seemed 
alarmed at my appearance ; he immediately prescribed 
an immoderate dose and sent me to bed. Next morning 
he repeated it ; he seemed bent upon trying his hand ; 
and probably thought, that, kill or cure, it would be well 
to put a period to symptoms of cholera in a city with a 
clean bill of health. 

However, I escaped from him and the disease, and 
quickly departed, having strictly charged a negro servant 
to burn all the woollen clothes which I had brought with 
me. This good intention his cupidity probably defeated, 
as I afterward accidentally learned he was one of the 
first victims to the visitation of the pestilence which soon 
followed us. 

Returning from my visit to Fort LeavenAvorth before 
the end of autumn, I once more found myself with new 
duties and old friends, at Jefferson Barracks ; a post, 
which the ever-varying policy of the government had 
shorn of its original glory, when it was a " school of in- 
struction" (rather a 7-eserve station) for several regiments, 
and had now cut down its garrison to a battalion of one. 

The society this winter was small ; and unfortunately 
some of it had found such attractions or connections at 



IN THE ARMY. 197 

St. Louis, as to destroy the unities of sentiment, motives, 
and pursuits, which constitute the happiness of a small 
community. 

The winter quietly passed, and with the spring of 1833 
new views, and the opening of a new career for some of 
us were the occasion of a severance of the old and happy 
ties of association and attachment to a regiment, whose 
fortunes for five years I had shared ; among whose mem- 
bers I had formed and enjoyed the warmest friendships. 
It seemed the signal for a general breaking up in that 
honored regiment. Not long after, many, weary of the 
inactivity of peace, or disgusted with mismanagement, 
favoritism, and the discredit thrown upon them from 
sources whence they should naturally look for support 
and encouragement — mortifications and evils which they 
shared with the army — resigned their commissions, and 
entered the lists with the active world around them ; and 
they failed not to meet with prizes ; among which may 
be mentioned the station of General-in-chief in a sister 
republic. Wherever our fortunes carry us, few will cease 
to cherish recollections of our ancient association as mem- 
bers of the 6th regiment of infantry ! And many have 
since shed their blood like water, and died upon the bat- 
tle-fields of Florida ; — their memories are embalmed in 
the hearts of their old comrades ! 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Early in the summer of 1833, I was among the hardy 
sons of West Tennessee, seeking to infuse an ardor for 
service in a new regiment of Cavalry, one destined, wo 

17* 



198 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

believed, to explore far and wide the Western Territory, 
and bear the arms of the Union into the country of many 
Indian tribes. It was a prospect that did not fail to ex- 
cite the enterprising and roving disposition of many fine 
young men, in that military State. 

Having previously met with indifferent success at Co- 
lumbia, Dover, and Clarksville, I purchased a horse at 
the last place, in order to ride into the western district ; 
having been advised to move in the " direction" of Rey- 
noldsburgh, visit Perryville, &c. There was no road 
to Reynoldsburgh ; but a candidate for Congress was kind 
enough to furnish me with a pencilled map for my guid- 
ance, in which he embodied a knowledge of by-paths 
gained in his electioneering explorations : he gave me 
also a letter of introduction to the hospitable Judge H. ; 
whose house, distant about forty miles, I expected to 
reach the first day. 

I found the country rugged and barren ; abounding in 
iron ore, with perhaps wood enough to smelt it ; in spite 
of the map, I repeatedly lost my way among paths scarcely 
discernible, on the hard and stony hills. Just as the sun, 
which had been all day obscured by sullen clouds, managed 
to give me a smile, as if to bid me good night, I had the 
good fortune I thought, to find a wagon road ; and which 
without consulting the cardinal points very closely, I 
struck into right merrily ; it soon led me to a rude dwell- 
ing, where I was informed that I was going exactly 
wrong ; with reluctant conviction I turned about and was 
soon lost again. It was fast growing dark, when I de- 
scended a hollow way which the woods rendered exceed- 
ingly obscure and dreary ; my hat was struck off by limbs, 
and I could but trust to my horse to keep the track ; it 
soon led to a large creek, which I forded ; but in going 



IN THE ARMY. 199 

out naturally missed the road ; and in attempting to as- 
cend the bank, myself and horse tumbled back in reversed 
order. I succeeded in leading him out, and encountered 
a high fence, which forced me to turn to the right or left. 
I took the right, which I found to be wrong : we scram- 
bled on through the brush between the fence and creek, 
until I heard the bark of a dog, and looking carefully, I 
espied a light very high and far to the left ; this light I 
resolved to make my polar star, and to go to it, despite 
of all obstacles ; the first was the fence, with lofty stakes 
and riders, which I patiently pulled to the ground and 
passed through ; then another — and another, I know 
not how many ; but each I laboriously overcame, 
ascending the while over ground, which I could but 
wish had been more smoothly cultivated. At last I 
reached a snug-looking house and sought admittance ; 
but, directed by the sweet sounds of a piano, I uncere- 
moniously pushed on into a parlor, and recognized the 
daughters of Judge H. I had lost my letter ; of which I 
informed the Judge, when he soon after came in, with a 
manner which indicated that I attached but little impor- 
tance to it, under the circumstances ; and related to him 
my own misfortunes and those of his fences ; Avith which 
I suppose — as an hospitable man and careful farmer — he 
equally sympathized. 

I certainly passed an agreeable evening : and listened 
to the sweet music of an accompaniment of the flute by 
the father to the piano of his daughter. 

My kind host, after a good breakfast next morning, 
gave me particular directions for my further journey, 
which, however, was not performed without being repeat- 
edly at a loss for my course. As the sun set, I found 
myself on the bank of the Tennessee River at Reynolds- 



200 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 

burgli, whose " direction" I had carefully sought for two 
days ; this I considered quite sufficient ; for a more mis- 
erable hamlet I never saw ; a half dozen houses com- 
posed it, and their occupants seemed victims to fevers ; 
the river, which gushes from the Virginia mountains in 
swift and beautiful streams, here, like a sickly sluggard, 
had lost its youthful promise ; but even the springs, I 
was told, are here poisonous ; I took boat, crossed the 
river, and slept in a tavern on the southern bank. 

The following day, by selecting such bridle paths as 
promised the best direction, I reached the neighborhood 
of Perryville, and slept in the log-house of a small far- 
mer ; Avho, like all his class in this country, entertained 
travellers without the expensive formality of a license and 
sign-board. 

Next morning early, I arrived in Perryville, the county 
seat of Perry County, and situated a few hundred paces 
from Tennessee River. Soon after, guided by a horrid 
cacophony to a brick court-house in the centre of this 
Avretched village, I there witnessed an astonishing scene. 
The room was filled — a stand of some elevation in the 
midst was occupied by a Baptist preacher, who addressed 
the audience in the most impassioned manner — ever turn- 
ing and inclining lowly his person to the dying cadence 
of his song : for in a kind of monotonous tune he de- 
livered himself of a wild rhapsody, of which the constantly 
repeated words, "morning star,". were almost alone in- 
telligible to me : but the painful part of the exhibition 
was, that he totally exhausted his voice or breath at every 
sentence which he sang out ; and caught it — as he raised 
his body — in a prolonged, shrill wheeze, like that of per- 
sons with the hooping-cough ; or like an exaggerated 
paroxysm in a broken-winded horse. I got no further 



IN THE ARMY. 201 

than the door ; and asking some one why they did not 
take the poor wretch away, I escaped, full of wonder that 
so many reasonable beings could complacently witness so 
painful an exhibition of disease and unintelligible fanati- 
cism. 

At my tavern I was duly installed, as a mark of dis- 
tinction, in a separate chamber ; this was a space about 
twelve feet square divided from a large loft, by a parti- 
tion of thin boards which reached a little higher than my 
head : above, was the roof, which proved a sorry protec- 
tion from the heat of a scorching sun. 

Terrible was a week's sojourn in Perryville. The only 
inhabitant who — by virtue of a title of lawyer — laid claim 
to intellectuality, was in reality a loafer ; he had by one 
act, established here a lasting reputation ; this solitary 
and distinguished achievement should be commemorated ; 
he had in some quarrel, thrown at his adversary's head a 
pitcher ! 

I once sought relief in a walk to the bank of the river ; 
but the sight and stench of its green slime caused a pre- 
cipitate retreat. I next tried gunning ; and returned 
covered with thousands of the almost invisible seed-tick. 
They could only be removed by undergoing the martyr- 
dom of a thorough fumigation by burning tobacco. 

But I succeeded in engaging some hardy recruits, 
Avhose imagination inflamed them with the thoughts of 
scouring the far prairies on fine horses, amid buffalo and 
strange Indians ; so much so, that they scarce listened to 
any discouraging particulars, which they would persuade 
themselves were only given for discouragement sake. A 
man's wishes can always blind and deceive him : these 
fellows, in some after moment of disappointment and dis- 



202 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

content, would be ready to accuse another of what their 
own folly had caused. 

I next visited the pretty village of Lexington, w^here I 
remained three days. The evening before my departure, 
in paying my bill, I perceived an extravagantly dishonest 
charge, made in consideration of my having endeavored 
to insist on a separate room. I gave mine host a piece 
of my mind, which led to some altercation. Immediately 
after, an elderly personage whom I had never seen before, 
called me to a private place, and saying nothing, very 
mysteriously commenced baring his breast, and directed 
my attention to certain scars, which there and elsewhere, 
told of many a wound ; upon my showing signs that his 
pantomime was a riddle, he found his tongue, and thus 
addressed me — " I came to this country, like you, young, 
fiery, and impatient ; and these are the consequences — 
take a friendly warning." Verb. sat. I had heard of 
" eloquent wounds," but perhaps never before had realized 
the full force of the expression. The morning after, I 
was to set out very early for Jackson : I was so much 
disturbed, long before daylight, by noise, that I arose and 
dressed myself. I discovered that it was made by a gen- 
tleman, who, it appeared, was on a circuit electioneering 
for the oflEice of brigadier-general ; he had taken the 
rather extraordinary method to recommend himself, of 
getting drunk before daylight : but as I afterwards found 
him a very intelligent person, I have no reason to doubt 
that he understood his own interest. 

It proved we were to travel the same road ; and pro- 
bably owing in a measure to some sympathy between our 
profession and pursuit, a kind of intimacy grew rapidly 
between us. As we rode oflf together before sunrise, we 
saw a splendid horse ridden at a little distance, which I 



IN THE ARMY. -08 

had before attempted to bargain for : the temptation 
was now strong, and my companion aggravated it. 
"Look at him, Lieut.," said he: "take him Lieut. — 
what's a few dollars ? I'll lend you the money, if you 
hav'n't it to spare," &c. &c. It was irresistible; and at 
sunrise of a Sunday morning — I grieve to say — ? changed 
saddles and bridles — and exchanged horses and purses, 
mine being much the heavier — and rode on my way 
rejoicing. 

At breakfast my new friend, from force of electioneer- 
ing habit, over-persuaded me to join him in a glass of 
whiskey, which our host recommended as particular ; say- 
ing, " Good G — , stranger, don't drink that, this is three 
weeks old;" — of a truth it was detestable; and proved I 
believe de trop for my companion ; for after riding a 
very little way, in a terribly hot morning, I observed him 
attentively examining the landmarks for a certain fine 
spring ; and his discourse turned upon the virtues and de- 
lights of cold water. 

In a sequestered spot, beneath the cool, dark shade of 
a noble forest, we found it ; and his praises were all faint 
in describing that glorious fountain. There it Avas before 
us, with its crystal and icy waters welling over the brim 
of a moss-grown gum ; delicious was the draught we took ! 
and renovating the bath to our fiery temples ! Had the 
romantic old De Leon found such a one in Florida, he had 
cried Eureka ! and asked no proof that the fountain of 
eternal youth Avas before him ! 

Much refreshed, we pursued our ride ; and after the 
privations of some weeks, my companion, without great 
difficulty, persuaded me to make a divergence of a few 
miles to the house of his father-in-law, who, I found, was 
the father of an old army friend. 



204 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

I spent there several very pleasant days ; it was a noble 
plantation, and had a most hospitable owner. At part- 
ing, my friend, the brigadier, and myself, exchanged 
tokens of our singularly commenced friendship, and have 
never since met. 

I found Jackson a lively, thriving little town : I ob- 
served it under the exciting circumstances of a Congres- 
sional election ; and the successful candidate was no other 
than the celebrated Davy Crockett. 

Having accomplished my mission, I set out on my horse 
for Nashville, and made the journey in three days. I 
spent about a week enjoying the hospitalities of this plea- 
sant and flourishing western city ; after which, with 
another officer, I departed in a keel-boat with our com- 
pany of recruits : this tedious mode of navigation was 
occasioned by the lowness of the water in the Cumber- 
land. At Paducah we took a steamboat for Jefferson 
Barracks, where we arrived without other incident than a 
detention and change of boat ; the consequence of a 
boiler being worn out : so much so, fortunately, that it 
would not bear a pressure sufficient to lead to a dangerous 
explosion. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Those persons who may at times have felt symptoms 
of envy at the fortunes of officers preferred to new regi- 
ments, might console themselves if they could but realize 
the amount of labor, care, and vexation, attendant upon 
the task of enlisting, organizing, disciplining, and instruct- 
ing a new corps, — of producing order from chaos : and 



IN THE ARMY. 205 

much tlie more with cavalry, where the amount of duty, 
instruction, and responsibility, may safely be considered 
as doubled in the comparison with infantry. And this, 
without consideration of the extraordinary fact, that 
cavalry tactics were unknown in the army ; and, with the 
whole theory and practical detail, were to be studiously 
acquired — in a manner invented — by officers, before they 
could teach others. 

It is not a little astonishing, that our government should 
have so long deprived the country and the army of the 
services of so very important an arm as the cavalry ; that 
it should have suffered all knowledge and experience of 
its organization, equipment, and manoeuvres to have be- 
come extinct. 

Circumstances have ever been unfavorable to a o-eneral 
and just appreciation of the power and importance of this 
arm of military organization. 

The insulation of Great Britain has been there an 
obstacle to a fair test of its uses and capacities ; which, 
otherwise, their fine breeds of horses would seem to have 
much favored. An inferiority in this respect, and other 
reasons which might be easily shown, caused it to be 
neglected in France and other nations of the continent ; 
while in Egypt, in Asia, and in the Ukraine, the nature ■ 
of the institutions have, for want of instruction and dis- 
cipline, rendered in some degree abortive the individual 
pre-eminence of their armed horsemen. (Not forgetting, 
however, that the Moslem cavalry conquered half the 
world, and were only checked at the gates of Vienna by 
the Polish cavalry of Sobieski.) 

In the decadency of chivalry, the first introduction and 
improvement of that essential arm of infantry (which in 
reality is the body, of which cavalry and horse artillery 

18 



206 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

are the arms), led to such extraordinary, though natural 
success, that in the progress of reaction — with the com- 
mon use of gunpowder — men naturally fell into an oppo- 
site extreme. 

The great warrior of this age perhaps over-estimated, 
in the comparison, the importance and effects of artillery, 
which he brought to great perfection. But in Egypt, the 
undisciplined Mamelukes extracted from him an exclama- 
tion of admiration ; and after a pause of far-reaching 
thought, he gave utterance to a deep regret that he could 
not render himself irresistible, by the command of such 
men, disciplmed ! 

But the discouragements to the excellence and use of 
British cavalry (which must be transported by sea, to be 
used), have not prevented the truth from forcing itself 
upon the minds of some of their officers ; and Col. Mit- 
chell, who, with all his prejudices against Napoleon and 
his warriors, and the use of the bayonet, may come to be 
considered a military reformer, has jyroved the irresistible 
though unappreciated power of cavalry. 

In support of these views, and of this assertion, I shall 
here give some extracts from Col. Mitchell's " Thoughts 
on Tactics," which may prove acceptable to the reader, 
Avho has not an opportunity to examine that interesting 
work. 

" Though cavalry formed, in general, the strength of 
the armies of the middle ages, yet as the genius of 
chivalry tended more to acts of individual prowess and 
exertion, than to combined efforts, from which striking 
results could alone be expected, -little or nothing is left to 
glean from that dark period. 

" The introduction of firearms, which by degrees brought 
infantry back to the field, diminished even the efficiency 
which the cavalry derived from the energy of knightly 



IN THE A 11 M Y. 207 

spirit and enterprise ; for they not only took to the use 
of the pistol and arquebuse, instead of the sword, their 
only arm of strength, but gradually covered themselves 
with such heavy armor, that a dray-horse alone could 
carry the weight of a man-at-arms completely accoutred. 
Thus mounted, the cuirassier was just able to sport his 
clumsy and unwieldy figure, as if for show, up and down 
the ranks of war, to exchange a few miserable pistol-shots, 
or, at most, to run a course, with lance in rest, over some 
hundred yards of perfectly level ground. 

" At the battle of Hohenfriedberg, the dragoon regi- 
ment of Baireuth drove over twenty-one battalions of 
infantry, took 4000 prisoners, 66 stands of colors, and 
five pieces of artillery — an action, of which Frederick 
says, truly enough, that it deserves to be written in letters 
of gold. At Zerndorff, Seidlitz decided the fate of the 
day, by hewing down with the cavalry the masses of Rus- 
sian infantry, before which the Prussian infantry had 
already lost ground ; thus gaining one of the most san- 
guinary victories of the Seven Years' War. At Rosbach, 
twenty squadrons,* led by the same heroic commander, 
headed and crossed the French line of march under cover 
of the hill that separated the two armies, wheeled up in 
front of the hostile columns, and then, 

' Like ocean's miglity swing, 
When heaving to the tempest's wing, 
They hurled them on tlie foe,' 

driving the whole of Sonbise's army, 50,000 strong, in 
utter 'confusion from the ground.' 

"'At the battle of Belgrade,' says this great soldier 
(Marshal Saxe), ' I saw two battalions cut to pieces in an 

* Three thousand men at most. 



208 SCENES AND ADVENTUUES 



instant. The affair happened in the following manner : A 
battalion of Lorraine, and one of Neuperg, were posted 
on a height that we called the battery ; and just where a 
breeze of wind dispersed a fog which had impeded our 
view, I observed these troops on the brow of the hill, 
separated from the rest of the army. Prince Eugene 
asked me if my sight was good, and who were the cava- 
liers coming round the hill? I replied, that they were a 
body of thirty or forty Turks. These men are lost, said 
the Prince, measuring the two battalions, though I could 
not perceive that they were attacked, or likely to be so, 
as I could not see what was beyond the hill. But I gal- 
loped towards it at full speed, and at the moment I 
arrived behind the colors of Neuperg's regiment, I saw 
both battalions make ready, come to the present, and, at 
thirty yards, fired a volley at a body of Turks who were 
rushing in upon them. The volley and the closing, were 
one and the same thing ; the two battalions had no time 
to fly, and were all sabred." 

" Combat of Avesne le Sec, Sept. 11th, 1793. 
" A corps of 8000 French, mostly infantry, having 
marched out of Cambray, in order to make a demonstra- 
tion in favor of Quesnoy, then hard pressed by the allies, 
Avere overtaken near the village of Avesne le Sec, by 
Prince Lichtenstein and Count Belgrade, at the head of 
four Austrian regiments of cavalry. The French, seeing 
that an action was inevitable, formed two large squares, 
between which they placed the whole of their artillery, 
consisting of twenty-guns, and thus posted, they firmly 
awaited the charge. The Austrians realized everything 
that could be expected from brave horsemen, for without 
awaiting the infantry and artillery, that were still far 
behind, they instantly charged, and though saluted with 



IX THE ARMY. 209 

grape by the French artillery, and received with a volley 
of musketry, fired at less than fifty yards, they overthrew 
Loth the squares at the first onset. Two thousand men 
were taken, and most of the others cut down, for only a 
few hundred stragglers reached Bouchain and Cambray ; 
the twenty guns, together with five stand of colors, also 
fell into the hands of the victors." Austrian loss, " only 
two officers and seventy-nine men." 

"Action of Villers-en-Couche, 24th April, 1793. 

" On the 23d of April, 1793, the French, to the num- 
ber of 15,000 men, advanced in three columns from Bou- 
chain towards the Salle. They were met on the following 
day by General Otto, at the head of ten British and four 
Austrian squadrons. While part of this force dispersed 
the French cavalry, four of the allied squadrons, two 
British and two Austrian, attacked the infantry, consist- 
ing of six battalions, Avho had formed themselves into an 
oblong square, broke them, killed and wounded nine hun- 
dred men, captured four hundred more, together with five 
pieces of cannon ; the allies themselves losing only ninety 
men in killed and wounded." 

" The following is the account he himself (Blucher, 
then colonel,) gives, in his journal of the campaigns of 
1794, of the affair near Kaiserslautern : ' As soon as I 
had assembled about eighty hussars and dragoons, I com- 
manded, march ! at the very time when the enemy's in- 
fantry, at least six hundred strong, were crossing the 
plain. The officer who commanded the enemy's batta- 
lion, showed much countenance ; he Avas on horseback, 
and kept his men well together. But nothing could in- 
timidate our brave horsemen ; we stormed in upon the 
enemy, and though he opposed us with the bayonet, and 
made a most determined resistance, we nevertheless broke 
- 18* 



210 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

in, &c.' " The entire of the French party "were either 
killed, Avounded, or taken." 

" Action of Garci-Hernandez, 23d July, 1812. 

" Captain Riegenstein, who commanded the second 
squadron, finding the French cavalry had already been 
defeated, and hearing of the gallant and successful charge 
made on one square of their infantry, proceeded immedi- 
ately to attack the other, which was as completely over- 
thrown as the first, and with considerably less loss — a 
brave example once set, soon finds followers." " In fol- 
lowing up this success, the third squadron, under Captain 
Marshall, together with half the squadron, came upon a 
third square of infantry. Victory ruled the hour, and 
these new foes were no sooner discovered than charged 
and broken." .... " Properly stated, the case stands 
thus : four squares of the best French infantry, for a 
rear-guard would, of course, be composed of the best 
troops, amounting at least to three thousand men, were 
attacked by three squadrons and a half of cavalry, that 
could not, at the most, count three hundred men, and 
three of the squares Avere defeated with a loss to the in- 
fantry of nearly two thousand men, while the victorious 
cavalry lost only one hundred men. 

" If the cavalry, in charging infantry, do their duty, 
one of three things must follow as a matter of course ; 
either they must fall by the fire of the musketry, be ar- 
rested by the bayonets, or they must overthrow the op- 
posing ranks. Now, without again reverting to the few 
musket-shots that tell, as shown in the first part of this 
essay, we know very well, that, to the utter astonishment 
of many officers present, entire volleys were fired at Water- 
loo and at Fuente-do-Guinaldo, wnthout apparently bring- 
ing down a man, however many might have been hit. We 



IN THE ARMY, 211 

also know, that not a single one of the enemy's horsemen 
perished on the bayonets of the kneeling ranks in either 
of these actions ; and it is, of course, perfectly evident, 
that a horse at full speed, if killed even by the projecting 
bayonets — which is possible, though not probable — must 
still, by his very influence, overthrow all the files opposed 
to him, and thus make an opening for those that follow. 

" It is no doubt a splendid sight, when bugle-sound and 
trumpet-clang send onward to the charge a gallant line 
of horsemen : their plumes wave, their sabres gleam, the 
very earth is shaken by the thunder of their horses' hoofs, 
and, like the tornado in its progress, they seem destined 
to carry everything before them in their way. But the 
infantry to be attacked is prepared ; the close and serried 
mass, bristling with arms, from which the fires of death 
are every moment expected to flash, is imposing ; and 
the motionless stillness, with which tried soldiers wait the 
attack, has an air of stern and confident resolve that is 
chilling to ordinary assailants. The horsemen, not ex- 
pecting to succeed, see only death before them ; and busy 
fancy pictures at such times, even to the most wretched, 
stores of future happiness about to be sacrificed in a 
hopeless contest. The heart cools, and the speed is 
gradually slackened, instead of being augmented as the 
charge advances. If the dread of dishonor still keeps the 
men from turning back, the belief in certain destruction 
also prevents them from going on ; but the middle way, 
so dear to mediocrity, whether of talent or of courage, is 
at hand, and no sooner does the firing begin than the 
whole of the plume-crested troop, vanquished before a 
shot has told, open to the right and left — fly, with bran- 
dished sabres, in wild confusion round the square, instead 
of rushing down upon it — receive the fire of four sides to 



212 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

avoid the fire of one, and, without striking a single blow 
for victory, resign with loss and disgrace a contest that, 
by courage and confidence, might have been successfully 
terminated at the expense of a few bayonet scratches. 

" I appeal to the officers who were present in the 
squares at Waterloo, Quatre Bras, and Guinaldo — whe- 
ther this is not an exact history of the best of the chai'ges 
made by the French cavalry in those memorable actions. 
I say the best charges ; for, on many occasions the horse- 
men actually halted, or turned, as soon as the fire began, 
leaving a few individuals to dash forward and shake their 
sabres at the adversaries with whom they dared not close. 
And yet this is called charging, and by such foolery is the 
power of the cavalry to be estimated, and the infantry of 
England, the gallant and the brave, must still trust for 
victory only to the chance of similar conduct on the part 
of future foes, instead of trusting to those high qualities, 
that, backed by an efficient system of tactics, would in- 
sure them success in every species of contest." — (From 
pages 76 to 107.) 

In no country of Europe, nor in Asia, can horses be 
so numerously and so cheaply supported as in the United 
States ; and our plains and prairies plainly indicate that 
cavalry is the most suitable military force. In the Revo- 
lutionary War we had a small force of admirable cavalry 
on the plains of the Carolinas, to oppose that of Tarleton, 
which was the terror of the Avhole country ; and it was of 
paramount importance. General Greene's celebrated re- 
treat before Earl Cornwallis, but for Lee's legionary 
corps, could scarcely have been attempted ; they were at 
once the shield and the right arm of his array. 

Whoever has studied the American military history, 
knows that cavalry have been the scourge and peculiar 



IN THE ARMY. 213 

dread of Indians. Not to mention the conquest of Mexi- 
co — how wonderful were the achievements of De Soto, 
Avith his little band of Cavaliers ! They outdo romance. 
He encountered numberless brave Indians, but his horses 
gave the victory. The Indians triumphed greatly more 
in the death of a horse, than of his armed rider. Infan- 
try never could have accomplished his march. 

Near the close of the war of the Revolution, the power- 
ful nation of Cherokees made an irruption into South 
Carolina. In "Lee's Memoirs of the War" we find the 
following account of its results : " Pickens followed the 
incursors into their own country, and having seen much 
and various service, judiciously determined to mount his 
detachment, adding the sword to the rifle and tomahawk. 
He well knew the force of cavalry, having felt it at the 
Cowpens, though it was then feebly exemplified by the 
enemy. Forming his mind upon experience, the straight 
road to truth, he wisely resolved to add to the arms, usual 
in Indian wars, the unusual one above mentioned. 

" In a few days he reached the country of the Indians, 
who, as is the practice among the uncivilized in all ages, 
ran to arms to oppose the invader, anxious to join issue 
in battle without delay. Pickens, with his accustomed 
diligence, took care to inform himself accurately of the 
designs and strength of the enemy ; and as soon as he 
had ascertained these important facts, advanced upon 
him. The rifle was only used while reconnoitering the 
hostile position. As soon as this was finished, he re- 
mounted his soldiers, and ordered a charge : with fury 
his brave warriors rushed forward, and the astonished 
Indians fled in dismay. Not only the novelty of the mode, 
which always has its influence, but the sense of his inca- 
pacity to resist horse, operated upon the flying forester. 



21-1: SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

" Pickens followed up his success, and killed forty Che- 
rokees, took a great number of prisoners of both sexes, 
and burned thirteen towns. He lost not a soldier, and 
had only two wounded. The sachems of the nation as- 
sembled in council ; and, thoroughly satisfied of their 
inability to contend against an enemy who added the 
speed of the horse to the skill and strength of man, they 
determined to implore forgiveness for the past, and never 
again to provoke the wrath of their triumphant foe." 
Page 383, to which there are the following notes : " John 
Rogers Clarke, colonel in the service of Virginia against 
our neighbors, the Indians in the Revolutionary War, was 
among our best soldiers, and better acquainted with the 
Indian warfare than any officer of the army. This gentle- 
man, after one of his campaigns, met in Richmond seve- 
ral of our cavalry officers, and devoted all his leisure in 
ascertaining from them the various uses to which horse 
were applied, as well as the manner of such application. 
The information he acquired determined him to introduce 
this species of force against the Indians, as that of all 
others the most effectual. 

" By himself, by Pickens, and lately by Wayne, was 
the accuracy of Clarke's opinion justified." 

" The Indians, when fighting with infantry, are very 
daring. This temper of mind results from his conscious- 
ness of his superior fleetness ; which, together with his 
better knowledge of woods, assures to him extrication out 
of difficulties, though desperate. This temper of mind is 
extinguished, when he finds he is to save himself from the 
pursuit of horse, and with its extinction fails that habitual 
boldness." 

I will only add, that, after all the terrible inflictions of 
the whites, the Indians have almost invariably expressed, in 



IN THE ARMY. 215 

two words, their sense of the most dreadful peculiarity of 
the superior race, in naming them — from the sabres — the 
"Lons: Knives." 



CHAPTER XXX. 

We found excellent stables at Jefferson Barracks, and 
everything convenient for the prosecution of our laborious 
undertaking ; and we looked forward with pleasant ardor 
to the formation of a uniform system of tactics, and of 
the various duties connected with this new arm of the 
service. No one dreamed that the government could waver 
in this obvious policy of concentration and quiet prepara- 
tion, so essential to these important objects ; (the more 
so, that many of the new appointments were not military 
men.) 

The result was, that, before all the companies were 
mounted, an order was received to march some five hun- 
dred miles, to Fort Gibson. 

******* 

If the reader will imagine six dreary months to have 
passed — so painful and cheerless that I shrink from re- 
viewing them progressively even in thought, — and will 
wing his mental flight over the rugged Ozark Range, 
he will find me beyond, under a canvas shade, on the 
verge of boundless prairies ; their cool green adorned 
with rich unknown flowers, and waving to the breeze, 
which had wandered, unobstructed by hill or forest, from 
the snowy summits of the Rocky Mountains. Thus, in 
the sweet month of May, 1834, I sat in my tent, giving 
the fresh impressions of the bleak interval, amid the 
pleasant scene to which I have introduced you. 



21G SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

I wrote as follows : 

" The distractions of a camp are so manifold, that it is 
an effort of no small fortitude to undertake a subject, 
which a feeling of slight, but just excitement, so fatal to 
comfort in this burning climate, clearly indicates will 
swell under my hands. 

" One of our first military writers has made the re- 
flection, in substance, that it costs more blood and 
treasure to defend a country by militia, than to maintain 
a standing army, sufficient at all times for its defence. 
This position I believe to be incontrovertible, and indeed 
unanswerable. Now, far be it from me to wish to make 
deductions unfavorable to the contrary policy, originating 
with the sages of our Revolution, adopted by the wisdom 
of their successors, and sanctioned by a nation's voice. 
But it stands an abstract truth, modified in practice by 
considerations which it is not my intention to discuss. 

" In 1829, owing to the absence of the garrison of Fort 
Leavenworth, — who were protecting the Mexican trade, — 
a necessity arose, owing to the conduct of the Iowa In- 
dians, of calling out the Missouri militia. In 1831, owing 
to the smallness of the regular force on the Upper Mis- 
sissippi, a large draft of Illinois militia were called into 
service. In 1832, under the same circumstances, about 
3000 mounted Illinois militia were for months in the field. 

" What amount of treasure has been thus expended, 
the guardians of the treasury can best answer : those 
conversant with militia claims, can perhaps estimate: — to 
what purpose, Avith what gain to the nation, military men 
might answer if they pleased ; but all conversant with 
figures can demonstrate that the militia operations of 
1832 cost a sum that would support the regiment of 
dragoons for ten years ; to say nothing of an immense 



IN THE ARMY. 217 

loss arising from a genera] neglect of business, more par- 
ticularly farming. Now, none can doubt that the regi- 
ment of dragoons, had it been then in existence, "would 
have prevented, or would have been fully competent to 
carry on this Sac war, without the aid of a single volun- 
teer, or even, perhaps, the regular infantry. 

" Guided by the sober light of experience, Congress, 
acquainted with the most prominent results of this course 
of affairs, and with the necessities of the emigrating 
system further south, have taken a course founded upon 
a very few simple principles of political economy. The 
first symptoms of the adoption of a true policy, was the 
passage, I believe, unanimously by the Senate, at two 
different sessions, of a bill to mount a portion of the in- 
fantry. Experience, here still in advance, made new de- 
mands on the witnesses of the proceedings of the Black 
Hawk campaign of 1832. Congress answered by the 
creation of a corps of mounted rangers. Of this corps 
(in justice not so formidable to its friends, as a certain 
brigade of Illinois volunteers of notorious memory), after 
a few remarks on its personnel, none more readily than 
myself would pronounce its requiescat in pace. 

" There was a time when our frontier's-men were the 
most formidable light-troops, — to speak technically, — 
that the sun ever shone upon. But what made them 
such ? The constant exercise of arms ; the stern neces- 
sity of untiring vigilance ; a capacity for endurance, 
resulting from ceaseless exercise and warlike toil. These 
prime requisites of the soldier were created amid scenes 
of real danger, whose experience exceeded infinitely any 
result of the drill, or the mimic war of regular soldiers, 
by which they are prepared to become veterans. These 
were the scenes of the ' dark and bloody ground,' and 

19 



2LS SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

these the actors, whose type was Daniel Boone (the sire 
of our worthy captain of dragoons). These were the 
unaided pioneers of an infant nation ; these were the 
antagonists of the untamed Indians of the woods ; who, 
singular enough, are as much more formidable than those 
of the prairies, as were the ancient Gauls and Britons 
than the slothful nations of the Asiatic plains. 

" Where, now, are we to look for such a class of men ? 
The government, gathering strength like a young giant, 
has taken these matters into its own hands. The strongest 
nations of Indians have been subdued to utter helpness- 
ness ; others, awed and controlled. They have felt the 
strong hand of the government over and among them ; 
they have been tamed. The infantry at outposts have 
long since succeeded to the heritage of border men. 
These last, from the slayers of Indians, have become the 
foes of timid deer ; from the hunters of the bear and 
panther, have degenerated to those of the playful squirrel. 

" But, it is the old-received, — once well-founded, — 
notions concerning this class, which naturally linger in 
the minds of a succeeding generation. To these we must 
look to account for the apparent preference of Congress 
for irregular troops, and their reluctance to substitute 
dragoons. It is on such foundations that, in moments of 
excitement, members have indulged the remark, that a 
company of men on the frontier are worth more than our 
whole army, ' composed of the sweepings of cities.' A 
twofold calumny ! That member had every opportunity 
of knowing, when he uttered it, that a regiment of in- 
fantry had been, for near ten years, stationed three 
hundred miles beyond the most remote settlements, in 
constant contact with the Indians. 

" Under these false impressions, did a certain honorable 



IN THE ARMY. 2l9 

and intelligent Senator from the West, state during the 
discussion of the Ranger bill, and the campaign of 1832, 
that the frontier men, then out in the field, soon destined 
some of them, to become rangers, were infinitv?ly supe- 
rior to the army, to the poor infantry (whom he would 
seem to reproach for not being mounted): that they could 
subsist themselves, ' be here to night, and fifty miles off 
by morning.' What must have been the feelings of 
officers on reading this, as they did, inactive in a wilder- 
ness — a swamp — delayed by these same boasted volun- 
teers, who had marched to a fort for provisions, — it being 
notorious that the}^ had thrown away their rations, to 
avoid the trouble of carrying them. 

" Convinced by the experience of late years, of the 
necessity of a mounted force, to cope with mounted and 
otiier Indians, Congress passed the bill to raise a regi- 
ment of dragoons, on the 2d of March, 1833. The 
officers were forthwith appointed from the infantry and 
mounted rangers. They were immediately ordered to 
recruit for the regiment, and were restricted in their en- 
listments to persons between twenty and thirty-five years 
of age ; native citizens who, from previous habits, were 
well qualified for mounted service. The officers were 
authorized to inform candidates for enlistment that they 
would be well clothed, and kept in comfortable quarters 
in winter. Five companies were soon completed and con- 
centrated at Jefferson Barracks. The recruits had gene- 
rally disposed of nearly all their clothing, in anticipation 
of their uniforms, on their arrival at that station. In 
this they were destined to be sadly disappointed. At the 
approach of winter, — in November, — before any clothing 
or their proper arms had been received ; before two com- 
panies had received their horses ; just at that season when 



220 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

all civilized, and, I believe, barbarous nations, even in a 
state of "war, suspend hostilities and go into winter 
(icJHiters, these five companies received an order to march 
out of theirs, — to take the field ! By great exertions, and 
numerous expedients, a quantity of clothing nearly suiS- 
cient to cover them, but of all qualities, colors, and 
patterns, was obtained. The march to Fort Gibson was 
commenced on the 20th of November. On the third day, 
they encountered a severe snow-storm. On the 14th of 
December, they reached their destination, having marched 
five hundred miles. Here they found no comfortable 
quarters, but passed a severe winter for any climate 
in tents ; the thermometer standing more than one day at 
8° below zero. There were of course no stables, and but 
very little corn, and the horses were of necessity turned 
loose to sustain a miserable existence on cane in an 
Arkansas bottom. 

"In what originated this march? Was any important 
public end to be attained ? Was it to repel an invading 
foe ? Was it to make a sudden and important attack 
upon a foreign enemy? Did the good of the service in 
any way call for it ? To these questions there is but one 
answer — No ! There has been assigned, as the only and 
great motive, that the corjys havmg been raised for the 
defence of the frontier, would be disbanded if it remained 
inactive so far in the interior as Jefferson Barracks. 
What ! has it come to this ? Has Congress so firmly 
established a character for illiberality, inconstancy of 
purpose, Avant of intelligence, that the true public inte- 
rest is to be sacrificed to appearances glossed for their 
eyes ? Is their ignorance of military affairs so great as 
to become a matter of calculation ? Is it attempted to 
flatter them with the possession of magical attributes ? — 



IN THE ARMY. £21 

that, at their mighty fiat, the laborious and tedious pro- 
cess of. enlisting, clothing, equipping — of discipline, of 
dismounted and the doubly difficult mounted drill, that 
has hitherto been considered the labor of a year, nay, of 
years, is all to be accomplished in a day ? It is difficult 
to say ; some mighty object has doubtless been in view ; 
for men have been caused to suffer such hardships as 
the defence of country and liberty has not always been 
sufficient inducement to endure. 

" The question may well be asked, has the Government 
of the United States constancy of purpose equal to the cre- 
ation of a single regiment of dragoons ? Our legislators 
must be aware that the officers appointed in the dragoons, 
were of necessity, infantry officers ; that they knew no- 
thing of the service of cavalry ; that time is necessary to 
overcome these difficulties, and the opportunity of peace. 
The service of cavalry had become with us a forgotten 
and unknown branch of military knowledge ; something 
to be read of, as we do of the Macedonian phalanx. 
There are but tAvo copies of cavalry tactics, founded on 
the system followed, in the possession of the dragoons : 
the officers have been drilled in squads, in order to teach 
the men. 

" Jefferson Barracks was doubtless originally selected as 
the station, Avhere the regiment was to be set up after a 
uniform system, before it was to be thrown into actual 
service, operating in detached bodies among widely scat- 
tered tribes of Indians. This might have been done 
nearly as well at an outpost, — if the people are really so 
anxious that their lot should be cast beyond the pale of 
civilization — and they would have been spared the disas- 
ters of a change of policy. 

""llome was not more rigid in exactions from her armies 
lit* 



222 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

and their commanders, than are the United States — this 
most pacific of nations ! Rome, whose very birth was 
amid the throes of a measure of military violence, whose 
population, wealth, and -power were, step by step, the 
growth of military success, whose fame and history are 
but military annals. Marius was thought to have taken 
the first great step towards the ruin of the republic, when 
he permitted the richest and most powerful citizens to 
serve by substitute in his African wars — the first instance 
recorded. Such a nation might well exact of its armies 
immediate action and success, when every individual had 
been raised to arms. 

" It is unnecessary further to waste words, on a subject 
that enforces conviction on every reflecting mind. The 
great change I have shown to have taken place in the cha- 
racter and habits of our frontiers-men, those pioneers of the 
civilized, was in part attributed to a corresponding change 
in the character of the Indians. But let it be here re- 
marked, that all those who have had the opportunity have 
observed, as a trait of character common to all Indians, 
that none so instinctively appreciate the advantages of re- 
gularity, obedience, &c., in regular troops ; it is appa- 
rently combined with a superstitious feeling, which inspires 
them with awe at the sight of a completeness and uni- 
formity, so superior to themselves, as to appear mysterious. 
Owing to this, and the great changes in the circumstances 
of the Indians, and our relations with them, it were 
easy to clearly demonstrate that the regiment of dragoons 
is better calculated for service among them than any 
irregular troops, even of the old border caste, did they 
now exist. In the first place, it is well known that the 
Indians, having been driven back generally to the plains, 
the prairies, act now almost universally on horseback ; of 



IN THE ARMY. 223 

course, all operations of attack against them must cor- 
respond ; now our border-men, rangers, &c., use their 
horses for the sole purpose of locomotion ; they dismount 
to use their rifles : thus encumbered with the preservation 
of their horses, it of course is left optional with the In- 
dians to attack him with advantage, or to avoid engage- 
ment by an indefinitely continued flight. But the main 
object of our troops, as I understand it, is in these times, 
to awe the Indians, — to prevent depredations and war ; 
and to repress their morbid inclinations for internal ag- 
gressions ; to preserve peace, and further the design of 
civilization. An irregular, ill-armed force, composed of 
individuals who have never acknowledged the common re- 
straints of society ; who confound insubordination with a 
boasted equality ; who cannot endure the wholesome 
action of discipline, or even obedience, cannot be con- 
sidered comparable for these objects, with a force whose 
perfect discipline insures an absence of all off"ensive irre- 
gularities, whose complete and perfect arms are the 
tokens of strength ; whose accurate evolutions, respond- 
ing to a guiding will, are emblematic of power ; whose 
very uniforms have an imposing moral effect, investing 
them to Indian eyes, with the character of direct repre- 
sentatives of a great nation which they dfead. 

" It has been intimated in the national legislature, that 
the dragoons can and must build quarters and stables. 
There seems to exist a great want of information on every 
point of this subject. Now every officer of dragoons, 
every intelligent man acquainted with cavalry service, 
will unhesitatingly pronounce, from the force of an ho- 
nest conviction, that this is impracticable, without great 
deterioration, beside a total loss of their services for the 
time being. Do gentlemen reflect that tiic dragoon is 



224: SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

almost constantly occupied with the care of his horse ? 
of the horses of the sick ? of absentees from all causes ? 
and until stables are built, his horse is tenfold an object 
of attention ? To come to facts at once ; — the dragoon 
horses at this post are held out to graze the half of each 
day. This, with watering, grooming, and feeding, the 
care of his various accoutrements and arms, and the drill- 
ing absolutely necessary to keep up but a moderate de- 
gree of perfection in his duties, occupies nearly every 
moment of the time of a dragoon soldier. 

" The PERSONNEL of the army has heretofore been com- 
plained of; called 'the sweepings of cities,' &c. Young 
men, fit for the service required of dragoons, cannot be 
enlisted, with any such prospect of building, of hard labor, 
held out. If they are inclined to work, they can easily 
obtain at home double and treble the wages of dragoons. 
Some experience has been had on this point ; and it was 
readily discovered, that the main, if not sole inducements 
of those enlisted, were a craving for excitement, and ro- 
mantic notions of the far West, &c., operating upon enter- 
prising, roving inclinations. 

" The Regiment of Dragoons has had, so to speak, had 
luck ; which on some points is a charitable conclusion. 
The winter at Fort Gibson has been one of unexampled 
severity ;" the corn crop of last season had been swept 
away by an unparalleled rise of the Arkansas River. 
This was, however, or might have been, known before 
they were sent here. 

" The river has been this spring, and is now, unusually 
low. Some of the clothing arrived in February ; after 
having been, with the sabres and pistols, sunk in a steam- 
boat. The guns made for the dragoons, and some of the 
clothing, have not yet arrived. Their sabres and i)it>to]s 



IN THE ARMY. 225 

are not those intended for the regiment ; but of a very 
rough, inferior quality." 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

The other five companies of the regiment were enlisted 
in the course of the winter, and afterward organized at 
Jefferson Barracks. They were then marched to join us 
at Fort Gibson ; they arrived in June ; and were hurried " 
off like the others, on the 18th of the month, quite un- 
prepared for an expedition. Nevertheless the regiment 
marched full six weeks too late, when it is considered that 
we were to traverse the burning plains of the South : and 
the thermometer having previously risen to 105° in the 
shade, there was every prospect of a summer of unex- 
ampled heat. 

It is painful to dwell on this subject. Nature would 
seem to have conspired with an imbecile military admin- 
istration for the destruction of the regiment. On, on they 
marched, over the parched plains whence all moisture had 
shrunk, as from the touch of fire ; their martial pomp 
and show dwindled to a dusty speck in the midst of a 
boundless plain ; disease and death struck them as they 
moved ; with the false mirage ever in view, with glassy 
eyes, and parched tongues, they seemed upon a sea of 
fire. They marched on, leaving three-fourths of their 
number stretched by disease in many sick camps ; there, 
not only destitute of every comfort, but exposed with 
burning fevers to the horrors of the unnatural heat — it 
was the death of hope. The horses too were lost by 



226 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

scores. In one sick camp, they were in great danger of 
massacre by a horde of Camanche Indians, who had esta- 
blished themselves near by ; and were in all probability 
only saved by the judgment and determination of the offi- 
cer in command, the lamented Izard : and he was fortu- 
nately indebted to his experience on the Santa Fe expe- 
dition. In the face of overwhelming numbers, he kept 
every man who could possibly bear arms on constant 
guard : and opposed at the point of the bayonet the pas- 
sage of a single Indian over their slight breastwork. He 
knew the influence of dauntless boldness over Indians, 
who dread every loss, and seek the attainment of their 
ends by cunning and management : thus on friendly pre- 
tences they sought admittance singly, with a view gra- 
dually to obtain the power to crush the small force at a 
blow. 

General Leavenworth and his aid stopped. They both 
lost their lives. Colonel Dodge, with 150 of the hardiest 
constitutions, persevered and overcame every obstacle ; 
they reached the Tow-e-ash village, in a picturesque val- 
ley, amid mountainous precipices and rocks ; such he dis- 
covered to be the name of a numerous tribe, who alto- 
together with Camanches, Kiawas, and Arrapahoes had 
hitherto been confounded under the name of Pawnees. 

There, perhaps within the boundary of Mexico, was 
made this first though feeble demonstration of the power 
and ubiquity of the white man. Some breath was ex- 
pended in an effort to mediate peace between these wan- 
dering savage robbers and their red neighbors of our 
border ; as availing as it would be to attempt to establish 
a truce between the howling wolf of the prairie and his 
prey. 

But in return for two female prisoners which the Osages 



IN THE A 11 MY, 227 

had captured, and by some accident had not killed, and 
which we carried with us, the expedition had the merit 
of rescuing from barbai'ism and restoring to his mother, a 
lad whom the Tow-e-ash had captured a year before. On 
that occasion the Indians had killed his father, a Judge 
Martin ; who thus paid the forfeit of a very vagrant dis- 
position, which must have led him to intrude upon these 
savao-e regions. 

The shattered and half famished remnants of the regi- 
ment were gathered together at Fort Gibson, in August. 
The thermometer had risen in the shade to 114°. There, 
in tents and neglected, many more suffered and died. 
After a short breathing-time, the larger portion of the- 
regiment marched for two other posts, distant many hun- 
dred miles, on the Missouri and Upper Mississippi ; and 
this last, they had to establish and build. Thus, in three 
distant positions, the reader must imagine that the squad- 
rons of this illtreated regiment, found some leisure to 
invent and practise as many different systems of tactics 
and duty. 



PART II. 



CHAPTER I. 

Oh reader ! " gentle" or not, — I care not a whit, — so 
you are honest — I will tell you a secret. I write not to 
be read, and I swear never even to transcribe for your 
benefit, — unless I change my mind. All I want is a 
good listener ; I want to converse with you ; and if you 
are absolutely dumb, why I will sometimes answer for 
you. 

Hundreds go and come at my word; none are my 
"equals," so none are my social friends. I have much 
to do ; very much ; — if I nod at my post, some one, or 
some interest suffers ; — nevertheless, the race of hermits 
is extinct, and man requires companionship ; there are 
some moments unoccupied, sometimes even hours, and you 
shall be my Friend, and I will talk to you. 

How dreary must be a great Commodore, 
Alone in the cabin of a seventy-four ! 

Be not alarmed ! I make a rhyme but once a year ; 
the idea came in that shape, and you must take it as it 
comes. 

Oh, wide and flat, — shall I say " stale and unprofit- 
■ able" — prairies ! I have traversed thy loveliest and thy 



SCENES AND ADVENTURES. 229 

most desolate wilds for three lustres; and I am not weary 
of you^ but of the terribly monotonous jingle of the rusty 
accoutrements of Mars ! Here Venus never smiles ; nor 
Bacchus grins ; nor beams the intelligence of Mercury. 
Oh, gentle Herald, that I could fly with thee ! Well ! — 
a pretty salmagundi I shall have of it ! But amid my 
flights, I shall often be sober, serious, if not sublime. We 
will talk on all subjects, from the shape of a horseshoe 
to that of the slipper of the last favorite — say the " divine 
Fanny," from great battles, or Napier's splendid pictures 
of such, down to the obscurest point of the squad drill — 
from buffalo bulls to elfin sprites. 

" So," said he, "so there is not a bandit on the road ; 
we are going for nothing, — to wait on these ragged-rascal 
greasers. It will ruin the regiment ! There has been ex- 
pense enough for the trip already to break it down. I 
had rather be in the infantry." At that moment I was 
in a small prairie "island," "reposing from the noontide 
sultriness," reclining in that choice part of the shadow of 
a fine oak that the bole casts ; had been reading about 
the hot red rays of the sun not being reflected by the 
moon; — gazing listlessly through the gently rustling 
leaves into the sparkling depths of ether, and wondering 
why the sun himself could not dispense with some of these 
same red rays in such very hot weather. " Suffering for 
country," thus, in the easiest possible attitude, I could 
not grow angry, and the very idea of talking, tlien^ was 
heating; so I only thought. "Friend," thought I, "to 
obey orders is duty ; and it is honorable to do duty. 
I would not undertake to think for my superiors, if it 
distressed me so much. Doubtless, there is expense, and 
if you, and some others, had your way, you would try 
the experiment of feeding the regiment on a straw a day ; 

20 



230 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

!ind, gazing complacently on the skeleton, I doubt not 
you would expect praise or promotion for your services. 
I can even imagine you addressing twenty millions of 
people (who all eat meat three times a day) as follows : 
' Behold, how faithful a servant am I; how much expense 
I have spared in this terrible regiment of dragoons !' 
And the ' sovereigns' would growl out, ' You had plenty 
of money ; why did you spare anything to make them fat 
and efficient ; we want to be well served ; if we had no- 
ticed at all, we would have had several more regiments.' " 

Oh! ye hypocrites, — demagogues, — who swallow a 
million squandered on a fraudulent contract, or an East- 
ern palace, and strain at a cent for the protection and 
peace of the simple border States ! 

I received a letter from the old General, who said, " If 
in the discharge of this duty you should find rough and 
perilous work, the meritorious services of your officers, 
and your men, and yourself, shall be affectionately remem- 
bered by every true-hearted soldier and statesman of our 
country ; and more especially of those great and growing 
States of the Valley of the Mississippi, and more espe- 
cially by your General and friend." I read this to an- 
other : — "Meritorious services," said he, "to stag after 
these negro Mexicans ; what falsehood, what folly !" I was 
struck all aback. " Have you no merit in doing your 
duty ?" "No, none !" Oh, Truth ! thought I, how^ often 
wilt thou forsake the mighty, and choose companionship 
with folly ! Surely, a man will seldom estimate his own 
value too low. 

Where were we ? Did I not tell you, my prairie friend, 
we should talk '•'' de omnibus rebus et quibusdmn aliis.'" 
Do not be frightened at the latinity (I hope it is right). 
I seldom offend in that way, — I am like the " General" 
in this, and was never very deep beyond C?esnr. " Gene- 



IN THE ARMY. 231 

ral," said he, "you forgot the Latin;" the General took 
off his hat, made another bow to the multitude, " E 'plu- 
ribus unum, sine qua non /" — " That will do, General." 
So much for Major Downing. 

"Beyond Caesar !" What a singular schoolboy phrase 
for a soldier ! I take Caesar for my model in dealing with 
savages ; — seriously, he was the greatest warrior that 
ever lived — up to the period when Alexander Hamilton 
is reported to have said, " The greatest man that ever 
lived was Julius Ciesar." 

Where were we ? Where are we ? We are on a 
pretty hill near the spring and grove of a nameless 
tributary which meanders the beautiful valley of the 
Kansas River ; — a hundred miles from any place ; and 
it is in the dog days of 1843, and there have been three 
of the hottest I have felt ; the unusually light breeze has 
been right behind, and only felt in bringing with us our 
dust. "Dog days?" Oh Sirius ! thou brightest and 
nearest sun ; — the centre, — it may be of many a more 
happy planet, "more social and bright" than this; — 
how, bright star, didst thou get thy name ? 

Talking of the dog star, on the Santa Fe Road, re- 
minds me of a General, who, a longer time ago than I 
would care to tell a lady, sent an express to a command 
out here that I belonged to ; and when an old woman at 
Leavenworth remonstrated at the danger (the man was 
killed), replied: "No ! every Indian, from the Mississippi 
to the Rocky Mountains, shall tremble at my name." 
On hearing this, I made the following impromptu (the 
only one in my life) : 

" Immorlal man, brave General ! 

The darkling dog star at thy birth 
And fiery comet, — portents of fame. — 
Gave warning that thy awful name, 



232 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Uttered in wrath in valley plain, 
In echo should the mountains gain, 
To teach each man of Indian race, 
From river bank to mountain base. 
To Tremble ! 

The idea of puhlisliing a book is terrible ; no military 
reputation could stand it ; wo, who of all things, seek 
distinction, should be most careful how we mingle with the 
vulgar herd of — book makers ! But, if some "kind friend" 
should ever introduce thus my scribblings unamended to 
the world, I warn him to trust them only to an artist of 
the press; let one art help out another; not one in a thou- 
sand can venture in the guise of the " cheap literature" 
of the day, unless, indeed, it be a newspaper extra (sub- 
scribed for in advance). There is virtue in fair wide 
margins, and pictorial embellishment. 

Truly, the Republic of Letters has become a rank 
democracy ! In the olden time when literature was more 
exclusive, none wrote who felt not the call, and the inspi- 
ration strong upon them ; and whatever is very difficult, 
and rouses the energies to accomplish it, is better done. 
Compare Eastern agriculture with that of the Great Val- 
ley ! Compare the flower gardens of Nashville (city of 
elegance and hospitality), which is built on a rock, with 
those of any city on a rich soil ! 

Friend. — But you were talking of books. 
" True, but I have none — Macaulay's Miscellanies, 
Stevens' new book, pshaw ! even my manual, Napier, 
were forgotten and left ; so it is necessary to make one ; 
that is, fill up with our conversations this blank bound 
' book.' " 

" After all, it would be ridiculous to publish Irving in 
the cheap form, in the brown paper style ; (won't the 



IN THE ARMY. 233 

time come, when a salesman will wrap up a parcel — say 
a pound of tea — in a new novel, thrown into the bargain?) 
They have spared Irving : his liquid sentences flowing 
through glittering margins of fairest typography, — to 
what can we compare them, but to a crystal streamlet 
purling amid flowery savannas and sweet shady groves ; 
and anon delving into cave-like clefts, — romantic recesses, 
where, of old, the fairies sought shelter from the glare of 
day. "And the smooth surface of the Bay presented a 
polished mirror in which Nature saw herself and smiled." 
Were I an Eastern monarch, — who had stuffed the mouths 
of poets with sugar and gold — how could I have rewarded 
such a writer ? 

" Could all the private wealth of England, — could all 
the hands of Birmingham and Manchester multiply the 
' Last of the Barons,' for instance, as in the days of the 
polished and literary Greeks — in manuscript — to equal 
one week's supply ! Published in London — and in two 
months a wanderer in the Rocky Mountains will pass the 
sultry noon, poring over its pages! Oh, Steam !" 

Friend. — Let us take a walk. 

" With all my heart. 

"Behold! the prairie, which late I saw in its fresh 
and budding, yet immature beauties, has now put on a 
golden garniture ; and its green velvet is decked as with 
precious stones ; the fair rose — like virgin's blushes — has 
faded from its cheek ; but here are its pink apples, that 
look like the cherry lips of beauty. Look at these mag- 
netic weeds ; from their young green leaves have sprung 
stout stalks as high as your head ; and they have put 
forth other leaves which point, or edge^ more truly to the 
poles, than the first ; they have a yellow flower. See 
these beautiful red blossoms — but here is the queen of 

20^ 



234 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

flowers ! a sensitive plant ; its leaves are as beautiful as 
diminutive ; and its tall stem is full of sweet flowers of 
the most delicate yellow ; it is the type of modest Beauty ! 
even its slender, smooth, translucent stem is pretty," 

Friejid. — What is this, so like the locust, but which 
seems a bush or shrub ? 

" I am convinced that it is the Mezquit ; which is 
not known to exist in our prairies ; their frequenters have 
no name for it that I have heard, except perhaps, ' bas- 
tard locust.' Here is the milkweed, with its small white 
blossom ; — and here the ' red-root ;' it makes a good 
tea ; soldiers all over the Far West know and use it. 
Yonder the prairie is golden with tall but miniature sun- 
flowers — how rough the dark green leaves ; turpentine 
is oozing from them, and from the stalk ; the polar plant 
is full of it too — it may be a species. At the joint here, 
you see a collection of white foam ; remove it, and there 
is an embryo fly ; — yes ; the true, troublesome horsefly ; 
look, it is no longer an egg, but the little wretch has mo- 
tion. Whence this moisture, and its mysterious continu- 
ance for days in the hot sun ? Was the plant punctured 
that it might flow out for the protection of the egg ? This 
turpentine seems necessary to produce horseflies ; the tri- 
angular looking earfly is hatched on young pines. 

" Botany — like all knowledge ennobling, what a trea- 
sure were it here ! But how many are there who pene- 
trate the pedantic surface? I care not for a little more 
or less. I knoAV that ' male and female created He' also 
the flowers and plants ; and I have seen some admirable 
hybrids. Ah ! if I could go forth with Zanoni, and could 
penetrate the hidden virtues and the vital mysteries of a 
single square foot of the boundless waste around, then 
could I rejoice above all other men!" 



IN THE ARMY. 235 

Friend. — You are wandering again. What could have 
caused that strange circle in the grass there ? — it is forty 
feet across, and, sure enough, it is of the rank sun-flower. 

" Why, my friend, if you were imaginative you could 
people- it with the fairies which have been frightened 
from the old continent by the clink of gold, and have 
here found refuge — pretty far too from the sound of dol- 
lars." 

Friend. — But seriously — it cannot be accident ; in fact, 
there are many of them ; could they have been caused by 
the circular dances of the Indian ! The desert here is 
scarce a refuge for them. 

" True ! — you remind me though, how one might have 
been caused if that weed is fond of Indian-trod ground. 
When the cholera, girding the unhappy earth, reached 
Council Blufts, a friend of mine was there and some 
Indians whom he knew ; — Big Elk, the distinguished chief 
of the Omahaws, and his party fled from the houses, where 
they saw it, to their native prairies, and fell upon this 
plan to puzzle the fiend — to throw him off" their trail. 
They trotted around in a circle of about this size, uttering 
songs and incantations, until they wore a path ; then, as 
agreed, one flew ofi" with a wide leap in a tangent, and 
with steps as ' few and far between' as possible, disap- 
peared ; soon after another at a difi"erent point made his 
eccentric exit; and so another and another — all — the 
brave and sagacious chief the last, fled howling over the 
far hill-tops — the pestilence fiend was bafiled and never 
found their trail." 

Friend. — But was I right ? Are these supposed to 
be memorials of the poor Indians ? 

" No ; — of their friends, the bufi"alo ; when the wolves 
audacious from famine, threaten the calves, their mothers 



28(3 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

hutklle them, and circle round on the defensive ; and thus 
stirring up the ground with their hoofs, excite the growth 
of particular weeds ; of this there is little doubt. So 
much for travelling for knowledge ! 

" But I am sure here is buffalo grass ! — it is indeed ; — 
quite a patch of it; — but close to the road where it may- 
be troddeyi : which seems a condition, I mean a proviso, 
of its growth. I thought there was none so far to the 
east; — but look into my 'journal' for that subject. The 
dew is falling fast — let us get some of those fine plums, 
and so end our walk." 



CHAPTER 11. 

Sept. 1. — A fine rapid clear stream this ! Six miles 
from Council Grove — famous as Council Bluffs. It is a 
tributary of Grand River, more prettily and distinctly 
called by its Indian name Neosho (water-white or clear ; 
the Indians, like the French, give you the adjective last). 

We will wait here in this shady grove, and let the 
horses eat the luxuriant wild pea-vine until the wagons 
come up. This baggage is to an army what a wife and 
children are to a man — a soldier at least — a necessity and 
a comfort, whilst a trouble and an embarrassment. 

Oh, my books ! my favorite authors, how I miss you ! 
My call is to "spirits from the vasty deep." Not even 
Shakspeare ; and Walter Scott, — what a camp library 
would his works be. Professedly an imitator of the great 
and philanthropic Edgeworth, he dated a new era, built 
up a new school, and then — ruined it: for he reduced 



IN THE ARMY. 287 

authorship to a trade. Yet, who can but admire his en- 
thusiasm of old age ; his faith (and industry) which did 
remove a mountain — of debt ! 

And James, his follower, — his almost rival in the race 
of usefulness and fame ; he never equalled Ivanhoe, but 
has written perhaps more books, and never descended to 
the level of Castle Dangerous and some others. The 
author of Attila and Philip Augustus must rank with the 
first. 

Friend. — Do you not think his Black Prince and Last 
of the Barons may be classed together, whether as his- 
torical or romantic ? 

" Decidedly so, without pronouncing on their compara- 
tive merits ; the last, though admirable, is too voluminous 
and heavy for a romance. Your remark might have been 
more just if the philosopher, his daughter, and her ple- 
beian lover had been left out ; and the work better for a 
more artistic unity." 

" And D'Israeli, the younger, the sparkler ! whose first 
book is his best and immortal. I read an odd volume of 
Vivian Grey every year. 

" And Lever ! — the bright coiner — so they say — of 
other men's ore ! 

" And Cooper ! the American Scott, who still more 
than his model, wrote his brain as dry as a broken ink- 
stand ! 

"And Willis! the Irving of 'periodical literature,' and 
the poet. 

"And thou, immortal creator of Little Nell! whose 
genius could make classical the name of Twist !" 

Friend. — He, too, founded a new school — of " serial" 
writers. 

" And it bids fair to complete the work of literary de- 



238 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

terioration. Oh, Dickens ! the Atlantic was thy Rubicon; 
on its broad waste thou didst shipwreck much fame and 
honor. Wonderful indeed that thou shouldst, in a day, 
turn two millions of admirers, friends, into despisers ! 
Whilst the arms of millions were outstretched to receive 
thee, and their eyes glistened with welcoming pleasure, 
in thy heart thou betrayedst them, and sold them to a 
publisher !" 

Friend. — A dip into a good author, old or new, is often 
a mental shower-bath ; it sets one's ideas in motion ; is in 
some sort a substitute for the active emulation of the 
world ! 

" But that is essential to real progress. Something 
may be learned from every one we meet ; an ox-driver 
may teach us some point of philosophy." 

■Friend. — Not mechanical philosophy; for all wagoners 
live and die in the belief that small fore-wheels make a 
wagon run lighter ! 

" By meeting and conversing with new people we gain 
new ideas, and are set a-thinking ; that is the greatest 
benefit of travel. It is the throwing the ideas and expe- 
rience of a multitude into a joint stock, that make such 
world wonders as London," 

Friend. — Allow me to say that you are to-day quite as 
interesting — as original. 

"•Well, shall we '■ talk prairie alone? Shall we discuss 
Avhether this beautiful purple flower, the bulbous root of 
which overflows with balsam, would bear transplanting into 
a flower-garden — a lady's bower ! No ? Well, give me 
another trial for something new on my subject. Man's 
improvement depends upon his being gregarious or not ; 
which circumstances control ; in Mexico, Peru, &c., where 
kinder climates multiplied the Indian, I attribute their 



IN THE ARMY. 239 

great advance in civilization solely to their living in 
crowds, villages, cities. Our sparse liunter-tribes seem 
incapable of improvement ; our own race, when they have 
fallen into the same circumstances, have grown barba- 
rous." 

Friend. — True enough, perhaps ; but New Mexico, to 
which you are wending your weary way, owes its name to 
its superiority, when discovered, to savage tribes to its 
south, which long kept back its Spanish colonizers; they 
were then manufacturers of cotton cloth, and in fact im- 
proved very little on the slight Spanish infusion to the 
date of this trade. 

" Which is of precious little advantage to any one else. 
I will give you a better than the usual answer to a 
stumper — ' the exception proves the rule.' Their circum- 
stances were very peculiar. Nearly isolated by wide 
deserts on every side, their arid and barren country only 
admitted the occupancy of valleys, where they must have 
congregated ; and, in fact, were found in villages ; ex- 
cluded from these shelters, wild animals were repelled 
from their country, and they then became, perforce, herds- 
men, instead of hunters. So much for these native 
Americans." 

Friend. — " Americans." Can that name continue to 
distinguish the citizens of the United States ? It has 
been suggested, that even now the name of the continent 
may be (and should justly be) changed to Columbia, and 
that we may thus secure our appropriate title. 

" It is impossible to give so general and pervading a 
motion to the human mind as to change the name of a 
continent ! Could vast bodies be easily set in motion, 
their momentum would soon overwhelm the Vv^orld ?" 



240 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Friend. — Are you reading there the Book of Regula- 
tions ? 

" Yes ; they are changed and added to so often that it 
seems no one pretends to know what they are. Here is 
something on courts-martial ; it is copied from the 
British." 

Friend. — Do young officers become your judges as well 
as jurors, by instinct ? I believe no examination into 
their qualifications is required before they are allowed to 
sit in judgment ? 

" No — it is a sore spot in our system. Something 
might be made of your idea." 

Friend. — The Attorney-General (or a Judge Advocate 
General), an Inspector General, and a Professor of 
Ethics, might make a good Board ? 

" We have no Judge Advocate General ; there is a 
Judge Advocate, I believe ; but there being no law for 
his appointment, he keeps as close as a mouse. I rather 
incline to a radical change ; the trial of all important 
cases by a kind of Circuit Court, of few members ; 
officers of rank and experience, selected and appointed 
to perform this duty exclusively for a term of years." 

To-day we arrived at Council Grove, and were re- 
ceived with "presented arms" by a company of dra- 
goons — which makes a fourth. What a collection of 
wagons ! there are hundreds, and nearly all have Mexi- 
can owners ; look at their men ! they show ivories as 
white as negroes ; they are Indians, but New Mexicans 
as well, and speak Spanish. There are herds of mules 
in every valley, on every hill, and hundreds of oxen too. 
It is unhealthy here ; many who have stayed a week are 
sick ; the dragoon company has been waiting three days, 
and they are already suffering. 



IN THE ARMY. 241 

The sun set this evening with a phenomenon of marvel- 
lous beauty ; from purple and blue clouds, gorgeously 
edged with gold, or rather celestial fire, shot up a "glory" 
— a fan of pencilled and colored light, expanded to the 
zenith ; and joining there, another in reflected symmetry 
converged to the eastern horizon ! 

Council Grove is a luxuriant, heavily timbered bottom 
of the Neosho, of about one hundred and sixty acres ; and 
there are several rather smaller in the vicinity. I can 
perceive no trace of fortifications, or other antiquities, 
which some fanciful writers have discovered here, though 
the ground is very uneven. It is a charming grove, 
though sombre ; for we love the contrast to the vast 
plain, hot and shadeless. 

Here we shall fairly launch into the green waste of the 
" Grand Prairie." Behind we have had a sparkling rivu- 
let every few miles. 

Friend. — Yes, far sweeter than this dark forest, fit 
haunt for Druids ! There, were bowers, fragrant Avith 
rich wild blossoms, vocal with the songs of birds ! Under 
their arching vines the eye enjoyed a picture where the 
light danced upon bright leaves, shaken by gentle airs, 
and which the smooth green hills and distant groves com- 
pleted ! 

" No fancy picture either ! But I am not in that vein. 
How long will the bowers, scanty though they be, escape 
the Vandal axe ? How long will law, the parchment de- 
fence of the weak red man, resist the Saxon ? I foresee 
that agriculture will soon make here its mark (and per- 
haps just here it may pause again). The migratory wave 
will extinguish the prairie fires, and corn-fields and young 
forests- will make these beautiful prairies a memory ! 

September 3. — Diamond Spring. A true " Diamond 

21 



2i2 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

of the Desert," a Pearl of the Prairie — were pearls but 
as transparent as its cold and crystal waters ! 

Friend. — You were too busy yesterday at the Grove 
to ride with me and enjoy the beautiful scenery; there is 
an unusual variety ; even rocky cliffs are not wanting. I 
saw, too, much wild flax, with its pretty blue blossoms, 
and sage, and sun-flowers twelve feet high, but with very 
small flowers. 

" Busy ! Sixteen hours of labor ! I only chanced to 
notice the extraordinary repetition of the same strange 
and beautiful sunset, but not so brilliant as the night 
before : lightnings played among the darker clouds, and 
with rolling thunders gave portent of the stormy night we 
had, and the slippery roads to-day." 

Friend. — Yes, truly, and when will all those five-ton 
wagons come up ? I saw, that in the midst of your work 
of organization, examining papers, writing last letters, 
&c., a committee of Mexican owners waited on you. 

" I told them that I must and would come to-day. 
Many of their men — half-starved wretches ! — are ill. It 
was time for action, to escape the malaria of those bot- 
toms which were lately overflowed. They said they had 
some expectation of meeting an escort, but that we would 
be well received, if we went to Santa Fe, which is more 
than doubtful." 

Cotton-wood Fork, Sept. 0. 

Marching this morning in a dense fog, about 7 o'clock, 
before the caravan, — as I thought — I soon discovered, 
like spectres, the dim outline of a seemingly endless co- 
lumn of wagons which had glided ahead of me ; nine 
miles it took me to get in front, on the well-beaten road. 

The breeze now rattles merrily overhead through the 



IN THE ARMY. 243 

tall cotton •\voods-\vhicli shade my tent ; the light clouds 
of the broken storm fly like shattered fleets before a gale ; 
now and then are heard distant cheers, or unearthly yells, 
and volleys of whip-cracks from the Mexicans, who are 
driving their overwoked mules up the steep bank at the 
ford. 

' I find Mr. Robidoux here, Avith a dozen light horse- 
carts ; he has a trading house three hundred miles beyond 
Santa Fe. The snow-storm of the 8th of last November 
fell upon him in this vicinity ; more than a hundred horses 
and mules perished, and indeed one man ; he had lost his 
only axe, or he could have cut down cotton-woods for 
food to save his animals. 

Robidoux undertakes to give me the boundaries of the 
buff'alo grass, which extends to the Missouri River, and 
within eighty miles of the State boundary ; he says, 
" that throughout New Mexico, where the buffalo do not 
keep it down, it grows a foot high ; his cattle and sheep 
live on it exclusively, and keep fat in winter ; and im- 
prove in size on the original breed; the mutton is superior 
in flavor to ours." 

This man prays for the annexation of New Mexico, as 
necessary to develop its mineral riches : he asserts, 
" that he knows districts where, for twenty miles, it is 
impossible to find a handful of dirt without gold." 

" Why in the world have you not made your fortune 
collecting it ?" 

" I sunk," he replied with a true Frenchman's shrug, 
" eiarht thousand dollar." 

September 8th. Friend. — You appear to be uncom- 
fortable ? 

" To ride in rain is common enough, and a man or 
woman either, can stand it without much inconvenience : 



241 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

but this cold September rain is doubly unpleasant, when the 
reflection is made that it is twenty miles to the first tree 
or bush for fuel, and that heavily laden wagons must bear 
one company ; but it is the villain musquitoes that fill the 
measure of ' discomfort ;' you perceive they take refuge 
from the rain within my greatcoat collar, and beneath 
the pent-house of my regulation visor, although it is not 
large enough to cover the end of my nose." 

Friend. — Perhaps they seek its atmosphere ? it looks 
fiery. 

" True : from yesterday's sun and high Avind. This 
' Turkey Creek,' which I left this morning, should have a 
truer name ; it is a cold and rainy place, without fuel, 
and no turkey or other living thing did I ever see there, 
save a squad of horse-stealing Indians, wdiich we once sur- 
prised at dark, after a forced march. Three months ago 
we had nearly frozen there in a rain ; and I observed last 
night, ' we shall not find it as cold here in September as 
in June,' when suddenl}^ a north wind belied me." 

Friend. — But this grumbling ! it is worse than your 
late discussions of mules, oxen, sheep — but above all 
buffalo grass ! 

" Bah ! one cannot sink the shop ; but you must know 
that this grass is my hobby. I have attempted to intro- 
duce it at the East. Yesterday's infamous roads and this 
rain are worst in the prospect of the great detention they 
will cause to the caravan ; it will prove equal, I fear, to 
the Walnut Creek loss of twelve days in June ; but now 
every hour counts, and is one nearer to frost- and snow." 

Friend. — You got some orders to go to Sante Fe and 
winter in the Rocky Mountains at your first camp ; was 
additional clothing all you sent back for ? 

" Sir, I saw how matters would go, and the moment I 



IN THE ARMY. 245 

"was put in charge, some twelve days beforehand, I took 
measures to double the outfit which had been ordered. 
I knew the Southern Department would not furnish an 
escort capable of relieving me. So, against advice and 

opinions of , and protesting quartermasters and other 

small fry, I kept my steady course." 

Friend. — But what if you had complied with the letter 
of the order ; which could only have been expected, con- 
sidering you had just come back from a long and tedious 
march, and with " worn down horses," as even those ac- 
quainted with such matters thought? 

" Nearly three-fourths of the horses are the same. 
But I will tell you what would have been the conse- 
quence — I should either have had to march back to 
Fort Leavenworth when I got the new order, and attempt 
to make a new outfit, or have come on and utterly failed 
of means to accomplish the objects of the expedition. I 
am now certain that the first alternative was impossible ; 
for as it was, I was just in time at Council Grove." 

Friend. — Well, failing to accomplish the object of the 
escort, you would have pointed to your orders ? 

"Yes, but success is the military test, touchstone, tal- 
isman ! If disaster had occurred, a thousand judges with 
goosequill in hand and printing press at elbow, — if they 
had noticed, — would have condemned me unheard : the sol- 
diers of a Republic have a narrow path to follow, and an- 
swer to two tribunals — the Government and the people." 

Friend. — What are these beautiful animals. 

" Antelopes — the first we have seen. There are four 
of them ; two are this year's fawns. What fidelity in 
brutes ! They are a family. It is here we first saw some 
in June, — I dare say they are the same." 

21* 



246 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Friend. — What singular tails ! They look like bunches 
of cotton as big as my hat. 

" It is two bunches or spots of white hair adjoining the 
tail which you see. They are a rare animal ; I have never 
seen them in the States ! they are the link between deer 
and goats." 

Friend. — Have you ever eaten their flesh ? 

" Often : it is venison with the least taste of mutton ; 
they are the fleetest of prairie animals ; but are so curi- 
ous, and so faithful to their young, that they are easily 
killed. An Indian brought one into our camp near 
here, in the summer, a singular-looking little pet, with 
a spoon-shaped nose and muzzle and a black tongue ; its 
bleat was exactly the note of a penny trumpet ; its legs of 
the size of your finger, ridiculously long ; but the eyes 
were beautiful as those of the gazelle ; it sucked sugar 
and water and flour; but we turned it loose." 

Friend. — It is a wonder how these young animals, not 
to say the old ones, escape the wolves. 

" It puzzles me ; the wolves cannot be numerous here ; 
even as much so as near the forts and settlements. Poor 
devils ! like the Indians, they follow the buftalo." 

Friend. — What ! are they their victims ? Will they 
attack a grown bufi'alo ? 

"Not in lyrosperity. I have observed numbers of 
the largest wolves familiarly mingled with bufi'alo, which 
were utterly careless of them ; but besides accident and 
sickness, how many are killed and crippled by hunters ! 
but when the wolves are famished, they do attack and kill 
stragglers; they eat also grasshoppers." 

Friend. — What a beautiful plant with the striped white 
and green fiowers ! 

" Those are the leaves ; the flower — look closer — is 



IN THE ARMY. 247 

diminutive and of a delicate white ; it is a species of milk- 
weed, and is called, I believe, the variegated euphorbia. 
But yonder is land to leeward, — as a sailor would say — 
(the flat, wet prairie is usually like the sea ; a little fur- 
ther on, and it is salty). It seems a city ! those white 
sand bluffs and forests mingled ; a beautiful city with 
spire and dome, and cottage too ! all white, and mingled 
with shade trees. How pleasant the first far-off view of 
the Arkansas ! for there are its hills of shifting, impal- 
pable sand. Those dark green spots far in front, are a 
few trees on the Little Arkansas : a big name, in fact, for 
a branch a few feet wide and inches deep ; it imitates the 
Crreat, however, and is treacherous at bottom." 

Friend. — Look at that gentleman ! he has an ague ; 
what a day, and what circumstances for a sick man ! 

" Bad enough ; I must force him to get into a wagon ; 
it is hard to make him give up : ho has caught the ac- 
cursed disease by his four nights at Council Grove. And 
that too puts a 2d Lieutenant in command of a squadron. 
I was years a Captain before I commanded one even on 
exercises." 

Friend. — That was pleasanter than this : and what is 
the honor here ? 

" Pleasure and honor are somewhat matters of imagi- 
nation or fashion ; but there is danger here ; — danger of 
dishonor, — that is, disaster, at least." 

Friend. — 'Fore Heaven ! what from ? Can't you see 
the ' ends of the earth,' and all a plain, naked as barren ? 

" You are a novice on the prairies, and I hope will re- 
main one, as to its dangers, whilst in my company ; but 
Cooper could tell you better than that. Why sir, an 
Indian Avill personate a wolf, and spy out your weak 
points over a distant swell of the seemingly level surface. 



243 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

In '29 it was so ; and we saw nothing — marching for 
months. Few would credit that there were human beings 
within a hundred miles. Well — one day four discharged 
men set out for home ; they had gone about twelve miles 
when they were surrounded and one slain on the spot. 
About that time, a little off our guard, the cattle were 
suffered to graze a mile from camp, when lo ! 500 Indians 
ready mounted sprang forth as from the earth and cap- 
tured most of the cattle and horses, slew a man, and 
were only beaten off by grape shot and our determined 
face. The prairie is very deceiving. Kendall tells of a 
chasm, 800 feet deep, and not very narrow, which they 
did not perceive in open prairie, until within a few yards." 

Friend. — I remember that ; it was on the unfortunate 
Texan expedition against Santa Fe. 

" Yes : they might easily have captured it, as there was 
great dissatisfaction against the government, if they had 
only had discipline. It shows the difference between the 
bravery of bowie-knife broils, and that high courage which 
supports one amid a long train of difficulties and disasters 
— Avhich braves the wear and tear of adverse circum- 
stances, famine, fatigue, and continual dangers : these 
only inspire the veteran with heroism ! They had one 
such among them. Armijo has confessed that he could 
have succeeded well backed by a hundred men ; or, as 
Robidoux said the other day, ' if they had fired three 
guns.' " 

Friend. — Is there no end to this trudge through mud 
and rain ? It seems to me we are always the same, — in 
the centre of a great circle of dank, flat, and changeless 
prairie. 

" I have been thinking very seriously to what this in- 
fernal march may lead us. 'Circle,' indeed ! and having 



IN THE ARMY. 249 

escaped from that of incessant fierce winds, we have duly 
fallen upon the ' third circle.' " 

" della piova, 



Elerna, maledetta, fredda a greve." 

Friend. — Of rain eternal, accursed, cold, and heavy — 
it is a wonder Dante left out the musquitos ! 

"Yes; but our Cerebus has three A Mwirec? wolfish 
throats which bark and howl at us." 

Friend. — Well, I think it won't do ; you have fetched 
hell too far. 

" Only come here in the dogdays, and if you can't 
imagine yourself around the edges of a more than poetical 
hell, it will be because the eternal Avinds are scorching, 
instead of cold." 

September 9. — All day it has rained again. We have 
been lying still, trying to keep dry and warm, on the bank of 
the Little Arkansas. There are a few green trees and 
bushes, but little fuel. Worst of all is the case of the 
poor horses — they are starving and freezing before our 
eyes, for the grass is very coarse and poor ; they have 
shrunk very sensibly in twenty-four hours. 

Fiercer and colder rages the storm ; faster pours the 
pitiless rain : it does us more injury than a forced march 
of sixty miles ; — and the traders ! where are they ? What 
obstacles are in their way ! What a great detention there 
must be ! 

Late at night. — The cold north wind, laden with cease- 
less rain, moans dismally through the dank cotton-woods : 
dark, deep beneath, through its slimy banks creeps the 
sullen stream ; the earth, our bed, is soaked ; the tall, 
rank grass seems to wail to the watery blasts. 'Twas 
here that a cry to God, wrested by human fiends from a 



250 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

brother man, fell unanswered, — echoless on the desert 
air. It was here, in this solemn wilderness, where man, 
it would seem of necessity, must sympathize with his 
fellow, — that human beings, eight or ten, fell upon a 
friendless one, and for vile pelf slew him ! Here, without 
a tear, a word, a look of human sympathy, was poor 
Charvis deliberately murdered. The famished howling 
wolves do not tear their kind ! Ah ! it was enough to 
freeze into palpable shape the ministering spirits of the 
air. Oh ! methinks I hear Ids spirit moaning in the mid- 
night storm. Yes, moaning for his kind. One tear of 
sympathy ! there, you have it ! — may your spirit rest. 

Oh ! how much better to die thus, than that there 
should enter into the soul, the hell which must accompany 
the conception of such a deed ! 



CHAPTER III. 

September 11. — If " time waits for no man," heaven 
knows what this chronic rain stays for. We wait on it ; 
but if anathema or any kind of curses, sacred or profane, 
could avail, it had inevitably gone to — the driest place we 
read of. 

A squadron of dragoons came last evening from the 
South ; according to their order, to relieve us ; but they 
are broken down and on the back track. Having pretty 
thoroughly exhausted the prairie plum crop, and the 
buffalo being washed away to far hilltops — they were now 
prone to the land of pork and beans. 

What with inspections, reorganizations, writing reports, 
kc.y I have worked sixteen hours to-day ; and it is the 



IN THE ARMY. 2ol 

least in the world singular, that I should be now writing 
for my own amusement ; for any other's, quite absurd ! 
There must be something dry about it for recommenda- 
tion. Oh ! expressive and honest Saxon monosyllable ! 
— dry ! — thy very sound is pleasing — the idea rapturous ! 
Only think, though it he extravagant, at this hour of in- 
evitable repose, of a dry blanket ! think too of dry wine ! 

September 12. — Even until this morning did the cold 
rainy weather hold out. Now, it is gloriously clear, and 
the wind settled at the northwest. The Falstaff company 
have gone, except a platoon I have retained ; and after a 
general forced contribution, one of them lacks a wool 
jacket. 

This is the fifth day that the caravan has been coming 
forty-three miles, and I know not where they are, but 
have sent to see. 

I set all hands to drilling this morning, and took an 
invigorating gallop along the bluff tops of the Little Ar- 
kansas ; beautifully fresh and green looked the groves and 
trees on its banks. But ah, the killing frost must soon 
come ; and then, where shall we be ? 

Strange, indeed, that of ten young officers, not one 
brought a Don Juan into the wilderness. Is it possible 
that already the torrent of steam literature has cast 
Byron into the drift ? How many verses of the sublime, 
of the beautiful, — of love, of hate, of joy and grief, of 
pathos and most comic bathos, does that name bring 
crowding on my memory. 

How wonderful is the contrast of true greatness and 
even sublime genius. Washington stood among mankind 
as the Apollo among statues. No other man has ex- 
hibited his perfect proportion, his sublime symmetry of 
character, of public and private virtues, of mind, manner, 



'^•>Z SCENES AND ADVEN TURKS 

and person. (Too perfect, I imagine, for the sympathy 
of human love.) 

September 14. — Owl Creek. A bright noonday, a 
fresh breeze rattling among the shining green leaves over- 
head, belie the ill-omened name. 

Having built for them a causeway, the traders have 
managed to bring up to the Little Arkansas about one- 
fourth of their wagons : forty-three miles in six days ! 
A wintry prospect. 

Friend. — You have neglected me since your wew friends 
have come. 

"Excuse me; they have helped much; two came at 
Council Grove, and two more the other day; and men 
with heads. But, in truth, this inactivity stagnates my 
faculties ; and you forget I have still newspapers to read. 
I am bringing up, as from daily mails, the daily news of 
some two weeks, which I had not time to read at the 
Fort. I have them snug in layers — strata — as to date 
and character too. What a study — if one stopped to 
study — a detailed history of the world for a fortnight ! 
One hour I read the National Intelligencer, full of san- 
guine Whiggery — grave, dignified, with an occasional 
streak of cream in an ocean of milk and water. In the 
next, I am attentively perusing the abusive, yet vigorous, 
the self-important Globe, which has got a way of late of 
frequently stumbling upon truths. Again, I am absorbed 
in the able and interesting columns of the New York 
American ; but there is a certain obliquity about the paper 
I do not like. Sometimes I am amused at the Herald ; 
that strange compound of originality and enterprise, 
weakness and strength, and eo-otism so excessive as to 
reach w'ithin one step of the sublime ! I read, too, occa- 
sionally, a St. Louis Republican, which ranks high from 



IN THE ARMY. 253 

age and commercial support ; it resembles the Intelli- 
gencer, substituting a little abuse for a little ability. You 
see, sir, I read botli sides and neutrals, and promise to 
become a knowing politician^-/or the Prairie /" 

Friend. — Admirable ! — in one quality, — their fondness 
for the sound of their own voice. 

" Frank as a bear hunter ! Let us change then the 
subject." 

Friend. — No ! I tried to get in a word, some time ago. 
Do you call severe cavalry exercises twice a day, and an 
almost daily change of camp, inactivity ? a reorganiza- 
tion of your command too ! I fear it is slothful inactivity 
of mind, which has made you neglect me in the leisure I 
admit you have had. 

" It may be so ; but it is a tempting recreation to re- 
cline against the shady side of one's tent, to smoke, and 
watch the curling cloud ascend with fantastic grace, until 
lost in the blue ether — to dream dreams too transparent 
and airy, or too selfish for other's uses." 

Friend. — Bah ! Better continue your catalogue rai- 
sonnee of newspapers. What immense sheet is that ? 

" The Weekly Louisville Journal ; an excellent far- 
mer's paper. Prentice has a characteristic quality which 
now needs a name — better than repartee writer. But, 
heaven and earth ! he is the best abuser too of his time 
— an exotic in a genial soil." 

Friend. — I like a man hearty in everything ; and he 
seems a favorite of yours — though hard to please. 

" Bad luck to him ! I don't know why he should be ; 
he lost for me my last copy of a political pamphlet I 
wrote when I was a lad." 

Friend. — When a lad ! What was it ? 

" Oh, some Utopian scheme for curing the dishonesty 
22 



254 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

and rancor of national politics ; but masses cannot reason, 
though they may grow corrupt. The idea, I remember, 
was for each party to elect three : no, it was to elect three 
persons to draw lots for the Presidency ; but the most 
interesting particulars I now remember are, that it cost 
me half a month's pay." 

Friend. — And not even thanks in return. 

" I read the other day in the Journal, a very pretty 
account of a ramble or voyage to the Falls of St. Anthony. 
I even remember an idea, or sentence — 'a new and virgin 
moon was just hung out like a coronet of pearl on . the 
brow of evening.' " 

Friend. — Beautiful ! 

" We frequently meet with a gem amid newspaper rub- 
bish. It sends a modest ray to tremble a moment in a 
troubled atmosphere, and then vanish forever." 

Friend. — May not the figure apply also to books ? I 
read one a long time ago called the Vestal, which pleased 
me very much ; but never have I seen it since, or heard 
it spoken of. An author of renown writes on the same 
subject — borrows largely, for what the world knows — and 
produces " The Last Days of Pompeii," which the world 
is fully prepared to laud in advance ! 

" Here is another newspaper gem : N. P. W.'s letter 
about Glenmary." 

Friend. — Yes ! by-the-by, he has imparted of late a 
spicy flavor to the National Intelligencer, which must 
have increased its readers, if not subscribers. 

" Willis has an inexhaustible fund of novelty and 
originality in him ; he is a sparkling and polished writer 
— but sometimes of nonsense." 

Friend. — "The Adventures of a Younger Son," by 
Trelawny, is another instance ; a book which I have read 



IN THE ARMY. -00 

twice "with delight ; but it is out of print ; I know no one 
who has read it. 

" Excuse me, but I have, — and laughed till my sides 
ached. What a keen sense of the ridiculous. An original 
work altogether." 

Friend. — And how superior to the sentimental tribe of 
heroines, is the Arab bride ; and Van Scalpvelt is a 
jewel. 

" Yes, the eccentric and inhuman martyr of science ; 
he is food for much laughter." 

Friend. — De Witt and the nameless hero, are every 
inch sailors and soldiers too. 

" Do you remember the Malay chief and his red 
horse ?" 

Friend. — Remember them ! It is a splendid picture of 
glorious bravery — of heroic action ! 

" And now, sir, your eloquence must not detain me 
from 'drill.' There are a half-dozen fine young fellows 
here wdio have not had even so good an opportunity as 
this to put in practice their theoretical knowledge." 

September 17. — We have had some luck in incidents 
on this desert; or, the "trace" is growing a frequented 
highway. The day before yesterday eight horsemen ap- 
proached the camp from the west. I thought they were 
Indians, or possibly, part of a Mexican escort. Before 
they were recognized, another column of horse, apparent- 
ly, rapidly approached. I was much urged to prepare. 
" To horse !" was just breathing into the trumpets, when, 
catching sight of wagon tops, I prevented the "alarm." 
They were the spring caravan on their return ; and a 
drove of mules were the column of horse. They bring 
the first certain news of their having reached Santa Fe 
in safety. They returned by Bent's Fort, and so can give 



256 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

US little information of the dangerous part of the direct 
route which the present caravan is to follow. They had 
unexpected success in disposing of their goods, the Go- 
vernor of Chihuahua having brought to Santa Fe a thou- 
sand troops in consequence of the alarm of the Texans 
in June. No escort to relieve me had been heard of; and 
so my going on seems settled. They departed yesterday 
morning, as I marched hitherward; and one of them will 
offer five wagons for return freight, which would relieve 
some of the overladen wagons in the rear. 

Soon after leaving Cow Creek we saw buffalo ; and 
on our approach to Walnut Creek — where the camp now 
is — they were, as usual here, numerous. One was chased 
and killed by an officer. Very sweet, after a nine hours' 
ride, was the meat ; it is certainly superior to beef. 

Last night, for the first time, was warm ; and I bathed 
in the stream, which is four or five feet deep. This morn- 
ing the wind came rushing down from the north as the 
sun rose, and instantly it was quite cold. 

A careless poor fellow of the guard, just before I 
marched from Cow Creek, shot himself; his carbine 
chamber was sprung and thus it was discharged as from 
a pocket pistol ; the ball was deeply buried in the shoul- 
der, and it is feared has injured the joint. 

I have been reading an article from the London Lite- 
rary Gazette, excusing Americans for using the expres- 
sions, " a tall time," " a loud smell," as stated by Dickens ; 
it gives instances among the English and French of some- 
what similar misuses of words, as a long man, for a tall 
man, &c. The English it would seem cannot understand 
us. (Dickens had no disposition to do so, or report us 
correctly.) It is very probable he heard many such ex- 
pressions, but he criticises with ill-natured seriousness a 



IN THE ARJIY. 257 

mere fanciful exuberance of spirits, or slang affectations 
intended as small wit to amuse. An Englishman judges 
the well-fed, careless, jolly, poor American by the stan- 
dard of his overworked " operative," for whom to be alive 
to small fun of this sort, in sober moments, would be 
almost a miracle indeed ; there is very little joke, I ima- 
gine, in his composition. 

September 18 (Arkansas River). — Friend. — Ah, why 
so dull ? For a good half hour you have sat in your tent 
under the cotton-wood, with book at your knee and pen 
at hand, ready to take down in short hand a conversation, 
yet have not had life enough to bid me welcome. 

" True, most welcome friend ! true all — I am as dull as 
the leaden wheels of the motionless caravan. What on 
earth is there here to excite an emotion, or even a solitary 
idea ? A vast expanse of prairie bottom with clouds of 
mosquitoes ; there is a river close by, but it cannot be 
seen for tall grass ; these half dozen trees would not, to 
a stranger, mark its vicinity. The day is warm, not a 
creature, not even a solitary buffalo dots the flat surface of 
the earth. I waited five days, and in five more, marched 
but forty-five miles, and still the traders will not come 
up ; the clouds and northeast wind this morning threw 
me into despair. Another rain, and they peradventure 
would never cross this soft bottom." 

Friend. — Pshaw ! Cheer up ! You will soon have new 
scenes; perhaps will be able to give a picture of the much 
talked of Santa Fe. 

" That is the sore point ; if I had got my present rov- 
ing commission in my spring campaign, what a pleasant, 
easy matter to have gone there and returned ; but now if 
I go I shall stay until it sickens us to the heart of its 
barbarous dearth of all mental and creature comforts ; 

22* 



258 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

for five or six months would some of us think of little but 
home ! No ! I shall accomplish all the public objects of 
my mission, and return by some hardworked expedient." 

Friend. — But still you will see the Rocky Mountains. 

" At a respectful distance Pike's Peak perhaps. I had 
a terrible disappointment yesterday ! My daily allow- 
ance from the strata of newspapers, turned out I thought 
a prize, a number of Chuzzlewit ; with the accustomed 
anticipations of pleasure or amusement from his writings, 
I lay down to read it. Martin had just arrived in New 
York ; never were my feelings so revolutionized ; on the 
dull prairie I could have relished novelty or wit at the 
expense of my very friends ; even moral poison, if it were 
tart ; but, lo ! it was dull and disgusting ; I could scarce 
wade through it ; as the essay of a narheless author it 
could never have paid the printing ; it has proved the 
very Muzzlewit to Dickens." 

Friend. — Talk of dulness ! and you are half asleep, 
and have just made a pun ; which I consider deliberate 
and malicious dulness. 

" You remind me of an excuse once made for shabbi- 
ness, — that a patch was premeditated poverty. But I 
plead guilty ; to what can I attribute so extraordinary a 
circumstance ? Perhaps, it is extreme fatigue, from an 
attempt to chew the coating of the hump rib of a late 
bull ; or more likely it results from having read through 
a Philadelphia weekly. 

" Farewell ! We shall see the Pawnee Rock to-morrow, 
and perhaps have a cow chase !" 

September 21. — Coon Creek. Phoebus ! what a name. 
There is a tribe of them : long, crooked, shallow beds, 
with a string of pools in each, and if it be a dry time, 
they are rendered undrinkable by the buffalo ; this is the 



IN THE ARMY. 259 

"same coon" where there was no grass in the summer; 
but now it is better ; it is buffalo grass, and has taken its 
second growth since the fall of the grain in July, and the 
late rains. 

Friend. — Ah, please describe no more this barren 
region with a solitary animal and vegetable production 
— buffalo and buffalo grass. 

" Prairie dogs and grasshoppers?" 

Friend. — Pray, do not interrupt me. You described 
it more than sufficiently in your last journal. You dis- 
missed me abruptly three days ago ? 

" In the accursed camp of swamps ; it made us all sick ; 
and next day, in a mile — of the best road we have had — 
three wagons broke down ; singular that ? One was re- 
paired and sent home empty ; so I had letters to write, 
yesterday, at the Pawnee Fork." 

Friend. — You forget the Pawnee Rock ! 

" True — it is a natural monument inscribed with the 
names of all. the fools that pass this way." 

Friend. — But its name ? — 

— "Came from a siege there, once upon a time, of a 
small party of Pawnees by the Camanche hordes ; the 
rocky mound was impregnable ; but alas for valor ! they 
were parched with thirst, and the shining river glided in 
their sight through green meadows ! They drank their 
horses' blood, and vowed to the Wah-condah that their 
fates should be one. Death before slavery ! Finally, in 
a desperate effort to cut their way to liberty, they all met 
heroic death ; ushering their spirits with defiant shouts to 
the very threshold of the happy hunting grounds ! The 
Camanches, after their melancholy success, were full of 
admiration, and erected on the summit a small pyramid 
which we see to this day." 



260 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Friend. — Pure fiction ! 

" Inspired by a supper of two pounds of the fattest cow 
that ever — " 

Friend. — And worthy of its source. 

Do you really think this meat better than fat beef ? 

" As superior as a young grouse to a long-legged 
chicken ; and I might as well say infinitely at once." 

Friend. — What is that ! it seems an echo to your 
Elysian shouts. 

" Ha ! another ; something is wrong out there ! By 
heaven, those bufi'alo will be on us ! and the squadrons 
are just unsaddled : — here they come ! shout ! fire your 
guns or our horses are gone ! They stop on that swell — 
they turn to the right. Here they come right on ! A 
general shout and discharge of some arms — again they 
pause. One shake now from that veteran's shaggy front 
and they will dash over us : — a new movement, see ! to 
the right and left ; that bull has lost the lead ; — how they 
roll at us their fierce eyeballs as they pass — the very 
earth trembles. The horses are frantic — the men can 
scarcely hold them ! But we have escaped !" 

Friend. — That's right ! pepper them well ; a lucky 
shot ! that fellow will pay us for our fright. I assure 
you I did not breathe ! 

" They caught us at the weakest moment ; though the 
videttes should have been out. What a tremendous mo- 
mentum ! We are fortunate. I have repeatedly seen a 
single bull charge through men, horses, and wagons." 

Friend. — Is not this near the scene of your w^onderful 
bullfight in June ? 

" Yes ; a few miles back ; wonderful it was to think 
that a bull, after being wounded and stunned by a twelve- 
pound shell, should rush upon a great column of horse, 



IN THE All MY. 261 

anil heedless of a hundred shots and twenty wounds, with 
a bull-dog to his lip, should toss a horse and rider like a 
feather ! They all fell of a heap ! Before the dust cleared 
up the man, who had hung a moment to a horn by his 
waistband, crawled out safe — the horse got a ball through 
his neck while in the air, and two great rents in his 
flank." 

Friend. — And then ran oif ! It was time ! But you 
have told me this before. 

" Well, good night !" 



CHAPTER IV. 

September 22. — Delightful, truly, to escort two hun- 
dred wagons with twelve owners, independently disposed, 
and sharply interested in carrying out different views of 
emergencies ; the failure of water, grass, or fuel. 

Want of water pushed us yesterday far ahead of them ; 
want of grass set us in motion this morning. We had 
not made much headway, — against a beating wind, — when 
it was made known that Indian dogs had been in camp, 
and a rather doubtful horseman seen. Fifty sabres and 
a howitzer were immediately sent back with a roving 
commission, as whippers-in of these tardy merchant-wje/i. 

We were then on a very brown and very smooth 
desert ; a table land with just enough of the hill about it 
— insensibly curving out of sight, with nothing below the 
sky to relieve or correct the eye by comparison — to 
create the sensation of immensity, and of vast height, 
as well ; it is a very rare conformation, and the effect 
difficult to describe ; the beholder suspects an illusion, but 



262 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

he is doubtful whether optical or imaginary. We Avere 
passing for ten miles, apparently over this hill-top, before 
a shallow pool, which we might dispute with the buflfalo, 
enabled us to encamp. 

Alas for hungry humanity ! Alas! that the .blood of 
six fat bulls cries in vain from the prairie against stomachs 
Avithout consciences. So it is — the Saxon soldier goes 
that "entire animal," and still craves a piece of the hog. 

Sept. 23. — Here we are opposite Jackson Grove ; a point 
near unsurveyed and unmarked national boundaries : — it 
was named by an officer who was called upon very sud- 
denly to decide to which of three nations it belonged ; 
there depended much individual, if not national interest: 
— some half a million of property and the amount of 
blood that might be risked for the capture or retention of 
so much. The decision was right (by some four seconds 
of longitude, as it has proved in 1844) : the act was to 
dash across the wide river, swimming in places, and with 
quicksands nearly everywhere, in the face of one or two 
hundred Anglo-Saxon prairie rovers (to soften two con- 
sonants into one) armed to the teeth. 

Oh, Mark Tapley ! thou strange brain-conception. 
To-day wouldst thou have been content, and have taken 
credit for cheerfulness. Caught twenty-five miles from 
fuel in a thirteen hours rain — " such rain as is rain," — for 
fifteen miles we soaked, and mayhap sulked ; in vain was 
excitement offered in the shape of the most convenient 
herds of buffalo ; cows, calves, in fat family groups, 
kicking up the mud as they ran past almost into our 
faces : — a cape saturated to board-like stiffness, thrown 
back — a sodden holster-cover half raised — a horse urged 
to a deeper splash or two — and then, reaction brought us 
to the cold stage again ! 



IN THE ARMY. ):b6 

Fifteen miles ! — and flesh unci blood — mule flesh — 
could stand no more ; the column's head, followed by all 
its drill-cemented joints, was turned to a quarter where a 
"woodman's" faith in the "mariner's" compass was con- 
firmed by the greater convexity of the treeless plain, that 
it would more suddenly dip to the hospitable meadows of 
the Arkansas ; I knew, too, the hydraulic paradox, that 
in the low, flat bottom we should find dry ground ; for 
it is composed of sand ; but for fuel, the poor fellows, 
after their wet, cold ride, had to wade waist-deep, and 
over tedious quicksands, a quarter of a mile through the 
river to the grove, and return with the soaked sticks upon 
their shoulders ; and the weather has turned cold. Pleasant 
passage, that, of military life ! 

Sept. 26. — Friend. — You neglect me ! and for several 
days past you have had little to do. 

" True ; but how depressing the circumstances ! — rain 
and frost, in a desert without fuel ; — forage fast going 
the way of all grass ; and no power to recede or advance, 
for the caravan is again stuck in the mud." 

Friend. — I have heard of winter marches, but always, 
I believe, when the poor soldier with his single blanket, 
could have a good fire. Was there really a frost? 

" Last night there was a severe frost, and the winds 
are very high, and low enough, as you see, to flare the 
candle under the tent, and cover me with dust ; but let 
us change the disagreeable subject. You should have 
seen our bufifalo-hunt yesterday as we marched up the 
river-bottom ; or rather bull-baiting ; an ofiicer chased 
him toward the road, and gave him with his pistol a 
fatal wound ; the column halted, and eleven officers 
approached and commenced firing, and two had car- 
bines ; the animal was at bay, and would dash at any 



264 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

one who came within fifteen or twenty paces ; the fire 
was kept up for near a quarter of an hour ; I was prac- 
tising my new horse, but took deliberate aims ; the 
furious beast must have weighed as he stood two thousand 
pounds. He had many wounds through the lights ; one 
ball struck his spine or paralysed it, and he trotted 
dragging his hinder parts ! but he recovered from that. 
Never did I see such a picture ; his eyes glared terribly, 
his compressed breathings were snorts of excessive rage ; 
every muscle of his body was rigid, or working with eifort 
to vent his anger ; his tufted tail stood like an iron rod ; 
the blood from lung-wounds spirted from his sides at 
every breath — at least fifty balls had struck him, — he 
never flinched ! deliberate shots were fired at his eyes, 
he seemed not to feel them ; at last he sank upon his 
knees, and after many unavailing eiforts to rise, as an ex- 
periment, I shook a great-coat over him ; his rage then 
inspired him with strength, he rose and dashed after me ! 
Several more wounds were inflicted before the poor brave 
beast fell and expired. How strange ! I have not exag- 
gerated. Usually on receiving a single wound, such as 
first given in this case, if undisturbed, they will lie down 
and soon die ; whilst now and then such an animal as 
this is encountered, that seems deathless ; of course the 
excitement must give strength and keep them alive." 

Friend. — The excitement and motion prevent a fatal 
coagulation ; are not the cows the best game now ? 

"Yes, but we seldom get them, they herd separately; 
the men are on half allowance of flour and bull meat ; the 
bulls are now most dangerous ; by-the-by, one of the 
young ofiicers fell and dislocated his shoulder the other 
day ; his horse, at speed, trod in a dog hole — that spoils 
his sport for the season." 



IN THE ARMY. 265 

Friend. — Are there no signs of your old friends, tlie 
Camanches? 

"The animal itself; a vidette on the little hill behind 
the camp, saw this afternoon a horseman in the sand hills 
over the river — seeing is believing, but few will believe he 
saw him." 

Friend. — Unwilling men — for it gives them trouble 
and labor — will only believe what they see, and while 
they see it ; such have constantly to be taken care of. 

"And grumble at the care." 

Friend. — To be constantly on the defensive, and the 
strongest, is not the best school for strategy or military 
caution. 

" True enough, though cavalry is always weak on the 
defensive, and peculiarly so without grain ; on the offen- 
sive also, our town-bred soldiers can only be efficient on 
the prairie through speed, bottom, and superior strength 
or audacity. A surprise or concealed manoeuvre, would 
scarcely be a practical method ; a forced night-march 
would be their nearest approach to it." 

Friend. — What then becomes of the common idea that 
a level plain is the ground for cavalry ? 

"It is mere ignorance; of practicable ground, a flat 
plain is perhaps the worst for an attack by cavalry ; and 
it is an arm that always strikes — even when it shields a 
retreating army. I would choose hilly or rolling ground 
on which to attack infantry ; but especially if I was un- 
supported by artillery : — and this ground serves for 
shelter from the enemy's artillery ; and cavalry cannot 
rest under its fire." 

Friend. — The Indians then have advantages in attack- 
ing ? 

" Decidedly, in their usual method by surprise ; their 
23 



2G(3 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

perfect knowledge of the ground enables them to use the 
concealment of long swells Avhich we would scarcely per- 
ceive ; the}^ have no roads, and are never in danger of 
wandering from their object; their knowledge too, ena- 
bles them to form ambushes, a favorite resort of partisan 
cavalry ; they have no jingling arms, their horses are 
better trained, and will endure much more ; and they lead 
them without tiring when concealment is necessary." 

Fi-iend. — And they can operate better in the night ! 

" They could — but the prairie Indians never do attack 
in the night ; and foolishly enough, very rarely, if ever, 
attempt to drive off our horses, or even merchant teams." 

Friend. — Nay ! to the D — 1 his due ; that is chivalry ! 

September 28.—" The ' Caches.' " 

Yesterday we marched here for fresh grass. I ex- 
pected a part at least of the caravan ; but lo ; this morn- 
ing an express to Taos for mules ! It reports the whole 
caravan still water-bound at Cow Creek. 

Friend. — And I think you are getting into deep water, 
as Oily Gammon says. 

"A sea of troubles at least. What is to be done with 
Uncle Sam's cavalry ? the elite of six companies of her 
sole regiment of mounted dragoons. I was ordered since 
I marched, to go on to Santa Fe, then leave New Mexico 
and winter somewhere about the head of the Arkansas. 
I replied, you know, that I would either winter in New 
Mexico or return to Fort L." 

Friend. — With an eye to the Senoritas ! 

" To save expense ; I calculated on an average sea- 



son 



Friend. — And it is an extraordinary one. So much 
for penny-wise notions. Capitalists great enough to be 
self-insured, must be "pound foolish," in appearance to 
you small-fry operators. 



IN THE ARMY. 267 

" Who could possibly have foreseen when I last wrote, 
that in seventeen daj's we should progress but ninety 
miles! Now will the rations come?" 

Friend. — You have made it a question, and you must 
answer ! You may starve man as well as horse, or be 
crippled in your power to act, in circumstances as change- 
able as the weather in this desert, where the fickle winds 
have never a bush to stay their fury ! 

" When one, after close calculation, has announced an 
undertaking which wiseacres pronounce impossible ; then 
to find the scroll of fate unrolling obstacles which expe- 
rience could not anticipate, is a severe trial ; and almost 
with anguish we anticipate the triumph of folly !" 

Frieiid. — And the eternal, " I told you so, uttered 
by friends, those prophets of the past."* 

" I have sent an express back to the officer in command 
of the company with the caravan, to learn if they will 
demand escort beyond the boundary; and how far?" 

Friend. — Well, keep cool. 

"A cool mind in a wet body ! only a free translation." 

October 1. — The night before last was, to the human 
body, almost freezing cold ; there was a storm of raw, 
searching wind, from wliich blankets seemed no protec- 
tion ; the fires were all hloum out — off — extinguished ! 
Bent has come and has ten loads of rations behind, but 
anxiously awaits my decision, whether I shall give him 
the required notice to reduce his contract in a great por- 
tion of flour and beef, not yet purchased. Y'^esterday 
afternoon the express returned with a letter from the 
traders, answering me, that they require my escort to 
" Red River" — nearly to Santa Fe. Immediately after 
came their interpreter, with a confidential message that 

* See quotation, Don Juan, canto xiv, stanza 1. 



268 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

they could dispense wltli it much nearer, provided Bent 
and his people could be kept in complete ignorance of 
any intention of returning ; fearing it Avould be commu- 
nicated to enemies ; nests, they say, of semi-trappers 
and serai-brigands, who harbor not very far from B.'s 
establ.ishment, and not far from a point of their route. 
Now, during this conversation, Mr. B. (and suite) walk 
up impatient for my final answer, for which he had very 
inconveniently waited a day, involving more or less this 
very point ! A writer of scenic representation of the 
burlesque, could hardly contrive a prettier comic climax, 
than this pinnacle of the difficult ! 

My detachment has rejoined ; Bent has gone. Some 
of the caravan are in advance of others, — none can say 
when they will come. And now shall I despatch an 
express to Fort L. for a light load of medicines and other 
necessaries for eight months in the wilderness, — time 
being precious, — or shall 1 wait for the small chance of 
the Mexicans dispensing with the escort at the Lower 
Semaron Spring, sixty miles in their country, in which 
event the command should certainly return ? 

Fair and bright dawned the first of October ! The 
fierce chilling blast has sung a fit requiem to the infernal 
September; with its cloudy wings it has taken its eternal 
flight — may such another never revisit poor people so 
helplessly exposed to its dreary influences ! Seven of the 
Mexicans have died under its inflictions, and twenty more 
of the comfortless wretches are prostrated with disease. 

October 5th, 9 o'clock, p.m. — There has just gone forth 
from the hilltops, on the wailing north wind, the wildest 
chorus that I ever heard; a swelling unison of many 
tones and a dying cadence ! It is music — natural concert 
music — performed by brutes under the influence of this 



IN THE ARMY. 2G9 

dark hour, Avliich heralds the dread footsteps of Avinter. 
And did you not know that wolves howl in concert ? Did 
you never see them under the pale moon sit in circle 
watching their leader as bipeds do ? 

All nature is musical ; the birds hail the dawn, and 
when the god of day touches with his pencil of light the 
lovely landscape picture, their glad voices swell to harmo- 
nious glees of praise. In evening twilight, or when the 
silvery moon (like Memory) casts the homely in shadow 
and brightens every point of beauty, that Beauty finds a 
voice ! Like a sigh of happiness, Zephyr swells, and 
falls, and rises again, till the answering foliage rustles 
with music ; the myriad insects — whose life is a song — ■ 
led by sv/eet katydid, hum a mellow and soothing concord. 
Now and then this monotone is relieved by the dream- 
notes of some happy bird, or solo of whip-poor-will, 
whose song expresses the very Poetry of Night. Ah ! 
then, how happy those who hear that music of all, — the 
voice of love ! 

Nature is full of music, and for every ear — that har- 
monizes Avith all smiles and tears : — the sounds attuned 
by man can only accord with the transient mood ; he can 
thrill the victor with the brazen-mouthed voice of triumph, 
or echo Avith plaintive flute the lover's sigh. 

The wolves then harmoniously hoAvl their plaints to 
Nature, and soothe their pains Avith music ; it is the 
natural expression of the hour and its influences, and it 
strikes in the human breast the chord Avhich they have 
strung. 

It may be singular — I can scarce account to myself — 
but I never heard without pleasure this voice of the Night 
— the more if it be stormy and threatening — whether in 
the "Avitchiiig" midnight hour, or in the lonely morning 

23'^ 



270 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

watch by the feeble guard-fire, — their wild and mournful 
howling has been ever welcome. This instant ! listen! It 
comes to my soul far moix intelligible music than those 
extravaganzas of sound triumphantly "executed" by men 
and maidens. 

* * Blessed ideal ! rosy realm ! Welcome resort of 
sad and weary souls ! welcome^ as to the fainting, lost way- 
farer, struggling in darkness, the rising sun. 

Dear friend ! — spirit oft invoked ! — Sweet Inspiration ! 
that leadest me ever Avith winged joy from the dreary 
present to the fountains and groves of Memory — Beau- 
tiful Presence ! 

A voice. — Dreamer, awake ! 

" Scoffer ! Who art thou, so near ?" 

Friend {entering the tent). — Thy monologue I endured, 
whilst it touched of earth ; but when self-forgetting, 
thou transformedst thy true friend to a spirit minister of 
hardly dubious sex, — who methinks, would wander here, 
from no comfortable abode of earth or sky — 

" Enough ! And may not the actor be dreamer too ? 
Ah ! dreams, dreams ! And why not thus live o'er the 
few rosy hours ? — taste again, if may be, the one spark- 
ling drop of 'misery's cup ?' " 

Friend. — Pshaw ! That cup, if you please, at your 
elbow, and let's have a drop of creature comfort. 
Things are changed ? 

"Yes; destiny has now shuffled the cards of our small 
fates ; they had been stocked by some attendant imp, 
who was leading us (and tickling us the while, with ex- 
citing chimeras), to the d — 1." 

Friend. — Nay, stick to the surface now ; only " to the 
d — 1" with your double-refined poetry and romance. 

" Well, I must submit, to please you, and attempt a 
lower leveL" 



IN THE ARMY. 271 

Friend. — Where I fear you "will scarce be at home to- 
night. But do give me the news ? 

" Two nights ago, I at last got together the caravan 
merchants ; they insisted upon my going on — so I marched 
fifteen miles next day ; and as I approached a camp 
ground on the river bank, a man ran out and told me that 
there was a Mexican escort, waiting a few miles above, at 
the crossing ! This sudden and — of late — wholly un- 
thought of news nearly took my breath. Joy, and dis- 
appointment — of wild and dreamy adventures — had an 
agitating struggle in my breast ; but home-feelings soon 
reconciled me to Destiny; the brain — " 

Friend. — Can master every passion ? 

" Cool and philosophical as a woman (of zvJioyn it may 
be true) ; but the passions not only increase in force 
with the power of the brain, but in a higher ratio." 

Friend. — No mathematics either, if you please, they 
are iyifernal. 

" I assure you (it is a secret of mine) that nothing else 
known among men can cope with feminine logic ; but that 
is magical ; the d — 1 can as well resist holy water. Well, 
at this news, it was remarkable and quite a study — speak- 
ing of ratios — that the faces of the married men were 
lengthened in proportion to the length of their married 
life." 

Friend, — Scoffer ! 

" Fairly hit ! Return we then to our sheep, — I should 
say our Mexican escort. They were 50 lancers — an ad- 
vance party, a ' forlorn hope' of 150 more, who would not 
trust their carcasses on this disputed ground further than 
the Cimerone. They all left Santa Fe a few hours after 
the arrival of a courier from the City of Mexico. 

Next morning, leaving the baggage, I marched to the 



ii<U SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

crossing in my best style ; on our approach we saw the 
Mexicans bej^ond the river saddle and mount ; but on our 
dismounting they were dismissed. The adjutant rode 
over to make inquiries and invite them to cross and spend 
the day with us. Their commander declined, with the 
pointed excuse that he was ordered on no account to cross 
' the boundary.' There can be no doubt that the Mexican 
minister, seeing General G.'s published letter, announcing 
our return and intention, for ' free trade' sake, to visit 
Santa Fe, hastened to inform his government ; and that 
President Santa Anna sent the express with orders to de- 
spatch an escort ' within an hour' after its arrival in Santa 
Fe. They were just in time ! 

" lieceiving their hint with a good grace, as soon as 
the caravan was over, we mounted in order of battle, and 
as a significant salute, fired a round from the howitzer 
battery ; the shells were directed in ricochet down a fine 
reach of the river between us, and after a dozen of beau- 
tiful rebounds, exploded under water — to the manifest 
astonishment of some of the aborigines amongst our sus- 
picious allies. Then, turning our faces homeward, we 
filed off, — returned and slept in the camp where we had 
left our baggage." 

Friend. — Which to-night is twenty-five miles behind 
you; it is a subject for gv^i\x\?ii\on, for you will accom- 
plish your undertaking ! I leave you to your slumbers, 
and — your wolves. 



CHAPTER V. 

October 7. — If I can write with gloves, here goes ! 
for the sun has risen only high enough to illume the 



IN THE ARMY. 273 

crystals of frost with which the grass is studded — and 
here and there a glassy pool. 

Yesterday I left the road — which we will not strike for 
several days — to follow more closely the bend of the 
river: I had to leave the "bottom" but once; when, with 
a direct course of several miles .over the hills, I struck it 
again at the extremity of a beautiful, level, and smooth 
savanna three miles by two in extent ; the hills forming the 
chord of a graceful sweep of the river, — its whole course 
marked by its sky-reflecting waters, or an irregular fringe 
of cotton-woods ; what a glorious spot, we exclaimed, for 
a chase ! And we had one, worthy of the scene. 

Far in the bend of the river, we soon saw a large herd 
of elks. Several officers made a wide detour to get be- 
tween them and the water : I had just run my horse over 
broken ground in the hills after four does, which seemed 
to glide away from me like spectres, encumbered as I 
was with great-coat and sabre ; but the previous night 
— singularly enough — I had read in the Spirit of the 
Times an account of the habits and peculiarities, and best 
manner of chasing the immense herds of these animals, 
found far to the north ; — so, I saved my horse, edging 
down quietly, expecting a part of them at least, in their 
confusion, to run toward me. 

The noble creatures, with a whole forest of antlers, 
taking the alarm, first began to trot round loftily, Avith 
heads tossed high in air — the men swore they were wild 
horses ; now we see the officers, putting spurs, suddenly 
dash among them ; we see two, three, four little blue 
puffs of smoke, and hear the explosions; but no elk falls! 
Now there is a rush for the river, — they have turned 
again ! — some are in the water ; — see ! a hunter is follow- 
ing there that immense buck, the patriarch of the herd ! 



f:74 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Bravo ! I was not deceived ; the herd has dispersed in 
confusion ; — one gang has taken the wind, and quarters 
on our coast ; — one hunter follows at a goodly distance ! 
— he is firing into their rear, but does not appear to gain 
on them ; these elks, without much show of motion, scud 
along at a telling rate, and keep a long while at it. Now, 
I tighten my belt, and lightly costumed, brace myself in 
high excitement ; yet cool enough still to manoeuvre on 
their flank at a sweeping trot : — Now, to work ! — And 
somewhat late, for I soon find myself in their rear. Ex- 
quisite the excitement of race-horse speed, and the near 
approach to these grand animals, straining every muscle, 
in powerful motion, their cloven hoofs sharply rattling ! 
— and for the first time ! What novelty of sensation ! — 
what astonished curiosity ! — my horse snorts, and shares 
my joy ! Thunder we on ! Now, my noble Brown, take 
the spur. Wildly excited he dashes into the herd, and I 
am rushing in ecstasy in their very midst, their large 
eyes flashing fire, their antlers sweeping the air above 
my head. But Brown reminds me he brought me not 
there for fun alone ; and so I fire my pistol into the nearest 
buck, and take a pull on the willing horse. My elk — 
poor fellow — seconds my intent, and soon Ave are motion- 
less on a profoundly silent plain. 

Now, my fierce excitement subsides. I observe curiously 
— almost timidly — a magnificent animal, large as my 
horse, but of a loftier crest. Ah ! what beauty and what 
sufiering ! With majesty in all his bearing, he violently 
grits his teeth in pain or defiance ; but in his beautiful 
eyes I imagine that rage is yielding to a mournful re- 
proach. 

And now I sufi"er a reaction. We are alone with Death, 
which my hand has summoned to this peaceful solitude. 



I N T H E A R M Y. li ( O 

The still erect but dj'mg animal faces me at six feet, 
and painfully heaves. I stare dreamily into those fas- 
cinating eyes : his dignity of suffering seems to demand 
of me an explanation, or, a conclusion to the fatal scene. 

At length, with a sigh, I finish my work ; and with 
another ball end his pains forever ! 

After supper. — The hunter in the mouth of his tent 
reclines, with a pipe, upon a glossy bearskin ; — before 
him, a desert expanse of grass and river; — his at- 
tention is apparently divided between the moon, sus- 
pended over the western hills ; — the flickering blaze of a 
small fire, and the curling smoke which he deliberately 
exhales. His friend stirs a toddy, reading with difficulty 
a crabbed manuscript. Loquitur. " When I saw you 
yesterday, beside your usual duties, acting as guide, sur- 
geon — (for you have eff'ectually cured the snake-bitten 
horse) — as hunter, or butcher" — 

" Say commissary !" — 

" I conceived hopes of you, — that the poetic spirit was 
laid; and when at supper to-night you ate so heartily 
of the elk-steak, I little thought you had been indulging 
again in such pathetic" — 

" Pshaw ! it serves for a gilding to life's bitter pill ! 
The delicious supper should have mended your humor : 
for I stake my reputation on it — as 'guide, surgeon, and 
hunter' " — 

Friend. — And butcher — 

— " That the flesh, cooked as it was with a little pork, 
cannot be distinguished from that of the fattest buff*alo 
cow that ever surrendered tong-ue and marrow-bones to 
hungry hunter." 

Friend. — Bravo ! I liave hopes of you ! Kill your 
meat with a good conscience, and, daily labor and excite- 



27G SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

ment over, solid indeed is the hunter's comfort ! With 
grass and bearskin bed, his toddj, and his soothing pipe 
— the musical ripple of the river sparkling in the moon- 
beams — I mean — 

" Fairly caught ! I little thought when I heard you 
abuse my pathos over the noble beast that had yielded 
his life to my sport, that mere creature comforts would 
thus inspire you ! Dear critic, and lover of bathos ! hast 
thou found poetry in a full stomach ?" 

Friend. — The devil's in the moon. — And there goes 
another Avolf " concert" — 

"With the thorough bass of a thousand bulls." 

Friend. — All as thoroughly musical as the donkey 
braying in the caravan camps, I wish you a very good 
evening, 'and a little better taste.' 

The hunter, gazing apparently upon his ascending 
smoke — as if of incense — indulges in soliloquy. 

"My Friend leaves me to the silent Night — and soli- 
tude as profound as when ' the Spirit of God moved upon 
the face of the waters.' 

" Incomprehensible scheme ! Oh ! thou beautiful and 
wonderful Nature ! — mother and moulder of the forms, 
and minds as well, of our wayward race. Now, she smiles 
in brilliant moonbeams on the grassy meadows, which 
wave with answering gladness to the whispering air. And 
the strong river flows as gently as an infant playing on 
the young mother's breast; — its murmurs as softly 
musical as that infant's voice ! The air, methinks, is 
fanned by seraphic spirits on their winged errands of 
Peace ! My heart swells in adoration and beats in har- 
mony with the holy eloquence of the hour. 

" But strike another chord. 

" Lo ! floods burst their bounds with cruel wreck. 



IN TUE ARMY. 277 

Darkness appals, and Storm howls o'er its victims! 
Passion, Vengeance, and black Crime rear their crests — 
Dismay and Chaos rule the hour." 

Oct. 7. — Mark this day with a white stone ! After 
travelling sixty or seventy miles off the road — encamping 
each night on the river in comparatively good grass, and 
with driftwood fuel too, I this morning, as guide, took a 
course for the crossing of the Pawnee Fork, and struck 
it to a degree ! Then, in the beaten dry road, the 
mules were much relieved. As we passed over the 
hills we saw to our left countless buffalo : — last night 
we heard them crossing the river incessantly, in single 
file — which indicates their migration ; with a constant 
utterance of their very peculiar sounds, which may not 
be better described, than as something between the grunt 
of a great hog and the low bellowing of a bull. This 
afternoon, as we approached a beautiful camp-ground, on 
Ash Creek, a large herd came rushing by our front. Five 
of us dashed after, and each killed a cow, or young bull ; 
and all within a mile, and as near to our camp ground ! 
Mine I shot with a pistol at six paces, at full speed : — it 
fell as if struck by lightning, and never mo'ved. Very 
rarely does that happen ! Glorious sport it is ! To rush 
along in the very midst of herds that blacken the earth 
with numbers, and shake it with momentum ; and richly, 
too, it rewards the skilful hunter's hungry toil ! 

This has been a true October day — delightful and 
magnificent October ! — and with but little of the high 
wind, which here so generally prevails. But this was all 
too sweet, and must have its bitter. A luckless wretch 
of the guard allowed his horse to escape — " all accoutred 
as he Avas," and he has not been recovered, or traced. 

24 



278 SCENES AND ADVENTUllES 

Diamond Spring, Oct. 17th, '43. 

Ours is a true retreat ! — a retreat from frost and starva- 
tion, — the starvation of horses and mules. Water has 
frozen a half-inch thick almost every night ; and some- 
times there was no fuel : — horses have begun to drop by 
the roadside. 

At Cow Creek I made my last buflfalo chase, which 
had a singular incident. Just as I was closing on eight 
large bulls, on the level bottom, they utterly disappeared, 
without my seeing or conceiving whither ! Nothing could 
equal my astonishment whilst I ran twenty yards ; — then 
my horse, by a powerful effort, which very nearly preci- 
pitated me over his head, stopped on the square brink of 
a deep slough, where my phantoms reappeared, — and in 
great bodily power, were making desperate struggles to 
clear the mire, and the opposite bank, equally vertical, 
and set to the edge with tall grass. This narrow chasm 
could not be seen till right over it ; and the bulls had 
pitched in, whilst — I suppose, without knowing it — my 
eyes were for an instant averted. 

We encamped on the Little Arkansas, in a high wind : 
the grass was tall ; and I gave a very special warning to 
all to beware of fire. Nevertheless, about the time we 
were fairly settled, I heard a sharp alarm ! All rushed 
to the spot with blankets and whatever they could lay 
hands upon ; a hundred men fought it desperately — ex- 
posing themselves without stint — for provisions, baggage, 
everything, depended on success ; but it was a doubtful 
struggle, untir happily, a barrel "was found, to roll over it. 
And this fire had not spread thirty yards ! Such is our 
sole forage. 



IN THE ARMY. 279 

Friend. — Very interesting, this dry grass and frost ! 
Has the idea of home banished me from your thoughts ? 

"Ah, no ! I am a bit of a philosopher ; and take this 
October marching very kindly — particularly, after thaw- 
ing of a morning ; and riding ahead, I kill a grouse oc- 
casionally with my pistol." 

Friend. — What would you give to see a late paper ? 

" You have me there ! I have a weakness for a damp 
newspaper ; — let me see — it is now eight weeks since we 
have had news. But I discovered a copy of James's False 
Heir with my baggage ; that, in my mental famine, has 
been quite a feast." 

Friend. — Do you like it ? 

" I think he has exhausted his best powers : the plot 
turns solely on a worn-out incident; the real or pretended 
substitution of infants. James has at last committed the 
folly, which, first or last, all the British authors seem to 
fall into — I mean a sneer, or slander, on us Americans. 
Strange, indeed, that a writer who has made friends of 
the readers of a great nation, should without any good 
object turn their finer feelings into contempt or anger, by 
a few motions of his pen. Ah ! deliver us from the 
temptation of a sneer ! But this is coolly and deliberately 
done." 

Friend. — And what is it ? 

" I say Americanism advisedly ; for republicanism is a 
very diiferent thing, and does not imply a rejection of re- 
finement in the higher classes of society." 

Friend. — He pins his faith then upon the mercenary 
class of tourists ; for he has never visited us. Did you 
ever remark that his valets are often the most intelligent 
and quickwitted of his characters ? 

" It is the case in this very work. The hero is a lad 



280 SCENES AND ADVENTURES' 

of seventeen ; old enough to fall in love, and but little 
else. St. Medard is a mere abstraction, De Langy a 
cipher, Artonne a riddle, Monsieur L. a man in a mask 
■vvho puts himself in the way sufficiently to give some 
interesting trouble and help out the plot. In the most 
commonplace manner, he has thrown the hero and favor- 
ite characters into difficulties for the transparent object 
of a final triumph ; he disinherits the hero, shipwrecks 
his best friend, St. Medard ; confines Artonne in prison 
for murder, and last, not least, sends his best-drawn 
character, Marois, to the galleys !" 

Friend. — James has an extraordinary habit of making 
his spokesmen repeat the first sentence of their speeches, 
thus — "I don't know, sir; I don't know, sir," — "That's 
a pity — that's a pity !" Since I have noticed it, it always 
makes me nervous ! 

" One of the last announcements I read before I left 
home, was, that he had engaged to write a ' serial' for 
the Dublin University Magazine ; sorry I am, but such is 
the accustomed drivel of exhausted minds." 

Friend. — After all, James has been a most effective 
moralist ; and we owe him much. 

" It is excessively cold ! And if I sleep to-night, I 
shall say, blessed be the man that invented — wool !" 

" 110 Mile Creek." — Welcome as palm groves to the 
desert traveller, — as the bearer of glad tidings to the 
anxious soul, — welcome as home to the troubled and 
weary spirit, — so welcome thy forests, thy waters and 
grassy glades, oh, " Hundred-and-ten !" 

Thus far safely, over the desolate and bleak prairies ; 
but with what pains ! How pleasant to regain, one by 
one, the summer camps, homeward bound ! But how 



IX THE ARMY. 281 

mournful the blackened plains, and the freezing winds to 
which the solitary trees bend with shrill complaint. 

I have risen after midnight where there were none — 
and with a few fragments of barrel staves, kindled a 
little fire in a hole, where some one had managed to heat 
a coffee-pot ; and with a blanket over all, sought a re- 
newal of vital heat ! 

With what extreme care have we nursed our horses and 
mules ! sharing our blankets with them, and giving them 
flour mixed with the dead grass chopped with our knives. 
At the hospitable shelter of Council Grove, a few of the 
most broken down horses and teams were left to rest, and 
await the succor I had long written for ; the first of which 
— a wagon-load of corn — we have met here — forty-five 
miles on. 

Leaving the Grove, as we passed over the lofty prairie 
hills, all the world seemed afire ! The unresisted winds 
seemed to riot with fire, which they drove to madness ! 
Black clouds and columns of smoke were wildly tossed in 
the tempestuous air ; whilst the flames now darted with 
lightning speed and glare, — now flickered Avith baleful il- 
lumination and stifling effect over our hurried path. Thus 
desperately I pushed on for tAvo days — regarding nothing 
— with a will fixed upon this haven of shelter and relief. 

And now, our horses browse at will throughout the 
forest ; our log-fires crackle under the noble arches of 
boughs and foliage ; we read our letters and news ; our 
repose is home-like ; and as we gaze at our forest-roofs so 
cheerfully illumined, we indulge in extravagant anticipa- 
tions of winter enjoyment at Fort L. 

Fort L. — Two nights and a day were thus spent ; and 
when, almost unwillingly, we ventured forth again from 
the pleasant forest, the scene and the actors were changed ! 

24* 



282 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Autumn — so long our tyrant — pursuing us witli frosty 
breath on wings of flame, — in the last act had met a 
master; and shrieking over the desert had fled — like a 
blusterer — to the south. Stern Winter had come with his 
pure winding-sheet of snow, to cover the blackened scars 
of the conquered and dead year. 

In three days we reached our homes, and our air- 
castles have sobered down to highly-appreciated comforts. 

But dear " Hundred-and-ten !" we shall never forget 
thy hospitable oasis ; — there was little more poetry in it, 
than in thy singular name (and thus both were highly 
satisfactory to my matter-of-fact Friend, with whom I 
there parted, with hopes of a future meeting). But, with 
charred deserts behind — and forgotten ; and snow-storms 
before, but unforeseen, — we embalm in memory thy 
friendly shelter, and the calm repose of thy homely 
forest ! 



CHAPTEB VI. 

1845. A RIGHT pleasant company we are ! Duty has 
borrowed the attractions of novelty and adventure. All 
are bent joyously upon scaling the crest of the broad 
continent ; leading and protecting those pioneers and 
missionaries of civilization, the Oregon emigrants ; the 
rude founders of a State. Self-exiled and led by a hu- 
man instinct — inspired, and superior to reason ; neither 
pilgrims nor of broken fortunes, but unconscious workers 
of National Human Destiny, they seek the perfect inde- 
pendence of savage life, aided by some invented powers 
of civilized art. 

They scorn all royal paper claims to this virgin world 



IN THE ARMY. 283 

of ours ! The best diplomatists of us all, they would con- 
quer the land as easily as, — Adam lost Paradise. 

Such military expeditions as ours Avill sufficiently pro- 
tect this migration of families ; intermediate posts could 
be maintained only at an immensely disproportioned ex- 
penditure : for nature has furnished no facilities for 
transportation through this wilderness. 

On a bright May morning, turning our backs upon 
lovely Fort Leavenworth, we set forth to march twenty- 
four hundred miles before we shall return. We followed 
for two days the trails of previous marches, guiding us 
through the intricate and broken, but picturesque grounds 
which border the Missouri. Right beautiful scenery it 
is ; with its winding green vales, its irregular but grassy 
hills, all dotted and relieved by dark oaks and cedars ; in 
the distance, some bold blue highland of the great river, 
— or, itself revealed in far off silvery sheen. The third 
day we struck out boldly into the almost untrodden prai- 
ries, bearing quite to the west. The sixth day — having 
marched about ninety miles — we turned toward the south, 
crossing a vast elevated and nearly level plain, extending 
between two branches of the Blue River : thus, without 
an obstacle for fifteen miles, we reached and encamped 
upon its bank. We had the company of an afternoon 
rain, which lasted the night. Thus to sleep wet is 
"perchance to dream," for young campaigners. In the 
morning something was heard of the joke of " seeing the 
elephant;" but an amateur, whose horse had disappeared 
in the night, was understood to have expressed the opi- 
nion that it was a poor one. 

We had fortunately struck the Blue where it was ford- 
able ; and the pioneers soon prepared a way for the 
wagons. This is a serious undertaking, to lead three 



284 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

hundred heavily armed men beyond communications, for 
three or four months. It is not thus the European 
marches, or goes to war. Foresight and experience is 
necessary ; and we are encumbered with seventeen wa- 
gons, although the rations are shortened, cattle driven, 
and some dependence put upon buifalo. 

The seventh day, leaving the Blue, and turning to the 
northwest, between two tributaries from that direction, 
we soon espied on a distant ridge, the wagon-tops of the 
emigrants — dim, white spots, like sails at sea. Gradually 
converging, in a few hours we met. 

Here was a great thoroughfare — broad and well-Avorn — 
the longest and best natural road perhaps in the world. 
Endless seemed the procession of wagons ; mostly very 
light, and laden only with children and provisions, and the 
most necessary articles for families ; and drawn generally 
by two yokes of oxen ; some three hundred wagons or fa- 
milies, they said, were in advance. Here was some cause 
to tremble for our sole resource for forage : for the grass 
is backward and scanty, and these foster children of the 
Missouri hear, as we know, like all partially civilized 
nomades, are accompanied by herds of cattle ; and we 
cannot, like Abraham and Lot, take different courses. 

Having marched about twenty miles, we turned off for 
water and a camp, to a small branch of the Blue, where 
we found our friends ahead had made their mark. There 
we had a frost. 

That little stream had made a section of about twenty 
feet through a bed of yellow adhesive clay ; at the base 
was found a mammoth tooth : there can be little doubt of 
the skeleton being near ; of the grinder being — to borrow 
a mineralogical expression — nearly in situ. 

On the 26th we were off betimes, highly desirous to 



IN THE ARMY. 285 

" head" the very leading " captain" of this vast migra- 
tion, for we found that, worse than the myriads of locusts 
we saw east of the Blue, they would make a clean sweep 
of the grass near all the spots where it is necessary to 
encamp for water. After a very long march a camp- 
ground was sought at a small branch — fringed as usual 
by a few trees, which seldom indeed deceive the water- 
seeker upon prairies. But the grass was consumed, and 
we were forced to retrace our steps for a half mile. Then 
had the soldiers, weary with the long, slow march, in 
addition to the usual toils of tending horses, unloading 
wagons, pitching tents, cooking, &c., &c. (making their 
extemporaneous settlement in the wilderness), to go afoot 
this long half mile and return burdened with wood and 
water. Such is a peace campaign ; but cheerfulness 
makes all light. We had halted at noon at one of those 
crystal streamlets, which in meandering, protect and 
foster little green islands in prairie seas ; sweet groves, 
where every shrub, and vine, and flower seem to seek 
refuge, and joyously to flourish, in defiance of the flame- 
storms which subdue all around : — like fairy bowers they 
are in summer season ; their cool recesses are vocal with 
happy birds ; they refresh and charm every sense, which 
fatigue and privation make keenly alive to enjoyment. 
An hour — almost of happiness — passes, and we take up 
our burdens and part forever ! Our camp mayhap Avill be 
an inhospitable waste, — and such is the type of a soldier's 
life. Indeed, it gives it all its zest : the excitements of 
change and uncertainties ; the unlooked-for pleasure, and 
the difiiculty overcome. 

Friend. — Never was there such an escape ! In fact, 
you did not quite escape, and nearly spoiled your honest 
but faint description of natural beauties by a lamer flight. 



286 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Your " almost happiness !" — and " burden," of life did 
you mean ? for I never saw one lighter mounted on a 
finer horse ! But I really congratulate you on arriving 
so safely in a sober " camp"' in the midst of this very flat 
earth. 

" Amigo mio ! Didn't you desert me on the eve of a 
snow-storm, like many another friend of so honest mouth- 
ing ! And is a touch of poetry a bad companion in diifi- 
culty and trial? Never a bit; it was the boon of a God 
— Wisdom was ever feminine." 

Friend. — Phew ! The fit is on ! Sorry I said a word ! 
I supposed frost and starved horses, — the sight of poor 
women to-day trudging the weaiy road, — the driving poor 
beef instead of the spirit-striving chase, would have tem- 
pered you to the philosophy of a very materialist (male 
or female). 

"Poor women, indeed ! Three weeks ago they parted 
from every comfort — severed ties of kindred, even of 
country, and their journey is scarce begun — a short 150 
miles with 1800 more before them ! What privations are 
here ; what exposure to bad weather, cooking unsheltered ; 
they must unsex themselves and struggle with all the 
sterner toils which civilization happily casts upon the 
harder and rougher male." 

Friend. — Is it possible that many of them ivillingly 
follow thus their life's partners for all the "worse?" 

"Heaven knows! we passed an old lady of sixty 
Avhom I have often seen kindly dispensing a comfortable 
hospitality, and I cannot believe that she is content to 
give up the repose which her years, her virtues, and her 
sex entitle her to ; but strange ! she wore a cheerful 
smile, and said her health improved." 

Friend. — And that child — that poor little boy, who 



IN THE ARMY. 287 

barefooted limped along, liolding to the wagon, how piti- 
able he seemed. 

"Ah! but he may be one day the 'gentleman from 
Oregon,' who arrived in last night's cars, and to-day 
takes his seat in his arm chair in the Capitol." 

Friend. — Did you hear of the wedding last night? 

" Between three days' acquaintances ! a fine girl she 
for a new country ! Such are our best diplomatists for 
Great Britain." 

Friend. — But how cool you are ; I thought .it would 
kindle your romance. I'll wager my meerschaum to 
those Sioux moccasins, that you make a goose-quill flight 
of it yet. We shall read of a wild and wilful — a bright- 
eyed nut-brown maid of the prairies, and her loves with 
a bold horseman of the mountains, — of the eagle feather 
nobility, whose love-tokens are scalplocks — perhaps a 
dusky rival. 

" Hold ! I accept the wager ; hand me the ink-horn ; 
here goes for the poetry of matrimony {tvrites) : ' Mar- 
riage on the Prairies — A driver of oxen — a homespun 
matter-of-fact lad, not a " leather-stocking," but clad in 
dirty woollens, — having for sometime observed with long- 
ing eyes a fair friend of the company — that is, for three 
nights they had made their solitary beds on the banks of 
the same streams, — and that she was the possessor of a 
red blanket, an extra blanket; and he, the wretch, all 
cheerless, and cold o'nights (and that accursed frost !) 
with nothing between them and the damp earth but a 
worn and well-singed rug ; — forlorn and tempted by 
such splendid attractions, and struck too with the obvi- 
ous truth that two can sleep warmer than one, bluntly 
proposed ; the kind she consented, and their fates (and 
blankets) were united !' As usual, a marriage de con- 



288 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

venance, and I defy you, friend critic, to make more or 
less of it." 

Friend. — Well done ! But I can make more of it ; did 
you not hear the sequel ? 

"Upon my word I have not; what can you mean?" 

Friend. — Pshaw ! This actually occurred. It seems that 
they had no taste for " stars for nuptial torches," and had 
no "cave for bed," and so, unluckily converted a wagon 
into a marriage chamber. Well, they had hardly gone to 
rest, when they found the wagon in motion ! — faster ! — 
faster ! — which, all in the dark, threatened a crisis ; and 
sure enough, down it went, all topsyturvy into a great 
hollow. A scurvy trick that of the young Oregonians ! 

May 26th. We quitted early our camp-ground, and 
soon approached the western and longest branch of the 
Blue, which seems to fulfil its destiny, in leading the Mis- 
sourians by its hospitable waters and fuel, in the direct 
route of their new West ; and, having ministered to their 
necessities, turns them over — the "divide" — to the like 
friendly offices of the Great Platte. 

The muddy and shallow waters and treacherous quick- 
sands of this river, are apt types of the political hacks 
of a late day, who would make it, under its better Indian 
name, Nebraska, godfather to an iniquitous new territory; 
hastening without a shadow of the excuses of " destiny," 
necessity, &c., to break all the last and most binding 
pledges of their country's faith, her voluntary and most 
solemn and plain obligations to the congregated remnants 
of many defenceless tribes of Indians, who own every 
acre of its arable land. 

We were struck with the beauty of this other Blue ; 
its bold hills are indented deeply with narrow vales of a 
thousand forms, their soft green pleasantly relieved by 



IN THE ARMY. 289 

oaks. This, by way of introduction — for the road led us 
hastily away again to a high plain, where we were for 
hours out of sight of all of earth but its grass. But we 
did overtake a long line of wagons, arid a great herd of 
cattle. Passing as rapidly as we might, we learned that 
several such companies were still in advance. The cattle 
were grazing like buffalo on the prairie, and by estimate, 
I hit upon their real number, of one thousand; and then, 
by comparison, was assured that I had seen at once a 
million of buffaloes. We descended at evening into the 
wide savannas of the Blue to make our night-camp. 

A few hours after I had written the last sentence, a 
hurricane passed over us : — it was midnight, and intensely 
dark, the rain falling in torrents ; there was an unceasing 
and strange roar of thunder ; and the furious wind, riot- 
ing with the wet canvass of many tents, sounded a deafen- 
ing accord. The sublime does not frighten, and I Avas 
filled with a joyful excitement. I imagined mammoth 
and mastodon revived, and rushing to repel the invasion 
of their ancient haunts, — exciting to madness by their 
roars attendant multitudes of buffalo and wild horse. 

Next morning a warm sun set us to rights by 9 o'clock. 
We still ascended this western Blue ; crossing now and 
then the feet of the hills protruding into the bottoms ; — 
at times, winding through some great ravine or sand- 
gully, washed by the rains of ages. The bottoms are 
sensibly lessening, but still a fourth of a mile wide ; the 
grass is still deficient from drought ; — but at evening, 
turning short down from a high bluff, we found a sweet 
little valley, of which we seemed the first discoverers ; 
and which, with its grove, was fresh and beautiful from 
the night's rain. 

May 29. To-day — as yesterday — we marched some 



290 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

twenty-two miles, following the stream, and passed near 
night an emigrant company. A cool wind has blown 
from the north ; pure and invigorating ; such as it is a 
pleasure to breathe. The hills are diluvial — mere sand — 
with a soil that scarcely supports their sod. As the hills 
break off near the river, they are washed into many sin- 
gular shapes; and being white, stand in bold relief; 
bright green generally prevailing. Many slopes beyond 
the stream still show their old growth of grass strongly 
resembling ripe wheat ; adjoining are weed stubbles and 
dead trees, which together are the picture of corn-fields 
in new clearings. These surround green meadows and 
hills, with groves and shrubbery, which we easily imagine 
conceal tasteful dwellings. Such beauties, to be seen on 
the stream in a day's ride, must deceive no one ; for 
beyond, all is barren ; and the vast territory, from near 
the rivers to the mountains, has scarce a tree to the square 
mile ; and much of it is little better than a sand desert ; 
even game is seldom found. 

Marching rather late next morning, with no expecta- 
tion of parting from the pleasant guidance of our little 
river, we found after a few miles, that we were ascending 
very gradually a high plain ; the " divide" of the Blue 
and the Platte ; no water was then to be found for twenty- 
three miles, unless pools of the late rain. We found such 
a pool at mid-day — and an emigrant party : this, for a 
specimen, was ascertained to be composed of thirty-one 
men, thirty-two women, and sixty-one children ; twenty- 
four wagons, and two hundred and twelve cattle. 

We also met, on the ridge, Pawnees with some two 
hundred horseloads of dried buffalo flesh, which they were 
conducting to their village, perhaps seventy miles lower, 
on the Platte. This is a temporary supply. After get- 



IN THE ARMY. 291 

ting their corn fairly growing, the whole tribe moves off 
on their summer hunt. On the summit, a rather singular 
incident happened to me. I fired a pistol at a trouble- 
some dog, which was then chasing some loose mules ; it 
resented this attempt on its life in a quiet, but ferocious 
manner ; absolutely fastening its teeth in the ham of the 
horse I rode ; of course he kicked and plunged with great 
violence, taking me by surprise, — for I did not know at 
the moment the cause — and very nearly throwing me : I 
then fired again and killed the brute. It happened that 
the head of the long column was then about to meet the 
Pawnees ; and a report was just received of their having 
robbed and maltreated some straggling emigrants ; alto- 
gether, they had a technical " alarm," of which — with 
the excitement of my pitched battle with the dog — we, in 
the rear, were profoundly ignorant ; and a little while 
after, I was astonished at a rebuke for my contribution to 
it, of the two shots ; the Colonel being equally ignorant 
of my reasonable excuse, and of our private enieute. 

We arrived, near sundown, on the hills of sand border- 
ing the remarkable valley of the Platte. Between us and 
the river lay two miles of level green savannas ; the wide 
expanse of the great river was in part concealed by Grand 
Island, and its woods. It was a beautiful sight ! — the 
squadrons were gliding, two abreast, along gentle curves, 
over the fresh green grass, which was brilliant in the slant 
rays of a clear sun. The horses had a gallant bearing ; 
— fifty blacks led ; fifty grays followed ; then fifty bays ; 
next fifty chestnuts — and fifty more blacks closed the pro- 
cession : the arms glittered ; the horses' shoes shone 
twinkling on the moving feet. It was a gay picture, set 
in emeralds. Just then a hare, of the large black-eared 
species, bounded away from the front, pursued by a swift 



292 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

dog ; it was a beautiful chase for a mile over the green- 
sward, which we insensibly halted to witness. 

The broad bottoms of the Platte are nearly level, and 
but from two to six feet higher than the water ; they are 
composed of sand, through which the river expands to its 
level from bluff to bluff, — often ten or fifteen miles. 
There is no rising above the universal flatness ; and it 
resembles the ocean mouths of most great rivers. You 
have a horizon of green meadows, and sometimes of 
Avater. 

We encamped on the bank. We had, in twelve days, 
marched two hundred and fifty miles ; and partly as ex- 
plorers. 

May 31. The trumpet sounds of reveille called us 
forth this morning, as usual, under arms ; and we instantly 
"W'itnessed a scene of beauty and of sublimity, which the 
wanderer over the earth sees now and then when least 
expected. Above the river, and the unlimited plain to 
the west, dotted with white wagon-tops and vast herds 
grazing, densely black clouds, driven by a strong wind, 
came thundering on wrathfully ; the lightnings crashed 
from mass to mass ; from beneath, the muddy and trou- 
bled waves, almost black with shadow, seemed rushing on 
in league with the Storm-Power, to overwhelm us. 

But turn to the east ! The sun is calmly rising over 
a glittering expanse of water, and shedding a rosy glory 
o'er half the heavens ; but the west, from amid intenser 
shadows, gives but a reflection of baleful hue ! It seemed 
a rebellion of the Powers of Darkness against the Spirit 
of Light. As if to interpose, three hundred men in arms 
then rose up in the very midst. 

This was a wondrous reality, breaking, all unprepared, 
on eyes that had been closed the still night long, and 



IN THE ARMY. 293 

minds suddenly aroused from dreams of quiet home- 
scenes. 

How singular, that wow, as I write on the same spot, 
we have this scene reversed ! The sun is sinking serenely 
on the western wave ; while in the east, a black cloud 
mutters a menace of its power in the coming night. Sad 
types of the world's doings, and ever varying but un- 
ceasing warfare of good and evil. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Having rested a day, the march was resumed up the 
bank of the Platte. A sfrange river and country it is ! 
You may ride all day without encountering an object to 
break its sameness ; — not a tributary — a ravine, a tree. 
To-day the river formed again a portion of the unbroken 
horizon ; — is this the case with any other inland river in 
the world ? 

A south wind — on our left hand — blew so fiercely as to 
make it difficult for horses to keep the road ; nevertheless, 
we marched twenty-six miles — hoping to find good grass, 
but in vain ; and there is no fuel nearer than a mile from 
the camp. At this point it is scarcely — strictly speaking 
— a "bottom," for there is a rise of about four feet in 
one thousand, from the water's edge : and the soil and 
grass have the characteristics of hill prairie. 

June 1. — The wind continued, — a perfect gale — nearly 
all night ; covering everything with a penetrating dust, 
which it raised from the prairies, so lately soaked. There 
is a breeze now from the northeast. Last night, sandbars 

26* 



294 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

in the river on our windward side were bare : this morn- 
ing they are covered with water ; while others have ap- 
peared on the other side, now the Avindward : this pheno- 
menon must result from the wind ; its forcing the shallow 
water of the very wide river from one channel to another; 
they being divided by very extensive islands and bars, 
which must assist in continuing such an eifect. Most 
provokingly, we found this morning good grass extending 
for ten miles. After all, this strange river has its 
beauties ; nay, there is all the variety consistent with 
the prevailing flatness. For miles, this forenoon, it was 
charming : there was a labyrinth of islands adorned 
with tree and shrub of every shape ; some very long, 
forming vistas, — others, mere dots of verdure, like eme- 
ralds set in silver : from thence, the bright summer day 
was saluted with songs of birds ; the cheerful and chatty 
blackbird, the whistling curlew, the gay lark, and — queen 
of songsters — the mocking-bird. Then, I observed a view 
as strange as beautiful : long narrow islands were fringed 
with tree-tops, through and above which I could see 
extensive strips of water ; then came the opposite bank 
with trees just alike, which were relieved against the sky : 
but water and sky appeared the same ! — thus there were 
Uvo horizons of beautiful trees, which the eye could not 
distinoruish ! This novel illusion extended for miles. 

But the prairie does not always charm the eye or the 
imagination : often its sameness and the monotony of 
slow motion, lull us to dreamy thought ; then happily, we 
create of solitude a world of our own ; or people it with 
the loved absent, or the long dead. To-day, by an easy 
association, I dreamed of the old warrior explorers from 
Spain — ere her glory died — of De Soto, Cortez, and 
others. Hernando Cortez ! What a name is there ! 



IN THE ARMY. 295 

What hero of antiquity excelled him? None but Caesar. 
His military genius resembled Alexander's ; but — as in 
the comparison of our Washington Avith the world's cap- 
tains — with an allowance for the scale of action and of 
means. [His passage of the Delaware, and subsequent 
campaigns, gave indications of what he might have done ?) 
The master-stroke of the career of Cortez, was his despe- 
rate march to Vera Cruz, and his attack and defeat of 
the braggart Narvaez and his vastly superior numbers. 
Truly, his were enthusiastic genius, energy, and constancy, 
beyond all proportion to what Providence implants or 
requires in man in ordinary times. In the world's story, 
among all wondrous events, in Mexico alone History and 
Romance form a unity. And Cortez, like Columbus, 
was self-made ; he forced his way over great obstacles, 
with which that age heaped the paths of aspirants from 
the low classes. 

About noon we saw a company of some fifty wagons, 
winding a toilsome way to the high grounds : it was 
a proceeding as inexplicable as unusual, and gave rise 
to much conjecture: at last it stopped; we came up 
abreast — far to their right : then soon we learned the 
truth : they were burying an infant ! It is Sunday ; 
forty-seven wagons and families form a procession, which 
so slowly and painfullly leaves far its course to reach 
that grassy hill which poetic affection would choose for a 
place of sepulture. There the}'^ solemnly consign to the 
unblessed earth, — to the howling wilderness — the father's 
hope — the mother's love and her pride. Pity her ! it is 
no common loss ! Wonderfully must the outward pres- 
sure of hardship, severance from the world and its dis- 
tractions, — the solitudes of wild Nature, the want of 
kindred sympathies — strengthen the bonds of family love ! 



2U6 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Pity the mother! who bears a burdened heart to encounter 
her rugged and unkind destiny. Honor those hardy 
woodsmen for their attentions ! their hearts are right. 

But "march! march!" — shift the panorama! The 
sandhills approach the river ; they are elevated and pic- 
turesque ; and here is the first prairie-dog village (and, as 
I expected, their inseparable bufialo-grass) : the dogs are 
in great excitement, and never saw such sights. See that 
old gossip with eager and important bustle, rushing with 
the news from door to door ! but she is now excusable, 
and may tell the truth: behold hundreds of horsemen, — 
a hundred wagons, — hundreds of cattle, — and sheep too! 
But these marmots are a hackneyed subject. There are 
beautiful antelopes too, which excite the hunters. It 
had turned sultry ; white clouds shut in the warm atmo- 
sphere, and reflect back the heat like an oven lid : ahead 
of us, for a wonder, is a creek-bed, fringed far into the 
hills with tree and shrub ; we pass on, and turn into a 
sweet green bay (or bend) of fresh grass, and skirted 
with trees : they are on islands, to which we must wade 
for fuel ; but are close by. Here we make our camp : the 
sun shines out brightly, but muttering thunders marshal 
forth black clouds : instantly the wide greensward is alive 
with horses, rolling and neighing with the delight of re- 
lease and welcome food : next rises, as by magic, a canvas 
city : the men run over the islands for the driest sticks : 
curling smokes soon give token of supper. We turn and 
look back ; at a little distance is a long line of wagons, 
attended by lowing herds. Just now an antelope dashes 
between, pursued by greyhounds ; shot after shot are 
fired ; the poor animal is hit, — falters, — is pulled down. 
What an animated invasion of this primeval solitude : the 



IN THE ARMY. 297 

prairie nymphs must shrink in amaze ! Since the world 
began, this beautiful meadow was never peopled thus. 

June 2. — There has been a hard rain in the night; and 
its quiet was disturbed by yells from an emigrant camp, 
half a mile off: why they should thus play Indian, is be- 
yond my comprehension. We march early : the bottom 
widens much, and is very barren ; sand-hills, washed into 
picturesque shapes, and partially green, invariably bound 
our view to the left ; and to the right, the river variegated 
by islands : they nearly all have groves — not regular, 
forest masses ; but each tree has had room to develop, 
and reveals against the sky, untrammelled beauties, and 
in infinite variety. 

We touched near midday the river, and found — which 
is rare — a good watering-place ; the banks are only two 
or three feet high — are generally vertical ; and the horses 
then can scarcely be forced into the opaque water, which, 
if only an inch deep, looks bottomless. It is surcharged 
with mud, and millions of odds and ends of all things 
near, which its great swiftness keeps suspended. Here 
too, was found clear, cool water in a well only two feet 
down ; just above were the remains of many Indian fires, 
and buffalo bones, and the willow frames of old wigwams. 

We are too early for the backward grass season ; but 
here it has been swept off by ten thousand buffaloes. 
After a fatiguing march of thirty-two miles in eleven 
hours, we encamped on a spot which, having escaped the 
annual fires, the buffalo have neglected. There is no fuel 
but bois de vache. 

June 3. — We have rain at camp every night ; but it 
seems to extend little further ; and the dust, when there 
is not a side wind, is so annoying, that we sometimes 
abandon the road. This morning, at marching, blue-black 



2'.>8 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

clouds overhung the sand-hills, to which they imparted 
their hue ; and their irregular sketchy outline presented 
a singular and beautiful appearance ; but it must be a 
very desert that is not pleasing in early summer morn- 
ing ! And if this flattered us with hope, of even the 
picturesque, we were this day disappointed. We had 
once, however, an unbounded water view up the river; and 
the fast growing signs of buffalo gave some excitement to 
the dull march. 

When it was time to stop, there was great difficulty in 
finding any grass. We turned at last into a long strip 
of meadow, between trees and bushes — so very rare on 
shore — and the river-bank : the buffalo has been before 
us, but we have found some scant grazing ; — it is buffalo- 
grass, — very backward, and looks like curled gray horse- 
hair. 

Three fine horses were picketed beyond the screen of 
bushes, out of sight of camp, or any other animals ; as 
usual in such cases, they were uneasy ; imagining, per- 
haps, something fearful in the bushes ; or more likely, 
were excited with the fear of being abandoned in these 
unwonted solitudes : be this as it may, about sundown 
they broke loose, and scampered off for the hills : some 
men Avere hastily mounted and sent in pursuit ; but they 
have returned late, unsuccessful. 

June 4. — Ten men were sent at daylight, on a new 
search : I feared it would be unavailing, as horses will 
join and run with buffalo ; but fortunately, the trails of 
their ropes were discovered in the heavy dew, and they 
were brought back in two hours. Meanwhile, two empty 
wagons were sent back to Missouri, with a small escort, 
with broken-down horses : " all flesh is grass," and the 
grass is very poor. 



IN THE ARMY. 299 

This proved the great day of such excursions : the day 
of meeting buffalo. It was toward noon that they ap- 
peared in large numbers on the hills at our left. Imme- 
diately the fever rose ; and as party after party prepared 
and rode off for the chase, the coolest heads became 
affected : we knew that even better opportunities would 
certainly occur ; but the first fresh view of the chase be- 
came almost irresistible to all but old hands like myself. 
We see them charging belter skelter, up hill and down, 
without prudence, skill, or regard for horse-flesh : the 
perverse wind brings from the rear clouds of dust, which 
adds confusion to excitement. Let me attempt to de- 
scribe a fragment of the scene: a horseman is seen dash- 
ing at a gang of twenty or thirty ; he appears to pene- 
"trate their close order, and they are dividing into two 
parties; he has selected his victim: a puff of smoke ap- 
pears ; the report is heard ; then a wounded buffalo rushes 
forth alone, but followed by the hunter, who is reloading, 
and loses ground : now he gains again ; is very near ; we 
eagerly expect his discharge ; but no ! they are diverging 
rapidly ! the horse has shied in affright, and the buffalo, 
too, has dodged: the horseman pulls up and tries again: 
now he regains his place near the flagging animal ; the 
smoke is seen again, and the report follows more slowly : 
they have stopped; the bull is tired — enraged and despe- 
rate : he is at bay : with a toss of his vast head, he makes 
a sudden and fierce dash at his enemy ! Our hunter 
stops not to show his skill, but flies with prompt good 
will : fifty yards is all, and both again have halted : 
another shot ! and now the bleeding and bafiled beast 
turns to fly again ; and there ! they have disappeared over 
the top of that far off hill. 

An hour or two after, a hoi-seman is seen gradually 



300 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

nearing us ; he approaches very quietly, and puts on an 
air of business-like coolness. Oh ! nothing extraordinary 
has happened; he even appears unconscious that a tongue 
is conspicuously dangling to his cantle. It is his trophy ! 
and, when green, to my taste, good for little else. 

Meanwhile, the " Forks of the Platte" — the junction of 
the "North" and " South" branches — has been passed, 
and few but the guide has known it. Cheated of know- 
ledge and view of a principal point of note ! too bad ! 
We have got far out from either river, and can just see 
the water of one, and a fringe of trees beyond, which, 
no doubt, mark the course of the other. We are ascend- 
ing the South Fork, but shall cross over in a day or tAvo 
to the North. Now we stop to water at a small running 
branch, the first we have seen ; it is without a tree ; a 
buflalo calf approaches, and is evidently trying to join our 
cattle; but some men turn it off: there is the mother, 
which a hunter pursues up the steep hills : it is exhausted, 
but his horse refuses to go near ; he has fired — probably 
ineffectually: we pass on. At 3 o'clock, we encamp at 
some ponds, in the middle of the bottom. Many horse- 
loads of meat are brought in : the buffaloes — nearly all 
cows and calves, — are not yet fat. 

We pass continually companies of emigrants ; they all 
have many breeding cattle. The girls must consider us 
a lively feature of this dull region (or they are not com- 
mon girls). For our part, it is reported that one of them 
has been seen actually — that is, evidently, invested with 
a " tournure ;" who would believe the tyrant Fashion held 
so wide a sway ! 

June 5. — This morning at daylight the buffalo had 
approached so nearly among the horses, that the officer of 
the guard sounded an alarm : they were driven off with- 



IN THE ARMY. 801 

out accident. We were soon abreast of the point of bluff 
between the two rivers : it is eighteen miles above the 
junction ; we are 30° west of the meridian of Washington 
City. We are now fairly on the buffalo grass : its sod is 
a near approach to wooden pavement. This branch is not 
half so large as the main river ; but the general character 
is exactly the same ; near the bluff, but extensively wind- 
ing, is a kind of slough ; the river water soaking through 
the sands here, rises perfectly clear : there is a new fea- 
ture — large bare spots, white with salt. 

Again to-day — and it was very warm — we had buffalo 
chasing, chiefly by officers, who killed an abundant num- 
ber. I now first indulged ; mounting my led horse — too 
spirited and fractious for ordinary use — I passed forward 
to meet a herd that had just forded the river, and I knew 
would cross to the hills a little forward of us, against the 
wind, as their instinct invariably leads them : it was given 
them, it is supposed, for their protection ; but they carry 
it to an extreme, which I have often observed, led to 
their destruction. But my buffalo are in motion, and 
will not wait a discussion : as I passed the head of the 
column, a friend thrust into my hand a six-barrel pistol ; 
taking it almost mechanically, I dashed forward after the 
herd, which are now at desperate speed : my noble Brown 
is in his element, and goes joyfully to work ; he soon 
places me alongside a fortunate bull, whose destiny it is 
to test the value of this patent plaything. With some 
difficulty, I succeeded in snapping it twice, and then con- 
signed it, indignantly, to the uttermost depths of my off 
holster : I now draw my old Harper's Ferry " buffalo 
slayer," and select a barren cow — round behind as a 
barrel — and at five paces — all at full speed — deliver my 
fire ; the shot soon stops her ; she keeps her head toward 

2(i 



302 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

me, and I fire several tim^s before her quick motions 
allow me to strike her full through the lights ; the blood 
instantly spirts from her nostrils, and she is soon out of 
pain — cut up and in a wagon. 

We passed this morning an emigrant camp ; they were 
lying by, — had lost oxen, frightened off by buffalo, — 
several persons were sick, — a poor woman at the point of 
death. This Oregon should be a paradise ! 

The hills beyond the river are wilder and more elevated 
than before — all there looks arid, sandy, desolate ; this 
side, we wade through sand ; all is strange : prairie-dog 
villages ; antelopes ; large gray wolves ; buffalo attract 
but little attention or remark ; but of all, how strange 
seems the eternal wind — the high south wind ; to what 
purpose does it day and night so fiercely blow — blow ! 
A flat muddy river, sand, buffalo, and wind, are the uni- 
verse ! But no ; ungrateful ; three rose-bushes bloom in 
my tent, and I have almost ice-water from a hole in the 
sand close by : and that beautiful hare so gracefully 
bounding over the plain, was it not made for man's plea- 
sure ? or food for wolves ? 

June 6. — The clear stream on which we encamped last 
night, is a very singular one ; it rises in the flats near the 
river ; but does the river supply it ? it is clear and cold, 
has quite a current, and contains fine large fish, which 
the river does not. 

It was a sultry morning, but soon arose the south wind, 
which has blown a gale Avith most unpitying persistence 
all the day. After travelling a few miles, the guide bore 
down to the river ; on the way, we were diverted by the 
pursuit of a young hare, by a number of men on foot ; 
it was captured after many laughable tumbles, occasioned 
by its doubling. 



IN THE ARMY. 303 

The column marched right through the river ; it was 
about eight hundred yards wide, and from eighteen inches 
to three feet deep ; the quicksand made it laborious and 
tedious. The regiment then dismounted, and the horses 
were held to grass wherever it could be found. I passed 
over alone to a long island near the shore ; it was grown 
up with grass, young willows, and the most delicate and 
beautiful rose-bushes, in bloom, and very fragrant. 

I stood on the point of the island and gazed down the 
river, from whence shone the morning sun ; our wagons 
were slowly making the wdnding passage, followed by 
cattle and sheep ; to the right was a vast meadow, which 
insensibly swelled into green hills ; on its bosom, like a 
string of white beads, were seen extending to dim dis- 
tance, the tops of Oregon wagons ; a few buffalo seemed 
calmly looking on ; the hills gradually melted in perspec- 
tive, to a faint, blue horizon, terminating in the water 
view ; for the river here, adorned by many green islets, 
and sparkling in the sunlight, extended below, as far as 
the eye could wander ; on the left was a vast range of 
sand-hills, on which, for ages, the rains and winds had 
worked their pleasure ; exposing, at places, great masses 
of white marl in ftmtastic shapes ; in the foreground, 
armed men and horses lounged or grazed at ease in pic- 
turesque groups. The high wind, though monotonous, 
gave music to the foliage, to the tall grass, and to the 
rippling waves ; these waves, and the unbounded reach of 
river, reminded me of the ocean ; that ocean, whose 
visible grandeur expands the conception to compass the 
vast earth, — whose ceaseless motion types the moral un- 
rest — the troublous action of the toiling world. 

The music of the wind, which hushed or softened to 
accord all other sounds — the happily mingled beauty and 



801 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

majesty of the view — my pleasing and isolated position, 
and the repose, — snatched from that action which now 
was only pictured to the eye, — had an irresistible charm : 
I fell into that dreamy state, in which, while the senses, 
keenly alive, are intoxicated with pleasure, the soul is 
soothed to happy thought ; is winged by beauties to the 
high and abstract sphere of its nobler elements ; or, 
skimming the fairy arches cast by Memory to the oases 
of the desert life behind, there meets in rosy bowers the 
absent loved ! then, blissfully oblivious, we soar again 
with flattering Hope, to fall, with sudden shock, in the 
darkness of the land ahead. For, alas ! while thus we 
dream, stern Care plucks us by the skirts : we shrink, and 
struggle, and linger, to drain the cup of happiness ; but 
our earthly element drags heavily ; a voice, trumpet- 
tongued awakes us to the Real. 

Truly, the trumpet had sounded ; the men, the horses, 
had gone from careless rest to labor ; all the living ele- 
ments of the scene had disappeared ; the sun himself was 
veiled ; and I was now in a wilderness, as tame and dull 
as it had been to every careless mind — to every untutored 
eye. But the fleeting beauty, so faintly described, was 
real ! and its enjoyment was mine ! 

It is wonderful how many go through the world with 
eyes shut, with minds unawake ; but without the keen 
relish of the beautiful, without souls sensitive of lofty 
emotion, they have the enjoyments of animals, and are 
dull to painful reactions. 

June 7. — A winding valley, a hundred paces wide, is 
overhung by a lofty white clifi" on one side, and by the 
thick and most glossy foliage of ash trees on the other ; 
a crystal streamlet murmurs amid the grass, over its 
gravel bed ; a crescent silvers just the top of the preci- 



IN THE ARMY. 305 

pice ; whilst between it and tlie tree-tops, the stars look 
down through this pure dry air, with a wondrous lustre : 
here and there camp-fires, dying out, cast an uncertain 
and pale light upon white tents ; the horses, hungry and 
grazing in the obscurity, doubtful of this strange spot, 
make uneasy sounds, always answered by the rest. Since 
nightfall, an emigrant company, belated like ourselves in 
the passage over to this Northern Platte, passed at ran- 
dom through our straggling camp — blinded by the lights 
- — in much danger of upsets, at which women and chil- 
dren were plaintive, and to the detriment of picket ropes, 
and discomfort of our horses and tired men. 

I was lying on the grass by a small fire, greatly 
fatigued, but with face upturned in dreamy enjoyment of 
all this beauty, so strange to the long w^anderer on tree- 
less plains ; — a sentient beauty ! — of the heavens and 
earth, — which seemed to look down upon me as a long- 
expected guest ! My Friend joined me. 

Friend. — Ah ! gazing at the stars ? The three mortal 
hours we passed on the verge of the table land, whilst 
the guide sought a clew to this strange labyrinth of hills, 
or mountains — 

"And found it; much thanks to the buff"alo, and to 
the aid of their paths" — 

Friend. — Were enough, with an empty stomach, to 
evaporate an ocean of romance. 

" Considering too, how dry it was ; Ave had not drank 
for thirteen hours." 

Friend. — Considering too, you slipped off alone to the 
island yesterday, and " fell asleep ;" but, as I verily 
believe, only dreamed ; for, in our silent ride to overtake 
the regiment, you were still rapt, past all observation. 



306 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

"What on earth was there to observe? there was sand, 
wind, and ten miles !" 

Friend. — And nothing more ? 

" There were wild hills to our right; and I remember 
a great ravine, a torrent bed, which I thought would 
make an excellent ambuscade: nothing more." 

Friend. — Then you overlooked something strange, and 
twenty times repeated, a natural paradox ; a miniature 
and extravagant illustration of the formation of all our 
Western valleys, where the banks are always the highest 
ground ; namely — little ridges of sand and gravel, only 
four or five feet over, all coming from ravines, and cross- 
ing the bottom to the river, and evidently made by water ; 
little aqueducts, with scarce a rim to hold the water ! 
The wind changed, too, and a whirlwind on the river 
raised the water in a column of steam. 

"Ah! I dare say, I Avas still half asleep; the wind 
and waves, and monotonous cries of cattle-drivers on the 
river, were very composing, a regular lullaby. But what 
a mighty table land was crossed to-day, the very top of 
the earth ! While no sense was cognizant of anything 
higher, this plain seemed to slope away ! The total ab- 
sence of forest is essential to this grand illusion, and I 
doubt if Europe present an instance of it." 

Friend. — They seem favorite resorts of buffalo ; we 
observed it on the Arkansas. Those were grand chases 
we had this morning ! 

" To be so unsuccessful ; the buffalo run down a slope 
at racer speed ; their strength is principally before, and 
'they let go all holds.' " 

Friejid. — This oasis is truly beautiful ! and with a 
surrounding wildness and desolation which have a real 
grandeur ; for miles, we seldom see over a gunshot in 



IN THE ARMY. 807 

any direction ; it seemed that nothing but water, which 
had everywhere riven the sides of the steep hills — could 
have found the outlet, which, in fact, it made ; then the 
thin column, far winding, now disappearing in part, and 
next seen in the most unexpected positions ; the grizzly 
bear alarm, and the strangely echoed shouts ; the clouds 
of dust bursting through the gorges ! — nothing gave pro- 
mise of the quiet nook Avhich delights the senses, while it 
ministers to every want. 

" Thanks, for the broken wagon which kept us here, 
whilst the rest went on to the river." 

Friend. — This must be a kind of Indian Post-oflSce : 
we found arrows and lance-poles singularly marked and 
disposed ; and various colored strips of cloth with evi- 
dent arrangement ; a record by symbols, which no doubt 
is plain to them. 

" As I gaze up from this deep vale — now so dark — on 
that planet so serenely bright, the little opening between 
rock and leaves seems but the gateway to a path of ether, 
never so short and inviting ! Methinks I see a pitying 
smile, which reveals the hollow littleness of all our eager 
struggles." 

There are times when the lethargic soul shrinks even 
from itself ; is numb, nothing can excite it ; we forget to 
hope ! And with some such answer, or soliloquy, to 
which I remember no reply, I must have slumbered, 
and dreamed ; but my acts and troubled thoughts were 
lifelike, and of which the stars were certainly no portion. 
I would not repeat it, but I was tortured by a dear friend, 
who seemed to know me not, or to be estranged ; and 
there was a spell as in a nightmare — which always made 
me powerless to clear up the cause or exact nature of 
the calamity. This heart-pain half aroused me ; but I 



308 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

scarce knew where I was : there was a sense of something 
wrong ; but mj apathy, or a kind of ennui of sleep, was 
so profound, that I lay wondering whether or not I still 
belonged to the world ; and so, must have slept again ; for 
then I surely dreamed. A night alarm in an ancient castle 
led me to the gate. And though all were then dumb with 
fear, I knew that a flood was coming down far slopes and 
threatened death ; but beyond, I looked and saw, on a 
plain which was a lofty mountain top, a vast multitude ; 
the earth's habitants, mingled, I thought, with celestial 
visitants ; for their faces shone ; they sat motionless on 
horses, and wore helmets and bright mail ; but Terror 
was on the multitude, and a baleful and uncertain light 
shone from their midst. Then, there was a rush down- 
ward of strange animals, like elephants and horses; which, 
I thought, would trample down all that stood in their way : 
next, the mailed warriors charged, with lances set, upon 
flying men on foot, who were like no others I ever saw ; 
of pale red countenances, and strange garments and 
mien ; they too were armed, and resisted, but many were 
slain ; and, as they drew near, the warriors fought too, 
with each other ; and thus was supeimatural war brought 
with awful reality, to the very door, which I struggled to 
maintain against them all. Suddenly I was in a hall 
with several of those who had fled on foot, and asked 
them in the Spanish tongue, who and whence they were ? 
and was astonished that they knew such language, when 
they answered, "From Egypt." 

Next I was conscious of flickering gleams of light, 
which seemed reflected from cavernous arches, and of 
rumbling reverberated sounds. I was half awake with 
awe, which fancy again was softening, when a glare of 
light — a crash, as from the crags over head, and a sadden 



IN THE ARMY. 309 

fall of water, recalled me to life, and my aching limbs to 
motion ; and I stood upon my feet in 'Ash Hollow.' " 



CHAPTER VIII. 

June 8th. — The excessive fatigue of yesterday's inte- 
resting march, — the mournful and wild dreams, and the 
storm of the bivouac, having all passed away with the 
night, the sun rose with dazzling beauty upon the ro- 
mantic glen. Nature, as if in the freak of a most smiling 
mood, has there assembled in the desert the admired fea- 
tures of her favorite regions : the contrast is delightful at 
meeting ; painful at parting. 

Thus, wander where we will, man is at best, 

"A pendulum betwixt a smile and tear." 

But sometimes our frail mechanism goes all wrong ; the 
tear is a shower; and the smile, but a ray of fleeting 
light. 

Leaving then only too early the most sparkling and 
rich foliage, the white cliffs and the crystal streamlet of 
that narrow valley — which some wretch has named Ash 
Hollow — we Avere soon monotonously clanking our rusty 
sabres over the flat sands of the Northern Platte, — this 
twin offspring of mountain and homely plain. But truth 
to tell, just here, for fourteen miles which we marched to- 
day, this bank of the river is broken into hill and ravine ; 
the white sand scarce shaded by weeds, and the bluffs, 
near by, deeply washed by rains, were wild and desolate ; 
and there were cliffs of marly rock ; and one of indurated 



310 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

clay, under Avhich we marched, was honeycombed by thou- 
sands of swallows, which gaily circled and twittered over 
our heads. 

We passed also two gravel beds of streams, now dry, 
that were positive ridges ; and actually, on one side, — 
marked by a slight margin of grass, — Avithout a bank ! 

Amid all the arid desolation, as usual, were some beau- 
tiful delicate flowers ; honeysuckles, and the white and 
fragrant bloom of mosses. I thought they redeemed and 
softened it — as sometimes Pity the desolation of heart. 

It was the fate of a melancholy buff"alo, whether mis- 
used and misanthropic, — shunning the vulgar herd, — or 
exiled as an old and hardened sinner to this solitude, to 
encounter us here ; and it was the unhappy destiny of a 
very Nimrod amongst us, defiant of scorching sun and 
sand, oblivious that no centaur, he rode a hapless horse, 
and taking to his eyes the " scales" of this ancient beast, 
to give him impetuous chase. The bull truly fled with a 
lean and hungry speed ; but followed, like a manifest 
destiny, the beaten track careless of all evasion, right on 
— on ! Seduced, perhaps by this facility, my friend, the 
Nimrod, pursued thus mile after mile, straight on ! — dis- 
appearing at times, to be marked again by the shining 
sand he ever scattered to the air ; and finally we saw that 
he had fired, and the chase disappeared. This unerring 
and deadly shot after so long and pertinacious a pursuit, 
gave him credit with us all ; until at last, we came up ; 
and there surely lay the bull : but, strange to say, no 
scrutiny could discover a wound ! — and soon the marvel 
was, how he had lived so long ; he had only closed a long- 
standing mortgage to the crows ; — the ardent hunter was 
not there to dispute possession I He had suddenly be- 



IN THE ARMY. 311 

come interested in some imdiscoverable object whicli hap- 
pened to lay far from the road. 

June 9. — The country is rather less wild in appear- 
ance, and the bottom smoother ; but there is still much 
bare sand ; limestone rock occurred in the dry bed of a 
wide water-course. 

The pest of a light dust-bearing breeze from behind 
may be noticed, as- giving a color to one's thoughts, as 
well as linen ; although, in truth, both are habitually 
chequered. Pity it is, that petty annoyances muddy so 
much the current of our lives. 

" 'Tis the vile daily drop on drop that wears 
The soul out (like the stone) with petty cares."' 

Happy his philosophy, who weighs them as dust in the 
balance ! For my part I manage generally to laugh at 
material troubles ; for those that attack the soul, I com- 
mend as a remedy such a chase as another friend of mine 
took this morning. He was following at the heels of a 
small herd of buifalo with that reckless rush, to which in 
glad excitement we then abandon ourselves, when a great 
bull, just before him, popped into a gully ; the horse 
plunged on him, sending his rider sprawling, but with 
accuracy between the bull's horns ! The first of this in- 
teresting group to recover his legs, was the horse, which 
ran oflf with alacrity several miles. Next the bull rose, 
and shook himself, very much with the astonished air, I 
imagine, of the lassoed Kentuckian, who " liked to know 
how that was done." Meanwhile my friend is on his back 
at the bull's feet; "imagine his pheelinks." I once 
threw a bone at such a beast, who, " smarting with his 
wounds grown cold," reared up and brought down both 
hoofs with a precision and force, that mushed it to powder ! 



312 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

This bull, perhaps, took the affair for a practical joke, 
and giving the gentleman one good look — which he will 
remember — with great good nature ran off. Had he been 
wounded, or distressed and enraged bj the chase, he had 
killed him ! 

We met here a number of boats laden with buffalo 
robes ; and although drawing but eight inches of water, 
they had been some two months descending the hundred 
miles from Fort Laramie ; the hardy boatmen, who are 
also the trappers, hunters, &c., of the Fur Company, 
spending perhaps half the time in the water. Only for 
a short season in favorable years, is the river navigable 
at all. This attempt was now abandoned ; and wagons 
and carts had been sent for to transport the packs back 
to the Fort ! 

These men, called Engages^ are generally French Cre- 
oles — and form a small class as distinct in character from 
any other, as is the sailor from his fellow-bipeds who dwell 
upon shore. But with, if possible, less of forecast, he some- 
what resembles the said sailor — isolated on the prairie 
desert, as the other on the sea. He has a patient and 
submissive obedience, with a seeming utter carelessness of 
privations, such as would drive a seaman to mutiny ; with 
the same reckless abandon to some transient and coarse 
enjoyments, he is a hardy and light-hearted child of nature 
— of nature in her wildest simplicity : and in these, her 
solitudes, he receives a step-mother's care, and battles 
with a stout heart against her most Avintry moods. He 
resembles the Indian, too, and is generally of kindred 
blood ; he possesses his perseverance, his instinctive sa- 
gacity, and his superstition. A very Gascon, he has the 
French cheerful facility of accommodation to his fated 
exigencies, and lightens all by an invincible and conta- 



IN THE ARMY. 813 

gious mirth. He is handsome, athletic, active; dresses 
chiefly in buckskin ; wears a sash and knife ; lives pre- 
cariously, generally on flesh alone ; is happy when his 
pipe is lit ; arid when he cannot smoke, sings a song. He 
is armed and vigilant while at his severest labors. 

He joyously spends his ten dollars a month in alcohol, 
tobacco, coff"ee, and sugar, and in gaudy presents to some 
half-breed belle ; paying the most incredible prices for 
these extravagant luxuries. 

June 10. — The nights are cold ; the mornings warm, 
until about 9 o'clock, when a breeze springs up, ending 
generally in a very disagreeable gale. We came in sight 
early this morning of the " Court-house," a hill, or 
immense mound, which strongly resembles such a build- 
ing, with wings; it rests imposingly on a blufi"; the sides 
are near a cream color, with apparently, a black roof. 
The country is much smoother and pleasanter, and we 
passed to-day a tributary to the Platte, some sixty yards 
wide, and resembling it in its characteristics. Our camp 
is on the river, and without wood fuel. The Court-house 
appears a half mile ofi'; in reality it is four or five. We 
came in sight to-day, also, of the Chimney Rock, at a dis- 
tance of thirty miles ; it had the appearance of a tall post 
seen a mile off". These celebrated formations seem the 
frames of lofty hills, which the elements have wasted 
away ; they seem formed of marl, or a conglomerate to 
which the sand gives the character of mortar. I dis- 
covered to-day the most beautiful species of cactus I have 
ever seen : it is a single sphere resting on the surftice of 
the ground ; the inner leaves of the flower have the most 
delicate shades of pink and flesh color, and the outer a 
pale lilac. A small and delicate species of ground-squirrel 
abounds : it is remarkable for cheerful and exquisitely 

27 



314 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

musical notes ; resembling, but clearer and pleasanter 
than any bird's. 

Those of us ^^ith any anatomical pretensions, are in a 
regular puzzle over a skeleton head of a small quadruped, 
which was found here ; it seems totally deficient in holes 
or sockets for eyes : the verdict is, I believe, that it is a 
nondescript. 

Frieyid. — And how do you like " A Glimmering Light 
on Mesmerism," which I perceive you have been reading? 

" It shows a research quite extraordinary for a soldier 
— generally exposed to much literary privation ; his in- 
quiring and sceptical mind has been excited and puzzled 
by the strange developments, or pretensions of this magi- 
cal philosophy." 

Friend. — In our day the deep searcher of the unknown, 
the wonderful, the occult in science, or religion, fears 
not persecution, but rather neglect ; he cannot interest 
the public mind ; it is the mechanical age, and the great- 
est triumphs of science are the most practical : it is the 
age of steam. 

" Only too true ! Other works of genius are scarcely 
recognized : poetry is as dead as astrology : life is ex- 
hausted, and the mind overpowered in the attempt to mas- 
ter a vast accumulation of facts." 

Friend. — Poets have turned cosmogonists ; and the 
arcana of nature present the only field for speculative 
science ; and there truly is infinite room for observation 
and study, to form synthetic solutions of these mysteries, 
still the dreams of "our philosophy." 

" But even science is at fault — philosophy at a dis- 
count. The public mind is occupied with the theorism of 
demagogues and infidels, who, abandoning tliemselves to 
licentious speculations on human destiny, attract multi- 



IN THE ARMY. 315 

tudes of fanatical followers, whose minds they bewilder, 
and whose morals they debase." 

Friend. — What you say can scarcely apply beyond 
those hotbeds of vice and folly — the great cities ; their 
immense command of the press, which taxes all the pow- 
ers of steam, should not deceive you by its clamor — as it 
does themselves — as to their real magnitude and impor- 
tance to the world. 

" Has it never occurred to you. Friend, that we ought to 

be astronomers? — the science came from desert plains." 

Friend. — Yes, and botanists too ; I think no one can 

be on the prairies without observing much, the motions of 

the stars. 

"I believe that nearly all think only of eating, drink- 
ing, and sleeping ! But nothing perhaps, has been so 
universal a subject of thought and conjecture, in all ages, 
as these beautiful mysteries. What food for poetry, they 
have ever been ! What strong imaginations were re- 
quired to invent the constellations ! But, as if our true 
links to a higher sphere, they have led the human mind 
to a grander reach, — to a more profound and brilliant 
success, by far, than in any other science." 

Friend. — Do you believe the stars are inhabited ? 
" Yes ! I hold with Dr. Chalmers there ; although the 
Book of Genesis has it, that they were set in the firma- 
ment to give light upon the earth ; it is not credible that 
the scheme of creation, with all its wondrous economy, 
— with its infinity of microscopic life, should include 
globes far vaster than our earth, and destitute of life." 

Friend. — Perhaps microscopic life may be an essential 
element of the mysteries of life, death, and reproduction. 
And may not those immense spheres be the balance weights 
of the machine called the universe ? necessary to all the 



316 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

conditions of that wonderful problem of the essential mo- 
tions of the earth ; their creation cost but the word of 
Omnipotence. 

" The thought might have force, in view of our planet- 
ary system alone ; but how with the innumerable other 
suns and systems disposed irregularly at a distance that 
the mind cannot conceive ; telescopic stars that give us 
no light ?" 

Friend. — What sort of beings then, do you suppose to 
dwell in these innumerable worlds ? 

" Men ! Are we not told that we are in God's like- 
ness ? Human intelligences, emanations from Divinity, 
and partakers of God's nature, can differ in myriad worlds 
but in degree : there well may be a greater or less per- 
fection and prevalence of nobility and beauty of form ; 
just as is the case of our different races. I imagine that 
in other spheres, the souls of men have new trials, and 
also rewards, in other stages of existence ; progressing 
toward the infinite, in intelligence and happiness. Shall 
we sleep in death many thousand years ? Scripture in- 
dicates a suspension of our final sentences, until the day 
of judgment." 

Friend. — Some astronomers tell us that no planet is 
fitted to support life ; they are too hot, or cold, or soft. 

" Perhaps the reflection escaped them, that the torrid 
zone would be fatal to an Esquimaux, or a Polar bear ! 
Astronomers would do well to confine themselves to the 
limits of exact science ; their theories are no more relia- 
ble than those of other men ; they are too prone to clothe 
their sublime though naked framework of discovery; with 
a poetical drapery of mere speculation, which — being little 
more astonishing — is apt to be confounded with fact." 

Friend. — Well, yes : stick to facts. Can you not, from 



I N T n E A R M Y. 61 i 

tliese unknown solitudes, from this virgin soil, contribute 
your mite to the cause of science ? 

" Undoubtedly there is opportunity : but the soldier, 
like others, to succeed must devote himself (and oftener, 
is compelled to confine himself) to his profession. But 
my eyes are open ; perhaps I have at times observed 
something new. But how much knowledge is necessary 
to decide what ^s new ? For instance, it may have been 
observed and recorded, for what I know, hundreds of 
years ago, that the slightest culture — the mere disturbance 
of the soil — in barren regions, excites new growths. About 
the gardens of our prairie outposts, spring up weeds, 
shrubs, bushes, and trees, far away from any the like. 
But it is my observation, and inference, that the earth 
everywhere contains the germs of growths suited to the 
climate ; that these germs or principles of vegetable life 
are a part or property of soils, lying dormant, in some 
cases for ages, ready for an exciting cause and the pro- 
per time to be developed for the use of man, or other 
animal." 

Frietid. — I have heard that the plantain and James- 
town-weed have followed the footsteps of the pioneers of 
our continent, — making their progress from ocean to 
ocean. 

"And it is true, so far as I have had opportunity to 
observe ; and I have heard the same asserted of the par- 
tridge and bee, and certainly with a color of truth. But 
a very great obstacle of science, is an impatient prone- 
ness to theory, leading to a hasty assumption of doubtful 
facts. 

" It would now be easy and comfortable to assume, that 
my guard and sentinels are vigilant ; nevertheless, by 

27- 



318 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

your leave, I shall, as philosophically as possible, betake 
myself to its investigation." 

Friend. — But a last word — you should fail not to note 
in your diary, however dryly, all natural phenomena; 
they may come in play, and serve another if not your- 
self — au revoir ! 



CHAPTER IX. 

June 11th. — We marched ten miles over the smooth 
level, and turned to the river for water. While there, I 
sketched on my knee a striking view, including the Chim- 
ney Rock, still in front of us. Mounting my horse and 
riding on at the signals, immediately the scenery which I 
had admired faded from thought and memory ; there had 
been rain in the night ; and the rare atmosphere and the 
heat of the bright morning, gave rise to a soft and vary- 
ing mirage, which was thrown, like a gauze veil, with a 
charming grace and exquisite illusion, upon scenery of 
strange beauty : truly — 

"At airy distance with majestic motion." 

Although as indescribable as the dream structures of 
uncontrolled fancy, the ever varying and fantastic beau- 
ties seen this day, leave a vivid impression ; and I attempt 
faithfully, however feebly, to paint them ; for they must 
surprise, if they give not pleasure. 

On the left and front, was the continuous hill range, of 
infinite variety of shape, — the wild sport of the elements 
— and of coloring too : the white and yellow marl and 
sand ; the green grass ; the dark blue cedars on the tops 
of mound and cliff ; and the moving procession of shadows 



IN THE ARMY. 3l9 

from the light mist clouds ; for the life and grace of mo- 
tion pervaded every element of the scene. On the left, 
the square bluflfs were like the Hudson Palisades, with 
here and there a pilaster of silvery white ; right in front, 
stood the lofty white Chimney Rock, like the pharos of a 
prairie sea ; beyond, were white cliffs with green domes ; 
broken in places into cones and pyramids ; still further, 
but towering, was a majestic mound, in the shape of our 
national Capitol; more to the right, and looming afar 
over river and plain, was "Scott's Bluff," a Nebraska 
Gibraltar ; surmounted by a colossal fortress and a royal 
castle, it jutted on the water ; thus sharply defining from 
the pale blue horizon, of the unbounded river beyond, a 
vast bright bay, reaching fifteen miles, nearly to our feet. 
We are moving on : a mile is passed ; the pillar seems 
no nearer ; Gibraltar has now its vast sides shaded a 
beautiful blue ; but a low bank of cloud from the right, 
extends before it like a belt. We move on : the Palisades 
seem to advance and retire ; to rise ; to darken, and shine 
again like silver ! Another mile : Gibraltar sinks ; the 
cloud increases and grows black. A mile on, — and this 
cloud has suddenly become a prairie-hill close by ! rising 
on the river flats (as I never saw one before), extending 
to the water, which it actually overhangs seventy feet ! 
Refraction cannot 7iow flatten and obscure it, and show 
us — as it did — the mirage sea with its lovely shore be- 
yond ; and, joining that in front, make it an island, or 
suspended cloud. Gibraltar is eclipsed ; but to the left, 
now is seen a bright river, flowing amid groves, into a 
great city : noble buildings are there ; turreted cathe- 
drals ; colossal ruins : certainly we shall soon be at its 
gates ! A mile on ; — the mound is now behind ; the 
mirage river has vanished ; the city fades from view ; but 



820 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

tlie mountain fortress looms again, far round the bright 
waters of the bay ; mighty bulwarks now appear ; bas- 
tions and turrets ; all of bright colors : the summits posi- 
tively swarm with guards and sentinels ! Can they 
possibly be cedars ? Is it near and real, or very distant ? 
Where are we ? The mountains are in masquerade and 
mazy motion ! Cannot the expanded eye detect phan- 
tasma ? Is it the common earth ? What magic is here, 
to new-fashion the solid hills into fantastic forms ! Fairy 
fingers weave the shining mists into robes of air-born 
grace and beauty — which the sun illumes, but not eluci- 
dates ! 

It is the simple truth. I know noiu, that the vast 
bay was not river alone, but not how great a part was 
mirage ; and that strange movmd, wdiich, though so close, 
at first appeared not, and was then mistaken for a cloud ! 

But we move on ; the pillar of Pale Rock is at length 
passed — a mile to our left — grand, solemn, stern — like a 
monument to Time — the silent desert record. Still on ! 
Yonder to the left, a vast palace appears ; it is no ruin, 
— the roof and chimney stand ; a near hill had hid it. 
And now, we gradually ascend a smooth plain to a great 
elevation ; and scenery grand and beautiful without illu- 
sion opens to view ; there is an amphitheatre of five miles 
extent ; a semicircle ends near our left at the " Capitol ;" 
every variety of shape and color too, which the earth 
contains, seems assembled round : there, is evidently a 
Titanic brick-kiln, with no particle of verdure ; pyramids ; 
white hills, with domes of green ; cliffs crowned with fu- 
neral cedars : in front, majestic Gibraltar, — far distant 
still — strangely colored gray, and blue, and white ; and 
above all, the top of Laramie Mountain — ninety miles 



INTHEARMY. 321 

away ! Just tlien, an antelope was chased, far tlirough 
the amphitheatre. 

We begin to descend toward the river, as dark clouds 
gather ; and we discover beyond it, the white lodges of a 
great band of the Sioux ; the master-spirits and terror of 
the plains ; their horses — a numerous herd — are grazing 
in the meadows. We hasten to a camp-ground at the 
water edge ; for the wind rises, and thunders reverberate ; 
our tents are raised just as vivid lightning sends the first 
big drops pattering to the earth. The Indians are now 
mounted and shouting ; and with their robes and long 
hair streaming in the gale, dash fearlessly into the broad 
waters of the river, which look black and threatening 
with the shadows of the storm. 

This day, whose light has shed such wondrous beauty 
on these wild scenes, is nearly done ; and the exhilarating 
thunder-shower over, I cast my looks around, eager to 
enjoy some glories more ; and, lo ! a shining pillar, far 
away among the clouds ! All the outer world is lost in 
misty shadow, save this prairie pharos : of all the visible 
earth, the sun shines only there ! It stands a pillar of 
silvery light amid the dark shadows of cloud and rain, 
and coming night. And now it fades to gray, and ap- 
pears strange and phantom-like, amid the solemn clouds. 

Night. — In the silent camp the friends are lounging in 
the mouth of a tent looking out upon the starlight. 

Friend. — This is a memorable day ; and we might pass 
here, perhaps a hundred times, without being greatly 
struck with the scenery, which the elements seem to have 
combined to adorn for our delight ; but it must be the 
most picturesque on the river. I see you have been mak- 
ing copious notes ? 



322 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 

" Yes ; do you apprehend that any effort of enthusiasm 
can add embellishment to the subject?" 

Friend. — I must confess, not. There are natural 
beauties ; such as the coloring of sky and cloud, which 
painter or poet scarce dare attempt to express ; never- 
theless, there may be in the effort, an ill done or ap- 
parent straining for effect, which may deceive a reader 
into the suspicion of exaggeration. 

" This ' Scott's Bluff, is a wonderful mountain ; we 
are miles off yet (we saw it at fifty) ; and to the last 
moment of light, there was the same chameleon change of 
coloring ; the guards and sentinels still !" 

Friend. — One view of it, I am told, resembles strongly 
some picture of Stirling Castle. 

" In the excitement of the visit of the Sioux men and 
women — did you see the ' Chimney Rock' suddenly re- 
appear?" 

Friend. — Admirable ! A lofty pillar of fire amid the 
dark clouds ! its base was hidden by distance ; but I was 
as much struck by the sunset, or rather with the strange- 
ness of its apparent renewal after almost darkness — 
which the clouds must have occasioned ; when they broke 
away — but it was at the north — what a startling but calm 
beauty and splendor of coloring appeared; and how long 
it lasted. 

" I saw it all ; there were still dark clouds at the north- 
west, where the sun went down." 

Friend. — Our friends, the Sioux, — of the Oglollah and 
Brule bands, — came in Avith the thunderstorm, with a 
fine, indeed startling effect ; but for the women, I should 
have imagined they were dashing through the river to 
attack us. I was delighted with their fearless and hearty 
bearing ; but the contrast of the men and women is painful. 



IN THE ARMY. 323 

" The Sioux are rather my favorites : their freedom 
and power have imparted to the warriors — the men — 
some gentlemanly qualities : they are cleanly, dignified, 
and graceful in manner ; brave, proud, and independent 
in bearing and deed. Their misfortune, their deep stain 
— the law of barbarism — is their treatment of women ; 
they apply to them the brute law of the stronger ! 

" Woman, the martyr ! who rises only, and rises ever, 
as mind feeding upon knowledge, ascends to the throne of 
humanity ! Oh ! how powerful is education with its first 
impressions; how strong the harness of association and 
habit — despotic mental habit, which chains the very soul !" 

Friend. — Truly, these squaws bear the mark ; bright- 
eyed as some of them are, a few only seem really to have 
souls. But, do I understand you, that you esteem woman 
equal, or superior to her mate ? 

" I have made that ever a question to myself. We say. 
Nature has given her an inferior part to play ; that is, 
has assigned to her duties, which we choose to call infe- 
rior : but there, she actively exhibits beautiful and high 
qualities, which we seldom possess, and underrate ; how 
magnanimous is their patience, their self-denial and de- 
votion ! They are different from men. How generally 
in society, with the audacious but seldom denied claim to 
civilization, do men (alas ! uneducated), like savages look 
upon them and treat them as drudges, — laborers in their 
service and ministers to their pleasure. And Avhat ever 
saves them from this common treatment, and the real 
degradation which it inevitably entails?" 

Friend. — Religion ? 

" Religion truly, elevates mankind ; but, compared to 
•women, how very few men indeed are religious. It is a 
proof of her naturally superior refinement ; and doubtless 



32-1: SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

her recompense for many ills ; but it exaggerates her 
virtues to a humble resignation, of ^^'hich the obtuse and 
hard hearts of men only take advantage. No ! the remedy 
is the appreciating refinement of mental culture, delicacy 
of taste, a high sentiment of the Beautiful — in a word, 
the spirit of Poetry ! How palpably did the Providential 
romance of an otherwise barbarous age — of chivalry — 
rescue her from slavery and place her so near her proper 
level !" 

Friend. — All must observe that the noblest, and in 
general the most eminent men, evince the highest regard 
for women; that a profound and deferential respect for 
them is the first characteristic of a perfect gentleman. 
But would you, like the knights of old, convert love into 
worship ? Do you advocate the blind devotion which led 
to violence and bloodshed ? 

" No ; you mistake a concomitant for a cause ; the re- 
deeming virtue of those ages was this romantic devotion, 
but tinctured, of course, with prevailing rudeness and 
crime. Love, always powerful, was ennobled and purified 
by martial romance ; and, thus allied, was successful 
against barbarism. Worn out by change, romance is 
gone ; but poetry, its vital element, is left ; and its re- 
fined spirit alone can save love from materialism and 
degradation, and elevate its objects, so that man can bow 
with respectful devotion. I view woman as born superior; 
and often nobly sacrificing herself for our sake ; the 
minister to, and our only hope for happiness. Striving 
always to make us more worthy of ourselves, and of her. 
How apt is vain man to undervalue those powers and 
qualities which he possesses not, or cannot understand : 
— as rude workmen despise the physical weakness, or the 
untutored hands of the student, who ennobled by science, 



IN THE ARMY. 325 

pities the lowliness of their mental estate. Woman gene- 
rally lacks that mathematical element, which in man, 
makes him often a little superior to some admirable ma- 
chines ; but she possesses instead, intuitively, certain 
delicate and refined perceptions, which to my mind are 
the 'impress of divinity.' We admit her mind develops 
more rapidly than ours, and call it precociousness ; we 
choose to forget that this superiority lasts while she is 
receiving the education, which we cruelly stint. She is 
our superior in those qualities of our cultivated nature, 
which are so high, that the mass not only possess them 
not, but do not recognize them ; but this is only the case 
when our physical advantage is forgotten in the poetical 
refinement of a just appreciation ; — the homage which 
makes, if it do not find her worthy. 

" Ah ! at humble distance, with all my soul, I have 
sought to study and understand some of these pure and 
beautiful natures, whose beauty was a subtile essence — a 
divine revelation through features that charmed not vul- 
gar souls ; a beauty that inspired a poetic — a pure and 
lasting worship at its altar. How earnestly then should 
woman cultivate and encourage, by every means, this 
romantic devotion, which is so essential to place and sus- 
tain them in their proper sphere. They have to combat 
in the world the sneers, the vices, the sensuality of fallen 
natures ; but man's loss of their just appreciation, is a 
sure step towards degradation and crime, which involves 
poor woman too. All honor, then, to Poetry — the aspir- 
ing effort to admire, to develop and to praise, the Beau- 
tiful, — the Noble, — the Grand !" 

Friend. — There are noble minds, who would pronounce 
much of that extravagant — too double-refined for any 
application. 

28 



826 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

" And there are ingrained conventional prejudices, 
which Tvarp the views of the highest natures." 

Friend. — You believe, then, that human happiness is 
to be found in some reformed and higher state of civiliza- 
tion ? Have I not heard you envy the fate of these red 
sons of nature — some wild chieftain — with two or three 
slavish wives ! 

"I might envy his freedom from factitious laws — the 
tyranny and fanaticism of society. But as for ' human 
happiness' — ha ! ha ! — suffer me to laugh, I pray you (if 
you will not call that happiness). Happiness would be 
the infraction of an immutable law ; that all sin, is cer- 
tainly not more inevitable, than that all should be un- 
happy ; those who suffer as little as they enjoy, have a 
calmness which may deceive. I prefer at times to disturb 
the philosopher's equilibrium, and to brave his fated re- 
actions for the joy which for the moment sublimes both 
soul and sense. 

" Strange ! that laughter, man's lowest attribute, is 
distinctive ; while the smile, which seems borrowed from 
Heaven, and which can confer rapturous joy, if not hap- 
piness, is shared, I think, in a slight degree by brutes." 

Friend. — Heaven help you of your mood ! I give 
it up. 

" My mood ? I was never in a more sober mood ; I 
feel as cool and practical as any downtrodden woman." 

Friend. — Then your antitheses are rather overpower- 
ing ! 

" Yes, he that follows where truth may lead, will ever 
startle ; I am still at my theme. I attack this semi- 
civilization, which halts when woman is only no longer like 
these brutish squaws ; and, with the help of the faithful 
drudge herself, builds up a conventional system which 



IN THE ARMY. 327 

defies the poAvers of human reason ; nay, with an infernal 
perversity, resists the very light of heaven. But it is a 
law that we ever seek happiness. And it is this free 
desert air alone, that emboldens me in the search, to 
question the dogmas which society holds so precious. 

' But let me quit man's work, again to read 
His Maker's spread around me.' " 

Frierid. — Nay, I go ; luck to your prairie philosophy. 
It is the hour of rest. May your dreams be rational ! 

My old friend has been patient to-night ; but I trembled 
lest he should discover the verses, at which his coming 
surprised me ! And with all his prosaic affectation, he 
had nearly forestalled them by his tribute to the close of 
this day, which indeed might, altogether, have inspired a 
buffalo. And if so afraid of his ridicule, how shall I 
venture to record them ? Well, three verses may be 
overlooked, as it is a first offence. 

The sun set in clouds ; — but this glorious day 
Parts not in gloom; the thick veil is riven — 

And river and sky in lovely array, 

Are radiant now with the light of li^javen. 

Like an aurora, or the flashing trace 
Of an angel's flight, to the utmost north 

The glory shines: unwilling to deface 

The Beautiful, Night hovers o'er the earth. 

Gently the chameleon colors fade, — 

Slowly ascending to the zenith's height: 

Till lingering darkness buries all in shade, 

And Light and Beauty bid the world good night. 



328 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 



CHAPTER X. 

June 12th, '45. — It had been determined, rather than 
cross the river, which deepens as we ascend, without 
losing its quicksands, to take to the hills and turn Scott's 
Bluff: accordingly we this morning marched three miles 
still nearer to that mysterious mountain — and, without 
being disenchanted of its colossal ruins and phantom 
occupants, turned toward the left, and ascended the wild 
sandy hills. I anticipated a dull ride over ground as 
uninteresting as barren: but a new surprise was in store 
for us : having ascended about sixty feet, we saw before 
us a plain, more than a mile wide, but narrowing, wind- 
ing, and walled in : the ascent was slight, and it was ap- 
parently a river-bottom ; in fact, it was marked every- 
where with drift, cedar-logs, &c. — the thought, " Can this 
be the Platte bottom ?" came intruding on us with its ab- 
surdity. Thus we continued, winding round "Gibraltar," 
ascending insensibly this smooth inclined plain, mile after 
mile, thirteen, fourteen miles ! Then, before we were 
aware, or we hardly knew how, we found ourselves riding 
above — looking into — a deep glen, with large trees, cedars, 
shrubbery, rocks, and crystal waters ! And where is its 
outlet ? — nowhere, but high up, too, on the smooth grassy 
plain, on which, in flood times, it had cast its drift ; yes, 
all over its twenty square miles. We had got very high 
up, without observing it ; but to complete even a faint 
idea of the remarkable scenery, I must add that this 
singular flat valley is walled in everywhere by lofty bluffs ; 
their gray sand, and clay, and marly sides, often vertical ; 
their tops crowned by cedar forests. This ravine is very 



IN THE ARMY. 329 

precipitous ; our horses could with much difficulty be led 
down to the water ; wild fruits grew luxuriantly amid its 
rocks and trees. It heads very near the mountain top, at 
a spring of icy coldness, and without exaggeration. 

Thus after winding, as one might have thought, through 
a strange opening around Scott's Bluifs, the surprise that 
we were at the top of a mountain gap came with an almost 
boundless view ; — on our right — to which we must now 
direct our course — far below and twelve miles off, were 
the grassy meadows of Horse Creek : beyond, its blue 
hills — then, far away above many a treeless hill and 
plain, rose to view the famous "Black Hills," and Laramie 
Mountain, their highest peak, towering at eighty miles. 

We turned then to descend another plain, of twelve 
miles, inclined to the southwest ; a puff of air from the 
west came now and then cool and refreshing ; but the 
reflected sunshine was literally scorching ; without sensible 
perspiration, great blisters were burnt over our faces. It 
was paying dear for the avoidance of a little quicksand — 
so thought, doubtless, all the animals. We pitched the 
camp in the pleasant meadows of Horse Creek, near its 
mouth ; it is sixty yards wide, and resembles the Platte, 
but has clearer water. We are enjoying the rarity of 
good fuel, from some dead cedars. 

Seeing to-day an antelope with a young fawn, some 
three hundred yards from the column, I rode to the spot 
to endeavor to secure the little creature for a pet ; they 
are famous for their fearless attachment to their young, 
and their skill in concealing them. This noble animal 
had another enemy afield : an immense dog, greyhound 
and bull, came rushing to attack her ; the coward ex- 
pected her of course to run ; but maternal instinct had 
conquered fear ; she coolly stood her ground, until with 

28* 



330 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

one judicious and vigorous spring, she received liim with 
a butt that sent him rolling over and over ! And he feared 
to repeat the attack, but followed her a little, at a respect- 
ful distance, as she leisurely moved off. Now, hundreds, 
perhaps, had seen the fawn there a minute before, in the 
open prairie ; but she had hid it, so that three of us 
searched it for half an hovir, in vain ! 

These antelopes are second to the buifalo in numbers : 
of the first, we saw none to-day ; they are disappearing 
like the elks, which are said however to have migrated 
permanently northward. Fifteen years ago, they were 
found close to Fort Leavenworth ; now we have come over 
five hundred miles without seeing one. Can we wonder ? 
I have felt on this march, as if still among the settlements ; 
continually amongst emigrants with their herds ; meeting 
one day boatmen, the next, villages of Indians : and this 
migration, which here, where streams or springs are so 
rare, must necessarily follow these great water-courses 
(which seem providentially disposed to lead it on) un- 
fortunately meets on them the great mass of bufialo ; for 
they too must come to the water ; — their day is passing. 

We are now in advance of the whole emigration ; two 
of their men are with us this evening; they speak of the 
great discouragement of the women, who even wish to 
return ; and many men have been at times of the same 
disposition ; they have lost many cattle in this first 
quarter of their journey. They scarcely know where 
they are going; and these men eagerly question our 
guide — who has been in Oregon — on the simplest and 
best known points. 

I have read of small animals, marmots perhaps, and of 
our squirrels, migrating in vast bodies : overcoming with 
patient energy but great loss, every obstacle which they 



IN THE ARMY. 331 

blindly encounter ; moving ever onward, impelled by some 
inscrutable instinct, or destiny. 

This migration severs the ties of home and country ; 
leaves lands of exceeding richness, which may be pur- 
chased after years of free occupancy, for a dollar and a 
quarter the acre, with navigable rivers throughout, and 
pushes on with women and children, to the dangers and 
exposures of an immense journey — they hardly know 
whither — but that it is beyond the advantages and com- 
forts of society. Is it a providential instinct ? And was 
it the same that three hundred years ago impelled its 
many thousands of victims to the dangers and diseases of 
the new American world ? 

It must be so. Should we then admire as praiseworthy 
the energies and the sacrifices of these first laborers in a 
great work ? Or can we, regardless of prospective re- 
sults, deny them magnanimous or patriotic motives ; at- 
tribute all to the wantonness of discontent, — a diseased 
appetite for excitement and change, — to a restless habit 
of vagrancy ? 

I hope I am not uncharitable, if I incline to this last 
opinion. Are we not taught to recognize in the history 
of man, that God shapes evil to good results ? 

There is a comet at the northwest ; and a sudden and 
violent norther threatens the overthrow of our frail habi- 
tations ; and so, to lightning and thunder, we have a 
rattling accompaniment of mallets and tent-pins. 

June 13th. — Twenty-four miles to-day, over a desert ! 
hills and river valley equally a desert ! In this last, we 
have seen many large cotton-woods, seemingly the wrecks 
of a blasting tempest, mere limbless or distorted stems of 
trees ; and others, the bleached and desolate drift of a 
flood. 



332 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

We came over a lofty bluff almost overhanging the 
river, which commanded a view over vast and sternly 
sterile plains, breaking up at last into confused mountain 
spurs, and dim blue peaks beyond ; but to this gloomy 
grandeur the river, far winding amid white sands and 
green islands, and the foot of many another precipitous 
bluff adorned with evergreens, lent an element of soften- 
ing beauty. 

Friend. — What oppresses you ? You seem in mournful 
harmony with these silent wastes ! 

" Behold those spectral ruins of trees, strangely Avhite 
and gleaming in the starlight ! — they are melancholy. 
But no — it is a day that ever, since it first gave me un- 
happy life, leaves its influences upon me." 

Friend. — But better resist such a mood. How do you 
succeed with your diary now ? We are passing remark- 
able scenery ; most wildly picturesque ; and there is 
always some incident. 

" What is written, may always chance to be printed, if 
not read : how charming then to the busy denizens of the 
world, whose very brains have received an artificial mould, 
to read such incident ! Now if I could only introduce 
the word 'dollar,' — good heavens! it was never heard 
here before ! tis enough to disturb the ghosts of the grim 
old warriors, who, I dare say, have fallen here in defence 
of this narrow pass : fighting for what ? at Ambition's 
call ? not, I hope, of intriguing diplomatist — better for 
Love, or mere excitement sake. 

" Whom then shall I address ? — the mock sentimenta- 
list? and begin the day: 'Our slumbers this morning 
were gently and pleasantly dissolved by the cheerful 
martins, which sang a sweet reveille with the first blush 
of Aurora, at our uncurtained couches.' Or the statist? 



IN THE ARMY. 333 

'Not a sign of buffalo to-day; it were melancholy and 
easy to calculate how soon the Indians, deprived of this 
natural resource, and ignorant of agriculture' — but I 
should soon get too deep." 

Fi'iend. — But this soil is devilish shallow. 

" Few will follow me pleasantly or patiently through 
these solitudes, though sometimes 'pleasant places.' I 
care not at all, — but that I feel I may fail to awaken the 
sympathy of any, while, like an artist retouching with 
kindled affection his painted thought, I linger to answer 
the appeal of Wasted Beauty to so rare appreciation." 

Friend. — This profoundly silent desert — like a world 
without life — awes and stills the senses : but the soul is 
excited to speculations on the origin, the history — if it 
have one — and the destiny of these boundless Avastes. 

" Or surrounds itself with the airy creations of fan- 
tasy ; — or, mournfully wanders back among the dim 
traces of joys and sorrows gone. I address not, then, the 
shallow or hurried worldling ; but the friendly one, who 
in the calm intervals from worldly cares, grants me the 
aid of a quiet and thoughtful, — and if it may be, — a 
poetic mood ! 

'•''Ay de 31i ! Our life is a sad struggle ; — our material 
nature with its base cravings, — its cares for animal com- 
forts, and all the ills of the flesh, preys upon and tethers 
the soul, which yearns for the Beautiful, the Noble, the 
Exalted ; — essays to soar in that sphere, whose types are 
the bright stars of heaven ! Or, clings to that electric 
chain of Love which binds humanity — and in the olden 
time drew down angels !" 

Friend. — A false and self-consuming fire ! that some- 
times burns to ashes the hearts and hopes of proud men, 



334 SCENES AN1> ADVENTURES 

and leaves but wrecks, mournfully floating upon the dull 
currents of life. 

" And welcome, then, the rapids and the final plunge ! 
Yes : the struggle is ever, and leads us sorrowing to the 
dark portals which shut out the life beyond. There may 
this holy fire from heaven find more happy sympathy. 
Here, amid ages of pain, it grants us but moments of 
felicity. 

'" Methinks, amid those bright stars, studding the blue 
ether of this moonless summer night, 1 see a seraphic 
face, that smiles with more heavenly light to rekindle the 
wasted torches of Life and Hope ! 

" Fond traitor ! constant friend — blind guide — beautiful 
Hope ! that leadest us wandering ever, — heartless, but 
living still. 

"Yes ! Time, the inexorable, — Time, the physician and 
the conqueror, — Time, the hopeful, rolls on, dragging us 
at his chariot wheels, wounded, suffering, unpitied, — but 
living still! 

" Ah me ! We are not only chained to the rock, but 
galled by all the thousand links, — the petty cares of life ! 
Therefore, I love best this desert wandering, where we 
are free of all tyrannies ; and our wants are simple and 
few. Nature, our beautiful mother, enthrones us on her 
bosom, — and to elevate our thoughts and aims, displays 
all her wondrous and harmonious ways and works; or, 
with sublime simplicity, points upward to the stars ! 

" There is nothing petty here. When we hunger, we go 
forth to the spirit-stirring chase ; when we are weary, its 
furred trophies give us welcome rest ; and our rude beds 
have a starry canopy, whose beauteous mysteries fix our 
wandering thoughts, until blessed sleep draw the curtain 
of oblivion." 



IN THE ARMY. 



CHAPTER XL 



June loth. — Near Fort Laramie. — Ten miles over 
desolate hill and plain brought us yesterday to the Fort, 
on the west side, and a mile above, the mouth of the 
pretty little river of the same name ; the water is clear 
and rapid : the Platte, — here, about one hundred yards 
wide, — is not much larger, and more resembles it, than 
itself as found below. Fort Platte, belonging to a rival 
company, stands near the confluence. 

I came on in advance, and spent an hour at Fort Lara- 
mie ; it is about two hundred feet square, Avith high walls 
of adobes, made of the clay and sand soil, just as it is 
found; the dwellings line the wall, — which is a part of 
them, — and have flat adobe roofs, and wooden galleries. 
The Fort swarmed with women and children, whose lan- 
guage — like their complexions — is various and mixed, — 
Indian, French, English, and Spanish ; they live nearly 
exclusively on dried bufl"alo meat, for which the hunters 
go at least fifty miles ; but they have domestic cattle. 

Here, barbarism and a traditional or half civilization 
meet on neutral ground ; but as a struggle, it is certain 
that the former has the best of it ; although it has the 
disadvantage of being represented chiefly by females — 
both softening and impressible : but their credentials are 
ill-looks, dirty, and revoltingly coarse habits, &c, &c. ; 
while the male representatives of civilization have the 
orthodox, although questionable aids of alcohol and gun- 
powder, avarice, lying, and lust. 

The struggle is at close quarters ; civilization, furnish- 
ing house and clothing ; barbarism, children and fleas. 



336 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

The Colonel had sent a staff-officer ahead, to examine 
the grounds for a camp : but arrived before he had com- 
pleted his labor. The rival companies, anxious for the 
reflected importance of the military vicinity, rivalled each 
other in praise and misrepresentation of the merits of 
their respective rivers — as to grazing. The result was, 
that the Fort Platte scale at first preponderated ; and up 
the Platte we marched, — two miles, without discovering 
the grass ; then it struck the beam, and we passed over 
an immense and very steep bluff into the Laramie scale, 
— I mean river-bottom ; where we did find good grass, 
and camped three miles above the Fort : but the extra 
two miles over the lofty dividing-ridge, was terrible work 
for wagon mules ; and it bruised, I fear, fatally, a pet 
antelope fawn, which I had in a wagon : — it lies now in a 
neighboring tent, uttering from time to time cries and 
moans, which are distressingly similar to those of a suffer- 
ing infant ; said its soldier-nurse, with real pathos, " It is 
thinking of its mother." I purchased another at the 
Fort : and a s;oat foster-mother. 

We meet the Sioux to-morrow in council ; about nine 
hundred warriors are expected to be present. 

The weather is very cold : fires and great-coats are 
comfortable. The dwellers here — who, however, lie in 
emulation, give discouraging prospects of grass toward 
the South Pass : this staple of the country is so scarce, 
that our three hundred horses, moving daily, can hardly 
subsist. The trade of this post is principally for buffalo 
robes ; nine thousand were lately sent off by the American 
Fur Company : and how many by the other company I 
do not know. They get about two thousand pounds of 
beaver skins a year. 

June 16th. — Colonel Kearney with an escort, and at- 



IN THE ARMY. 337 

tended by the officers, rode this morning to the plain 
between the forts, and there met the Sioux in council. 
There were about twelve hundred, of both sexes : three 
flags on lofty staffs, first caught the eye ; two were our 
national flags, — the third was said to be of Indian design ; 
it was crossed diagonally by two bands, said to represent 
the winds ; beneath were clasped hands ; above, disposed 
in a regular curve, were nine stars ; a little beyond, the 
people of Fort Platte had prepared chairs and benches, 
backed by a curtain of elk lodge-skins ; and the ground 
was carpeted with buffalo robes ; the Indians, all seated, 
faced us in a great semicircle, behind which was another, 
of women and children, who, in fact, also completed the 
circle in our rear. 

The Colonel made a short plain speech, which hinged 
on the Oregon road, which the Government determined 
should be kept open. 

Bull's Tail, the principal chief (the buffalo, be it re- 
membered, — for this confounded name needs some apology, 
— carries aloft his tufted tail in combat, like a black 
flag !) Bull's Tail, then a gentlemanly and mild-looking 
man, made a short and sensible reply, which promised 
well that the Colonel's advice would be obeyed ; and turn- 
ing to his warriors, addressed to them some words to 
increase its impression. Presents, then, were placed in 
the centre : and the chiefs selected seven Indian " sol- 
diers," who, receiving equal portions of every article, dis- 
tributed them at their own discretion: their awards beiuir 
final. I looked back over the screen at the distribution 
to the women, of strouding, beads, &c., w'hich, of course, 
was very interesting : the mirrors were given, however, 
to the young men ! Now, this unsophisticated trait will 
probably be interpreted as a compliment to the women at 

2y 



338 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

the expense of the men ; or, the reverse : it was, I think, 
a mere exponent of the rehitions of the sexes ; their 
women work and drudge ; their men are idle, and have 
more use for mirrors in self-adornment : just the reverse 
of the picture of a certain stage of civilization. 

In the midst of these proceedings, a squaw commenced 
a chant, in which she was soon joined by many women 
and some men, with a very fine musical effect ; it was ex- 
pressive of satisfaction and thanks. The Sioux, — they 
call themselves Dahcotahs, — are large, fine-looking men ; 
wear their hair long, and are cleanly and showy in dress ; 
adopting our fashions when they can ; a great many wear 
our fur cap. 

Several shots were then fired from a howitzer, to their 
great satisfaction : and the Colonel told them that at 
night he would send up stars to the heavens, which should 
" tell the Great Spirit that they had listened to his words ;" 
meaning that some rockets would be fired. We then re- 
turned to camp. 

It is still very cold ; some snow is said to have fallen : 
the latitude is 42° 15'; altitude above the Gulf, 4470 
feet : but they say that the winters are mild, with very 
little snow. Fort Pierre, a trading post on the Missouri, 
three hundred miles distant, is the nearest point of navi- 
gation. 

The emigrants are overtaking us : but to-morrow we 
march, leaving one company to await our return. My 
poor little antelope is out of pain — it is dead : and it is 
rather singular, the other, at the Fort, was killed to-day 
by the kick of a horse. 

June 17th. — We set out this morning in a cold drizzle ; 
about ten miles from camp, at the Warm Spring, I left the 
regiment to make a detour of several miles to the Platte, 



IN THE ARMY. 339 

to examine a point which had been spoken of as suitable 
for a military station ; the river there emerges from the 
most advanced spurs of the Black Hills ; a little below 
muddy and tame, it here gushes a sparkling mountain 
stream from a pass which it completely occupies, between 
precipices of bright red sandstone two hundred feet high. 
Standing a little lower, over the water boiling through a 
still narrower passage which it has worn through a ledge 
of rock, I could see through the gap many loftier hills or 
mountains of red sandstone, all, far and near, crowned, 
shaded, or dotted with dark cedars ; beautiful it was, — 
and even grand, with its wild confusion. 

The squadrons marched thirty-six miles to Horseshoe 
Creek ; so far, because although they repeatedly touched 
the river, water and grass together could not be found 
nearer. Wearily I followed them all day over this broken 
and desolate country ; its gray sterility unrelieved by a 
single and mournful growth of gray artemisias. There 
were now and then striking views of mountain ridges, 
covered with cedars, which sometimes dotted them as 
regularly as hills of corn, — and walled with red rock 
precipices ; and through which it was hard to believe the 
river passed, so utterly invisible at a little distance was 
any opening ; but the picturesque it seemed had not 
tempted any unfortunate wild animal into these barren 
wastes. 

Right pleasant then at last it was, to see down a slight- 
ly inclined and singularly smooth plain, two miles wide, 
the camp, and horses grazing, in a horseshoe bend of a 
creek with green trees. 

June 18th. — We had a thunder-shower last evening : 
and the stream, which we found with a very little clear 
cold Avater, soon ran boldly, nearly a blood red. After 



340 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

some half dozen miles winding over high prairie hills, 
thej admitted us to the river meadows ; but soon con- 
fined us to a narrow pass, which we threaded pleasantly 
enough, through cotton-woods, willows, and rose bushes ; 
and these now generally mark its locality ; and then, 
rather than again ascend these precipitous bluffs and re- 
main among them for several days, and perhaps without 
grass, we forded the river at a swift rocky place ; and 
were near losing our beeves, — to say nothing of the drivers. 

At four o'clock we discovered a narrow grassy bottom, 
where we gladly encamped under some fine trees ; and 
have plenty of dry drift for fuel. It seems a settled mat- 
ter now that we should have two hours of great heat at 
midday, with the other twenty-two cold and boisterous. 
We saw to-day a great quantity of cotton-wood sticks, 
which had been cut about three feet long, completely 
peeled of bark ; no doubt by Indian horses : they might 
be called Nebraska corn-cobs — and are particularly scarce 
too. 

We saw two deer and some hares in the course of our 
day's wanderings ; the result perhaps of some eccentricity, 
or misfortune. This last explains, at least, the presence of 
a famished squaw and two children, whom we surprised 
hiding from us near our camp ground. Some animals 
have an instinctive fear of strangers, but not of their 
kind, — this human fear of ^Ac/r kind — this natural mental 
impulse, — mark inferiority of mind to instinct? Or, that 
mind makes us more fearfully savage than brutes ? 

But to their story, — which without a word of language 
in common, we gathered from the language of signs ; 
(perhaps other animals do the same). The children, about 
eight years old, are the daughter and nephew of the squaw ; 
she is an Arapaho, but married among the Arickaras ; 



IN THE ARMY. 341 

her husband with four lodges of that nation were attacked 
near the Missouri River by the Dahcotahs ; the men were 
all slain, and their families made prisoners, or slaves ; but 
she, from friendship to her native tribe, was liberated 
eighteen days ago ; and was provided with a small pack 
of provisions, a dog to carry it, and a fire-steel ; (now 
that is a scale of outfit that would please the most stingy 
quartermaster, or travelling husband extant !) Her pro- 
visions being exhausted, she fell upon a military expedi- 
ent, of eating the "transportation" — generally oxen and 
mules with us, but the dog is quite as good ; (I once knew 
a sergeant to starve three days before he could make up 
his mind to kill a favorite mule which he had ridden a 
thousand miles : a kind of prejudice or instinct — often 
the same thing — which I admired). The dog, then, was 
killed for food ; and some of it is still on hand ; and 
since we have fed them to an amount that would be dan- 
gerous to a white, they have returned to the dog, which 
is certainly well singed, but rare to a fault — usually the 
case with the game course. If they survive such high 
living, they will be sent to-morrow to Laramie, in the 
charge of a dragoon. 

June 20th. — We marched yesterday but fifteen miles : 
being greatly impeded by the stout artemisias, and little 
hillocks of rubbish washed by overflows or flooding rains 
about their roots and stems. We passed a wonderful 
place, apparently a great basin, near a mile through, 
where an adventitious mass of white clay and sand, gra- 
nitic sandstone, trap-rock and friable conglomerates, — 
black, yellow, and gray, — had been the sport of rain and 
flood ; there were all shapes, mathematical and fantasti- 
cal ; among ruined towers and pyramids, we passed over 
hard smooth plains, level and inclined, of a dazzling 

2y* 



342 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

whiteness ; which, with the infernal heat and dust, had 
quite a dizzy and bewildering efiect; there was no token, 
not a reminiscence there, of animal or vegetable life. If 
any but a dragoon or an Indian in great straits has ever 
been there, or shall ever return, — and it shall have the 
slightest use of a name, — that name I give and patent, 
" The Devil's Adobe Yard." 

Our progress was suddenly arrested by the unfordable 
river, and a precipitous bluif, which was pronounced ut- 
terly impracticable for wagons. It was a nearly cubic 
mass of iron ore one hundred feet high ; but as it was 
necessary, we got over ; and enjoyed too, a fine view of 
the Southern Mountains and their majestic Laramie Peak. 
The country began there to show a tinge of green, which 
attracted some straggling buffaloes and antelopes : and 
there we first saw a bird unknown to us, but called here, 
we find, " sage-hens ;" they are fine game, and probably 
a species of grouse ; but they have a much longer tail, 
carried diiferently, and are so large, that we at first mis- 
took them for turkeys. 

A poor fellow shot himself in the arm that afternoon, 
and suffered amputation. 

This morning we left our surgeon and a small party to 
return slowly to the Fort, in care of the wounded dra- 
goon. 

We then crossed back to the south side of the river, 
and have had a long march ; enjoying an unusual variety 
of scenery and incident. We were forced into the hills 
again, which were smooth, and found ourselves near the 
forest clad mountains at the south : we came down to a 
fine stream, with groves (so beautiful for their rarity) ; 
and here some buffalo came dashing down a long slope 
beyond, and to the pleasure of this unlooked-for change 



IN THE ARMY. 343 

of scenery, was added the excitement of lively action, — 
for many dashed oif to the chase ; the game took various 
directions, and ran long and with much incident ; and in 
this vast wild amphitheatre we watched them with intense 
interest. 

There are times thus, on the dullest march, — and in 
the dullest life elsewhere, — when, as by accident, a gene- 
ral excitement comes as the sudden whirlwind when the 
sun is reigning with the calmest tyranny ; delightfully 
refreshing, like a shower to drooping flowers, they give 
our souls new spirit and power to rise from the moral 
drought of routine and dull material life. 

But our creek had little grass ; and so we ascended to 
high hills again, while over the mountains to the south- 
east rolled dark thunderclouds, which threw a purple, a 
strange and mysterious light, on the wild scenery ; the 
storm seemed to pursue us ; but suddenly, in a bright 
gleam of sunshine, we looked down upon the welcome 
river, and struck at last the welcome road. But then we 
saw another storm, coming from the northwest, and this 
gave us some dashing rain ; but soon all was bright and 
calm again ; and at length we were gladdened with the 
view of Deer Creek, whose little forests made it doubly 
inviting. And on entering them we surprised two deer, 
which were shot as they ran. And fat deer they were, 
poor fellows ! 

It is half-past nine at night. The storms, the labors, 
and the excitements of the day are over ; all have en- 
joyed the food which toil has sweetened ; and many the 
soothing pipe ; the horses graze quietly around at the pick- 
ets; the camp-fires burn irregularly through the woods; 
weather-beaten troopers are grouped about them, silently 
drying their fresh meat on little scaffolds and boughs ; 



314 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

— leafy domes, supported by natural pillars, Avhich art has 
imitated, are illumed here and there by the fitful fire- 
light ; — some sprays of foliage now and then catch and 
throw back bright gleams from the solemn obscurity ; — 
the broad moon has risen and begins to silver some tree 
tops, which are gently stirred by the light airs, that waft 
over the deep azure the fleecy fragments of the shattered 
storm-clouds ; harmonious now is the tree-frog's mono- 
tone, — in all this is the spirit of beautiful repose ; the 
true harmony and economy of Nature, which at night 
renovates her creations by universal sleep. 

Sleep has its fearful dreams, — Night its storms, — man 
his passions : God over all, in all has wonderfully min- 
gled Good and Evil. 



CHAPTER XI I. 

June 20th, '45. — We marched to-day twenty-seven 
miles to the crossing-place of the Platte River. In all 
this distance there was grass but at two spots ; and few 
buffalo were seen. 

I was riding near the head of the column, over the bare 
prairie, when suddenly, within twenty yards, up sprang a 
grizzly bear ! He ran about eighty paces, threw himself 
about, and stood some moments gazing at us with his head 
high raised. "Grizzly bear!" was shouted down the 
column, and gave an impulse to the true hunters, which 
strongly tested the punctilios of discipline : a half dozen 
of us spurred to instant pursuit : away we galloped, 
toward the mountain, at greater than buffalo speed. 



IN THE ARMY. 345 

That bold hunter, Capt. M., the foremost, headed and 
turned the bear — round a slight swell — when some of us 
suddenly met it ; whereupon, a dragoon's horse, in great 
fright, gave its rider a tremendous fall ; his danger added 
new excitement, — several shots were instantly fired, and 
a ball fortunately striking its shoulder, turned off the 
furious beast toward the river ; near it, he took refuge in 
a very small hammock, where Capt. M. very rashly fol- 
lowed. The bear then came at him with expanded jaws 
and a savage roar, which sent the horse about with a 
desperate leap, which made the saddle pommel tear open 
the Captain's vest to his chin ! The bear then dashed 
on, into the river, where, at twenty paces, a load of large 
shot was fired into the back of his head, with no apparent 
effect ; three men followed him there, and might have 
killed him, as he ascended with difficulty the opposite 
bank ; but he escaped into an almost impenetrable thicket 
of plum bushes, where, it being very extensive, we sought 
for him in vain. 

It was a singular thing, that the moment the bear 
sprang up before us, near the same spot a very large and 
perfectly coiled rattlesnake began so loud and threatening 
a rattle as to divide the attention of many with his bear- 
ship. 

A hare shot to-day, although quite poor, weighed seven 
and a half pounds ; the legs were twelve inches long. I 
supped on a " sage-hen," which I shot with my pistol; its 
quality and flavor seemed to partake of both the grouse 
and chicken. 

June 22d. — Independence Rock. — Yesterday we forded 
and left the Platte, to turn confused masses of mountains 
with picturesque red-rock precipices, which there begin 
to wall it in ; it is called the Red Butes. We passed one 



346 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

spring, with a little grass, about half way of our march 
of twenty-seven miles to another. The last half was the 
most desolate and wild region we had seen : high plains 
where there was nothing but clay or sand, and a few 
stunted, dusty artemisias, interspersed with great rock- 
hills of dark volcanic appearance. We had to dispute 
possession with buffalo, of the small well-cropped oasis 
where we encamped ; and with another grizzly bear, 
which we routed out at dusk, after it had greatly alarmed 
the horses. 

About five o'clock this morning we Avere in the saddle, 
anxious — with the famed Sweet Water for our goal — to 
finish the remaining twenty-five miles of desert. We 
passed several springs, with a little grass, bog, and some 
plum bushes ; as we neared the river, the country grew 
more wildly barren ; there was a great plain of white 
sand, and here and there, of glittering Epsom Salts ! 
Amid the mirage and white dust, and the dizzy glow of 
reflected light and heat, which nearly turned the brain, 
I have still in my mind's eye a kind of vision of the in- 
domitable hunter, Capt. M., scudding over far black 
slopes, which seemed themselves in wavy motion, fiercely 
pursuing flying bufi'alo : it was a rivalry of all the 
German extravagance of their favorite legend of the wild 
huntsman. The facts seem simple, but there was an un- 
natural strangeness, a suffocating, alarming heat in the 
dazzling plains, and the black hills, that gave a dreamy 
confusion and doubt to realities. Did then the strange 
mirage cheat the senses with apparitions of a desperate 
hunter, on that wonderful gray horse, pursuing black 
monsters, far, far, and indistinctly into the glowing haze? 

After all, we knew it was Ben. M. or the devil ! But 
it had always been said that he would follow a bufialo to 



IN THE ARMY. 347 

the abode — left to that imagination wliich here seems 
realized. 

But onward moved our silent procession ; each followed 
the whitened horse before him ; nothing more could then 
be seen ; and expiring fancy and distressing fact were 
shadowing forth together the prospect of numerous eques- 
trian statues of salt — and none of us looked back — which 
might figure in our unhappy history ; when, presto, a puiF 
of good-natured air blew pain, and dust, and doubt away! 
We were on a verdant sod, laved by a crystal stream. 
Close at hand was Independence Rock — a little mountain 
of granite. 

Ah ! not long, bright Sweet Water ! did we refrain thy 
tempting embrace : thou wert a Lethe to the desert be- 
hind ; all illusion faded from the delightful realities of 
thy bath. 

The rarity and dryness of this air is proved in an 
ancient buffalo skull, with the ears an inch thick, hide 
dried and preserved. 

It is near midnight. Silence reigns in the desert ; but 
now and then come the cries of wolves from the moun- 
tains. They give an almost supernatural tone to these 
solemn solitudes. The repose wdiich twenty hours of ex- 
citement and toil demand, is banished. Hark ! how they 
howl ! Be grandly dreary, and ye will be attuned to the 
heart ! Yes, never better to a sentimental girl the 
gentlest breathings of an ^olian harp. Ah ! how very 
doleful is that plaint ! Never, never, the doleful ! Give 
me the placid calm in which the soul may revel with fairy 
creations, adorned by all the flowers of thought — or proud 
action, the storm of wild and passionate will. The gilded 
and painted memory, or fierce oblivion. 



348 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Come, sleep ! thou luxury to the happiest ; thou 
matchless blessing to those that may not be comforted. 
Come deathlike ; profound as Adam's first. Fated pro- 
genitor ! Then from near thy soft heart, sprang its re- 
sistless enemy, evermore armed against the peace of thy 
unhappy sons ! Nay, the very angels surrendered Heaven, 
and trembling, yielded to her arms. 

June 25th. — Independence Rock, which we left yester- 
day morning, is about one hundred and twenty feet high, 
and a thousand long ; it is the first appearance of a strange 
ridge of granite masses, near a hundred miles long, which 
stand in the midst of a great plain, in a direction per- 
pendicular to that of the Rocky Mountains. The Sweet 
Water for nearly half its course, from the South Pass to 
the Platte, runs near its southern base. 

Some of its dome like elevations are about 1500 feet 
high ; apparently no tree or shrub, — no beast or bird re- 
lieves its stern and lifeless gray ; its monumental solemn- 
ity. For how many ages, since its upheaval by the 
primitive fires, has it stood — changeless in summer heats 
and wintry storms — in untrodden solitude; in awful 
silence ! 

But the "Rock" is isolated; and I rode ahead several 
miles over a plain, yesterday morning, hoping to surprise 
a chamois or "bighorn," at the "Devil's Gate," the actual 
extremity of the ridge. 

So named, perhaps, by some earnest believer in Satanic 
grandeur, it is in truth the gateway chosen (for its 
romantic beauty, I should say) by that fair and gentle 
offspring of mountain dell, the better-named Sweet Water; 
for, we practical mortals led our martial train with peace- 
ful ease by a much gentler portal to its valley — a smooth 
gap of prairie hill. Whether thus formed in the cosniical 



IN THE ARMY. 349 

throes of nature — river and sundered rock together — or, 
whether the waters dammed and falling, wore awaj the 
softer trap-rock vein through the granite, less resisting 
than the hill of stubborn argil and gravel — so it is, the 
stream here finds an outlet through a profound and nar- 
row chasm in vertical granite. 

There are vegetable and mineral attractions and re- 
pulsions. The elm-twig distorts itself, turning short back 
to avoid the contact of the locust : the parasite selects the 
noblest oak, which trails its tender foliage high over the 
many self-dependent neighbors, as the tenderest woman 
oft chooses the most sturdy and rugged mate ; and certain 
it is, this merry little river, whose sparkling waters often 
demurely purl over golden sands, this very coquette of 
all the mountain offspring, if it ever approaches the fir- 
clad mountains of soft, inviting blue, turns suddenly back ; 
leaves, too, the grassy bed of the valley, and cleaves to 
the stern rocks : nay, as if for love, or strong excitement 
sake, now and then it enters their very heart, which seems 
to open to embrace it ; and thus, careless of the dry and 
melancholy plain, goes sporting through their stony bed 
in fierce or joyous triumph : and then for change again, 
it comes quietly forth, more deep and staid and with an 
innocent smile to the bosom of the tame and neglected 
valley. But I have left the " Gate" to describe tlie walls 
and interior. 

My first delight being calmed, I secured my horse and 
slung my rifle — that I might better clamber with both 
hands, and alone with Nature ascended instinctively to a 
happily selected niche of this her favorite temple. Alone ! 
0, who among men would choose more than one witness 
to such an interview ! 

I was a hundred feet up, and well within the crooked 
MO 



350 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

chasm : all breathless, I cast my eyes first upward to the 
grand walls, still three hundred feet above, and approach- 
ing in dim perspective ; for crowning evergreens formed 
nearly an arch ; as if oifering a link of beauty to the stern 
masses, frowning gloomily above the abyss which had 
sundered them forever. 

Below, the waters roared as if to gather courage to 
dash amongst the shapeless rocks ; boiling angrily, they 
increased by their misty spray the dizzy awe of the down- 
ward view. With a slight pause or two, they reflect a 
gleam of light, which relieves but heightens the majestic 
solemnity of effect ; and then seem to hurry forth from 
the dread labyrinth, to meet gladly again the light of 
day. 

I have stood on Marshall's Pillar, overhanging New 
River nine hundred feet ; I have studied Harper's Ferry 
from every point ; but Devil's Gate, with its solemn calm 
profound, enrapts the mind with a spell which no glare of 
day comes to break ; and has so striking a unity in its 
grandeur, that it must receive the meed of sublimity. 

From the granite range, five or six miles to a parallel 
mountain ridge at the south, is called the "Valley," of 
the Sweet Water ; it is, in fact, chiefly one slope of barren 
hill, whose sands and gravel are only redeemed from na- 
kedness by melancholy artemisias and absinthia ; to the 
north of the granite, the country is flat and more valley- 
like ; I should say then, that the granite was erupted in 
the centre of a valley in the very course of the Sweet 
Water. 

This afternoon we stopped in the opening of a romantic 
pass, where the river was narrowly confined by little 
mountains of rock, to leave a small party with the weak- 
est horses to await our return. Two hunters, who had 



IN THE ARMY. 351 

been sent after buifalo, joined us there with trophies, but 
with the uneasy haste of a retreat : they had found a 
grizzly bear with three cubs, and had managed to kill one 
and had taken a second alive ; but then the furious dam 
had given them a chase, which they dared not stop to en- 
counter, on ground broken by large sage bushes : so they 
had gladly brought off, as a compromise, the two cubs ; 
— the live one, exhausted by the chase and the excessive 
heat, seemed dead, and they laid it in the edge of the 
water ; a crowd of men were gathered closely around, when 
suddenly the little beast assumed vigorous life with so 
fierce a growl, as to disperse his spectators like a bomb- 
shell. 

We had left the road of loose sand, and now attempted 
more directly to pass the defile : above us, six or eight 
hundred feet, great shapeless rocks, piled loosely, or sus- 
pended on inequalities of the parent mass, threatened to 
fall, as many had done before ; these, scattered about in 
the sparkling rapids, and among the rosebushes of the 
narrow bank, nearly barred our passage ; but we foi'tu- 
nately accomplished it. Soon after we emerged on a little 
green level — still between the mountain precipices — we 
surprised a flock of chamois passing from one to the 
other : before we were well recovered from our own sur- 
prise they had accomplished their object ; but immediately 
several hunters were scaling the granite in pursuit ; and 
a lucky one reached gunshot distance, — when his carbine 
awoke from silence echoes which had never found a voice. 
Wounded or not, the goats, which on reaching their native 
rocks had regained an easy confidence, seemed now winged 
by terror, and skimming the almost vertical slopes and 
fearful precipices of smooth naked granite, with a daring 
velocity which was wonderful, admirable, incredible ! 1 



3.32 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

cannot express the thrilling and delightful surprise it 
gave us. 

We ascended then a long, sandj slope, still between 
granite ; the reflection was blinding — the heat scorching; 
there was no sensible perspiration, owing to the rapidity 
of evaporation ; but clouds brought shadows to our relief, 
and never too was toil sooner forgotten. At the top we 
paused insensibly, and all gathered there, first to behold 
and gaze excitedly at the glittering summits of the Rocky 
Mountains. Their sharp pyramids of snow seemed to 
penetrate, — or all sun-lit — were sublimely relieved by the 
dark clouds. We descended to find a level camp ground 
on the Sw^eet Water ; and the telescope now reveals faintly 
many more pinnacles penetrating dim, airy space, beyond 
the eye's power to catch the bright reflections of their 
snow mantles. Like phantoms they seem, mysteriously 
shadowing forth an unknown land, — a new world. 

Near the camp, rising from the greensward, stands a 
solitary rock of granite : it is two hundred feet high. I 
ascended and sat long musing there — not alone, for I 
found company in a single shrub which strangely flour- 
ished near the very top. 

I am little curious in little things, and seldom in any 
manner "play the devil" (to which they often lead so 
Avonderfully) ; but in this stilted position, I Avas a daylight 
Asmodeus : the doings of all the little Avorld below were 
open to a glance ; and owing to the strangely ascending 
quality of sound, which I had observed before, I could 
hear all their uttered thoughts ; at four hundred yards 
remarks came distinctly, to which the person addressed 
at twenty paces, answered " What ?" I lingered until the 
torches of some ex tempore fishermen, with spears or gigs, 
warned me that my descent was becoming perilous. 



IN THE ARMY. 353 



CHAPTER XII I. 



June 27tli. 

" Reposing from the noontide sultriness, 
Couched among fallen columns" — 

" How pleasant thus to repose at high noon, of the 
long hot day, on a bearskin in the deep shadow of our 
willow ; and in full view of the eternal snows, which send 
this crystal tide with its delightful verdure !" 

Friend. — This green valley gave us all the pleasure of 
an unlooked-for discovery — the charm of a surprise. 

" Pleasure generally flies a studied plan. I like too to 
take misfortune at short notice." 

Friend. — As the poor buffalo yesterday did theirs ; so, 
their last mouthful of grass was sweet ! 

" Did you not regret to dispossess them ! They seemed 
to leave with a real reluctance ; but so great a herd must 
soon have finished our forage." 

Friend. — I cannot remember when we rested before ! 
but we had all the trouble of a march, to come three miles ! 
Well, it gave us a good appetite for breakfast. 

" Not very necessary after the frosty night. But our 
quiet discussion of trout and buffalo steak, was a good in- 
troduction to repose and a pipe. 

" How beautifully those light clouds float along from the 
east, wafted by the gentle airs that just give music to the 
leaves over head. Ye far wanderers ! are ye messengers 
from that busy world ? If so, pass on ; and those white 
summits — those representatives of Nature's simplicity, 
will receive you quite unmoved ! 

30^ 



354 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

" What is the world to us ? Not much more than we to 
them ! 

' Let the wide arch of the ranged emph-e fall! 
Here is my space.' " 

Friend. — Well, the poet for once is right ; so I feel now, 
at any rate. 

" Is it possible. Friend, and he in love ! — for, listen, — 
he adds, — 

' Now for the love of Love, and her soft hours, 
Let's not confound the time with conference harsh : 
There's not a minute of our lives should stretch 
Without some pleasure now.' " 

" I rather think there is nothing worth living for beside 
Love, Music, and War." 

Friend. — And a pipe ; for what content, you heathen, 
does it not now give you ! And the beauty of this spark- 
ling but calm morning is something to live for, and grate- 
fuily too. 

" Beauty ! I worship beauty ! I enjoy it in the tiny 
flower — it charms me in the bright spring landscape, 
where Nature has kindly played the artist, or in the sun- 
set clouds which raethinks good angels paint in heaven's 
own colors ; it enchants me. in smiling eyes and lips 
wreathing their divine intelligence into a halq of love !" 

Friend. — Bravo ! 

" Thus love at last, as love at first — all absorbing — feed- 
ing upon music, — sporting with war ; — love, the link of 
earth to heaven, — love is all in all !" 

[Friend. — He must have been reading Saint John !) 

" The beauty, then, which now soothes me momentarily, 
is but a sweet minister to the soul — to which absence is 
the doomed evil, but space immaterial — and leads it with 
a melancholy joy, to the imaginative communion of love." 



IN THE ARMY. 355 

Friend. — You are a monomaniac, by Jove ! incapable 
of argument, or even conversation. 

" I detest argument ! it is the favorite resort of fools, 
to convince — themselves. 

" I am only in a mood ; buoyant and bitter ; tameless as 
the Arab coursing his native desert ; free as yonder soaring 
eagle ! it's this wild mountain air ! Let us have a fling 
at the world, — the poor dollar-dealing sinners, cooped 
up in their great dens — " 

Friend. — But you began by a fling at me — 

" Only a love tap, Friend ; my way of argument. Let 
us with the desert's freedom joyously flout convention and 
opinion — upstart usurpers ! — let us make mocking sport 
of the prosaic solemnity of ignorant prejudice ; — let us 
shoot popguns, at least, against the solid bulwarks where 
folly and selfishness sit enthroned !" 

Friend. — Then fire away — though hang me if I know 
what you would be at. 

" You are so practical ! Well, I mean that fanatics, 
hypocrites, and malicious gossips generally rule society : 
sometimes under the cloak of religion, sometimes as en- 
vious, presumptuous censors, they intimidate the true and 
innocent, who resist not, nor despise, — but slavishly cower 
before their unblushing falsehood : thus, all pure simpli- 
city of manners, all the most private and sacred relations 
of life are blurred by their foul intrusion. I mean, too, 
that life is burdened with a thousand artificial cares and 
anxieties ; the growth of envy, jealousy, and folly, the 
prolific brood of another arch-tyrant, fashion." 

Frieyid. — Well ! what care we in this honest wilder- 
ness ! Care for nothing you cannot help, is the sum of 
my philosophy. 

" But who lives who may not be wounded through an- 



356 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

other ! — Then so be it ! let us treat the whole world as it 
has done us, and — forget it ! I dare say, that beyond 
some family ties, there is not upon the wide earth a heart 
in sympathy with our good or ill ; whose even beat would 
be as much disturbed, were this wild sod to cover us for- 
ever, as at the most ephemeral of the trifling cares which 
make up their petty lives." 

Friend. — At last you have struck a chord that answers 
as to the touch of truth ! And as for love, 'tis but the 
poet's wildest fancy, — or passion's thin disguise : it soon 
tires ; or, lasts so long as intereBts bind. 

" Too bad ! too bad ! — I say it is the divinity within us ! 
warmed indeed by heaven-bestowed beauty, and humanity's 
other noblest attributes, — but clinging to immortality with 
earnest hope. 

" There is a pure soul love, — a deathless friendship, 
which all life's trials and worldly baseness cannot soil or 
sap. 

"If fAa^were truth, better never to look into her Medusa 
face ; better to cherish illusion : blind credulity would be 
heroism ! ay, — and policy, — like that of the great Cortez, 
who burnt the proofs of a conspiracy, rather than foster 
damning doubt." 

JEvening. — In this day of rest, each has followed his 
bent ; some, headed by Capt M. of course, have wandered 
to the stony and hot hills, seeking the excitement of hunt- 
ing ; — others fish ; (still worse, but de gustibus ;) others 
sleep away the day. As for myself, with my pipe and 
pen, and my plum bush — my occupation appears. No- 
thing disturbs me, but that a luckless brood of magpies 
inhabit m?/ plum bush. Heavens ! how they chatter ! 
HoAV querulously and fiercely they chatter ! No girl- 
school could equal it. I :>1ki11 assuredly skin, and stuff, at 



I N 'I' II I'l A II I\I V. I'tol 

Icn.Ht on(? of" tlictn ; or hHI, lis tongue — \vlii(;li iiii;^lil, iiiako 
ilui iunit,(;r worsd. 

Tins H.'iinc |)liiiii Iiiisli in :i, siii;:;iil;ir ;ill';tif: ils sIciiiH !iro 
three Ici'l; Lliroii<^li, — so clo.sely vvoiiikI lo^(!lIi('r, tliiit liltlo 
Ih WM,iit,iii<^ to )i, Holid iiiuhh: hut, iho liiilfju'c (h-.'ul, — iirid 
on their (h'y liiiihs hiiir^s (h(! wool ol" hiill'Mlo, iiihheil oil" 
yeHt,enl:iy. 

The hii^^ht, Sweet VViit(!r, ^iviii;^' in llie irioniin^j; strong 
IndiciJitionH ofn, dcjvioiiH imd (riij)rieiouH course, Avo jester- 
(l;i,y i'('lii('l;iiitly r<!signed her eheerriij eoiii|);iny, ;iii<l he- 
took ourselves to h(!i' eonipiuiions, tluj hills ; in tiu; hope, 
ho\v(!Ver — vvhieh wits not (lis:tp[)oint(!(l — th:i,t we should 
lind soinelliiiiii; n(iw :iii<l ple;isini^ in theii' more; seiious 
coirijtiiny. 

A('t(^r ii, (leli;i;htrid drink of tlu; w;iter of :i little ;j;reeii 
l)og, whieh li:is niiiHses of ie(! ne!i,i- its .surfiie*' (:uid without 
iieeoinilin;^ for thi.s str;iii;^e I'jiet, I will nier(!ly mention 
th:it hot its it is ])_y (hiy, wiitiir ("ro/,(! ]n,st niglit in my tent,), 
we gra-(hudly ;iseeii(le(l Avh;i,t seemed a v;i,st phiin ; — tlie 
granite uiaHse.s hegiin t,o dis:i])p(!:ir ; — to tin- left, the hliu; 
mountains hecame [)rii,irie hills; the snow-ehid Wind 
Itivcn- INmiI'S w((ro st(!Ji,dily hefoic^ us. We oxcliiinged 
h)0S(! Siind for a gr:i,vel soil ; lor some soil tliere is, with 
Ui sennt yellow grass; — hut nu)Hses are more common: tho 
iiniversji.l Avild siige is thinner and smaller; — JKjatheock 
ami hares liav(( nearly dis:i-ppe:ii(!d — thei'(! is, instead, a 
hrownish rahhit, — and curlews too, whose wild cries arc 
well atone with tin; sccnuiry, Ahout mid d;i.y W(; wisre 
usocnding :i vcvy di-y hard ro;i(l — as it setsuKid — when we 
m(!l, a, stream o(" water ! — making a, deliherate, hut V(;ry 
sure progress. It wJis not much, jjcrhaps, "for a n(!vv 
country," hut I thought it rcmarkahlo. Then we found 



O08 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

buflalo, and had a good old-fashioned and successful chase. 
We were on very high ground, and the scenery >Yas 
noble ; far away toward the left, to the south of the Pass 
— that giant gateway to the western continent — the moun- 
tains rising again in forbidding grandeur ; — great plains 
in front, which might lead to the new ocean, but in part 
relieved by towering mountains, glittering with snow down 
nearly to our level ; — while more to the right, a majestic 
table bluft' seemed there to bound the earth. 

But suddenly, with a delightful surprise, we looked 
down into the smiling face and bosom of our little co- 
quette. Sweet Water, all renewed in grace, and blooming 
in a glittering dress of green : absence gave appreciation 
and zest to the meeting. She was now in a sweet secluded 
valley, three miles long, on which high stony hills, every- 
where walling it in, frowned in vain. She only smiled 
the more ! 

And its attractions had gathered there a vast herd of 
buflalo, which surpi-iscd us as much — so unusual have such 
become. But here comes my Friend again : — well, rest 
is evidently not a time for dull narrative. 

Friend. — Most industrious of scribblers, I give you 
good evening ! How charming, for a change, is our old 
friend. Siesta ! I hope the beautiful nymphs of this 
happy valley — if they suffice you — hovered over your 
dreams. But, in truth, I think you dream all day (when 
no wild bull is afoot). Hast thou, most favored mortal, 
tempted an Egeria from her sacred fountain and grove to 
meet thee, where others groan in very spirit, in the hot 
and dusty stony barrens ! 

"You are quite overpowering! Pour dreams surely 
were spirituous. But a truce to day-dreams ; light as 



IN THE ARMY. 359 

tlicy are, the whole world grantcth them not a foundation 
spot!" 

Friend. — {Jle has turned the tables.) Well, the Cap- 
tain has got back ; and has had an interesting excursion. 
lie went a dozen miles over — or down — to the Wind 
River (or a branch), which he says is a thousand feet 
lower than this ; and that the mountains, to which it gives 
its name, appear from thence far more lofty and grand. 

" I am sorry I did, not go ! Is it not water of the 
Yellowstone ?" 

Friend. — Yes ; but first of the Big Horn, which takes 
its name from your "chamois" — they are all goats — that 
is a fork of the Yellowstone. But is not this a sweet 
valley ! I have bathed in the beautiful little river, wdiere 
it is five feet deep ; the sands seemed of gold, — and on 
the bank I found ripe strawberries. 

" They have a story of Capt. B., whose travels this 
Avay were published, that he spent a day or two hero, col- 
lecting the yellow mica sand, in the belief that it tvas 
gold. But while you have been indulging in the beau- 
tiful, which I hope stirred somewhat the poetical element, 
— which exists perhaps in all, and is dormant in few ele- 
vated minds, — I have found in the rugged hillside food 
for thought at least ; — the impression of a sea-shell in 
limestone ; — this, at the top, or rather at the base of the 
Bock Mountains (for this South Pass, sixty miles wide, 
has not the characteristics of a mountain, — is merely the 
highest steppe of the continent), is a fruitful subject for 
palaeontological research, if such be not without the pale 
of your practical system." 

Friend. — Bah ! your modern geognosy is a humbug ! 
or, too deep, at least, for a wandering dragoon. Now, 
would you go about determining the age of the formation 



360 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

from your knowledge of the shell ? or give it physiological 
gradation from your profound knowledge of superposition 
of strata ? 

" I might do either ; for knowledge throws a reflected 
light. If I know this to be a mollusc of an existing 
species, could I not infer that it was a comparatively late 
eruption that threw up this mountain and the incumbent 
limestone ?" 

Friend. — I am decidedly non-committal ; but it is 
enough to ruffle one, to have such a long word thrust at 
him, amid all the charm of a complete laisser aller in a 
glorious wilderness, a thousand miles from all the schools 
of pedantic, groping, and guessing philosophy. 

" But, good heavens ! do not condemn a word for its 
length. Palaeontology is an almost poetical triumph, 
which throws an attractive grace over the sterility of 
geognostic investigation. As we eagerly decipher the 
inscriptions and symbols on the human tombs, which 
throw beams of startling light over the obscurity of fabu- 
lous antiquity ; — so, when we discover the traces or re- 
mains of the extinct life of the old world, their natural 
tombs — the fossil rocks — are monuments by which Time 
thus records their relative ages." 

Friend. — Allow me then a few years of devotion to 
the study of the anal^^sis of primitive zoology and botany, 
and I will then, if possible, give you my speculations 
with all the boldness of jjoetical science upon the forma- 
tion and age of the continent — all by the light of your 
chronological, fossiliferous, infernal shell ! 

"I understand you: — Ne sutor ultra crepidam.'" 

Friend. — You do, indeed ; for it is my decided opinion 
that you have a profound — smattering of the subject. 



IN THE ARMY. 801 

" Candid ! Would you prefer discussing ' sacred foun- 
tains and groves ?' " 

Friend. — That, ingrate, was only to flatter a little, for 
once, your humor, your " mood," — which, in all its tenses, 
I should call the doubtful. 

" Well, Diogenes, let us meet on middle ground ; did 
you notice yesterday that grand level-topped bluff? others 
perhaps scarcely looked at it, — to me it was sublime ! I 
cannot tell why, — but even with the snow-peaks in view, 
it seemed the summit of the earth." 

Friend. — Perhaps it was the strong impression of mas- 
siveness, which its great extent added to its really grand 
elevation ! 

" There may be something in that. To tell the truth, 
it reminded me of a feature of Niagara ; that scene of 
hackneyed sublimity, of which it is supposed that nothing 
new can be said or written. But it was the rapids, and 
not the falls, — whose smooth descent the eye measures by 
the banks, that impressed me most, and with an effect 
that I certainly have not heard or read of. Standing on 
the Canadian side, much below the falls, in full view of 
the rapids, in all the foaming majesty of their long rocky 
descent, I could see nothing beyond — nothing between 
them and the sky, whose glittering light clouds seemed 
blended with their bright foam and spray. Then came 
with the strong semblance, the sublime idea that the 
mighty flood was rolling forth continually from the high 
heavens !" 



31 



362 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XIV. 

June 30th, 1845, — Camp in Oregon. — In three days 
we have come but thirty-seven miles through these lofty, 
barren solitudes, with no very remarkable features differ- 
ing from those already described. Too barren to attract 
many buffalo, we find in the pretty little green valleys of 
the Sweet Water, where we occasionally touch it, fresh 
buffalo-grass, on which our horses are sensibly recruiting. 
The stream rises daily, after noon, about six inches — from 
melting snow — and falls as much at night, when we gene- 
rally have a black frost. Every day showers of rain or 
snow fall on the mountains, the former far down the great 
slopes. 

Willow bushes still abound in the little bends of the 
Sweet Water; but we have not seen above half a dozen 
trees since we left the Platte. There are a few antelopes, 
which are very tame ; and heathcocks : several have been 
killed weighing five pounds. 

We make it 281 miles from Fort Laramie, and 850 
from Fort Leavenworth : the country from Laramie here 
I would describe in general terms, as a sandy and very 
hilly desert, difficult for loaded wagons, and with scant 
grazing for the teams. 

At noon to-day we left the Sweet Water, and came 
over the South Pass ; the ascent is gentle and quite 
smooth, to a slight gap in the prairie ; to the west the 
descent is rather more rapid, two or three miles to a 
spring branch, which runs into Green River, a fork of 
the Colorado. We are in camp on the edge of a narrow 
trembling bog, which scarcely bears a horse ; but he must 
venture for food. 



IN THE ARMY. 363 

There is a lofty bluff rising from the camp, whose level 
top extends to the actual pass, and slightly commands it : 
from it, the view west is extensive, and over a decidedly 
champaign country ; it resembles the figuration of drifted 
snow : more to the north, the white-topped mountains can 
be seen for at least a hundred miles : they make near us 
a turn eastward ; and just there is the spring of the 
Sweet Watei", which thus rises at the west of some of the 
highest peaks : to one standing on the spot, its undecided 
course seems much inclined toward the Pacific. 

A kildeer and sparrow are the only living creatures 
which we have seen in this mountain edge of Oregon. 

To-morrow we march to return ; thus drinking, two 
days in succession, both of the Atlantic and Pacific 
waters. We have now the 5000 emigrants to meet ; and 
worse, their 5000 cattle, which, we fear, have left little 
for our horses. 

Night — on the lofty blufi' overlooking the South Pass. 

How solemn is the night ! Silence and solitude — eldest 
born of time — reign unquestioned. 

Calmly sleeps the moonlight on the gray earth, which 
no green thing proclaims is not a wreck, — a monument of 
life extinct. The winds sleep too ; their wings are 
motionless, — there is no whisper in the air : shadow has 
taken to her embrace the unhappy wanderers that sleep 
below. Those mountain pyramids of gleaming snow 
point mutely to the stars, which, radiant in solemn motion, 
alone speak of Life and Hope ! 

Oh, Life! thou unsought mystery, that springs from 
nothingness, to grasp at Eternity. 

Eternity ! Awful shadow ! incomprehensible Dread ! 



yOJ- SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

On whose black threshold the spirit shrinks shuddering, 
— till Ilojie comes, — like the star in the east. 

A continent is spread beneath me : a new world in ocean 
midst : the great ocean, at whose ever-heaving surge — 
typing infinity — man trembled and forbore many thousand 
years : but at the appointed hour, Fate led him by the 
hand ; he came — and truly found all new : the perennial 
life and death of changeless vegetation ; and the new red 
race. For three hundred years he has labored to subdue 
the untamed vigor of the primeval curse. 

And now, he who of old would scale Heaven with a 
tower, climbs here Avith his burden of discontent, vainly 
seeking rest in timeworn deserts. Yes ! now he would 
scale these venerable heights, which storm and rain have 
furrowed — fructifying other lands : the continent's hoary 
head, the mark for battling thunders, since Lightning 
brooded over the great deep ! 

How oft, Moon ! has yon snow-shining spire marked 
its shadows on this lofty dial ? How long since erupted 
from ocean, they were cast upon the face of the waters ? 
And how long since the plains arose, — in whose warm and 
gaseous slime grew monster forests, — now whelmed and 
burnt to coal. 

Speak ! thou pale and silent witness ; tell of Earth's 
throes, — when a continent had birth : tell when the Storm- 
power chose these solemn mountain-towers, piercing the 
sky-mists, for his throne ? and his sublime laboratory of 
river-feeding rain ; his fire-created and blasted, but icy 
throne ! 

Tell when Nature's poor red child came, and with 
dawning mental light, obscured by superstition, first 
trembled at the feet of these granite monuments of the 
new creation ! 



IN THE ARMY. 8C5 

Galm, and beautiful, and serene ! thou floatest on un- 
answering, with thy bright companions, — the starry hosts 
which sang together before the face of God, ere Earth- 
time began ; but twin-born with earth, chained thou art 
to her, — though — like hope — thou soarest with the stars ! 
And, sweet companion, goest thou ? Must Earth's chill 
horizon hide thy heavenly face ? must the icy barriers of 
destiny now break — mayhap forever — the strong spell 
which bound us ? Must my solitude, whence I worshipped 
thee afar, be so darkened ? 

Nay, inconstant ! how smilingly thou wilt shed thy 
light on happier ones ! 

" And lo ! She kisses the icy mountain ; and now, the 
farewell ray, comes calm — careless — cold. * * 

And strong Darkness reigns ! How awful her presence, 
here on the Storm-throne ! 

Child of clay ! descend to the humble valley, and 
seek with thy kind sleep and forgetfulness. 



CHAPTER XV. 

July 1st. — Not reluctantly we turned, this morning, 
our backs upon Oregon, land of promise and fable. 
"Homeward bound!" "Lives there a wretch" — never 
so much a vagabond, — whose tongue was taught to lisp 
that honest, noble Saxon word — Home — whose heart it 
stirs not with an emotion which distance increases, and 
time cannot chill. 

But to retrace one's steps is dull : dull even to the wil- 
derness wanderer, to whom the face of Nature is all in all ; 

31* 



366 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

who seeks, by change and novelty, to charm away the 
sense of mere routine, fatigue, and privation. 

The very trustworthy Mr. Fitz Patrick, our guide, has 
been much in Oregon ; and he asserts that the country 
we have passed through, and consider uninhabitable, is less 
forbidding than it : some narrow river-grounds excepted. 
It seems the rule, that in very barren lands, the exceptions 
— very striking of course — should really make great 
amends.: how far they lend imagination to general de- 
scriptions, depends upon veracity, judgment, and inte- 
rest. The truth will out some day. It is certainly very 
difificult to return from Oregon : and the tales that are 
told may be like the blarney of the curtailed fox. It is 
said they remove thence to California ; which would prove 
not much ; for movers they will be to the end of the 
chapter. 

We have collected numerous pets ; beasts and birds ; 
horned frogs, or lizards ; plants and minerals ; heath- 
cocks — one weighing seven pounds — and hares have been 
skinned and stuffed : unfortunately, we have no arsenical 
soap ; and since we left our surgeon and his stores, — not 
even corrosive sublimate : there is but one shot-gun — an 
unlucky one ! — and the shot is expended ; and we have 
had little opportunity : the expedition is military, and 
most rapid ; and though less so for a few days past, un- 
certainty has prevented the gratification of the great 
desire of some of us to ascend a snow peak. 

We came but thirteen miles ; and in approaching our 
pleasant camp-ground on the river, surprised some buffalo, 
and slew four or five ; poor beasts ! they are now between 
two fires. 

This upper Sweet Water needs not, I think, the grim 
hills for a foil, to be pronounced charming : with what 



IN THE ARMY. 807 

gentle music does its swift waters — now o'er glittering 
sands, now amid rocks — break the dreary silence around ! 
In what graceful curves does it sweep round, here a 
garden spot of currants and gooseberries, strawberries 
and clover ; there, a little densely shaded thicket of 
willows. Heaven knows what Naiads may nestle there, 
in rarely disturbed enjoyment of beauty ; but other airy 
— at least not imaginary — occupants are there, who re- 
joice in blood ! Mosquitos of marvellous size ! But 
fortunate we are in blanket-enduring mornings and eve- 
nings, which silence their war-notes and chill their wings. 

July 2d. — We have marched twenty-two miles to-day, 
over the hills of sand, and gravel, and rock, and sleep 
once more in that sweet valley which had so extraordinary 
attraction, that we made two camps in its three miles. A 
west wind, fresh from the snows, was cool ; but the dust 
of many horses' feet, which it bore with it, was a serious 
annoyance. I caught, at a little stream in the hills where 
we made a short stop, two half-grown heath-cocks : this 
was too good fortune to be thrown away ; so we set to 
work immediately, and constructed of willow-twigs a very 
respectable cage : I shall try hard to get them home. 

The Sweet Water enters this valley through a deep, 
narrow pass of several miles ; the scenery very fine : but 
the "groves of cotton-wood and beech," of which we read, 
are but a sprinkling of birches and cotton-woods ; the 
river is there inaccessible ; but we vary from our old 
track, and now and then come upon something new, and 
pretty, too ; and some wild horses this morning were the 
first we have seen. 

Our valley is still brighter than before ; the mountain 
showers have visited it : what could resist its attractions ! 

July od. — Almost with reluctance, we turned our backs 



3G8 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

this morning upon the smiling meadoAvs, the plums and 
willows which surrounded the camp ; and although our 
faces were homeward, we were rather dolefully absorbed, 
as usual, with present littleness — I mean with the twenty- 
five miles of dreary, hot hills before us — when suddenly 
we met our friends, the emigrants — the foremost company ; 
they were well and thriving, as the foremost generally 
are — but had " slept out" — of water ; having travelled 
thirteen hours without reaching it. 

I saw a poor woman weeping. The sight of our return ! 
the home ! the friends behind ! the wilderness before ! 

We have received a favorable account of our party left 
with the poorest horses and beef-cattle, which are but 
eight miles below us this evening. We have been solely 
dependent upon game since we left them. 

July 4th, 1845. — The parole is Independence — counter- 
sign. Liberty. Glorious words, and a glorious day ! It 
was glorious in the " Continental Congress" to declare 
the colonies independent, and sign their names to it: 
more glorious than some of the after-conduct of the con- 
stituent States. There was a great deal of baseness, of 
intrigue, of money-seeking ; a great deal of faltering in 
the revolutionary war : and the more glorious was it to 
those who withstood all ; and particularly in the South, 
where they were fewer, and had to resist the Tories and 
the slaves, added to British power. But to Connecticut, 
of all the States, is due the fame of preserving from the 
beginning, her chartered democracy ; the others sur- 
rendered theirs, and became subject to the will of the 
base Stuarts. 

Our independence achieved was due — first to Washing- 
ton — be his name and memory freshly embalmeil, ever on 
this glorious day ! Secondly, to the infatuation and im- 



IN THE ARMY. 3G9 

becility of British generals ; and thirdly, to French aid. 
Let those who ignorantlj think that we would have suc- 
ceeded without the assistance of the hereditary fool and 
despot — our friend Louis — turn to Sparks' Washington 
for convincing evidence to the contrary, as well as the 
Great Man's decided opinion. 

Independence, Liberty, Equality, — brave words ! Most 
nations now enjoy the first, but not in a commercial or 
social sense : Paraguay, barbarous and insignificant, under 
the late Dictator did, and Japan now, alone possesses it 
without this qualification — necessary to civilization. Other 
nations, — as England, — possess the first and second ; but 
her liberty trenched upon, not by the monarch, but by 
the aristocracy, who make and administer the laws. 
France enjoys the first and third : and this blessing of 
equality in as high a degree, perhaps, as our boasted 
Republic ; where a love for the distinction of titles is re- 
markable among all nations. And the Turks, too, have 
equality ; — they are all equally slaves. The Russians 
are totally deprived of liberty and equality. (Why do 
not the fanatics of England make an abolition crusade 
against the white slavery there existing ? Their interests 
do not prompt it ; — we must address her fear.) 

In China alone the government is ministered — theoreti- 
cally at least — by an aristocracy of learning and virtue. 
Portugal and Spain are remarkable for their imperfect 
enjoyment of independence, while liberty and equality are 
both wanting. 

But the Oregonians, and these emigrants thither, — pure 
democrats all, and independent as woodsawyers — are pre- 
eminent for equality and love of liberty. Last night, 
they asked the Colonel to fire a "big gun" this morning. 
He readily assented; they were delighted, and their 



870 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

spokesman exclaimed, " Do, and I will treat you all !" 
The Colonel replied, he drank nothing but Sweet Water 
(not even eau sucre). 

Accordingly it was fired ! and awoke echoes from the 
granite mountains that never had startled before the cha- 
mois themselves ; and the shell exploding amid the far-off 
answers of rock to rock, produced a glorious confusion of 
sounds — more rare, if not more windy than all the ora- 
tions of the day combined, and the inebriate, but hearty 
shouts of excited multitudes. 

Then we marched, and as usual on this day found it 
exceedingly hot : the sunshine everywhere reflected by 
rock and white sand, might have barbecued an ox, — or at 
least killed a horse, — if exposed long enough. 

We found our party where we left them ; their horses 
a little, and the beeves 7iot at all improved : but two buf- 
falo had been killed, and two big-horns : one of the 
former, " the largest that ever was seen," received twenty- 
one shots ; they have cured its scalp for me ; no cushion 
is deeper or denser ; it would make a fine winter saddle- 
cover, were it not too cumbrous. We came eight more 
miles by meridian ; when, finding grass, the heat drove us 
to encamp. 

Speaking of governments, Oregon is now, perhaps, the 
only pure democracy existing in Christendom (I have 
heard nothing of late of San Marino), and is practically 
independent : — may she so continue ! The fear is, they 
cannot do so without us (as well as we without them). 
Let us only proclaim in their behalf — " Hands off, gentle- 
men !" in our biggest capitals of diplomacy ; and, if needs 
be, fire the big guns too ; — but in heaven's name let us 
fight on Christian ground ; Oregon would be worse than 
Florida, and our contest with those Swamp Parthians, the 



IN THE ARMY. 371 

Seminoles. The only — quasi — colony we laave is Liberia; 
and that is nearer than Oregon — in time. The Oregon 
railroad is, and will remain for half a century, a notable 
humbug : that over the Isthmus of Panama, or the Nica- 
ragua canal, is the great hope, or work of our generation. 

I have now visited the regal province of Canada ; — the 
domain of democratic Oregon (three feet deep in the 
boggy "bowels of the land"); also the problematical 
regions of Texas (to whose revolutionary war my military 
"countenance" was willingly lent). I have visited, too, 
Mexico (horrid compound despotism of priest and soldier). 
I hope Texas will revisit her " province" of New Mexico, 
and give us an opening ; for I long to have a hand in re- 
lieving the Mexican millions of the galling yoke of her 
grinding oppressors ; a crusade worthy the banners of 
Liberty ! (But the poor, ignorant devils, could they 
understand and keep freedom ? Liberty, like manhood, 
requires education to be worthily worn.) 

I have also visited the courts of very many "sovereign 
nations" — of Indians (where human nature is nearly as 
sophisticated as at other courts). Thus I am quite an 
American traveller, and might one day give the public 
the cream of my adventures ; but as a titled and hirsute 
foreigner is the exclusive pet of us republicans, — so 
America is a subject that can in no way excite, interest, 
or tickle us, but through foreign malevolence and igno- 
rance, or the delightful praise of cockney condescension. 
If the book be European, and larded with sonorous titles, 
— treat of antiquities (venerable in guide books), — of the 
stereotyped romance of ruins, converted by a prurient 
imagination from dens of robbers to seats of chivalry, and 
abodes of beauty, — then, all success to it ! 

How stale, flat, and unprofitable in comparison, the 



372 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

primitive grandeur of our native land ; — the sternest 
frowns and sweetest smiles of virgin Nature ; — our beau- 
tiful prairies, — and sublime as ocean, on which the sun 
rises and sets in solitary glory ; — our own glaciers and 
avalanches, cataracts and volcanoes — unknown, unnamed ! 
And our independent red men [gentlemen., that never 
w'ork), our Indian chieftains, who rise to power and in- 
fluence solely by mind and daring ; — democrats, but not 
the less distinguished by knightly bravery in numberless 
combats. They have genealogies too, heyond all record 
(older than William the Conqueror ; — how often tvas Eng- 
land conquered ?). Truly our never-conquered Indians 
offer noble subjects ; it is a rare mine of romance, not 
wholly unworked. And the proud, dignified, and eloquent 
Indian — even surpassing the old knights in the romantic 
vigils and penal vows of religion — seldom falls so far 
short of romance as his white brother, the tame subject of 
civilization. But, alas ! he does lack a vital element — 
devotion to women ! But nature seems at fault, in so 
generally refusing them beauty ; and gives him a poor 
excuse, — which white millions have not, — for the same 
beastly conduct. 

All this shakes not our mental dependence — our foreign- 
fashion loving public taste. And then the infernal trash — 
much of it from the stews of Paris and London — utterly 
undersells us, to the almost total suppression of native 
labor ; and to the robbery too of the best foreign authors, 
whose works would command a copyright. 

So much for the Fourth of July, — and a dry one ! 



IN THE ARMY. 373 



CHAPTER XV I. 

July 5th. — We have paid to-day for our short ride 
yesterday ; twenty-eight miles mostly over sand, ground 
to impalpable powder by the innumerable emigrants, 
whom we are meeting. 

About four miles from the camp, we took a lingering, 
farewell look — at eighty miles — at the glittering snow- 
peaks. 

I more particularly examined, this afternoon, the re- 
markable geology of the vicinity of Devil's Gate. The 
granite masses erupted for forty miles above, from the 
very bed of the river — but throwing it always to the 
south of the principal chain — here turn to approach the 
forest-covered ridge which bounds the valley on that side ; 
but in thus leaving the river, they had stopped its course, 
but for the chasm, or "Gate," in some parts not more 
than forty feet wide. The road leads over a very narrow 
gap, a hundred feet high, commanded by the lofty 
granite ; — on one side a chaotic pile of boulders, ten and 
twenty feet in dimensions, through which is a great vertical 
vein of trap-rock. 

Thus liberated, the river enters a vast sunburnt plain ; 
and, as if to take a last farewell of the romantic ridge, 
runs five or six miles to the foot of the solitary Indepen- 
dence Rock, thrown out like a grim sentinel upon the 
desert's boundary ; then, as if warned of the salt and 
lava desolation beyond, turns again, and hastens to join 
the Platte, to aid in the evident struggle before it, with 
all the rocky powers of chaos and volcano. 

Having thus, as from impulse, surrendered name and 
32 



374 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

identity, and the excited contest over, they emerge from 
the secret and sublime mountain passes, in dreary unity, 
upon the boundless flatness of barren plains, — though 
some fleeting enjoyment of flowery savannas succeeds — 
before both are lost in Missouri's dark and turbid flood. 

Farewell to thee, then, sweet daughter of Mountain ! 
Thou smile upon our mother's melancholy face ! Go, — 
with thy bright and blithe innocence, — like many another 
victim ; — go purling merrily when you may, ignorantly 
happy, to the dark course of thy destiny. Thus do the 
Fates spin our warped life-threads, — thus do we weave its 
chequered or sombre web ! 

The baggage to-morrow takes the road which we came, 
through the desert ; and we are to explore our way to the 
most accessible point of the Platte, and thence follow it 
through the wild, romantic Buttes. We hope to find 
grass, — almost hopeless on the wagon route. 

My poor heath-cocks are dead ! They had begun to 
eat a little, and every care w^as taken with them ; but 
they were untameable ; — they seemed to pine for their 
native freedom, and to die broken-hearted. 

I have got an ancient "big-horn," or chamois skull, 
with the horns, weighing eighteen pounds ; but they are 
said to be quite small. 

The emigrants are unexpectedly thriving. I saw, how- 
ever, one poor woman, who had within a few days lost her 
husband, now driving a wagon. But it was somehow 
understood, that she was particularly desirous of an im- 
mediate successor to said husband and driver deceased ; — 
or, for a conveyance back with us ; — perhaps both boons 
would have been accepted. 

I am told, that by the time our rear passes their com- 
panies, toward what they will ever consider their homes, 



IN THE ARMY. 875 

the women generally are seen to weep. Heaven help 
them ! 

July 6th. — We took a course over a desert plain, and 
soon after found ourselves ascending a gentle slope ; and 
60 we continued for twelve or thirteen miles, — reaching 
insensibly a great elevation ; and then — unexpectedly as 
suddenly, arrived at a precipice. 

Then all press forward to the brink, absorbed or utter- 
ing exclamations of astonishment and delight. The nerves 
are thrilled with the sublimity of depth and space ; — 
sight, without a barrier, seems to lead us over a just- dis- 
covered world. Recovered a little from our giddy sur- 
prise, the first object beyond the void of a thousand feet, 
which compels attention, is a rose-red wall of mountain 
height, to which a profusion of cedars gives a softening 
shade of beauty : then we begin to observe a circular 
amphitheatre, twelve miles over, where Nature in pleasant 
mood, seems to have scattered lavishly as carelessly, 
objects of beauty and grandeur ; mountain and rock are 
colored as a flower-bed ; — evergreens have been showered 
over them. Silvery gleams attract our sight — there is 
water — it is the river ! In the midst of its secret, fierce 
course, a sweet glen has tempted it to a gentle pause on 
its soft bosom. 

It is then a river valley ! Truly, close to our right, 
through an unsuspected chasm of wondrous depth, the 
happy Platte, having been somewhere secretly united to 
Sweet Water, has come to meet us, as witnesses to its 
triumph, or sharers in the excitement of a pleasure tour. 

Lowly, but bright and joyous in its life of motion and 
cumulative power, it advances, courting first all sweet 
and quiet recesses — yet daring all opposition to its wilful 
course. How we watch it now ! Yonder, it sweeps in 



376 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

curves of beauty ; — but suddenly lost, we gaze conjectur- 
ing where it may next appear ; unexpectedly, it has paid 
a smiling visit to a grim mound, that stands modestly far 
aside; satisfied, it comes forth to new discoveries; — a 
determined barrier seems opposed ; but carelessly yet, it 
sports in some little meadows which can scarce be seen. 
Then it advances more seriously to a green hill, which 
seems bent in homage. But no ! Nothing less than the 
loftiest mountain of proud rock, must give it passage ! and 
through a narrow — a sublime chasm, it fiercely rushes 
forth to new labyrinths beyond. That is the Hot Spring 
Gap ; was earthquake then called to its aid ? 

I was charmed, — and lingered ; — what time I know not. 
The guide had sought some possible winding or zigzag 
descent. The Colonel was at my side. I had heard him 
exclaim, " Poor Mac ought to have seen this !" When 
he called me to action, we dismounted and led our horses 
to follow the guide. I cannot tell how we got down ; — 
there was a rocky chasm of a dry stream, or waterfall, — 
a ledge of rock now gave us a giddy path — the roots and 
branches of cedars now lent us support ; — there were, mo- 
mentarily, dangers, surprises — new beauties. 

I was thinking why Nature had hid away since creation, 
as if in a secret storehouse, such treasure for sight and 
soul. We were discoverers : it is certain that white men 
had not been here. But then, her favored, untamed 
children ! Ages back, their leading spirits had drunk in 
here the inspiration of noble thoughts, for eloquent ex- 
pression or high resolve ! 

When fairly down, — near the river bank, — I looked 
back and saw the moving picture of men in long file, 
leading horses down the bright-colored face of the pre- 
cipice. Beautiful ! Now dapple grays are passing in 



IN THE ARMY. 377 

front of blood-red wall, and blacks are relieved by 'white, 
or light gray rock ; — parts of the long procession would 
disappear, — or, be dimly seen amid shrubbery ; or would 
suddenly emerge from the concealment of some nook of 
clustered evergreens. 

We had struck the river too high up ; — and had soon 
to ascend again ; and it was at forty-five degrees that we 
scrambled up one ridge of loose round stones, from the 
size for street-paving, to two feet in diameter ; — then for 
miles along the face of precipice, by the narrow paths of 
buifalo. Soon after, forced to cross the river, nearly 
swimming, we came suddenly to a high steep mountain, 
sundered to the base, forming a chasm where the torrent 
forced to break desperately on shapeless rocks, gives ever 
to the sublime walls the echoes of its torment. 

Unwillingly we turn away, to seek a circuitous outlet, 
guided by buffalo paths over a lower mountain of confused 
and many-shaped peaks. At the highest part two mon- 
strous buffaloes suddenly met us in the way : the gaunt 
keepers of the pass paused in astonishment, and seemed 
to stare the question, "What did we there ?" or, "Where 
are we safe ?" thought they — if buffaloes think. But they 
were spared ! Our pleased excitement as explorers brooked 
no interruption, or needed no addition. There we trod 
our path on beautiful feathery crystals of gypsum in red 
clay ; and white and gray varieties resembling lava. Safe- 
ly over, we again had to cross the river : it was very deep 
and muddy ; for the sublimity of our passage through 
these fastnesses, where white man has rarely, if ever trod, 
was heightened by black clouds, thunder, and rain. 

Then we were in another circular opening, or valley, 
fifteen miles wide, quite surrounded by mountains — the 
chosen abode of desolation and grim silence ! 

32* 



878 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

At the eleventh hour of our toils, — generally leading 
the horses, — we stopped for the night in a little open 
space by the river, where we rescued some dry grass from 
a gang of hungry buffalo ; one of which maintained his 
ground until slain. We have had to-day, five alternations 
of cloudy coolness and rain, and oppressive heat. 

I was joined, after our frugal supper of dried meat, at 
the watch-fire of the bivouac, by my Friend, who came, 
I suppose, to while a dull hour ; but to give him his due, 
he brought up some coffee, and we made in tin cups re- 
freshing and strong sleep-dispelling draughts. 

" Heaven knows," he said, " why guards should watch 
in this valley of desolation, with world-forbidding battle- 
ments ; we might sleep a month, safe from aught save 
grizzly bears." 

We discussed our day's adventures ; — disappointed of 
grass for the poor horses ; but delighted with unexpected 
beauty and magnificence of scenery. We had evidently 
struck the Platte too high ; much above Avhere our only 
known preceding party had passed. 

A busy time, he thought, for journalists ; and wondered 
how I mustered industry or energy to write after great 
fatigues. 

It was a pleasure, I told him : — often it occupied me 
while the diflBcult preparations of supper went on ; or 
passed the dull hours of a night-watch ; and of bright 
mornings I sometimes wrote, when others slept perhaps, 
the hour or two when horses were tended, breakfast got, 
and baggage packed. But new and beautiful scenery, 
though never tiring to the eye, I began to think dull to 
describe, or duller to be read — the pen lacking so much, 
even the feeble pencil's power. 

Friend. — Ah ! it is veri/ true ! Tell me to-night some 



IN THE ARMY. 379 

story of men — not matter : a military one, I suppose, it 
must be. 

" Men ! — they are my aversion. It is an unpleasant 
animal: — the female, however — " 

Friend. — Ah ! no more of that, Hal, an thou lovest 
me. 

" I love Nature best ; — nature in her virgin wildness. 
But I have been reminded somehow, of a very pleasant 
day's service in the Southwest ; of scenes, or scenery, in 
which men took a part ; and being in action, were a suit- 
able and picturesque addition." 

Friend. — It may do then ; let us abstract ourselves 
from this sad gloom, and cheat the leaden hours. 

" It was three years ago ; — an episode, or more accu- 
rately, a sequel to the Florida War. We were in camp 
near Fort Gibson ; an express came in the night with 
information that three hundred Seminoles, lately landed 
south of the Arkansas, had become rebellious, and crossed 
to the forbidden side. At reveille, while a thunderstorm 
was bursting, the squadrons received orders to march at 
eight o'clock. Eight miles down, we ascended with 
diiEculty the Menard Mountain, where it abuts on the 
Arkansas ; then, after a few miles of fine open forest, we 
found ourselves passing through large prairies fringed 
and beautifully interlocked with oak groves. There was 
little sign of man ; the rich Cherokee had been careless ; 
in twenty-two miles we saw but one dwelling, and an un- 
finished house, — which promised, however, far to excel in 
comfort those of the western whites. We encamped at 
dusk on the river bank, under the leafy domes of a ma- 
jestic forest. 

" Early next morning, the leader of the Seminoles, 
who were near, was induced to appear in camp. The 



380 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

colonel, by interpreter, asked him what he had to saj for 
himself. The proud chief wore a sash, which we believed 
had belonged to some officer slain in the unfortunate 
Florida War ; and in it was thrust a great dirk, which 
he freely fingered ; he had not been asked to sit. He 
answered, ' In Florida we were promised to be sent to 
Fort Gibson. This promise is broken ; we are now for- 
bidden. We shall go. Our friends Alligator and Coa- 
cooche, and their bands are on this side. We shall meet 
them here in council. In Florida we were treated with 
more friendship and consideration. I am accustomed to 
sit, when I have business to transact.' 

"The colonel replied, 'If you received this promise, it 
was unauthorized. You shall not go ! This day you shall 
recross the Arkansas, and set out for your lands on the 
Canadian.' 

" The chief, at last, had met his more than match. He 
endeavored then to temporize ; he was astonished, but 
with skill felt his ground, to be assured if boldness and 
cunning could fail him now. And so it seemed ; — he 
promised to obey, and was dismissed ; — the colonel taking 
measures to be informed of any unnecessary delay. 

" Soon after noon, the trumpet called, ' To horse !' 
The squadrons were speedily arrayed ; the Indians had 
refused or failed to obey. 

" The colonel said to us, in his cool way, ' If we come 
to blows, put your sabres well in ; but on no account 
strike woman or child ;' then we marched. My squadron 
led. Two miles down on the skirt of the Indian camp, a 
lad, who was mounted, attempted to pass us ; the colonel 
himself seized his rein, and gave him in charge to two 
dragoons, but such was his indomitable obstinacy and 
boldness, that he persisted in eflorts to elude this arrest, 



IN THE ARMY. 381 

Utterly regardless of the sabres flashing about his head ! 
Until, seeing that but few men remained in the camp, the 
colonel, rather than that the boy should be sacrificed, 
commanded his release. We found on the Illinois River, 
at its mouth, the chief, and about a dozen men and their 
families. Nothing but their weakness saved them. Their 
tents were torn down, — they were seized and forced to an 
Arkansas ferry, close by. 

"It soon appeared that the Indians had taken posses- 
sion of the flat, and had been crossing the Illinois River. 
An armed party was sent over in a canoe, loaded the 
boat with their baggage, returned, and took the chief and 
party over the Arkansas. 

" Very near sundown it was ascertained that the band 
were nearly all beyond the Illinois River — a hundred 
yards wide, and booming full ; and I received rather a 
singular order to cross it with my squadron ; — with dis- 
cretional powers beyond. 

" If I had stopped to reason on it, I should soon have 
pronounced the order impracticable ; for the full banks of 
the river were vertical ; there was only a small canoe ; 
the sun was setting. However, it was to be done ; I had 
faith, and — perhaps the colonel too ; and so — in half an 
hour I was over with above half my horses and three- 
fourths of my men." 

Friend. — Come now, no romance ; you must tell how 
that was done. 

" A mounted Cherokee made his appearance at that 
moment ; how it happened, I did not stop to inquire ; I 
learned from him that a mile or two above — through the 
dark forest — there was a trail and a ford, — in low water. 
I sent a division of the squadron under an energetic ofiicer 
who took him as guide — to cross there, if he could risk 



382 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

it. I immediately sent a party to the Arkansas to find 
and bring round the flat-boat ; and meanwhile, crossed 
over a dozen men in the canoe : just as it was upset on 
its third trip — losing some arms, and very nearly some 
lives — the flat was brought ; I rode into it, followed by 
as many horses as could find room ; filled up the inter- 
stices with dismounted men ; pushed over, and landed 
safely. 

" I found that a Cherokee lived in the vicinity, and he 
told me that the woods were full of Indians. There was 
little daylight left ; but ordering him to guide me, I ad- 
vanced with my few horses, and the dismounted platoon 
following : for a time we only picked up a straggler or 
two, and found scattered baggage. Then I met my 
mounted division ; they had swam the Illinois — loaded 
with arms and equipments — in military array ! 

" Soon after the guide pointed out a little bushy prairie, 
where, he said, a large number of Seminoles were con- 
cealed : it was nearly dark : I threw out my mounted 
division as skirmishers, and soon after signalled the 
' charge, as foragers :' when the ' rally' was sounded, 
they with difiiculty found their way back to the foot re- 
serve, and not an Indian had been flushed ! 

" Then, of course, we marched back to the river bank ; 
and lay down in our cloaks, supperless. But this is all 
introduction ; I have tired you before the day is begun ?" 

Friend. — No, it is not very late ; I was rather amused 
at your account of those spoiled Seminoles. 

Your bivouac was marvellously like this present one ! 
But go on ; and — if you do not stop at a dream or two — 
you will doubtless soon come to the cream of the story. 

" Amigo mio, my dreams are— not what they were ! — 
Well, the night passed quietly enough, though I was dis- 



IN THE ARMY. o."^3 

tuvbed by the coming in of women and cbildren ; and 
right early I got ovei* my other horses and men, and — a 
breakfast. 

" I sallied forth then, ripe for adventures. I ' scoured,' 
as was right, the three miles of open forest — we have to 
borrow this word from the scullery, while the French say, 
euphoniously, eclairer — then emerged upon prairies, and 
soon reached a lofty hill-top. 

" ! how beautiful and fresh was all before me ! It was 
a surprise ; not a trace of man blurred the expanded view, 
where free Nature had tried her genial hand. It was the 
year's prime ; sparkling under the early sun, were mea- 
dows and murmuring streamlets ; glades, where sported 
herds of deer; grassy slopes swelling to smooth hillocks ; 
old oaks, here expanded in solitary magnificence, — there, 
disposed like garlands on the gentle hills ; and again, 
gathered in imposing groves. Strangely beautiful in the 
midst were two hill-cones, rising like a triumphal gate, 
from forest bases. Far extended hill and dale and plain, 
until lost in the blue slopes of a mountain range ; and 
about its airy outline clustered the rosy morning clouds. 

" A free and exultant feeling of power — a joyous buoy- 
ancy of spirits — a rising romance, was then fast swelling 
my heart, and sending the blood in happy currents, when I 
saw my advanced guard galloping over the plain below, 
and received by the escort of fifteen captured Indians, a 
report that their main body was in a wood which was 
pointed out ; it was at the foot and on the side of a bluff, 
which sent an arm — like that of an L — to be merged in 
the eminence on which I stood ; the wood was on the 
outer slope, and extended round the angle, out of view. 

" Ah ! then I was transformed to a General, with my 



384 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 

four admirably instructed powerful platoons for regiments, 
and my trumpet signals for field and staff! 

" I immediately sent another platoon swiftly to search 
the woods of the near slope — approaching always the ad- 
vance guard — whilst I hastened with a division round the 
hill-tops to head the Seminoles, and gain a commanding 
and central point of observation. Excitement and rapid 
motion only increased my enjoyment of the rare scenery 
of that secluded district, where every moment new com- 
binations of beauty enchanted the eye. It was thus that 
my only half warlike operations and slender means, were 
magnified to a charming effect. 

"My detachments were then lost to view — engaged in 
the forest below : passing slowly round the brink of the 
precipitous bluff, I faced the more distant and longer side, 
— and, having waited a proper time, led my men in ex- 
tended order abruptly down the descent ; how steep it 
would prove we could not see, so dense Avas the under- 
growth ; blindly we forced our way ; the horses maddened 
by tangled vine and brier, leaping uncontrollably down- 
ward. 

"The wood had been abandoned, and a fresh trail led 
into the prairie beyond ; the advance guard had taken it 
rapidly, and the support had more slowly followed. Soon 
I saw the first gallop along elevated ground, to disappear 
in the forest toward the Arkansas, and thither I directed 
the latter by trumpet signal. When I reached the wood, 
I found they had charged through a camp, whence every 
soul fled to a near swamp : while they were entangled 
there, I ascertained that these fugitives were Seminoles of 
an earlier migration ; and soon drew out my skirmishers — 
not Avithout some captures. 

" Our spirits were all up ; and returning to the prairie. 



IN THE ARMY. 88f) 

I made other combinations — managed by signals — amidst 
its Kills and groves ; we overrun many miles of country, 
and made numerous prisoners, giving but one sabre 
wound. But — 

' I will not tire 

Witli long recital of the rest.' 

" It was dark again when we returned to the Illinois." 
My Friend ! he was sound asleep. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The desert truly is here — moral and natural wastes. 
Gray stunted trees in wintry mourning — draped with 
moss. Chill winds wail, — wild beasts howl, — and my 
heart echoes, "Far — lone — forgot." 

But those rosy hours will be reflected on the gloom of 
all years. As, in a day of sombre clouds and wintry 
winds, suddenly the sun sends athwart the earth and sky 
a dazzling beam, — so comes a smile out of the dreamy 
Past, like a ray of heavenly light. 

Did I dream ? — Had I slumbered at my post ? — I did 
dream. 

And why not tell my dream ? — Life is little better ; 
nay, it is little different. We wander at most in the 
dark — stumbling on temptations, — walking on the thorns 
of passions ; in an awful but obscure light, refracted by 
the cloudy medium of philosophy. 

Sleep on, my Friend ! Though I would question you if 
I could, in this dark hour, if sympathy may ever pass the 

33 



386 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

mysterious boundary of dream-land ; — if that deathlike 
seeming calm were of careless oblivion, — or of some 
divine despair. 

Wondrous contrasts, at times, have dreams to the 
actual life around. Alone with death in bloody guise, 
and tossed on ocean in its hour of storm and darkness, 
Avith the roar of breakers in my ear, — I have fallen asleep 
and dreamed of home and happy scenes ! 

But when our bark glides smoothly to summer airs, — 
when the rough sea of trouble and of toil is for a moment 
calmed, and we lap ourselves in hopeful repose, — 
then mayhap, some demon, born of darkness, harrows our 
defenceless souls with images of hellish torture ! 

My watch is lonely and fearfully silent. There is a 
power in profound silence, especially in the reaction of 
strong excitement, that is full of awe. Silence ! — then 
every sentiment of my soul has ears, in which air-spirits 
supern.aturally utter distracting sonorous thoughts ! in 
darkness, with long unrest, it verges madness. 

! ever splendent stars, which float along the spark- 
ling blue and boundless ether, calming with its deep serene 
the poor desert watcher ; — ! immeasurably far, to whom 
no struggling ray of earthjight can ever reach, — are ye 
the abodes of happy beings, guarded from ill by flaming 
swords of seraphim ? May soul of man aspire to the 
beatitude of reunion there, with the last loved of earth ? 
! spirit ministers, are ye hovering near, radiant with 
pity divine, on guardian errands, to touch with hope the 
sinking hearts of myriad men ? And can no mortal eye 
behold thy subtilty supernal ? 

Are these wild mountains impassable barriers, that 
must prison all sympathy from eartldy communion? 

In vain, in vain ! Dull tyrant space wears its stoniest 



IN THE ARMY. 387 

frown ; — there Is no whisper of life or motion in the air ; — 
the elements but echo a human sigh ; and thus, 

" I live and tlie unheard 

With a most voiceless thought." 

July 7th. — But now, " the morn is up again," and we 
have marched many miles fasting, and have been attracted 
over the turbid river by the sight of grass, and have 
stopped and breakfasted under some cotton-Avoods ; and 
in their shade my pipe and pencil are struggling for ex- 
clusive attention ; — but pipe has it ! — for here comes my 
sympathetic companion of the night, looking as discon- 
tented as if he had not been luxuriously talked to sleep. 

"What's the matter?" 

Friend. — 0, confound the bivouac ! the dew or frost 
has got into my joints. 

" Delicate, indeed I" 

Friend. — I believe this the very Valley of Acheron ! 
in fact I had bad dreams, — of midnight incantations, — 
infernal revels. 

" Pshaw ! it was a calm and beautiful night ; and never 
shone the stars through purer air, into the dark mountain 
vale. Listen to that sweet bird ! it is piping now of 
some dream of love." 

Friend. — Nay, tliere^ we have agreed to disagree. 

" Thou pitiable exempt from love's misery, thou be- 
lievest in beauty?" 

Friend. — Yes, thou unintelligible lover of antithesis, 
not to say plagiarism. 

"Is anything so beautiful as unbounded faith?" 

Friend. — Listen ! that's "to horse." 

" Answer me then !" 

Friend. — Pshaw ! — Of course it's beautiful ; or rather, 
sublime. 



388 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

" It is the very attribute of human love !" 

July 8th. — After remounting yesterday, we threaded 
the labyrinth before us by aid of the river, and old paths 
of the buffalo. One would say there had been war there, 
among what our fathers called the elements. Earth, 
when nearly defeated by water, as a last effort detached 
at a defile, a little mountain — of red and warlike rock — 
to throw itself in the " heady current of the fight ;" the 
shock must have been great ; but River soon recovering, 
then very coolly had recourse to the manoeuvre of turn- 
ing the enemy; and by the ground he had thus so 
weakened. 

As we wound our difficult way — leading for the most 
part our horses — through this grand outlet to the con- 
fused mountain valleys behind, some grizzly bears were 
seen climbing the rocks of the mountain-side, and stop- 
ping frequently to give us a savage gaze : — and that was 
all we could well do in return. 

At last we emerged on a great barren prairie slope, 
where the mountains, — to keep up the figure — rallied from 
their confusion and retreated in regular masses toward 
the east. 

Some of the elements, however, made us pay for this 
invasion of their battle ground : the Colonel and quite a 
number of others had been seized with excruciating pains 
in back, limbs, head, and the bones generally, accom- 
panied by fever ; and a party was left to prepare a litter 
for one man who was totally helpless. 

A few miles brought us to the old trail at the regular 
ford ; our route from Independence Rock was a little 
shorter than the road. 

We remain to-day in camp : fortunately, perhaps, there 
is little or no medicine, — nor a physician. Nature, with 



IN THE ARMY. 3^9 

only rest for a nurse, will do well ; she will not be thwarted 
by pretenders, whose only sure means of relief is the 
strange faith which they inspire!* 

This afternoon Mr. Walker, whom we met at Indepen- 
dence Rock, and who is now on his way to California, 
visited our camp : he has picked up a small party at Fort 
Laramie ; and wild-looking creatures they are — white and 
red. This man has- abandoned civilization, — married a 
squaw or squaws, and prefers to pass his life wandering in 
these deserts ; carrying on, perhaps, an almost nominal 
business of hunting, trapping, and trading — but quite suffi- 
cient to the wants of a chief of savages. He is a man of 
much natural ability, and apparently of prowess and 
ready resource. 

The party left with the sick man arrived at sundown; 
he was brought in a litter made of two poles suspended 
over saddles at the sides of two horses^ one placed before 
the other : it is almost incredible that a man could be thus 
carried, however painfully, over those rocks ; in fact, the 
men had frequently to take the place of the horses. 

July 9th. — To-day, — the sick having been much bene- 
fited by rest, — we found a shallow ford and crossed the 
river. We suffered much from heat, which the white sand 
greatly increased. Some large emigrant companies were 
met : one had six or seven hundred cattle ; they left the 
road insupportably dusty. We abandoned it — preferring to 
encounter the sage bushes. At Deer Creek we found 
our pleasant old camp ground converted into a very cattle- 
pen ; and so, after our long march, had to wind a weary 
way, a mile or two up the creek, seeking more virgin 
ground. 

* This (Hsease \vas proliably ilie doigve; and as an apposite commen- 
tiuy on ili(! te>:i, I have heard a [ihysiciaii of high standing say, that he 
did not know what woulil cure it, — he had tried everything! 



390 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

In crossing the Platte this morning, the grizzly bear- 
cub came on the scene in his final act. 

It will be remembered by the patient and attentive 
future reader of this dry and methodical narrative, that 
its first appearance on any stage, was in " high" tragedy 
— that the first act embraced an unusual amount of san- 
guinary incident — that an innocent brother (or sister) 
being ruthlessly slain, and the baffled lady-mother left 
(unceremoniously) full of towering and demonstrative 
rage, — the imprisoned hero himself sank overwhelmed, — 
or in a well-acted counterfeit of death (and was borne off, 
remember, on a "real" horse). That in the next act 
(and three acts shall do for the tragedy of my bear, — 
originally they had but one, — but that was at the sacri- 
fice of a goat), he came to life in a manner that might 
very well have been criticised as an overdone piece of 
stage-effect, — but that in fact, the spectators were much 
moved, and gave full credit to the dangerous passion of 
his howl. 

To-day, then, — for I scorn anachronism — was per- 
formed the final act. The stage (wagon) was on " real 
water." Enraged at his wrongs, his losses, and his gall- 
ing chain, the "robustious beast" acted in a ridiculous 
and unftf-arable manner ; ay, " tore his passion to tatters, 
to very rags," — splinters; the stage (wagon) could not 
hold him : and finally, in despair, he " imitated humanity 
so abominably," as to throw himself headlong, and so 
drown — or hang himself: (the author cannot decide which 
— even after a post-mortem examination ; — and so leaves 
the decision of this important point to the commentators.) 

My tragedy is all true, — and if not quite serious, has, 
as is proper, its moral ; — but rather, as I have alluded to 
the primitive tragedy, let that "future reader" here 



IN THE ARMY. 391 

imagine the entry of Chorus, and their song to Freedom ! 
That dumb beasts prefer death to slavery ! Liberty lost, 
they can die without the excitement of the world's ap- 
plause, or hopes of a grateful posterity ! (It is not 
possible, I think, that the cub could have known that I 
would immortalize him.) 

July 10th. — We took our old trail in preference to the 
road : the weather excessively hot. At a short noon 
halt, we saw a mile off, five Indians wading the river : 
they shook a blanket — the sign of friendship ; as it was 
not immediately returned, they ran off; they felt guilty, 
perhaps, of levying black mail upon the emigrants. 'Tis 
strange they are so moderate. In this country all parties 
who feel weak, become unusually circumspect on discover- 
ing the vicinity of others : — man being an animal of 
prey, if without strength for attack or defence, the neces- 
sity for concealment is felt. 

After coming nineteen miles, we turned into a great 
horseshoe bend of the river ; where, fortunately, we have 
good grass, and also some fine large shade-trees. 

On the sandy shore we find here numerous petrifac- 
tions of the thick bark of trees, and also some fine corne- 
lians. 

We have had all the formalities of a thunder-shower, 
but with a mere sprinkle ; and now, after the gale, under 
a tree, with dark clouds before the sun, it is hot : ten or 
twelve days ago, water froze in our tents ! 

July 11th. — Last night we were three miles from a 
Sioux camp of seventy-three lodges : a half-breed came 
to us ; he stated they were going to the mountains for 
lodge-poles. 

We found also, near our camp, petrified logs and 



392 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

stumps of trees, which of course are near their original 
position. 

The heat, of which I complained, was followed by great 
gusts and showers ; but this morning the sun rose gor- 
geously, and it was soon as warm as ever. We crossed 
the river a mile below, and thus avoided the iron bluff, 
over which we were forced to march the 19th of June. 

The river, when we went up, was nearly clear ; now, 
although lower, it is muddy. 

We had a parting glimpse of the Red Butes this morn- 
ing ; and the blue peak of Laramie rose grandly to view. 
Since visiting the Rocky Mountains, it seems more lofty 
and important than before ; we are not so high ; and then, 
our expectations were fancy-wrought ; it does not com- 
pare, however, with the snow peaks. 

We killed a buffalo this afternoon ; and although 
scarcely a half-dozen have been seen from the column of 
march, since we struck the Platte, we have nearly sub- 
sisted on game ; but one beef has been slaughtered since 
our departure from Fort Laramie. We had to cross the 
river to find grass for a camp : the sickness still prevails : 
it must be attributed to frequent wading for fuel, the hot 
suns, and the cold nights : the men were generally al- 
lowed to leave their cloaks at Laramie. 

Camp near Fort Laramie, July 13th. — We slept at 
Horseshoe Creek last night. To-day we made our 
dreaded march of above thirty miles (without grass). We 
found Captain E. seven miles up the Laramie River. 
From the bluff, or table-land above his camp, we saw that 
it was nearly surrounded by fire : my first act was to set 
everybody at an eflTort to stop it ; but it did not avail. 
We must march to-morrow ; the wagons were sent late to 
the Fort for some baggage. 



IN THE ARMY. 393 

The poor soldier who lost his arm, suffered a second 
amputation : he is, however, now doing well. 

Our Arapaho squaw and the children, we find, are fat 
and flourishing : the young ones are unusually handsome 
and intelligent, and are quite petted by the soldiers. She 
will go with us south to her parent nation. 

July 14th. — The wagons are late in returning. Mean- 
while the fire progresses toward our little river bend and 
camp ; and it is raging among the ancient cotton- woods — 
some standing — some dead and leaning — many pitched 
and piled at the sport of time, the winds, and drifting 
overflow : black billows of smoke roll forth — now tossed 
overhead in threatening, cinder-scattering clouds ; now 
rising in palpable columns to the sky ; — then a fierce 
gust or a whirlwind, — as is its wont in this region of lofty 
irregular hills, — makes all roar again ; while the eager 
flames dart impatiently on, or overtop all the ruin. 

It has crossed the stream ! A company has rushed 
from the dreadful circle, tearing away their equipage in 
desperate haste ; all preparations are hurried on ; wagons 
scarce loaded, go lumbering forth : some saddle — some 
mount in haste : — and now the flame has reached the dry 
grass of the central camp. The trumpets blare, and we 
gallop forth to leap the girdling flame, and pass the black- 
ened but still fiery space beyond. 

I look back in admiration : — but now, over the moving 
mass of horsemen, artillery, and baggage, I see the 
flaming wreck involve some noble old trees, which, cheery 
in their solitude, had so long made their smiling presence 
felt amid the gray wilderness around : but greedy flames 
do their work, whilst the lurid smoke hangs like a pall 
over their high green heads. 



30-1 SCENES AND ADVENTUKES 

Quoth Fitzpatrick : " Another such expedition, and 
there will be no wood left in the country." 

Six miles are passed : we have come up the Laramie, 
over high hill and valley ; we are in a fresh green 
meadow ; the bright stream seems to pause in welcome ; 
— the horses graze earnestly at their luxuriant repast : 
quietly goes on preparation for our long march southward ; 
the winds cease ; the sun goes down with brilliancy amid 
the clouds, — which now too, have found repose. The 
clear river mirrors all ; the green banks — the varied camp 
— the bright sky. 

What, on the troublous earth, compares with the sum- 
mer sunset ! 

It is the welcome signal to the weary world to cease 
from toil, and seek the happiness of rest and refreshment: 
as if in honor of the occasion, the heavens are illumined 
with a grandeur and beauty, to which the greatest mon- 
arch's most glaring fete is a poor mockery. 

Slowly the gloAving honors fade ; the gorgeous red 
yields to more modest beauty ; — now, growing fancy sees 
airy structures, in which the presence of angel messen- 
gers, resting, has shed a beauty not of earth ; the hues 
are more delicate and lovely and heavenly to the last ! — 
they calmly ascend, while reluctant Night draws his cur- 
tain of gray. 

What heart so earthy, but is calmed and softened to 
meditation ! So perfect loveliness, slowly ascending to 
the parent skies, seems to draw with it our souls heaven- 
ward. 

Slowly, solemnly, surely, come the shades and dark- 
ness of night ! Night ! that type of death ! — but death, 
as thus, mercifully preceded by the beautiful promise of 
a happiness beyond. 



IN THE ARMY. 395 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



July 16th. — Yesterday, marching early, we soon left 
the beautiful Laramie River, and turned more to the 
south. We next struck the dry bed of the " Chugwater," 
— a small tributary which is graced by a few trees : four- 
teen miles over lowland prairie, brought us to a higher 
point of it, where there was a little water ; after a rest 
we turned — with the stream — eastward, and encamped 
ten miles above ; — but there was little grass. 

To-day, we still ascended the Chugwater; the immense 
table-lands, or steppes of the piedmont, abut on its narrow 
valley ; the vertical section exhibiting a sandstone con- 
glomerate resting on clay. After marching about seven 
miles we saw Chian lodges before us on a level meadow 
of the stream. While the horses grazed, the officers 
walked over : — it was a neat-looking, merry little encamp- 
ment ; all seemed lively and happy ; and their hunters 
were then approaching with horse-loads of meat. We 
were struck with their numerous wolf-dogs, which were 
very large, and looked formidable ; but they are not so ; 
but rather the faithful drudges which civilized man finds 
in graminivorous animals. 

Their masters, and mistresses too, though living like 
gladiators chiefly upon flesh, seemed remarkably mild and 
amiable, as Avell as good-looking. We found a bevy of 
red ladies sitting around a white, well-dressed buffalo- 
robe, extended on a frame ; they had shells containing 
different dyes, with which they were ornamenting it, in 
many quaint or regular figures : either from native 
modesty, or possessing the boasted easy self-possession of 



^"500 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

civilized refinement, they did not interrupt their em- 
broidery at our approcach, or exhibit any of that curiosity 
or excitement which we might flatter ourselves our sud- 
den and warlike visit had inspired. 

We Avere introduced into the lodge of the interpreter, a 
young white man ; it was neat, and lately pitched on 
fresh grass ; but I must describe a Chian lodge : — a dozen 
or more slim, white pine or cedar poles, above twenty feet 
long, are set up, crossed and secured near their upper ex- 
tremities ; fitted around and pinned to the ground, is 
a weather-proof envelop, constructed of about twenty 
bufl^alo-cow robes, dressed without the hair. More than 
twenty of us sat comfortably within this lofty pavilion ; 
its mistress, who appeared to have no rival — was a re- 
markably pleasant, comely woman, and well-dressed, as 
were many others. 

How enviable is the Chian ! Such is his simple, clean, 
comfortable house ; so cheap, so movable ! When his 
summer carpet — of green velvet — wears out, how easy to 
move to another ; to select some still pleasanter spring or 
valley, and enjoy the change of scene and air; free of 
the curses and the cares entailed by civilization. 

After refreshments, we found that a large semicircle of 
robes had been disposed on the green without, and shaded 
by awnings of skins, stretched on tripod frames. 

We met in council : the Colonel addressed them much 
to the same effect as he had the Sioux, and then dis- 
tributed liberal presents : this largess was garrulously 
acknowledged by the patriarch of the band, who, with 
the shadow of the authority which had descended to a 
grandson, endeavored to impress the Colonel's advice. 

What heart could be so artificially moulded as not to 
be deeply interested in this happy, secluded community ! 



IN THE ARMY. SOT 

They were a family ! a patriarclial family numbering two 
hundred ; all descended — save those joined to them by 
marriage — from this old chief, for whom Nature, in her 
pleasant mountain valleys and forests, had gently tempered 
ninety-seven winters : they were truly children of Nature ; 
and her bounteous and beautiful gifts — even in this 
sterner clime — her balmy breezes, her crystal streams, 
her gorgeous morning and evening skies, her gently suc- 
ceeding seasons, her voices of praise or of warning 
thunders, and mountain storms, had sunk into their 
hearts as the only and sufficient revelations of a bene- 
ficent Great Spirit. 

This grandson — the quiet moving spirit — was a remark- 
ably handsome, mild, gentlemanly man ; the interpreter 
said he was " one of the best Indians in the world ;" chil- 
dren were very numerous ; like the Arabs, they indulge 
in a plurality of wives. They wear their hair long, and 
are partial to our caps of fur : happy for them, if they 
remain far distant from whites, and follow no less innocent 
fashions than that of a head-dress ! 

But whilst engaged in the formalities of the council and 
distribution of presents, we were startled by shouts and 
laughter so vociferous and continued as to excite great 
curiosity, and induce some of us to retire to satisfy it : a 
merry and comical confusion reigned without ; very in- 
fectious, but difficult to understand : it seems that while 
the young squaws were so gently engaged at their painting, 
a certain bachelor captain, whose countenance at home is 
considered quite mild and engaging, but whose wont is now 
to give of it but an uncertain view through a vast bunch of 
reddish hair, had the curiosity to take a closer view — he is 
near-sighted — of the colored design ; — possibly he was art- 
lessly examining a natural model ; — a matter of highly- 

34 



398 SCENKS AND ADVENTURES 

civilized precedent and practicability : — be this as it may, 
the belle sauvage of intent and downcast eyes, suddenly 
raising them, was startled by this hairy apparition hang- 
ing over her shoulder ; so much so as to indulge in a shrill 
succession of those shrieks so successfully practised by 
unfortunate heroines of the boards, and natural, of course, 
to very young or pretty ladies : attributing it to his un- 
couth looks, for, according to his experience, no imagin- 
able offence had been given, the captain's confusion was 
natural and complete ; and so too was the astonishment 
of many, when this lady-like screaming was repeated 
by one and another, — all the young girls toward whom 
the hapless and blushing captain directed his appealing 
regards. They ran, shouted, hid, laughed; his own 
puzzled and innocent laughter was the most ridiculous ; 
for an explanation soon began to be whispered about, 
which did not much abate the merriment. The captain 
wore spectacles ; and we learned that these girls, lament- 
ably ignorant of optics — as of science generally — were 
full believers in a little theory of their own, upon the 
subject of the mysterious glasses ; and it was no less than 
that they enabled the fortunate spectator to penetrate 
opaque bodies ; and consequently — although unusually 
well and completely dressed — they supposed that, to his 
eyes, their modest garments were no protection ! 

Two hours and a half had flown by, when the shrill 
trumpets called us away. We mounted and turned our 
backs to our new friends and their pleasant valley, per- 
haps forever. 

We were soon on the high steppe again ; but clouds 
and smoke obscured our view ; the prairie was on fire in 
our front ; in three hours we came to a small stream ; 
there was no grass. Now, grass, if green, is a very 



IN THE ARMY. 399 

pleasing thing to most people ; but many simple souls 
might consider us hard to please, if we complain of its want ; 
but if " all flesh is grass," so grass is flesh, to us ; and 
flesh, which is muscle, is more intelligibly appreciable. We 
have but three wants, — so remote is civilization, which 
counts them by the thousand, — water, grass, and fuel, 
and wonderfully little and various in kind of the last ; 
and we find the Earth a " s^^^^-mother," for she seldom 
grants us more than two of them, and when in an ill- 
humor, denies us all three. 

After an hour's delay, and consultation between the 
guiding and deciding powers — how anxious is power, well 
possessed ! — we marched on. In four or five miles over 
burned and toward burning prairies, we came to another 
little stream, and in a thunderstorm ; and here, per force, 
we sleep on uneven sand-bars and gravel-beds (better than 
the rocks each side) ; but our faithful steeds are mocked 
with a scant supper, but a very civilized show of green 
bushes bearing gooseberries, — as if for dessert. How 
like to some feasts ! — at which I have fasted ! 

July 17. — The morning was very cold ; but as usual 
our promise of rain was broken, and ended in appear- 
ances. 

We came many miles over a burned district ; one 
would say such hills as these would boast, if they could, 
of producing grass enough to burn. We passed two bold 
branches of Horse Creek : a gentleman told me he saw 
bees hiving their honey in holes in a clay bank ; they are 
rarely seen so far away from plantations, or from trees. 
After grazing an hour, we mounted and pushed out into 
the trackless plains : the day became very hot ; and we 
began anxiously to look for water. We ascended many 
long smooth slopes, to which the descent was less, and 



400 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

steep, until we reached the topmost ridge of all, — tne 
highlands between the two Plattes, — then gently down 
again, with abrupt ascents ; — as if two sets of long 
sweeping waves had met. After marching ceaselessly 
eighteen or twenty miles, we became uneasy, as well as 
exceedingly thirsty ; the guide, too, lost confidence and 
changed his direction to the east ; which made us more 
thirsty still ; — we were looking out for Pole Creek : " The 
next hill, and we shall see it !" — the next and the next, in- 
terminably, until some almost despaired. We came at last 
to a level plain, which was very unpromising ; but soon 
after, we saw hill knobs, and from this I presaged the 
creek ; — and was not mistaken. We passed several dry 
branches ; the sight of them would give strength and 
spur to the poor suffering horses. 

In all such passages in my life I have been reminded 
of Sterne's pious and happy expression, " God tempers 
the wind to the shorn lamb ;" always there is some re- 
deeming circumstance : thus here, the ground was hard 
and smooth ; also it became cloudy, and the freshening 
breeze was a great relief; it rained a few drops, and we 
almost prayed for more. At last, after thirty-four miles, 
we espied a green flat, which alone greatly revived horses 
and men. When, at last, we reached the creek, there 
was no water to be seen ! Some went up a mile. With 
a large tin cup, I dug in the damp sand and gravel two 
feet down, and then was rewarded. Three hundred yards 
below, soon after was discovered a very fine spring. 

Meanwhile night came on ; and four hunters and pack- 
men, who left the camp before us this morning, came 
not ; an elk or two and a solitary badger were the only 
habitants we had seen in the half million of acres over 



IN THE ARMY. 401 

which our eyes have ached this day. Now, at 10 o'clock, 
they are setting off several rockets. 

July 18th. — The hunters did not come in the night. 
Pretty early we saw a small party coming down the 
creek ; but they proved to be Arapahoes, from a camp of 
sixty lodges, ten miles above ; they had seen the rockets. 
These are countrymen of our poor squaw and the two 
children ; — they were three men and a woman ; and sin- 
gular enough, one of them was a young man named Fri- 
day, whom Mr. Fitzpatrick, our guide, had discovered 
when a mere child, lost and almost dead in a wilderness : 
he saved him and brought him up : the woman was quite 
comely, and in her fat cheeks the blood showed itself in 
a blush. The elder of the party embraced Fitzpatrick, 
and expressed gratitude to him and the whites for their 
protection and hospitable care of the woman and her 
children, and alluded too, to Friday and the singular 
coincidence ; they received their countrywoman affec- 
tionately. But they were strangers ; overwhelmed with 
misfortune, she had found good friends, with whom she 
now trembled to part. She wept and went with them. 

Two discharges were made from the howitzers for the 
benefit of the hunters, and then we marched. We soon 
ascended a level plain, unbroken for twelve miles ; we 
were in view of the Black Hills, far to the right, and, 
about ten miles to the left, of the prairie mountain, Scott's 
Bluff. The plain was gravelly, scantily covered Avith 
short, crisp, buffalo grass, much like curled gray horse- 
hair ; the south wind came over it as from the mouth of 
an oven : only three buffalo gave an interest to the dull 
scene, and one antelope, which seemed intent on death ; 
it came running into our midst and was riddled with balls. 

Content to-day with sixteen miles progress, we have 



402 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

encamped on Crow Creek, which is very like the one we 
left this morning : its name was given from the number 
of crows which are found on it, lower down where there 
are some woods ; and that reminds me that for forty miles 
we have seen but one tree — five miles off — and not a 
bush or shrub ; our sole fuel is hois de vacJie. The hunt- 
ers have arrived safely ; they say they struck Pole Creek 
twenty-five miles higher than we did, descended it until 
nine at night, — when, unable to see our fires from a hill- 
top, they bivouacked without suppers ; they rode down it 
this morning for two hours, until they heard the cannon. 

A beef has been killed ; the first for four weeks : we 
have now only flour for twelve days, and a few cattle : — 
we are about seven hundred and fifty miles from settle- 
ments : our only other resource is the subsistence stores 
sent two years ago to Bent's Fort for Captain C.'s com- 
mand ; rumor is rife of its being used, spoiled, &c., — for 
rumor penetrates the prairies, delights in trading posts, 
where its every tongue becomes double. 

The atmosphere has been so smoky to-day that only 
a few saw, among the clouds, the white top of Long's 
Peak. It is famous among mountains. In its valley 
recesses are the springs of the Platte, the Arkansas, it is 
said of the Rio del Norte, and certainly of a main branch, 
called Grand River, of the great Colorado of California. 

July 19th. — Twenty-six miles of Crow Creek ! Flat 
and desolate, with but a few low hills of clay and gravel ; 
where we touched it, if we found a little grass, there was 
no water ; if water there was no grass. We were in view 
of snow, but the "sweet south" blistered our faces. 
Long's Peak, which from this view is double, is seen 
towering above the mountain range, but sometimes was 
hardly to be distinguished from surrounding clouds. 



IN THE ARMY. 403 

Here at camp, we have a little grass and a little water, 
hot and brackish ; it just comes to the surface of the sand, 
as if to be resolved if this crust of earth were worthy of a 
redeeming struggle ; I think the sirocco has settled it, — 
it is surrendered to the crows. Clouds too, fresh from 
the mountain summits, have made a hasty visit, as if on 
the same errand of mercy ; but after shedding a few 
drops — of tears I thought — they passed on muttering. 
The scene is not wholly bare, but its gray vacuity has a 
strange relief. There is a grave, and on its little mound 
has been piled the skeleton of a buffalo ; and near by is a 
little pyramid of twenty horses' skulls ; — how long the 
tireless wind has bleached these grim mementos — who 
can tell ? But they seem to whisper still of a tale of blood. 

But even at Crow Creek, the heavens have smiled upon 
us in beauty ! Just as the sun was sinking — apparently 
in snow — the sky was spanned by a rainbow — a double 
one — of wonderful brilliancy ; for all within was deep blue 
cloud. 

After all, I have had the fortune to see a dozen far 
more desolate tracts in our boundless territories ; and 
they begin to be estimated, but never will be sold by the 
acre. 

July 20th. — We marched again over flat, barren ground, 
and in view of the great mountain range, hid to the snow 
line or above, by the secondary but lofty Black Hills ; 
our course was still down Crow Creek for twelve miles : 
before we left it we got water by digging ; then after as- 
cending, we came in pleasant view of the South Platte ; 
but before us, apparently two or three miles, down a 
smooth gentle slope, was Cache la Poudre; but it proved 
to be seven. Very warm and dry we were, when we 
arrived at the bank of that beautiful crystal stream — as 



404 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

large as Laramie ; several elks scampered off at our ap- 
proach, abandoning some luxuriant grass, the very sight 
of which was refreshing ; but much more so was a bath 
which a number of us enjoyed, whilst the horses grazed 
with a most excusable avidity. 

Then we rode six more miles over a weary, dusty, level 
road to the Platte ; forded it, and encamped under some 
pleasant cotton-woods, with more green grass. Long's 
Peak, though above sixty miles off at the southwest, rises 
proudly above all the fine view of mountains : its outline 
as seen here makes an angle at the apex of 120 degrees. 

We have had two hunters lost since yesterday morning, 
and the howitzer was once more discharged this morning. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Yet unstained, bright and cheerful, gayly splashing 
'mong the rocks, — merry river, knowest thou, surely, where 
thou rushest in such haste ? 

Art careless now, in thy morning, of these pleasant 
green trees' shade ? 

Ah ! be happy while thou mayst, round thy mountain 
parents' feet ; smiling thou, and reflecting every hopeful 
smile of theirs! 

Yes, whilst they shelter, dance in sunshine, now thou 
mayst — 

Friend. — Hillo ! what are you about ? Writing in 
tune with the merry cotton-wood leaves ? You will have 
to "frankly confess you have invented a new style." 



IN THE ARMY. 405 

" Upon my word I was becoming as curious as your- 
self; a first unfortunate line set the jingle agoing, and I 
could not stop it ; my ' feet' got into such a measure 
that they were running off with me, — and my discretion 
(somewhat like an extraordinary leg of which I once heard 
a clown sing). Shall it stand ? — to be laughed at one of 
these days?" 

Friend. — You are wonderfully given to personification ; 
particularly of rivers. I suppose you were thinking of 
the desolate flatness, the choking sands, and the profitless 
end, the now fair and promising river comes to ? 

"Exactly — and it led to melancholy thoughts. 

" Well, these dreary steppes, where the mountain 
streams,- fresh from springs and snow, are the chief ob- 
jects of interest, must account for it ; they have at least 
the motion and music of life ; — if they are not persons, 
there are none other, and I believe they answer me about 
as well." 

Friend. — You have reversed the figure ; — decidedly. 
Shall I call it a personality ? There is only a subject or 
two on which we cannot meet, but unfortunately they are 
your especial favorites ; I have been fortunate in escaping 
them now. 

" And that is the reason you did not ridicule my literary 
pastime ! But I shall not answer for myself till the moon 
sets to-night. 

"By-the-bye, — what, my Friend, do you think the moon 
was ' invented' for ? — to assist that other invention of 
sleep ?" 

And thus we whiled the hour away. 

July 21st. — We marched south, following the river, here 
rapid and clear, — a mountain stream, running at the foot 
of the Black Hills. We were on a hard, level road, over 



406 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

prairies, and river-bottom too, of great barrenness ; the 
effect being heightened by ruins of several adobe trading 
forts : I only wondered that man could be tempted to tarry 
here, where animals come not even for security. 

We have had a true prairie day, with its incessant 
fierce south wind. As we approached our camp-ground, 
a black and threatening thunderstorm was gathering un- 
usually far down from the region of snow ; they had 
seldom reached us, — but now the first big drops, mingled 
with large hail, were falling as the wagons came trotting 
recklessly down the bluff to the low grounds which had 
been selected. With haste the well-experienced men got 
out the tents ; and just as the fourth corner-pin of mine 
was in hand, and I could slip under its shelter, down 
came the hard rain ! and it has continued for two hours : 
some of my neighbors, I suspect, know more about it. 

The Snow Mountains looked grandly to-day ; we are 
so much lower than at the South Pass, and on Sweet 
Water, that their height, comparatively, is much greater 
than of the mountains there. Long's Peak, which from 
this view is sharpened to 60°, is now almost behind us ; 
while Pike's Mountain, Avhich is more lofty, begins to rise ; 
it looks blue, with the distance of ninety miles ; it is at 
the southwest, and we pass near it. It is said that for 
above four hundred miles we shall not cross a stream ! 

This is the first good rain we have had since May. 
Some say this country has a soil, but that the difficulty 
lies in its dry climate : all effects have some cause ; it is 
certainly a barren, desolate country : we come hundreds 
of miles, and see scarcely an Indian, or an animal ; it is 
in fact a desert. 

The two hunters have come in; they have been lost and 
without food for three days ; they say they have ridden 



IN THE ARMY. 407 

to-daj above fifty miles. A fine range for elephants, 
this ! 

July 23d. — Yesterday we left the Platte and encamped 
on Cherry Creek. The hottest day we have had; and no 
bracing nights, as on the Sweet Water. Strange too to 
us, to pass in view of wintry snows and suffer thus, and 
just after a hail-storm. The country is the same — deso- 
late and devoid of life : there have not been buffalo here 
for years. Pike's Peak, as it is called, raises its lofty 
dome of granite as we advance ; it is bisected far down 
by a vertical white stripe. How distance and the familiar 
word, belittle a vast chasm of frozen, changeless snow ! 

To-day we still followed up Cherry Creek, or its dry 
sands ; but towards noon, it came running to meet us ; 
and there were the patronymic cherries, — or rather the 
bushes ; and of the sort called choke-cherries. We are 
again encamped on it ; but the highland is before us, and 
adorned, as the nearer hills, with pines ; and with grass 
too ; and the prospect is more homelike than any other, 
since we left the Little Blue, near the Missouri line. 

July 24th. — We marched early, still up Cherry Creek. 
From Mount Pike a spur of mountains runs out to the 
east in a vast table, — the highland between two great 
rivers, — the Arkansas and the Platte. This stream has 
its spring where the table-land mountain breaks off into 
promontories, and these are crowned with lofty pines and 
rare and welcome oaks. 

Following it up, at last we were rewarded by discover- 
ing the long valley's highest secret chamber, its court of 
fountains ; these gave an emerald verdure to its gentle 
grassy slopes ; and shrubs and rose-bushes were in blossom, 
majestic firs and oaks gave arches which excluded the 
sun's heat and glare ; all was fresh and pure ; man had 



408 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

made no mark, and doves alone were there. Look back ! 
— nought but blue or snow-white mountains meets the 
eye. 

The sudden transition from long, dreary marches to 
this matchless spot, gave it a heightened, inexpressible 
charm. I threw myself on the soft sod — apart — and felt 
like a worshipper of Solitude in a beautiful temple dedi- 
cated by Nature. Silence, as of ages, was only broken 
by natural music, — a wild but matchless harmony of 
three voices : of the winds, gently breathing through 
^olian pine leaves — of the babbling and murmuring 
fountains — of the cooing doves. 

All were melancholy, and one was of love. 

How dissonant here the clamor of rude troopers and 
the clang of arms ! 

Civilization ever advances sword in hand, with poisons, 
pestilence, and crime in her train. 

Alas, how short and few are these pleasant pauses in 
life's journey ! Then, oh Memory ! guard thy scant 
treasures well ! 

We were marching over the flat highlands ; the novelty 
of forest trees diversifying the prairie was still delightful : 
— there was no water ; for fifteen miles we marched 
on ; but a cool breeze fanned our faces, and a pleasant 
screen of clouds befriended us. We came then to the 
heads of another lovely valley, which could not be 
greener. The camp is in a pleasant dale ; very near it 
rises a great hill — a knob of the mountain — with grass, 
and granite rocks, and fir trees : the many springs send 
their crystal tribute to a little lake, as if to linger here 
before they wander forth together to the dull plains, and 
to be lost in the turbid Platte. 

July 25th. — Last night I was moody and sleepless, and 



IN THE ARMY. 409 

SO witnessed several sublime and beautiful changes of 
weather and sky, accompanied by a startling incident. 

The labors of the day, the duties of the evening, all 
over, sleep had followed, as the laborer's luxury : lights 
had gone out ; the little fires had sunk and paled ; sounds 
gradually died away ; the tents gleamed strangely in the 
moonlit solitude. I would have taken refuge from my 
thoughts in sleep ; but sleep often flies us when most 
invoked. 

At last I wandered forth alone, and ascended the 
mount. 

The moon, not yet full, was high in heaven ; the deep 
shadows of the pines slept on the grassy mountain top ; 
the little lake below brightly mirrored the glittering sky ; 
now and then came deep breaths of air, — like sighs from 
the gentle heart of Night. Long I reclined motionless 
upon a rock : there was no sight or sound of past, or pre- 
sent life ; but I had no thought of loneliness, — it was a 
luxurious oblivion ! I seemed to grow a portion of the 
pure and beautiful elements around. 

At last, — so strangely then and there ! — there came 
stealing on the night, a strain of soft music ! 

I sighed, as this heaven-bestowed key to all hearts, and 
to all moods, aroused within me some of that life, which 
silence and solitude so profound had absorbed. It was 
like an exquisite dream, closely following the last weary 
and oblivious sense. 

But soon the music changed to a joyous air ; then 
Memory awoke to make it an echo of the Past, and ever 
vigilant Hope stole forth trembling, like the moonbeam 
on the little lake. 

0, seductive combination of the graces, the brilliancy, 
the joys of loveliest life ! — that givest grace to loveliness, 

35 



410 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

poetry to motion, and gala gloss to all surroundings — that 
charmest by music, that expandest all hearts, and exalt- 
est all souls to the power of love — the thronged, the gay, 
the glittering ball ! 

0, soft viol, and tinkling guitar — last echo of old ro- 
mance ! — to this solitude you can bring bright memories ! 

Methinks I see a "high hall," whose lights might 
shame the day ; the many white-robed fair, — the far- 
reaching couples, floating in that fairy dance, — revolving, 
like the moon around the sun, in circling circles. 

The rosy summer dawn is lovely, and sweetly the birds 
sing in its praise ; — but lo ! the sun appears, and gives a 
magic brilliancy to all, — scattering diamonds and pearls 
upon the dewy green ; — so, always to such pleasant scene, 
the smile of one, must give the light of enchantment ! 

If it be not there, — or if it be clouded, no winter twi- 
light more dismal then, than that glaring ball-room 
mockery. 

My unconscious voice had brought the cynic to my 
side, who had wandered forth like myself: but just then, 
too, from the cold north, and from a dark cloud, which 
had glided there unseen — like a brooding secret evil — 
came the hoarse breath of a storm, and its far-echoing 
solemn voice. 

My Friend smiled. It was a smile that seemed a part 
of the faint flash which revealed the now gloomy night. 

"You are answered," he said. 

"Why ever look behind, and cherish the unhappy, 
profitless past? Why hug delusion and disappointment 
to the soul ?" 

"Ask the pale plant," I replied, "why it stretches 
forth in darkness, toward the ray of light." 

We watched the storm amid the mountains, somewhile 



IN THE ARMY. 411 

in silence ; but I had not escaped so ; my Friend said 
solemnly : " The present only is ours ; but we should turn 
from sad experience to the future, there to lay hopeful 
plans, with good resolves." 

" Labor and care and depravity are our curse : but 
blessings too are the faculties by Avhich we struggle above 
the Sensual ; — perceptions of the Beautiful, and the Sub- 
lime, — all the elements of the Ideal realm, where, Fancy- 
borne, we draw the materials of highest art ; they elevate 
poor grovelling man, and 

' Make his heart a spirit ' 

Thus to poetry, and much-abused romance, we owe the 
cherished oblivion of our animal natures. 

" Thus Music, Avhose source and power are in these 
faculties, is the divine art. If art it be, since the first 
words spoken by woman upon earth, — as often now, — 
were rapturous music I" 

But the storm which had followed the higher range, 
now came sweeping on, sporting as with fierce joy amid 
the mountain tops ; and here, and there, and far, the 
spectral peaks seemed rising to the capricious gleams, 
and many-voiced Echo swelled the glorious diapason. 
Sport and music of the Gods ! — ! it was joy unspeak- 
able, to stand thus on the very throne of the storm, whilst 
its fierce wings hurtled the mountains around, — and the 
wanton thunderbolts made the elements to tremble ! 

But suddenly, with a direful crash amid the Titanic 
rocks, there came a wondrous glare, that revealed through 
a vista of the black array of clouds. Mount Pike, splen- 
dent, sublime, serene, amid the chaotic war ! — like a Fata 
3Iorgana, turned to stone. I was speechless. I heard 
my companion uttering. 



412 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

"Oh night, 

And storm, and darkness, yc are wondrous strong, 
Yet lovely in your strength." 

Awed and chilled, we descended the mountain in 
silence. 



CHAPTER XX. 

July 25th. — For about three miles we passed an open 
pine forest on the top of the highlands between the Platte 
and Arkansas ; and seven miles from camp we drank at a 
small stream flowing to the latter. When we emerged 
from the woods, a very extensive view opened to the east 
and south : no more forest was to be seen ; the prairies 
had a shade of decided green, which was a pleasing 
novelty ; but this great slope has a southern exposure, 
and is high enough to share the mountain showers. Be 
this as it may, it is the most promising country we have 
seen since we first came to the Platte near its mouth. 

We have actually passed Pike's Peak to-day, — Avithin 
ten or fifteen miles. 

My Friend and I rode together, and had much wonder 
and admiration to express upon our night adventure, — our 
happy fortune to witness so much beauty and sublimity. 
I remembered then, his omission of "the light of a dark 
eye in woman," in the only quotation of poetry I had 
ever heard him make. He said it was introduced with 
beautiful expression, but all the poet's audacity, to illus- 
trate an Alpine storm. " Does it please you?" I love 
storms, I said, but not those that gather in woman's eyes ; 
they are fearful, and so must have strength, if not loveli- 



IN THE ARMY. 413 

ncss ; if, by dark, he mean black, their light is seldom 
pleasing to me ; their brilliancy seems to extinguish ex- 
pressions, — or, their color to veil it. 

Friend. — Well, that's a novel theory ; what do you 
like? 

" Blue ! — in man or woman. But there is a rare kind 
— the loveliest and most expressive of all — which are 
changeable, from gray to blue, as intellect or love for the 
time prevails — the beaming mirrors of a lovely soul !" 

Friend. — Let me once more astonish you, and quote 
from the authorities you acknowledge. 

" Oh Love ! no habitant of earth thou art ! 
An unseen seraph, we believe in thee; 
A faith, whose martyrs are the broken heart." 

" That, skeptic, convinces me now, that you, at least, 
have loved !" 

Friend. — Let us talk no more of woman. Angel she 
is thought, but oft a devil known — a pendulum that trem- 
bles betwixt heaven and hell. 

Just then, I thought there ran a shudder through the 
air ! the sun was veiled, and there came a fierce shower 
of hail, and rain, and snow. We were under Mount Pike, 
and within the sphere of its elementary laboratory. 

We have been all day on the verges of these perennial 
showers, which the cold cloud-attracting and condensing 
mountain-tops send forth from their bases, as ceaseless 
streams through the far plains. Thus Nature, as with a 
high-pressure engine, carries on its vast scheme ; the sur- 
plus steam from the hot valleys giving motion to its 
rivers. The lofty mountain, which, far as it was, seemed 
almost above us, was enveloped in snow-clouds the most 
of the day. 

35* 



414 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Our camp is on the stream of the " Fontain qui 
Bouille." We should have much liked to visit the spring, 
which was but fifteen miles from our course ; but " March ! 
march!" and thirty-one miles we have marched to-day. 
The stream is fringed with groves ; and the horses fare 
well upon luxuriant rushes and blue grass. 

July 26th. — We followed the Fontain qui Bouille seven- 
teen miles, and then left it for a more direct course, over 
the hills to the Arkansas. We found it a weary sixteen 
miles, without water ; broken and barren, and not at all 
green, was all the prospect there ; cactus and Spanish 
bayonet had claimed it as their own ; but there was ani- 
mal life, — creatures which must be assimilated to these 
desolation-loving vegetables ; there were very extensive 
villages of those queer "prairie-dogs," and they seemed 
to have formed an unusual association, and with little 
nearer approach to the most accepted standards of taste, 
than their well-known one with rattlesnakes and burrow- 
ing owls : it was now ants ; and there were thousands of 
their hills, — some two feet in height. 

But the most singular things Avere hundreds of smooth 
sugar-loaf mounds, varying in height from five to twenty 
feet ; but these stand near the foot of the hills, on the 
alluvial plain. We had no time for any satisfactory ex- 
amination. 

The morning was distressingly warm ; and as usual, 
the thunderclouds gathered about the mountains, — Pike's 
Peak behind us, and a range to our right beyond the 
Arkansas ; and, as usual, they sent forth, as if for battle, 
their cloudy squadrons, thundering over the plains be- 
tween. 0, beautiful were they, in constant motion, with 
ever varying combination, as if in glorious sport ! But at 
times they seemed to unite, and threaten us with fire and 



IN THE ARMY. 415 

flood ; then, from the dark array would issue thunder- 
bolts and fiery gleams ; — but our silent ranks moved 
steadily on ; — and suddenly the sun would brightly inter- 
pose ; the baffled clouds would break off muttering, with 
pelting discharges upon all around. 

Across the river, — but we cannot see it for trees and 
bushes, — is Mexico, or Texas perhaps ; and sixty miles 
within the disputed ground are the Spanish Peaks, which 
we have seen. It seems strange that Spain should have 
left memorials so far inland ; — so far north. How rapidly 
did she degenerate ! So must think at least all believers 
in militia, and call hers cowardly ; for they ran away 
from every battle which they should have fought, — and 
in defence of their native land ; except for harassing the 
enemy's escort, " the Duke" accounted them as so many 
sheep. I attribute all that to want of capable ofiicers and 
discipline. 

And what news are we to hear when we reach " the 
States ?" (when we complete this march, which in some 
respects, may be unparalled in history.) When it began, 
there was every prospect of war with Mexico, and even 
with England. But we consider a war with Mexico so in- 
evitable, that our distant march at this time has been 
criticised in camp ; and we have some idea of meeting 
orders, to keep our course south to Santa Fe. 

Sixty-four miles in two days ! Wonderful in the last 
quarter of 2400 miles, on poor grass ; dragoons — with 
carbine, sabre, pistols, cartridges, two blankets, a great 
coat, picket rope, and iron pin, &c. But it must break 
down anything but a cast iron horse to march thus inces- 
santly for a hundred days ! 

There is no game. We have not seen a herd of buffalo 
for sixteen days, and shall not probably for five days 



41G SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

to come : and yet this has been considered the buffalo 
country. And the Indian country too ! — and where are 
they ? The very road we have followed answers. It 
connects a chain of trading posts, where whiskey and 
gunpowder are bartered for robes and tongues ; it de- 
stroys soul and body, — man and beast together. Verily 
the golden calf of civilization has been raised far in the 
wilderness ! 

July 27th, — "We have had the pleasure of marching to- 
day twenty-two miles over a baked white clay surface, 
accompanied under the broiling sun by a breeze which 
very gently enveloped us, — as in a secondary atmosphere 
— with dust, which gave to all a semblance, not strictly 
defined, whether of millers or hodmen. This charming 
promenade was adorned solely by a dry and repulsive 
sort of bush, which served to remind us that any comfort- 
able vegetation could by no possibility there exist. 

We crossed early a nameless stream, — supposed to be 
generally dry — which was absolutely a torrent of mud, 
twenty paces wide, and near three feet deep ; it was 
almost dangerous to ford. The river for some miles lower 
was almost as muddy. Here, it is unusually clear : the 
current is very great, frequently over stones and gravel : 
its immediate valley is generally several miles wide : the 
bluffs with little grass have frequently abrupt geometrical 
shapes. 

Again we have thunderstorms around us, but escape 
with a sprinkle. It is said to be forty miles to Bent's 
Fort. Our provisions are nearly gone. 

July 28th. — After coming an hour or two this morning 
due east, as yesterday — and over the same white clay, 
facing a blistering sun, — suddenly a charming north wind 
came to breathe a new life into us, and drive off our dusty 



IN THE ARMY. 417 

infliction. The valley is here very wide, the river clear 
and very swift ; it is about three hundred feet Avide, and 
deeper than it is far below. It is, too, continuously 
adorned by groves on the banks and islands. The soil 
is still very poor, — of sand and gravel ; but we crossed 
one fine meadow of six or seven hundred acres. The 
river once forced us for several miles to pass over the 
hills ; but nothing like mountains were visible on either 
side. 

A singular animal has been caught here ; in fact, it 
made no eifort to escape. A naturalist, who joined us at 
Fort Laramie, pronounces it a "gopher rat;" but it 
seems unknown to the dwellers of this wilderness. 

Having marched twenty-one miles, we encamped rather 
early, at half-past two o'clock. Now, — at six, — a dark 
thunderstorm is bursting over us. 

July 29th. — A pleasant day, with a cool breeze, which 
made all comfortable. As we passed on this morning, we 
saw, a half mile to our right near the river bank, a small 
party with a wagon moving westward ; — whereupon it was 
visited, some barrels of alcohol destroyed — men and wa- 
gon seized and brought with us. 

Over a smooth, gravelly, second bank prairie, we 
caught sight, at several miles distance, of the national 
flag, floating amid picturesque foliage and river scenery, 
over a low dark wall, which had a very military semblance. 
Very gradually and tediously we approached ; and then 
were we more surprised, at the fine appearance and 
strength of the trading fort. An extensive square, with 
high adobe walls, and two large towers at opposite angles ; 
and all properly loopholed. Our near approach was sa- 
luted by three discharges from a swivel gun ; the walls 
being well "manned." The Colonel and suite were most 



418 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

hospitably greeted at the sally-port, by Messrs. St. Vrain 
and C. Bent. The regiment marched on, and encamped 
at the first grassy meadow, a mile or two lower down. A 
number of ofiicers partook of a good dinner at the fort. 

Amongst a few luxuries which we here attain, are 
several newspapers, of later date by some weeks than we 
have seen. The commissary reports the provisions in 
perfect preservation — especially the hard bread ; 'tis a 
pity there is no flour. We arrived with rations for a 
single day. 

This afternoon a party of a dozen Mexicans passed our 
camp, — being questioned and allowed to proceed; they 
have a trading venture for the Chians. The majority 
of the hands at the fort are Mexicans ; and the Spanish 
the prevailing language ; but with English, French, and 
Indian additions and combinations, there is no slight con- 
fusion of tongues. 

We have been visited, too, by a kind of double animal, 
not exactly a centaur, but a form of Mexican humanity, 
appearing to grow from the caudal extremity of a donkey ; 
furnishing the concern however with an extra pair of legs. 
The head wore a Avhite cotton cap, and one arm flourished 
a stick or wand, which seemed a cause of dread and per- 
plexity to the foreparts, which were without appendage 
or ornament. Between was a bag of wheat of Taos. 

There has been quite a lively exchange of broken-down 
horses for ponies and mules ; and very much "unsight, 
unseen ;" a horse Avas a horse, if he could stand up ; a 
pony was only expected to go. Two young antelopes 
were presented to an officer, who then purchased a mule 
and cart for their conveyance. 

Here we lose sight of Pike Mountain, after journey- 
ing rapidly in view for nine days. It is said to be visible 



IN THE ARMY. 411) 

from some river bluflf, eighty or ninety miles further on. 
We have found it about four hundred miles from Fort 
Laramie, and the route we have followed is the best na- 
tural road we have yet seen. There is nothing to prevent 
a light carriage from passing it, twelve miles to th6 hour ; 
and this so near the mountains, and in view of perpetual 
snow. 

August 3d, 1845. — Our march was continued from 
Bent's Fort, July 30th : — following the river eastward 
with our wonted pertinacity of progression ; next day we 
passed by what is called the Big Timbers. It is a nar- 
row forest on islands and low bottoms, extending fifteen 
or twenty miles : it is known and important as a winter- 
ing place, and refuge from storms. Here, beside fuel, 
those who can have no better, find shelter from the wintry 
winds which sweep with a furious swing over these vast 
plains, which themselves shrink beneath the dismal pro- 
tection of an unbroken sheet of snow. As my once 
anticipated wintry refuge, it possessed for me an unusual 
interest. 

That day too we encountered a large party of New 
Mexican Indians, the Apaches, — with some Kiawas in 
company. They were large, handsome men, of a frank 
and pleasant bearing. The faces of some of them resem- 
bled rather the Caucasian than the Indian caste. Their 
hair was long, occasionally clubbed behind, in our delect- 
able female fashion. All were mounted, and their equip- 
age had the profuse silver and steel adornments, of which 
many a rich Mexican would gladly have confessed to more 
than the style. They embrace in the graceful and plea- 
sant Spanish and Mexican manner ; and they fail not to 
reveal eloquently the true Indian trait of " mucho ambre." 



420 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

In what tongue, unknown, did ever Indian conceal his re- 
markable hunger ? 

They had with them a Mexican youth, who had probably 
been captured many years before : a very slender, singu- 
lar beiilg — with yellowish hair, pendent from the temples 
like two long queues. He spoke Spanish but poorly, — 
as did our interpreter — but we thought we made out two 
points, viz. : that he liked the Indians, and that the Mexi- 
cans were afraid of them. 

These fellows gave us to understand that they had been 
on an expedition against the Pawnees ; and this indicated 
some contempt — possibly ignorance — of the small matter 
of boundaries ; but no doubt, it was in retaliation ; for 
the hand of the Pawnees is raised against all men. 

This day we first came in sight of the drifting white 
sand-hills, w^hich border the southern side of the river for 
one or two hundred miles ; of fantastic changing shapes, 
often dazzling white, and supporting a few stunted cedars 
and plum bushes : their air of desolation does not at all 
prevent them from pleasing the eye, whilst a certain wild- 
ness in their appearance excites the imagination. In- 
deed, I know them as the refuge and ambush of beasts of 
prey, and of wilder and fiercer men. 

A few hundred paces below this camp were the frame- 
work remains of an Indian "medicine lodge," looking 
like a dismantled circus. We found in it four buifalo 
skulls, with the eye-holes stopped with dry grass ; tied 
overhead were a bundle of rods, a boAV, pipe and stem, 
and some wild pumpkins. " Medicine man" is the literal 
meaning of the Indian designation of the individual who 
always unites the professions of physician and priest ; he 
deals in vegetable medicines, in relics, charms, and incan- 
tations. On solemn occasions, many superstitious cere- 



IN THE ARMY. 421 

monies are performed, and mysteries which at least 
remind us of those of ancient Greece and Rome. Some- 
times superstition becomes so extravagant that many hor- 
rors of physical suffering are eagerly submitted to. I 
will mention a single one, repeatedly witnessed by a 
friend : the fanatic, having a sufficient band of skin 
divided from the back, and a rope tied to it, drags thereby 
a buffalo skull, until, from natural decay, the rope tears 
loose ! 

The braves, the aspirants to renown, before undertaking 
some martial exploit, each imposes on himself the most 
extraordinary fasts and vigils ; sometimes on a rock or 
lofty hill, in unchanged postu;:e — like the brahmin — for 
days together chanting songs or hymns ; their natures 
thus etherealized by fasting, — their imaginations unnatu- 
rally excited, — witnessing in their solitudes, solemn or 
sublime natural phenomena, — these poor savages then 
reach a spiritual exaltation or ecstasy, in which the Great 
Spirit favors them, they assert, with direct communica- 
tions, — of approval, of promise, or of warning. 

A few miles lower is Chouteau's Island, — an old cross- 
ing of the Santa Fe road ; and known also as the scene 
of several Indian engagements, first with traders, after- 
Avard with our troops ; (and on this day sixteen years ago.) 



CHAPTER XXL 

August 4th.— We marched at half-past 6 o'clock. 
That means that two hours earlier a trumpet had called 
us all from sleep to sudden labors ; first, arms in hand, 
— there is an inspection ; — then a " stable call," which 

36 



422 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

the poor horses know well, although they have perhaps 
forgotten what a stable is, or have despaired ever to see 
one again ; possibly they retain a vague memory of the 
grain, which, on a time, Avas served to them at that signal. 
Now, they whinny a morning greeting to their masters, 
and seem grateful for a little rubbing of their stiffened 
limbs, and removal to fresh grass. Meanwhile, the cook 
of each mess (of six or seven men) has been preparing 
hot coffee ; and offers it with the unleavened cakes which 
were baked over night against a spade or board, and some 
boiled or fried buffalo meat for breakfast : as a rarity, he 
gives them a morsel of fried pork. Then, — at the signal 
for the new guard to saddle, — baggage is prepared and 
packed in the wagons ; the ceremonies of guard mounting 
over, the assembled trumpeters sound "boots and sad- 
dles," when, — in a quarter of an hour — all bridle, saddle, 
and arm, and the last preparations are completed ; then, 
"to horse," and the regiment is almost instantly in 
" order of battle ;" and at the " advance !" each squadron 
in turn ahead, we all ride forth to "battle" with space, 
with fatigue, perhaps with great heats and dust — with 
saddening wastes, — with thirsts and fears of finding no 
haven of refreshment and rest. 

In the heat of the day, if there be water, we wait 
wearily, generally unshaded, about three- fourths of an 
hour, for horses to rest and take a luncheon of grass, and 
for the baggage to come up. After eight or ten hours, 
happily finding water and grass, at the climax of fatigue, 
with the energy of necessity, we commence the settlement 
of a canvas village in the wilderness. The horses are 
first to be attended to ; but generally with a skirmishing 
accompaniment, — a slight scramble for that scarce article, 
fuel ; this is sometimes amusing — sometimes leads to un- 



IN THE ARMY. 423 

pleasant excitement. The baggage is then unpacked — if 
fortunately it have arrived — and fires are lit, perhaps in 
a rain, — water is brought — generally as far as it happens 
to be from the best grazing : issue of provisions is made, 
— 'and this may depend upon still absent hunters, or the 
slaughter of a beef; and the cattle, although trained for 
several months with unfailing exercise, are not always 
"up to time;" cooking then goes on. We eat with an 
appetite ; but of the coarsest and simplest food. The 
guard then commences the labors of the night ; but the 
many enjoy with rest — the single luxury of a pipe ! (Its 
apology, is it not written ?) The few also, a fine sunset 
or moonlight, and scenery, which may be tame, may be 
desolate, — but is generally new, — sometimes beautiful, or 
grand. 

Well ! — I have long been a wanderer, and — I rather 
like it. 

Yes ! it has its pleasures. 

It is easy to turn aside to perfect solitude, when 

" the twilight soft comes stealing on, 

With its one star, — the star of Memory, 
Pale, — pale, — but very beautifnl !" 

A gentle air rustles the grass or leaves ; the running 
waters too, give music : and then, they seem the voices of 
gentle spirits, which may, in this hour of calm and love- 
liness, awake to Eden memories. As sometimes suddenly, 
the innocent prattle of children falls as music on the 
mother's ear, — banishing happily, vexing care, — so, 
nature now seems soothed, and harmony reigns. 

And as the mother, first musing in loving mood, then 
timidly questions her happiness, — so too, to the elo- 
quence of this sweet hour, my heart first beats a pleased 



424 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

response; and then, in reverie, my soul wanders over 
space and time, until all sense is wrapt in a thought, — a 
memory. 

Then ever I awake with a convulsive sigh, which comes 
unbidden — like an echo. 'Tis the answer to the summbns 

of the REAL. 

The mortal sound has banished the happy whispering 
spirits ; I am recalled mayhap to find the tone, the color- 
ing, the vitality of the scene all gone : 'tis a dismal prairie 
now. It is dark ; the winds are hoarse. 

And so we wear on — like all the world. But often in 
the broad field of labor and care, which in prospect, was 
all barren, — we find that heaven has provided for us little 
flowery valleys of rest, where our souls are strengthened 
and our hearts refreshed. 

Here Friend came in. 

" I saw you wandering ofi", at sundown ; have you been 
attempting a photograph of the calm scene?" 

" Ah ! no bantering to-night ; there is a dreamy art of 
more pretension still ; — that would paint the heart ; — 
that would fix the wandering thought ; — that would delve 
for discoveries in the deep mine of man's nature ! 

" But I have been writing, my Friend, something for 
your especial approval ; I have been setting forth grim 
realities, — and most philosophically. I did strike at last, 
but most naturally and truly, a little vein of — " 

Friend. — Poetry, perhaps ? by the merest accident in 
the world. 

"Nature is poetry! For what are sunsets often gor- 
geously beautiful, or delicately lovely, beyond all repre- 
sentation ? For what, the endless variety, the exquisite 
combination of resplendent colors, of tints and hues of 
beauty, in flowers and birds ? Not for utility, my Friend ; 



IN THE ARMY. 425 

but to soften our hearts — to refine and elevate our thoughts 
Poetry is Worship !" 

Friend. — Well, let me hear your specimen of " grim 
reality." That you could only realize the charm of sim- 
plicity ! For poetry I generally go to Job, David, or 
Isaiah. 

I read to him my day's experiences. He listened im- 
patiently ; and at last broke out — 

" You are incorrigible ! Do you call that abstraction 
the real?'' 

" Surely it has a mournfully same, and daily reality !" 

Friend. — And how easily by a mere turn of expres- 
sion, you could have given it the interest of a simple 
narrative ! 

" Well, I'm too indolent ; for, if commenced, I might 
imagine myself bound to keep it up ; and I scribble by 
no rule, and with no object but pastime ; and, to compare 
in some future day the old with the new tone of mind." 

Friend. — And a rather singular acquaintance will the 
old gentleman make ! Pray, why then did you trouble 
yourself with this dry abstract of our daily doings ? 

" Thank-ye for having solved — in your complimentary 
way — a question of my own ! I will tell you : I am con- 
vinced that written descriptions, not only from careless- 
ness or design, but from inherent imperfection, invariably 
paint very feebly ; and from consciousness of this, are 
dashed with discolored exaggerations ; they deceive more 
than they enlighten the imaginations of those who are 
unable to apply the conventions and the tests of some ex- 
perience ; you perceive, then, that I was experimenting?" 

Friend. — I should say, and without dropping the figure, 
that the difiiculty lay in the impossibility of all coloring ; 
it tires a reader too much, to attempt more than outlines : 

36* 



426 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

and all action — even military — is so essentially irregular, 
and depends so much upon individuality, as not to be 
described. 

I find you guilty of " carelessness" certainly ; and, by- 
the-by, you have not a word of our detour over the beau- 
tiful plain of Chouteau's Island ! Then, indeed, your 
everlasting " Memories" seemed strong enough ; and what 
was better, almost tangibly real ; I could almost see the 
five hundred painted and yelling Camanches charging at 
full speed to surprise your camp. And then an inex- 
perienced youth of twenty years — 
" Nonsense ! — a mere instinct — " 
Friend. — Led by a military and saving instinct then, 
— went forth with thirty men to meet them half way — 

"Well, well, — I wrote what pleased myself; and, — 
another object I have, which I did not mention : with 
scarce a book to read, if one did not write, I fancy the 
beef and pork and beans would in time form a coating 
round his brain ; — turn it all perhaps to thick and solid 
skull ! How is it with you, my Friend ? Does yours re- 
tain a slight softness ?" 

Friend. — Don't you think a slight quarrel would help 
your case ? There is excitement in it at least. 

" Never say that ! I remember once I was told the 
same, — threatened, I thought, in jest ; but there soon fol- 
lowed a storm of pain to me!'' 

Friend. — And did you suspect that what was death to 
you, was fun for another, — as in the fable ? 
"No; I could not." 

Friend. — But the healing of the wound was an equal 
happiness. 

" Inexpressible ! — but — " 

Friend. — Left a slight scar, perhaps. — Those are beau- 



IN THE ARMY. 427 

tiful flowers. I would not have believed that the prairie 
could now furnish such a bunch. 

" Their modest beauty is scarcely noticed when seen ; 
but if you are interested enough to assemble them thus, 
you are rewarded by a charming surprise. And how plea- 
sant a study is each ! I have an untiring love for flowers. 
How perfect and refined a delicacy they possess ! Ex- 
amine these blossoms ; how pure and delicate a white ! 
See the difierent stages of their mysterious vitality : some 
of the corollas are like fine pearls, and are set in an eme- 
rald green ; some are just expanding and reveal the beau- 
tiful life within ; others with full-blown petals, which, like 
fairy shells, still gracefully guard and adorn the stamens 
now crowned with golden pollen ; and their fragrance ! 
what other sense is capable of so refined an enjoyment as 
it yields !" 

Friend. — With what strange complacency does the 
mass of even the " educated," ignore the charming mys- 
teries of botany ! They may be surprised into admiration 
of a fine flower ; but it is a mere sensation ; 

— " the smallest part 
Exceeds the narrow visions of their minds." 

"And they lose half the beauty, which, such is their 
perfection, they reveal only to minute examination. 

" Did you ever reflect how enthusiastic an admiration 
for them, is expressed in the language, ' Solomon in all 
his glory was not arrayed like one of these !' " 

Friend. — The lily ! — the queen of flowers ! And yet, 
all the world admire them. Are they not generally per- 
sonified? — credited with a language ? 

"The language of flowers! — The language of admira- 
tion and of love, rather. Charming symbols indeed ! — 
most eloquent off"erings !" 



428 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

Friend. — What myriads there are here — 

'• born to blush unseen, 
And waste their fragrance on the desert air." 

It is strange. What earthly purpose do they serve ? 

" What know we of the attributes of their wondrous 
and miraculous life ? But how admirably do they fulfil 
their divine appointments in the unfathomable scheme of 
Nature ! More beautiful, more fruitful, — even less ephe- 
meral, than myriads of animal existences ! Truly they 
may have a language ; — and are at least an eloquent in- 
cense to the Creator — by them, 'the hills are joyful to- 
gether before the Lord, and all green things upon the 
earth praise Him.' " 

August 13. — We have come on regularly, above two hun- 
dred miles, since the 4th, and with no very extraordinary 
incident ; we have had some grand thunderstorms at night, 
and yesterday — the first time for months — rode several 
hours in rain. We have passed many buffalo ; but none 
for several days, and had despaired of seeing more. 
Several merchant trains for Santa Fe have been met, and, 
which was something new, one of them was accompanied 
by a few emigrants — women and children. Are the An- 
glo-Saxons breaking out in a new place ? 

Two marches back, our eyes were first gladdened by 
the view of green prairies ; the regular Missouri grasses ; 
beautiful, indeed, — but not so nutritious as some dryer 
sorts farther West. 

After marching about five miles this morning through 
the savannas of Walnut Creek, where we had en- 
camped, and of the Arkansas, which we are about to 
leave, we saw to our surprise a large gang — perhaps a 
thousand — buffalo on the hills to our left. 



IN THE ARMY. 429 

Soon about a dozen of us might have been seen very 
deliberately diverging from the road, whilst the column 
moved on ; what would stop it ! After riding a mile or 
two, we gained a slight hollow, quite near, and to the lee- 
ward, of course, of the unsuspicious herd ; then we al- 
lowed two still-hunters to creep on for deliberate shots, 
while we inspected our appointments, and made our plans ; 
— never had I been so deliberate ! and it was bad luck to 
me as will be seen. 

Now, mount and away ! The long hill on which the 
chase began, ranged directly in the course of the march, 
and there we expected to drive the game ; the wind was 
from that quarter ; and they almost always run against 
it ; the attack of course was towards the desired direc- 
tion ; and carbine men, who fire best to the left, dashed 
for their right flank, and those with pistols for their left. 
All would not do : whether to return to their more usual 
haunts, — or for their advantage in running down hill 
(arising from their great strength of shoulder), they 
turned right on us, charged and broke our centre, and 
went rushing down the long slope whence we came, — 
about twenty abreast ; — the dense column reaching about 
a quarter of a mile, and like a great black serpent ! And 
thus I found myself on their right flank, where I could 
not so well use my pistols : down we all went recklessly 
hugging their flanks ; and I penetrated their column, and 
gained the other side : for this manoeuvre they assist, by 
diverging from behind you — by which at first you are en- 
closed ; they were so thick, that one or two falling, it was 
only by a powerful efl"ort — very discomposing to his rider 
— that my horse was able to avoid tumbling over them. 
There was now a rattling fire, and a slight whistling of 
balls; and the fun "grew fast and furious." I shot a 



480 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 

fat COW while in the jam, and I only know I did not see 
her fall, and immediately lost sight of her ; then I bore 
down upon another very large one, and whatever the 
cause, my down-hill shot was a bad one, too high ; then 
reloading, I got in pursuit — with another officer — of a 
detachment of about thirty, determined this time to pow- 
der-burn my game. My noble horse soon bringing me 
alongside, I perceived on lowering my pistol to the aim, 
that the cap was gone ! I replaced it — losing ground : 
again I was close alongside, when, with indescribable dis- 
appointment, the same thing occurred ! Just then my 
companion, by hard spurring, got near enough behind the 
buffalo to cripple one by his fire. In my over-care, I 
had on the hill unnecessarily replenished my cap-pouch, 
from a friend's, with caps which were slightly too large. 
And thus little advantage did I take of having the best 
horse in the field, which was still infinitely eager for the 
chase. 

Thus, unexpectedly, we got about eight hundred pounds 
of the very best meat we have had. But what a weary ride 
this hot afternoon, following the regiment about twenty 
miles ! 

Aug. 24th. — Twenty-two hundred miles in ninety-nine 
days ! 

We left the Kansas River this morning, Avith a blunder- 
ing Shawnee guide, who called it eighteen miles to 
Fort Leavenworth. Passing first deep dales and very 
broken hills, well clothed with forest, we then emerged 
upon prairies. We found Stranger River eleven miles (it 
had been called six) — still we marched on through rank 
grass, and weed, and bush, hopefully ; as home was the 
busy thought that engrossed us. After eighteen miles 
we were forced to halt at a branch for rest for the animals : 



IN THE ARMY. 431 

the heat had become excessive ; but just before stopping, 
■we had seen, we thought, afar off, Pilot Knob, — a land- 
mark, four miles below the post. 

At one o'clock, we moved on again ; — forcing our way 
wearily, through the rank grass of a wet season ; rising 
and descending continually, hill after hill of rolling 
prairie ; like a stately ship which has weathered with 
narrow escape a mighty tempest, and strained every joint 
laboring heavily on the swell, which seems endlessly to 
defer the eager hopes of a haven almost in sight. 

But now the Knob, familiar to many a chase, — on 
horses which the curb and strong arm with effort checked, 
— rose in full view ; the eye Avas pleased ; but the known 
distance realized the certainty of a killing march to attain 
the goal. When we struck the military road, ten miles 
from home, our poor steeds were a moment animated by 
pleasant memories, and tossed their heads, and champed 
the bit. 

But, good heaven, what clouds of dust then rose from 
our feet, enveloped us, and followed us like a destiny ! 
And how scorching was the sun in this artificial calm. 
We dismounted, and some horses then staggered as they 
were led : we walked an hour, the perspiration rain- 
ing from my brow, and my brain throbbing ; we walked 
right through streams, dashing the water to the face with 
our hands. Still on : the endless last mile of disappoint- 
ment and fatigue : — the sun went down ; — but now the 
houses and stables, white and beautiful amid the green 
trees, animated us to press on. At dusk we entered the 
portal, and staggering to the usual parade, renewed the 
line, which ninety-nine days before we formed in the 
pride of prancing horses : how many a gap was now ! but 
the half stood there ! 



432 SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY. 

And there was, perforce, a silent but eager suspense ; 
then came words of commendation from the Colonel. I 
can only remember some sounds breaking monotonously 
a dead silence — like the vague impressions of a dream. 
And then the ranks dissolved, — the spell was broken, and 
— we were home ! 



THE END. 



1 r.M,, 



